Welcome to Barnesy’s Builds! This channel is dedicated to the full restoration of my beloved 1982 Holden WB Ute. I’m just a normal bloke in Australia with a love for classic cars. I have no experience with restoring cars or an automotive background; I’m just giving it a go! So stay tuned to see the progress and pick up some handy tips along the way.
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I am not a painter but I think you have done a great job of painting your car
i love this mate, i brought my wb almost the same month you started this project all those years ago, i did a budget resto back in the day with the money i had as an apprentice now ive been a qualified auto electrician for a few years and im in a good stage were ive brought a house and have the abillity to give the old girl the resto she deserves. id love to see this thing in person one day i honestly feel like ive grown with this this ute, when shes done id happily do a road trip to see her at a show.
Sounds stout as
looks like you might have to buy a couple more printers. haha. keep up the good work.
Cheers, yes I think a couple more will help!
Any of this work in stl files and would it for in wb 84 dash?
You can find out all the info at Unicq.com.au
This reminds me of a conversation i had with a work mate who's visiting from Australia. He mentioned he had a Holden V8 WB ute back home and was thinking about putting a 355 stroker kit in it. At the time i said a LS/460le would probably be easier and cheaper and yield better results. But one thing i wasn't thinking about is the purity factor and the fact the cars are just as much emotion as function. Also being a proud Australian he wants to represent the local product. In all those respects a LS would be wrong. So now I get it.
Yes the LS is definitely a more economical option and the “bang for your buck” factor is very good but it is about the old Holden engines in these old Utes. The sound is just different in the Holden cast iron block, different firing order, combined with the nostalgia and it’s really the only way to go to honour the true origins of the Holden H series Utes. Specifically the old WB
C-h-y-n-a-!-!-!-!
I hate flat tappet cams
I put a brawler on my 253 couple weeks ago mate the best thing since sliced bread
Pretty much only way to do a first start cold 🥶 after 12 months sitting is pull out spark plugs wind it over until your oil pressure gauge starts to reach its maximum before starting the engine as starting a dry engine will burn the bearings and seals you basically wanna see all the rockers wet with oil before starting it
Yes we are starting it this weekend and plan on doing that. cheers
Go the old soft block not bad at all 450 hp
If I was going holden I’d rather go for the VT 304 roller cam engine pretty short it’s block is already for the chev crank to bolt straight up with out ant block relieving has better mains and oil pump from memory
Juice is better
Impressive
Slow that printer down and you will get way better results
Been running these printers now for around 8 months and very happy with the quality at that speed. Could got to a 0.6mm nozzle to make them stronger perhaps. Cheers
Do u do gauge holders for a hj monaro .?
HJ is the same as HZ I’m pretty sure. Same facia support for all HJ HX HZ to WB. HQ is different.
Awesome job Barnesy. How good is technology these days!! You have discovered a really great future and can now take pride in building whatever you want!! Great stuff
Thanks mate, yes it is quite amazing how fast tech is moving, looking forward to being in that space as it evolves. 👍
When are you blokes going to wake up , i stopped using Flat tappet cams 20 years ago , have a look at the bullshit you had to do and it still failed , if a customer asked me to build him a engine with a Flat tappet cam i would tell him to take it else ware .Roller Cam or forget it , you will gain better realibility, more Torque and Horsepower than any Flat Tappet cam , Rocket - Man Race Engines
Hey mate, these look like they turned out pretty well. I'd be interested in a set as mine are pretty cactus.
Thanks, yeah no worries, I will make sure when they are finished to post them up again. Cheers
Hey Barnesy, have you had any progress with these? I'd be keen on a pair if you've got it all worked out!
@@hamishjordan4339 Down a printer at the moment which has slowed things up but I hope to have the production model compete in the next 2 weeks. At this stage it will be blanks only followed by wired up versions original and led
Bloody ripper👌
Just a tip for PLA. Keep the lid and door open, it's a pain to unclog the extruder when the PLA gets too soft and wraps around the gears. But great work reverse engineering that light. People just assume that its a simple scan and you're done job. But when you explain what actually goes into it they don't want to get the work done anymore.
Thanks, yes I have learnt all about clogged hotends and extruders, but more with ABS, PLA is a breeze in comparison! Yes it is a very intricate and drawn out process to get the right fitment, patience is key.
