Ever since I can remember I have been working on cars. I always check youtube for How-to videos. Now that I am a bit more experienced I figured I could start lending the DIY help to others. Ill try to record and share step by step tutorials as well as any tips and tricks I find along the way. Other than the regular work I should have some projects underway that we can track .
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If you pull the filter housing and tube it's alot easier. Can change mine in about 25 mins lol. Save alot of time.
Best Dart starter video on the web. I was dreading that top business. Started doing it and said f this I need to find another video.
Thanks for the positive comment ! Yeah I refused to mess with it from the top. Fully doable from bottom on ramps or jacked up . I ofcourse have a lift but that’s not required :)
I have exactly the same problem, I have changed the spark plug multiplier and the problem remains the same. I tried injector cleaner. And valve cleaner again the problem remains.. now I'm thinking of changing the camshaft adjustment control valve.. can you think of what else i can do wrong.
Just did my alternator today on my 2015. You should just take the air box off. Makes it easier.
Great job!!! Thanks 😊
Thanks, I just needed to stow the SOB!
I'm having this same issue with no crank no start and just put in a new battery but have the issue issue. Only thing is it starts up no problem with a portable jump starter. So now I'm not sure what the issue is.
The additional power from the jump may be able to get enough amps through the bad connection to start it. I’d still rule out a bad ground it’s simple and cheap/free before anything else .
@JustFixinGarage You were right my grounds just needed to be cleaned, thanks
@@user-mj6es3jj8o glad to hear it . Hopefully no more issues !
You really missed the good part how to remove it from the body to outside😢
After you move that body mount bracket that you see me loosen in video it drops right down . Pretty easy on this model .
Start watching at 8:15
Bro this video saved me so much time! Thank you so much
Also sometimes if your valve cover gasket is leaking. Oil can get all over the starter. Take out connector clean with a little contact cleaner.
Thank you very much. I never would have thought these were on the back hubs. I have one of the front that I need replaced.
For a front wheel drive model yeah the rear will have this instead of a cv axle with the tone ring. I have only seen this happen once so far on these personally but it certainly was a simple fix with the right tools :)
Thank you for this video! You saved my ass a lot of time and money. I will say that if you disconnect the starter wire from the battery and undo those 3 clips you can pull the wire down enough to make it easier. Dodge can go to hell for where they put that damn thing though.
The whole problem from start to finish was NOT the car, but it was and IS the owner! The owner IS His own worse problem and enemy! He sounds totally incapable of doing ANY mechanical work! Those cars are so mechanically basic, and so easy too! So, why would you put a message on the screen say it's been one issue after another with the car as your explaining the story? No, you had the worst kind of customer that F***ed that car all up and he couldn't tell you what he done wrong! And you couldn't believe he was that dumb, and you had to go through the whole process of finding out what and how he f***ed it all up. From now on, YOU have to watch out for those kind of owners/ customers that will bring YOU their neverending nightmares that they created in the first place! This is a problem with these younger generations. The education system has dumbed down things so bad, and basic mechanics has not been taught and been taken for granted. A lot of broken families and not enough father influence. This is more common today with people and it plays out in so many different ways. People that have no sense can ruin a car real fast. And oh, btw, someone made too much of a big of a deal about leanburn systems and told bad advice, on how he should get that off of there and go to a basic ignition module. This is more ignorance! And talk about jumping to conclusions! Not all leanburn systems are the same. The ones that were problematic were the early 2 plug/ 2 pickup systems of 4 barrel motors in the 70s. All leanburn systems that have 1 plug/ 1 pickup are very basic and reliable and last and last! I and my friend have these cars. 2 1981s and one 83 one 85 have original leanburns and they keep going and do not give a hint of trouble.
my seats fold up and down just fine.....the problem is that the lobster claw mechanism wont lock onto those c clamps on the ground, tried spraying wd-40 onto to see if it would make the claws latch and it didnt work. Does anyone know if replacing these cables would fix that issue?
See how your seat is locked into place here.....I cant do that with my seat.
We're having a dickens of a time with my '85 Fifth Ave. It also cranks but has a terrible time starting. Once warmed up, it runs well and restarts quickly, but as soon as it cools off, the games begin again. It does run a little rough, too. We've replaced a LOT: Carb, distributor, cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, fuel pump, you name it. SO frustrating. I had a wonderful '88 but foolishly sold it a few years ago, so I just bought this one, and have gotten so frustrated.
You need to find someone older that has real experience with the older carburetor system. Just because someone has some education or is book smart does not mean they can figure out the older systems. I am so used to these older systems, they seem like a piece of cake. BTW, I have a 85 5th and it runs awesome! It doesn't hurt to advance the distributor timing in those cars, that's probably what it needs.
