Don't Judge a Rotor by its cover! - 2014 Dodge Dart Front Pad and Rotor Replacement - EASY DIY
Today we replaced Pads and rotors on my sister in laws Dodge Dart. During an inspection of the car a few weeks back I had noticed the front rotors were rusting out. While you can see the outside of the Rotor looks good the inside was no longer a smooth surface. This is very common where the back of the rotor rusts out faster. In these cases its needed to replace them along with new pads.
The tools we used are as follows :
Various ratches and Torque wrenches 25FT-130FT LBS
14 MM Socket
5 MM Allan Key socket
E-20 Torx OR 12 Point 16 MM socket
Hammer
Flat Head Screw Driver
Brake Grease
Antisieze
Brake caliper compression tool (pad spreader)
Wire brush and/or files to clean brake caliper bracket
Brake Cleaner
Paper towels
There is nothing too different about the dart compared to other cars and the order of operations is as follows.
1. Lift the vehicle and place it safetly on jack stands
2. Remove the wheel
3. Remove the Rotor retaining bolt ( 5 MM Allan Key) You can use a screw driver in the rotor to keep it from spinning
4. Remove the Caliper by taking out the two 14 MM bolts. hang the rotor out of the way without putting pressure on the brake line
5. Remove the caliper bracket with either an E-20 torx socket or 12 point 16 MM Socket
6. With caliper bracket removed use a hammer as needed to smack the rotor off of the hub. Be sure the retaining bolt is removed as mentioned in previous step.
7. With rotor removed clean the hub surface with a wire brush to ensure no built up rust. Then apply Antiseize compound. I use the silver aluminum antiseize. (This step is optional but I suggest it)
8. Clean the new rotor and put it on the hub face. Then install the Allan key bolt to secure the rotor to the hub
9. Remove the old brake hardware from the caliper bracket. Clean the surface on the caliper bracket where the hardware sits. Apply brake grease to the caliper bracket and then install hardware.
10. Install the caliper bracket on the vehicle and torque the torx bolts to 129 FT LBS. (replacing the bolts is suggested in the manual however I didn't feel this was required as the bolt was not damaged or any thread issue)
11. Remove the slide pins from the caliper bracket, clean off old grease and apply new then re-install.
12. Install brake pads with the pad with the squealer installed in the rear. Ensure pads are facing the correct way with pad material facing rotor. I suggest applying a small amount of brake grease to the pad ears.
13. Check your brake fluid reservoir to ensure its not over filled as this step will push fluid up. If going to overflow I suggest putting a rag or using a baster to remove some fluid until next step is done. Compress the brake caliper until its flush with the bore. You can use a pad spread to do this. If any air pockets come out in the rubber boot use a small pick or flat head to pry the seal up to allow the air out.
14. Apply grease to the caliper piston and the ears that touch the pads.
15. Install the caliper and torque the bolts to 25 FT LBS.
16. Inspect the work and ensure no grease is on the new rotor. Clean as needed.
17. Install the wheel and torque to spec (varies but anywhere from 90-105FT LBS)
18. Repeat on opposite side.
19. Before driving the vehicle be sure to pump the brakes to extend the calipers. Recheck Brake fluid level to ensure its above the minimum line and not above the maximum. This is a must.
Пікірлер: 23
I like that "orange color" on your Dodge Dart!
You were very well prepared regarding the necessary brake tools, etc. in order to replace the Dodge Dart front pads & rotors! Did you put the pad clip holders back on?
Did you wipe off the brake cleaner before putting on the anti seize
@JustFixinGarage
27 күн бұрын
@@GreenTugBoat I just make sure it evaporates before applying. Sometimes I have to wait a minute other times I just blow on the brake cleaner till it’s done
So helpful, thank you!!🙏🏼
@JustFixinGarage
11 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful! sometimes I wonder if a simple brake change is worth filming but at the current cost of labor people need to know.
