Hey everyone, my name is JB, and I have a genuine fascination with just about everything with a mechanical component to it. I recently re-named this channel after leaving my previous job as a fleet mechanic at a large cattle ranch in Nevada, so if you hear me introduce myself as "JB The Ranch Mechanic" in most of my older videos, that's why. This channel will continue to encompass a wide variety of topics and interesting projects, from cars/trucks, machine tools, repair/restoration, firearms, musical instruments, you name it - if it has a mechanical component that I can mess with, I'll probably find a way to mess with it! Please have a look around, and if you like my content I would really appreciate it if you'd consider subscribing! Thanks for watching!
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Grest video, Thank you!!!!
Great helping educational!
That was awesome video thanks for the help
Bleach will not cure the mild. Need something else
Dude replace your windshield too😂🤣😂 crack kills bra
It's a ranch rig, man...every single one of them are busted. 🤣
@@AllThingsMech Yup sos my dads, that’s why I was watching this video lol
Great job, wish I knew how to get ahold of you! need this done on my RV, I'm a 70 year old female, I would love to attempt it my self, "BUT"
All those drums sound fantastic always, like yours doesone of the best sounding snare drums ever
Yes all of the 1970sihave has that black foam inside the lug casings ihsve four 70ssupra phonicsl
Mine cranks but wont start. No fuel supply to the 3 individual injection pumps. Just wouldnt start one day. Guess the fuel pump isnt working..
Lift pump $130
@@shovel5180 nope. No juice to the shut off solenoid.
I have the Exact Same One except that it’s a 6 Gallon!
Why people don’t use marine grade plywood for rebuilds amazes me, better yet use OSB for a subfloor 😮
1) This was over 3 years ago when a 23/32" sheet of plywood was $90 at Home Depot. I used what I had lying around. 2) Welcome to the world of cattle ranching, where ranchers don't care about doing the job perfectly - they just want the job done. "It's good enough for who it's for." 3) The trailer is still doing fine. Thanks for watching!
U should also give the sylvania zevo 7443W led bulbs, and find those with a bubble on the led diode for water degree of light for your reverse light. Those would love sharp on ur Tahoe and it will look good and match with the rest of the zevo led bulbs. 🙏🏼
Nice video ! I’m doing my rear springs on my 2000 F250 crew cab that I ordered out . I’m from northern Mn with salt which your truck condition looks so different. My bolts don’t come out like yours did . Need to get that torch kit like you did . Makes those bolts easier to get out . I’m just using mapp gas and impact gun and busted a 1/2 ratchet with 4 ft bar . Thanks
Very good video. The torque converter is what explodes. The PR valve you mentioned in your repair list is what triggers the torque torque converter to puke. If caught in time not only should the torque converter be changed but the PR valve should be changed also
You need the lock out the cooler bypass so it is always cooling and not stuck bypassing
I have the same code but it only comes on when I start pulling a trailer would that be a fuel pump problem or something else
It's possible. I've found that these trucks are pretty sensitive to fuel flow rate - they'll run ok with a slight restriction, but will throw a code pretty easily. It's possible that you have a partially clogged pump sock in the tank; that would make sense if it only gets angry with you when you're pulling the trailer and are constantly needing higher flow rates to keep up with engine load. Are you noticing drivability issues/extended cranking times, or is it just throwing the code? It's also possible that it could have something to do with the active grille shutters if your truck has them...why those stupid things are on the same circuit as the fuel pump is a total mystery to me, but they are. Makes diagnosis a real pain. If you don't have a bidirectional scan tool that can check all of those components, I'd just take it to a shop for a diagnosis. It's pretty easy to get stuck firing the parts cannon at these things without finding the actual problem - it even took my dealership several attempts.
Cranking time when the light is on is longer then when the light is off. Drivability has no issue even when the light is on only issue with the light is on once I get around a 1/4 tank it wants to sputter and die when the light is on. I just got the truck a few weeks ago and the car fax shows that 2 fuel pumps have already been put in the truck over the last year. Could it be a evap leak that could cause any problems with the fuel demand?