This is a GREAT video !! Thanks so much,it really helped me.
this time the problems were obvious. Sometimes not. Good video
On the fan shroud belt routing
Yeah lol after filming that was obvious but in moment I blanked and forgot :)
Thanks for posting the video - my comments are only here to help others who may be searching. As others mentioned, no need to pull the fuel rail. Some jiggling and lack of care of damaging the body panel gets the alternator out in a few minutes of tugging. With the pulley facing down, I had one attachment hole on either side of the intake. After watching this video I was able to get it pulled in about 20 minutes. Other tips: - Throttle body - you can leave the wiring connected and flop it on top of the valve cover still connected. - Tensioner - Pin it with an allen wrench coming in from the frame rail side. Also - It can stay in place and you can still get the alternator out.
I had the same problem, replaced the coil pack but unfortunately it only lasted for 1year 7months. As I type this I need to replace it again 😏 where can I get a manufacturer’s one? I’m in SA
AutoZone can often order you oem but I bought mine off Amazon . The oem Lasted just over a year and had a 2 year warranty . Got a refund and bought a Duralast that’s lifetime warranty so if it goes again I’ll just swap it for free and get part same day. I think part quality is a major problem since covid even oem is spotty
Thank you! My 5 yo threw up all over the second row seat 😭. And my cable is just stuck on both seats sides though. I'll just have to save for the garage to fix it. But your video was great!
Thankyou!!!! THIS IS LEGITIMATE ! I used this yesterday, if you dont have a spare wire, use the black(negatives)ends of a jumper cables to do the ground test*. My car started right up with a spark! I took the bottom cover off and sandpapered the top copper connection and managed to spray it down with WD40 parts cleaner. Took the bottom one off and cleaned it up, and the car started! Drove it to work today up to highway speeds, seems alright 😊
Thanks for the comment ! Idk why I didn’t use jumper cables when I was doing this. I have used that method in the past and ever since . But for whatever reason when filming the video I had a brain fart lol . Anyway I’m glad this helped you out . Doesn’t hurt to add another ground from the battery to the top alternator bolt . I picked up one at AutoZone for like 15-20 bucks I think .
@@JustFixinGarage credit yo my dad for sure man, he found your video and even gave me the jumper idea. This video is spot on though, brilliant ! You helped alot of people I'm sure
boy.....when you look at all the work to get to the module....you have to ask yourself, where is that dang engineer that dreamed this up!?
So I did this and the car started right up. And I've started it up several more times with no problem does that still mean it's the ground?
If cleaning the grounds made a dart that is not starting then after cleaning it does that’s a very likely case that the grounds were the fault . Or just terrible timing for something else to decide to stop acting up . Grounds are super common on these which is why this is my my watched video. It wouldn’t hurt to add an additional ground as well just to ensure it never becomes a future issue :)
Great video! Thanks for showing all the steps. Very thorough. It made fixing the seat a breeze. Thank you very much.
i had a little oil around one of my plugs, an inner one, so i tightened that middle bolt under the coil and so far so good. of course it can only tighten just so much with the metal insert in the plastic.
If the leak persists next is a fresh valve cover gasket :)
@@JustFixinGarage yup.
As the oil pump drive to cam gear relationship wasn't messed up on the original, you shouldn't have had to mess with the oil pump. If the upper part hasn't broken off the shaft, you don't even need to be at top dead center. You just need it to be in a known indexable location. I chose to align the tall part of the shaft parallel with the block. With how course the gear is, a tooth off in either direction is very noticeable.
thanks will go with gm all the way
Does it matter the position of the splines on anything?
It’s keyed in a way on the pitman splines it should only line up one way in the correct orientation . It’s not possible to be a tooth or two off.
Will this fix headlights to, do ya think?
The ground can affect any circuit so this would be included . Generally though if headlights have issue the starter would too since it pulls more amps
Great job. Thanks
thanks for showing how it was worn out - explaining where that wear is.
fascinating - stick it in the freezer...
A local shop replaced ours way back - just wondering what it was about! thanks
If this is leaking would that cause gas fumes when the tank is full - ? thanks
could fumes coming in from outside trigger an "evap leak" code? I used pure gum turpentine as solvent for undercoating - wax - and as it was evaporating I got that code. I cleared it and it never came back.
i found this really helpful thankkk youuu soooo muchhhh for making this video it helped me and i bet i helped a lot of other people, its people like you that make working on cars so easy because your here to help us out when we are struggling
Glad it was helpful and sometimes I’m learning as I go but if others can learn from what I have tried and mistakes I made that’s a win ! Thanks for the comment :)
I have a 2016 GT and it suddenly just stopped starting and I’ll have to push the button a couple times then it’ll start right up, I suspected a bad ground and I think this just confirmed it
It is for sure a very common issue on these vehicles. They didn't do very strong factory grounds and they easily become corroded and lose connection. hopefully this is your problem as well.
