nice work mate

Hey Barnsey, as a qualified panel beater that works in resto. We use the same method for highs and lows but for a quality finish we will 2k high fill and block with a speed file, and repeat this again. So we filler, prime & block, prime & block again then fine sand and paint. You can prime and block 3 or more times for a better finish

@Dylmark

2 жыл бұрын

In saying this if the primer is applied thick you can use it as a filler and just block it right down to remove lows instead of using filler over primer

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Awesome mate, that's good to hear after all the work, I was debating whether it was a mistake not going to polyester surfacer but I will get the same result now I can see the remaining lows. I will fill them and reprime as you mentioned. Do you just apply your base coat over the 2k once it's all sanded?

@Dylmark

2 жыл бұрын

@@BarnesysBuilds aslong as you have no body filler rub throughs you are good to go. If you do I suggest spot priming and blocking the areas again, using a rattle can to spot up before painting can create issues, so 2k our iof a gun is the go always

How gratifying is it man, when ya stand back once she’s one colour and look over them curves ha! , I usually put epoxy sealer on before high build (which is thinned out epoxy primer ) as this is a great chance to see the panels uniform in colour and free from imperfections whilst sealing in the filler work, and if ya need to do more corrections then everything is still at the same stage in the process. You wanna avoid using the high build to lift deepish lows. Finish the underside and set her down on the chassis once all lines are fitted etc , paint door jambs and hanging panel inside faces , fit front end then you’ll be able to roll outside for wet sanding the entire outside in preparation for topcoat . If space is low and ya have to paint (top coat) where you prep then re-do ya booth ,brand new plastic and blow down or cover ceiling and run a wet floor which will catch falling debris and won’t float up into the duco when ya walk around painting , keep punching out the work man can’t wait til you show us the shine!

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Anthony, yeah it was definitely a buzz seeing the lines worked, you really know where you stand once the grey high lights the remaining trouble areas. I know once they are nailed I will not be worried at all about ripples once top coats on. I will do that, I wanted to wait for engine and exhaust to be dropped onto chassis before I put the body back on but engine is still a bit off. So might just drop it back on chassis and start to line up guards, weld cowl on and bonnet. I'm still thinking of painting guards and doors separately as well to keep over spray down now. Thanks mate

ha barney at this point i would go around with a pencil and circle all pin hole and fell for highs and lows and mark around the edges of them and start light block on thos areas then lite skim of fill then re prime those areas then then re aply guide coat and long block from guards to door so they look like there cut from the same cloth remember a coat of prepsole will put a gloss on the panel showing you all ripples

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Thnaks Justin, will definitely go back over it now and start to touch up the remainig spots that aren't right, there's only a handful now which is great!

Awesome, really admire your dedication to doing the best possible work. It's really generous how you share your learnings online

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Tony, I'm giving it my best shot.

Looking good. Nice to see water in the creek too.

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, yeah we have had a fair drop the last couple of weeks.

Thanks for the update.. great work👍

Great work mate. Coming along well. Now it's in high fill. .

Good one Barnesy, all the hard work is starting to pay off now. It is looking good, you have straightened out a lot of imperfections. That banana line you refer to is often over looked. You can tell that body was not a Kingswood from the factory because the little welded tags for the vertical trim behind the doors are not there. Those trims were hard to find a long time ago,they tended to fall off. Also the side body mouldings are held on with plastic clips; those holes would have been punched before painting and as a result are painted too, not drilled afterwards (punched holes are a lot neater than drilled ones). Glad you are going to keep the rope down tonneau cover, that is what makes them Holden and it will stand apart from other restorations, plus they look good. Jeff

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Jeff, I'm pretty happy with it, still needs a couple more touch up and primes to get it 100% straight but will get onto those now. I used to have a Kingswood ute, unfortunately it was stolen but I remember the clips for the side rails. The 82 commercial ute style had thinner side moulds which I have researched and believe they were glued on. Not sure where I could find new ones of that style.

@jefftheaussie2225

2 жыл бұрын

@@BarnesysBuilds Thieves are bastards and should have the green rubber ring treatment. Yes the Kingswoods got the clip on side mouldings standard, anything on the others would have been after market. That stick on moulding is much thinner comes on a roll and it should be easy to get. Put it on on a warm day, it is more pliable then. Kingswoods also got the tonneau cover standard, “Belmonts” had it as an option. The owners manual calls the base model (poor mans version) Holden, not Belmont, the rich mans version is the Kingswood. The WB 253 was the only one to get the Quadrajet carby, earlier ones (all the Hs) only got the dual throat Stromberg. That is indicated on the ID plate as L36 (700 CFM for 4.2, 750 CFM for 5.0 L. I will stand correction on that though). Don’t worry the old 253 with the Quadrajet gets up and boogies when you get the secondaries open. On mine they get stuck open and that makes for interesting moments, but that is another story. Only the Statesmans got the 5.0 L motor, it wasn’t an option for utes,vans or 1 tonners. There is some chatter that it was possible to get a 308 in a special blue colour in the very last ones by special order but the only people who can verify that would be the few, if any, involved. The owners manual only shows the 3.3 six or the 4.2 V8. The other tag shows that if you can decode the number, the owners manual is helpful there too. The Sports dash was also an option and quite a few got that. Jeff

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Nice info Jeff, thanks, did you work for Holden?