Maybe next time try putting the trailer in a bag of rice? Seriously though, can you do a 1 year update showing how the LVP flooring has held up (especially in front of the slide floor)?
Dave's Drum Depot was owned by Dave Fogle, a great drummer and big inspiration for my drumming career. I lived in NW until I moved to San Diego in 1991. Cheers!
How did Milwaukee/home Depot find out that you didn't buy that tool from an authorized retailer?
They asked me for a receipt, I provided my Amazon order info as proof of purchase. Lady on the phone straight up told me that they wouldn't honor the warranty because amazon wasn't an authorized distributor. Bear in mind this was several years ago. I've heard from multiple people that they may have changed their policy since then.
They asked for a receipt? I don't even have receipts for tools I buy from home Depot lol
@TheTuneAce Home Depot wasn't involved at all here since I bought the tool on Amazon. I was talking directly to the Milwaukee CS rep on the phone.
I was told this laser module for this saw is no longer available
Got mine for 38
I have the similar one from Ryobi in Canada. Its similar like that one. its the hp74l. with a right angle and corner drive. I bought it for just assembly and disassebly for this even for building computers. you don't really that high torque stuff.
funny you swapped camshaft and crankshaft terminology. In the FORD Racing technical bulletin, instructions for replacement of timing chains, tensioners and tracks they also refer to the camshaft sprocket as a crankshaft sprocket. I keep forgetting to let them know that.
Ha, I guess it's an easier mistake to make than I thought! If the Ford guys can screw it up in technical documents, then I guess I don't feel quite so bad. 😂
How about the astro
Updates?
Good timing on this comment, haha. I actually just changed the coolant filter for the first time since the install and initial swap (I changed the smaller filter out after about two weeks just to let it catch any junk that may have been in the coolant, so the bigger filter I just changed had been on there for about 2 1/2 years). Zero issues - the valves worked perfectly, no leaks anywhere, lines are in great shape, coolant still looks brand new. Two thumbs up!
@AllThingsMech sweet. I have a small Crack on my overflow tank and a little play in my water pump, so I wanted to do as much as possible the first time. Any other recommendations 🤔 and how did you settle on a filter bypass pressure
Not much additional to add, sounds like you've got it covered if you're replacing the pump and the overflow tank. You may want to flush the rad while you're at it depending on age/mileage and how much gunk there is in the coolant, but that's about it. I can't take credit for the filter choice, I just took the internet's recommendation and ran with it, lol. These are coolant specific filters though, so there's no bypass or anti-drainback diaphragm or anything like that - just a straight in and out design to maximize flow and help avoid pressure spikes. Once the install was complete and the engine was up to temp, I made sure to check that the hoses on both the input and output sides were hot just to verify that I had good flow and no obstructions, and it was fine. It's been a solid setup ever since. I will say that it looks like I've got a crack developing near one of the bolt holes I drilled to mount the filter, but that was probably because of the rough roads out at the ranch beating that thin sheet metal to death. Now that I'm living near pavement again it hasn't gotten any worse, so I'll probably let it ride for now...even though I should probably stop-drill the crack and weld it up. 😂 Good luck, give me a holler if you have any other questions.
@AllThingsMech so I've figured out what I'm gonna do... the upper radiator hose gets an inline coolant filter with the clear housing, and the lower radiator hose gets the filter to collect everything and to not be as hot at the inlet side. With gravity working for the filter but against changing it, the shut-off valves will come in handy. Thanks, dude. I'll even try to record it as my first youtube video for people to critique and advise.
I have one exact like that one . 24 years old and still kick ass even to new rigid vacuums.
Just got one. Razor sharp. It’s a looker for sure. Heavy duty which I prefer. My go to beater is the Cold Steel Recon, tanto w/serration. Yes, this knife could be a beater too, but for now I’ll use it as a general non beater.
How many miles did have when the pump failed
Do this apply to the 4.0?
Great video 👍
Thank you sir, that was very helpful. I'll muster enough courage to do also what you did 😀
Hi do you have the site or part number for the bushing that goes in the arm part that you in welded in, please?
Quick question isnt better to replace the anvil assembly?