How much of the KBS Matt did you need for the ute?
A couple of boxes from memory, I think I mention it on the video somewhere.
Hi, what was the print time roughly for the tail light bucket. I did an air filter snorkel it took 33hrs and that was pretty basic compared to this.
I got it down to 11 hours and hope to improve on that with some tricky settings on the printer.
Well done
How long did it take you to block back the orange peel? mine is very similar and frankly a little daunting to start the process haha
Took a while, it’s quite a precarious process of knowing when to pull up sanding and go to polisher
Absolute genius with the tailight housing they look fantastic
Thanks mate
Geezes you are killing it barns well done and the perfect choice on the rims good work buddy
Thanks Greg, yes very happy with the wheels, they suit the body lines
Barnesy's Builds, why not print it in PetG, yes ABS would be a good option though you would have to worry about it warping. Even in an enclosure ABS can still warp sometimes I find. Because of that I have moved away from ABS to PetG. Though with PetG you need to dry the filament as it tends to absorb moisture.
I’m open to other materials for final production, ASA maybe also in the running but the costs of ABS are better as each unit uses a bit of material
@@BarnesysBuilds Yeah, Instation where I get my filament ASA is an extra $9 more than PetG. The only problem I have found with PetG is the supports are harder to get off when you have alot of it.
@@corty1980 It sounds like PetG is more like a nylon, I’m keen to try other newer materials than ABS, warping could be an issue on such a large part with so many supports
Looks amazing great work i have a wb panel van i could only imagine how useful it would be to have a 3d printer
I am definitely interested in the tail light bodies Barnesy, it looks like you are making good progress there. Mine are very tired like all of them now probably, and have been waiting for someone like you to get somewhere with them. I have two sets of new genuine lenses that I got a long time ago when they were still available. One set is on my Ute and one set are still in the box. You are definitely a wizard with the 3D printing. The wheels look good. We were in Victoria last week touring about. Jeff
Hey Jeff, Yes sure I’m happy to keep plugging away at them, I think only a few small mods and they will be ready to wire up a test one. Where did you venture from to get to Victoria?
@@BarnesysBuilds We went down from the Southern Highlands of NSW to near Port Fairy where we finished a Great Ocean Road trip last year. Then on to SA to tour the Peninsulars then back through western Vic and home. Camping in the canopy on my Land Cruiser. Good trip.
Great job Aaron. I can absolutely appreciate the work gone into your tailight buckets. Ile definitely purchase two with globes once you have them ready for sale. Great choice for your wheels. I hope they dont scrape on your front guards. Talk soon mate.
Thanks Tim, I still have to figure out how the globe inserts were produced, maybe heat pressed in. The bloke said that 7.5 inch should clear the guards, any wider and they would, so hopefully they are alright.
Very nice indeed!
I commented this a couple months ago, but still am curious - do you think you could make air vent block of plates and sell them on your website?
The same air vent I scanned?
@@BarnesysBuilds the air vent on the h series dash
@@jimmyy9273 yes that was the one I scanned as an example, it would need to be taken apart done properly however for a production version
@@BarnesysBuilds fair enough
Gday, I can truly appreciate how much effort you’ve put into reproducing the tail lights, it’s a massive achievement to have the first one come off the printer as good as it is, top effort mate and good to see the young bloke want to have a go to, cheers
Thanks Matty, coming from a bloke that is good at his craft as you that’s a massive compliment! Yeah the young fella was keen to get involved! Cheers
Hi Aaron, those tail lights look superb. I was thinking of doing the exact same thing, but I think I will just wait until they are in your shop. I will be chasing the LED version for my electric WB. Keep up the great work, and great videos. Don't let a few dud comments put you off, you are never going to please everyone. Chris
Thanks Chris, I think LED will be the go, bit of work involved yet but I will solve it. Yes and it’s hard to not take a comment like that personally but at the end of the day you really cant please everyone.
Good stuff mate looks great, you would have no trouble selling those
Perfect choice on your wheels mate.