Hola llegue asta aquí porque hoy a mi carro le paso lo mismo.
I just wanted to let you know that your video was SUPER helpful while working on my 2013 Chrysler van seats! I managed to fix both my 2nd row seats by replacing both cables in each seat in just under 3 hours. I've never replaced any parts like this but I will say the 2nd seat went faster than the 1st. I will definitely recommend this video to anyone that has the same problem. Thank you!
Hello Nicole! Thank you for the time you took to leave a comment that it helped. I am happy to hear you handled this by yourself with the help of the video and your own personal skills. As with any car job I can tell you the second one is always WAY faster than the first :) Hopefully you don't have to do it again for a while or ever!
my mechanic at the Napa shop he changed my compressor and he charged me $250 for the compressor brand new and charge me labor $150 and guaranteed a year warranty on the part and 24 months on labor I thought that $400 was expensive to seeing y'all's prices mine was a 2007 Honda Odyssey ex
Depends on what brand and where you buy for prices . This was a friend of mines van and I don’t charge over retail for parts. It’s been too long for me to remember exactly what the parts cost . I will say I have seen parts prices have a crazy fluctuation in cost from alternators to rotors it’s varied a lot . I think you got a great deal. The owner of this one was getting a quote closer to 1000 for this work . At the end of the day though if 400 total is the out the door fix for ac I’d say it’s worth it for a cold ride.
@@JustFixinGarageNapa used a part called denso that's what It had on the part and the box the mechanic at Napa told me it was a OEM part whatever that means he told me that's the part that Honda originally used . last year Napa shop put a timing belt complete job and a water pump while he was there and change my belts He charged me $600 then the shop told me that they charge everybody these prices that they don't go by the book they go by how long It generally takes him to do the job you made me feel better now I feel like I have a decent mechanic I was kind of thinking he was too expensive but I don't have a lot of money is there any amounts expensive to me I'm disabled in fighting cancer stage four terminal at this point but thank you very much for your feedback
@@JeremoBrown denso is the best you can get same as the factory that lasted 10-15 years . . Sounds like you got taken good care of . Still good honest people out there . Stay strong for your battle ! Had cancer myself but stage 1 (1a) they called it but been good for 7 years now.
@@JustFixinGarage thank you very much and when we caught my cancer originally it was in stage 3 they thought it was going to cure me I stayed in the hospital 3 months had multiple blood transfusions the colostomy bag and when we came back this year and took the colostomy bag off unfortunately the cancer came back and they found it in my blood so it's terminal at this point I'm in the progress of saving up the money to pay for my funeral so my wife and kids don't being a burden it is spreading my blood and everywhere now unfortunately I've been trying to get my family together and get everything together while I still have the strength about me
What if both rear windows don't work?
Wow... Patience needed here. Sounds super frustrating. I hope it all worked out in the end. *Goes hunting for update videos on the channel*
Thanks
will the negative jumper cable work for this test
Yes . That’s a better test option
Question for you, Do I need to worry about cleaning the old ground locations you show in you other video if I do the ground wire upgrade? My Wife's car is having a weird issue where it will not start on the first and second attempt of turning the key to start. However on the 3rd try it starts up fine. No Issues. She does have a small Evap leak code (P0456,P0457) which i believe is the gas cap. However this is a seperate issue and shouldn't play into the starting mystery.
If you clean the ground well it should be good to go. I add a ground because the more grounds the better and the one I added is much thicker and will stay crud free longer. If adding the ground is easier than cleaning the old you can do that first and see
@@JustFixinGarage Thanks for the quick response. Yeah I think adding the ground would be easier than cleaning the old ones. Don't have to lift it. sucks this is the only car we own that won't go up Rhino Ramps... due to being to low.. lol
@@rockerac1 I’ve had a few low cars like that where I jacked the car up and put it on the ramps since the bumper would hit . Or use 2x10 boards in front of ramps to get it over the lip of the bumper . The lift is a huge advantage and having a garage like this was a goal of mine since I was 16 . At just shy of 30 I had it built.
Why not use your dominant hand??
you can get to everything from the bottom. Just wiggle your arm around and you can get a small wrench in there.
What was that cable that you said would be zio tied out the way towards the end if the video at 21:36 ?
That’s an extension tube on the idler arms grease fitting. Makes the grease fitting more accessible than a fitting all the way up top. You just pump it in the end of the tube.
WOW never seen that before. 👍
I have a 2014 dodge dart most times I crank my car it crank but when it want I just keep turning and key and ot will crank what’s the problem please help
Check my other video for bad ground . Could be the problem . Also make sure you aren’t low on oil or it will act similar to.
Motor oil. Check the ground wasn’t no corrosion thanks I’ll check oil
What type of oil