Not if there isn't any damage to it. If it's just an over-lubrication issue, this fix is free. There's no need to spend money on parts if it isn't required.
what type of hydraulic oil does this machine use?
It's a pretty forgiving system. We used Chevron THF1000 since we had it on hand for all of our other equipment, but any universal tractor hydraulic fluid should work just fine.
If you can do it, I can do it. :) I watched both video's twice. Great info. You are good !
very good information. Just opened up our 2019 Lodge park model to discover a soft floor under the sliding door, I'm sure it's been leaking since new ( we ordered this new in 18) Wondering if I can just pull the flooring back, cutting out the last foot, replacing the soft part and just re-glue the floor back in place. Would that work ?
Can you tell me why I can manually put it in reverse but then when I put it all back together it doesn't allow me to go back into reverse once I shift out of it
thanks for the info had the same problem now its fixed and running great
How is the snap on ratchet made differently than this? It actually has a recessed grease zerk in the head and you pump it full of grease until it oozes out.
Great question. I don't own a Snap On ratchet so I can't speak for how they are made; all I know is what the service information from Milwaukee says, and it shows no lubrication points in the head of this model. My guess (and this is total speculation) is that Snap On uses a different type of friction mechanism that exerts more drag on the pawl, which allows it to still function properly when packed full of grease. I'd love to get my hands on one to tear it down and look at the differences, but that's an investment I won't make any time soon since I'm not turning wrenches full time anymore.
Sorry for commenting on an old video! Will the code go away when the issue is resolved, or does it need to be cleared with a scanner?
No worries, always happy to answer questions. In most cases the code will clear itself out after 2 or 3 drive cycles as long as the problem has been fixed and the computer isn't detecting that same issue anymore. However, it's always faster with a scan tool, and it also helps you see if you have multiple codes. If thats the case, even if you fix one problem, the light still wont go out and you could end up chasing your tail trying to figure out what's really going on (been there, done that 😆). Even a cheap $30 unit off of Amazon is handy to have around just so you can pull your own codes and clear out CELs, so I highly recommend them to anyone, even the home shop folks.
I know everybody says bleach, however it don’t get rid of it completely … use peroxide on mold areas just a tip thanks for the guidance bi needed!!
Our favorite American made knife company’s been ripping us off for years blaming it on cost of supplies? Wrong greedy unions and C.E.Os
6l80 is a garbage transmission plain and simple. GM has made this transmission for 15 years and still hasn’t figured out how to make it shift worth a damn. I have a 2021 Silverado custom with this transmission with only 35k miles on it and it’s the sloppiest shifting transmission I’ve ever felt. Literally clunks into gear sometimes when downshifting. Total piece of shit. It shifts like what you expect from an old worn out transmission with 250k plus miles. It’s junk!
Nice upgrade, where did you get your grille emblem?
After years of only buying Toyota because my dad got burned one too many times, we bought a vehicle with this transmission lol Hopefully it doesn't go out any time soon.
I’ve done that now I lost my day time running light .
Good idea
I just got my ratchet back from Milwaukee for the second time for the same problem. They have now sent me a new one. Right out of the box doing the same thing. I did buy my ratchet on Amazon, and they honored the warranty. I even had to upload the per proof of purchase. Maybe I just got lucky but now I’m going to clean the grease out of the head. I was suspicious of that but didn’t want to do it until I had Milwaukee try to fix it. Thanks for the video. Good job.
Yeah, I'm thinking that Milwaukee may have lightened up on their warranty policy a little bit in the years since my last interaction with them - I've had a couple people tell me over the last year or so that they're accepting Amazon purchases for warranty work now, which is great! Glad you were able to get it replaced, hopefully cleaning it up a little will get it back to 100% for you. Thanks for watching, much appreciated!
I cleaned and greased mine up gunna try this one thanks man
Where did you get your push bar brackets from?
The push bar came as a kit with all of the mounting hardware and brackets included. If you're referring to the brackets for the light bar, same thing. It came with mounting brackets and hardware, I just had to drill a couple holes.
Another nail in the American vehicle coffin? Yep! We cant make anything decent anymore.