@jefftheaussie2225

2 жыл бұрын

@@BarnesysBuilds No, I spent most of my life farming but am a Holden man. Always regretted not buying a new WB when they ran them out in 1984. Into all good old things. My WB is pretty original, 253,4 speed, dash, Kingswood, 290,000 kms and I have had it for nearly 25 years so I suppose it is in much the same condition as it would be if I had got it new. The maranello red is showing its age though. I am enjoying your stuff, I know paint is hard if you are going in green, I have made all the mistakes there is then some. It takes balls to do what you are doing. Jeff

Coming along nicely 👌

Great work Barnesy

Nice work mate coming along nicely

Barnsy I’ve had plenty of utes from hq to wb the job you’re doing is unbelievable buddy keep them coming it’s coming up 👌🏼🇦🇺👍🏽💪🏼🍻🍻

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Greg, that's awesome to hear, definitely keeping them coming!

Your Ute is coming along great mate keep up the great work!! Look forward to the next episode!! Can’t wait to see the finished product!!

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks mate

Good vid Barnesy and thanks for showing the songs, you're doin well man.

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Songs definitely make the timelapse more enjoyable! cheers

Have you been watching Mcfry's build? Shows how he got the body line down the sides so straight. Keep up the good work 😃

@benilko7430

2 жыл бұрын

kzread.info/dash/bejne/m3pt0KepaM22m8Y.html

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

I have recently stumbled over his channel actually, there's a few ute builds going now! I did see his banana tape lines but thought they were a bit sharp to be honest. He may have feathered them out since but haven't seen the vid. I just let the original panel do the shaping as the lows weren't on the line luckily.

I wouldn't be doing any hammer and dolly work on areas where there is filler. It will crack.By rights the hammer work should be done first before you start filling and blocking. I would suggest using a shorter block too, for manuverability and the panels are convex, I would use your 12 inch or 18 inch and just block and fill, the dolly work should be done unless it's a good distance from the filler. Good move getting the dry guide coat. You can even use it wet. Work on that swage line and make sure you keep it straight. 👍🇭🇲 aussie v8's

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah i must admit i did have to hammer and dolly a few highs after body filler but only small areas as there was no way around it, i then did remove body filler in the small area and reapply to avoid weak points.

Great job mate, let that primer dry for a couple of weeks and take your time blocking it. If you blow it off with air the pin holes will be easier to spot, use your dry guide coat too, you don't have to put it on so heavy, just enough to give you a contrast. Great job man, keep up the good work. What colour are you going for?? Don't scrimp on any cheap base coat and clear. I recommend the Axalta branded products like Cromax or Standox. I've been using them for years and rate them high. Cheers mate. 👍

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Troy, definitely will take my time, might drop it back on the chassis soon to get all panels on. I'm thinking of a gun metal bronze tone, or maybe the original ice blue or ice green colour. I'm probably keen to do a custom colour though. I was going to use DNA paints as I have heard they are forgiving to apply and great quality.

Can you see the light at the endow the tunnel ? Next big moment after paint is seeing engine in the bay then Hearing her fire up ......

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Sure can, a distant light, but a light none the less, definitely looking forward to getting the engine fired up!

Good to see you got guide coat. It will be your best friend. As I said previously, you will learn with experienc, protect your body line. Masking tape is your friend for that. Use the spline to apply the filler. It leaves a consistent finish. Once you start to see the bare metal stop. Either your bodywork wasn’t up to scratch or maybe apply more filler. From what I see use your long spline to apply the filler and I will guarantee you will see how bad your application of body filler was originally. Also remember to sharpen your spline so it leaves a smooth coating of filler. Use 40 grit to do body work. You want to be shaping, at this stage not refining. Considering you have spent so much of your time on this, try some spray polyester filler. It will be worth your time. The stuff doesn’t shrink.

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks mate, I definitely applied all those steps and I pretty happy with where the body is currently, it's around 90% there with just filler and high build so I'm going to stay the course, sand with the splines and finer grits and expose the last remaining low spots I found on the rear quarter, fill those reapply high build and be done with it. Time to move on and get it back together. Thanks

Awesome work getting the hi-fill on looking great:) I'm curious if you run your compressor with a refrigerated dryer or desiccant dryer setup to keep the water out? Keep up the fantastic work mate

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks mate, I don't have anything serious on the compressor, I just empty the tank before I spray and drain any water build up and I also have a water filter link and pressure gauge mounted on the wall to remove any remaining condensation but really I need to upgrade this to a bigger double filter system before I lay down the base coat. Thanks for watching

What full face mask did u use with the 2k mate?

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

It's a ebay knock off 3M 6000 Series full face. The mask is identical and takes the 3M filters so it's an affordable option that's still as effective.

Dude, sanding inside your spray booth, you are creating alot of work for yourself, you wanna make sure its' completely dust free before you start shooting paint, but i'm sure you know that. keep up the good work though.

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

You work with what you got mate, it's not perfect but it's not covering my shed in dust. Cheers

The build is going along and the hard work that you put into the panel work is paying off. A couple of things not sure how you mix your fillers but watching Howard Astell and he uses a cheap electronic scales like a kitchen scale to accurately measure both amounts he mentioned better consistency between batches. I know that the final paint job is looming and very stressful so have a look at the XACOUPEGUY kzread.info/dash/bejne/pYiewa2ios7Nj6w.html he is painting a falcon in stages as he says its much less stress, he is a panel beater not a spray painter. BTW are you going to have tie down bars on each side?

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah thanks, I may break it up into sections as it's a huge job otherwise. Guards doors separate then body and bonnet. Will check him out. Cheers

@jefftheaussie2225

2 жыл бұрын

Don’t put coffin rails on it.

@adelaideinvigilation5230

2 жыл бұрын

@@jefftheaussie2225 Coffin rails what an apt name for such useless piece of equipment

@BarnesysBuilds

2 жыл бұрын

@@jefftheaussie2225 no I'm not interested in the coffin rails, just the side moulds