Awesome video! Thanks
Nice, which rotor and pads did you go with
@JustFixinGarage
5 ай бұрын
I stick with just parts store these were AutoZone pads and rotors . If it were more performance I would look into other stuff but with the commercial account it makes the pads and rotors pretty cheap :)
@markharper2430
5 ай бұрын
Thanks. I managed to find some brakestop. Need to do suspension also as with over 100k the stock stuff is blown out
Use a 19mm to get the lugs off. Works so much better
How about bleeding the brake lines? I have a 2014 Dart SXT with 4.2 multi-air. Currently 148,000+ miles on factory pads. Recently (today, 9-29-23) my brakes failed. I was 45 miles from home. Have acquired a new set of pads [front and rear]. The greater issue I have, is that I lost all pedal pressure. Brakes engage at the bottom of the pedal. I have NOT gotten into it yet. Researching and gathering information before I delve into the task. Any assistance it troubleshooting and getting her back on the road is tremendously appreciated.
@JustFixinGarage
10 ай бұрын
For brakes to full on fail with no warning and no leaks I’d be more concerned the master cylinder went out. Assuming you still have fluid in resevior and meat on the pads anyway.
@keystoneprepper1369
10 ай бұрын
@@JustFixinGarage initially, there was still fluid in the reservoir. I hadn't checked since returning home (dark out. Fresh look in the morning). Pads need to be replaced, regardless. Can further inspect each caliper and associated elements at that time. Once the pads are complete, fill the reservoir and see what happens. Say that all goes well with the replacement of the pads, is there any special or specific way that the brake lines should be bled?
@JustFixinGarage
10 ай бұрын
@@keystoneprepper1369 well if it goes completely dry in the master and lines of fluid some cars you need a scan tool to help bleed the abs pump. Otherwise you can bleed the car and still have a soft pedal. I think the darts all have abs . Otherwise air can get trapped in there . The standard method of doing the furthest wheel first usually does the trick. Then again now that most abs systems have a dedicated brake line to each wheel it’s less of a requirement now. Just keep bleeding till you get clear clean fluid with no air bubbles. Don’t let the master go dry. Air isn’t usually something that magically while driving goes into the system and causes you to lose brakes . Like you mentioned though if the pads are super low it will take more pedal to feel a stop . Suck out the old fluid from master with a turkey baster then top all off with new fluid so you don’t have to bleed as long and don’t let it go dry .
@keystoneprepper1369
10 ай бұрын
@@JustFixinGarage OK, changed the pads (the originals still looked pretty good in my opinion). Filled the reservoir and tried the pressure. Built up and lost pressure quickly. Fluid on the ground from under the driver's side front. Wasn't able to specify where it was coming from. There was fluid coming from the cap area while compressing pistons on the calipers. I surmised that it is most likely the master cylinder. Have acquired a replacement. Have not found any videos/instruction for exchanging them. Any tips or instruction that you could provide?
@JustFixinGarage
10 ай бұрын
@@keystoneprepper1369 it’s the same process for any other master . You’ll wanna bench bleed it , then install , then bleed all 4 wheels. I’m sure there’s a few videos on bench bleeding the master it is critical this be done or you’ll never get all the air out.
I replaced the alternator battery . On my 2014 dodge dart Gt . After I started the car it melted and burnt the 200amp fuse on the positive battery terminal I’m stuck and have no idea why this happened can you help
@JustFixinGarage
Жыл бұрын
Sounds like the wire going to the alternator or the alternator itself is having issues causing a short or overcharging the system . If that’s the case I’d suggest the wire from battery to alternator be checked for damage and if needed replace the alternator (I do have a video for that ). Other than a short to ground or overcharging/over current I can’t see any reason the fuse should blow .
@joestepp4157
Жыл бұрын
@@JustFixinGarage I replaced the alternator and the battery . It’s a 140amp alternator I guess that’s what the 2.4l comes with from factory . Never had any issues before this . Car just locked up on me no breaker stead it or anything got a jump and got it home
@JustFixinGarage
Жыл бұрын
@@joestepp4157 so what current issues are you having use problems starting ? If that fuse blew out and the wire isn’t shorted to ground it could be a bad new alternator . Unfortunately with remanufactured units and even new are hit and miss . These cars are know to have bad ground connections and need cleaning I have a video where I do a starter and a video where I do the alternator and a ground cleaning. Hopefully you can get the car under control
@joestepp4157
Жыл бұрын
@@JustFixinGarage I seen all your videos on the starter and ground and everything . I think it’s a bad new part . These 2.4l darts are noting but electrical nightmares thanks for your help
@JustFixinGarage
Жыл бұрын
@@joestepp4157 you got that right . Seems to save cost they made wires small and fragile and electronics a nightmare .