Thanks, yes They do suit the body of the H series
Been watching from the start for the Ute. Not to see a cashed up bloke show us how he makes money. Won't spend $150 on a part but has 3 3D printers. You may want to revisit your fan base. Later
Sorry you feel that way mate, that’s not my intention at all I’m documenting resurrecting rare parts and the process involved as a lot of people have asked to see it. So it’s because of the subscribers I am doing this video and progressing the spare parts for these vehicles.
@@BarnesysBuilds If you can 3D print front bumper bar rubbers for a WB Statesman, I'll watch the video and buy a set off ya mate!
@@Balony77 I think I saw some bloke had them made out of cast rubber actually, or it may have been the rear thick rubbers on the bumperettes.
@@BarnesysBuilds I've seen the rear bumper rubbers for sale, but not front main bumper or bumperette rubbers. If you know of someone that remakes the front ones, flick us a link.
@@Balony77 some bloke definitely made the thick bumperette ones, I remember he was getting preorders on the Facebook group HZ -WB Tonners and Utes or Wb kingswood group, I can’t remember but I can find out
Love those wheels they will fill those arches nicely , the tail light buckets are mint , you are getting good at the printing, could you possibly print those vents? they are hard to get pristine, Great to see you moving forward and looking forward to your next vid , your not far off driving her mate .
I agree, I think that style of wheel really suit the h series, I know it’s a common choice but you really can’t go past them. I just used the vent as an example of the process really, I wasn’t aware they were hard to get either. There’s so many little parts here and there that need reproducing again, the list is long. I will maybe revisit after I get the Ute started and assembled as it has taken me away from the main build quite a bit.
Well done with the 3d printing mate. Wheels look awsome. 🍻
Thank you! Cheers!
great job mate. currently fixing up a HQ my self. 3d printing is going to make it a lot easier for small parts like this.
Definitely a great tool to make restoring that bit easier. Good luck with the build.
Good work barnsy unbelievable what you can get done with today's technology not easy but you have cracked it again love your work I'll wait to see how to get the gages
Thanks mate, yes a hard project but well worth the end result. I actually started a website called Unicq.com.au to sell the kits as well so if you want any info on the gauges as well they are on there. Cheers
Dipstick doesn't fit as you have a HQ-WB sump not a commodore sump different location. Should have left the column shift linkage out and replaced the top section with the new section from rare spares as your going floor shifter
Yeah didn’t want to spend the money on the rare blank until I know whether it’s actually a viable column, so I left it for now, most likely replace the whole unit.
@@BarnesysBuilds I bought the blank from rare spares for $50 and removed the column linkage
@@owenbuttfield9876 that’s not that bad really price wise. Cheers
Hey mate, I saw your GTS gauge 3d printing vid and you said you were keen for making all sorts of 3d models and what not. Was just wondering if you would make some holden vz commodore binnacle gauge pods to fit a vy commodore dash please :)
Hey mate, happy to look at them if you have a sample I can scan and reverse engineer, it takes a bit of time to get a product modelled up to exacting measurements so if I take a product on it’s got to have a market to justify the work involved. Are these a popular item people are after?
Сварка аж глаза режет)))
I’ll bet that cost you
Insurance covered it
With the cruzer the extension on the chassis rails are for a PTO winch that runs off the front diff. I had a fj 40 shorty with a ford 202 cross flow did allright but the clutch at the time was near 1k to replace
Mate on my hz on the steering column where you have that nolathane bush from factory was like a thick felt pad that joint the coupling together ,and also that screw you mentioned is an adjustment against the worm drive in steering box but don't over adjust as will bind if this helps , cheers , shaneo, Nelson, NZ, 👍🍺
Yes I think the felt factory one is the way to go, will be ordering one, and I was informed about the worm drive adjustment as well, thanks 👍
Another great episode mate I might be wrong here but my understanding is you need a return on the catch can which is how mine is set up. You’re running both rocker cover into the unit so I’m not sure where the return pressure goes with that setup. I could be looking at it wrong though
Hey mate, Yes I don’t think the return is a thing from my research, I read they are just pipes to channel any oil residue vapour away from the engine into a canister that you drain out from the base. As they have a filter at the top any air pressure is released out that way. I also saw a lot of people have two catch cans one for each rocker cover. I really would like to see other setups in more detail however. Thanks
Just thinking you might be able to use a drain snake to clean the inside of the rails.