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• 
  @peterthefoxx4 күн бұрын

  Hi, nice one getting this all to work. I'm quite interested in the Harvi interaction part. I'm just about able follow what you're doing at 14:00 Would you be open to sharing the PCB schematic at all / at least for that side?

• 
  @peterthefoxx4 күн бұрын

  Ah nvm, I think I get it now. If you had a 9V ac/ac adaptor it would essentially be an LDR in series from the adaptor going to the Harvi I think. Suppose it’s possible the resistor divider is also helping in some other way - sounded like it was very sensitive to alterations here.

• 
  @routercnc95174 күн бұрын

  Essentially yes. The resistor divider was needed to drop the AC voltage to a level the Harvi needed. They were 1 Watt because they needed to allow enough current to flow as that is what the Harvi needs to sense. They get warm but not hot.

• 
  @routercnc95174 күн бұрын

  I couldn’t find an AC /AC adapter which output a low enough voltage. Otherwise they would not be required.

• 
  @peterthefoxx3 күн бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 Thank you for the elaboration, I’ll do some experimentation!

• 
  @P.Trim696 күн бұрын

  Yes Sir watching a rerun better than cable.

• 
  @routercnc95174 күн бұрын

  OK, happy viewing!

• 
  @boldford6 күн бұрын

  What software version are you running?

• 
  @routercnc95174 күн бұрын

  Do you mean on the CNC machine? That motion control software is called UCCNC. I installed in around 2021 and the manual shows it to be software version: 1.2111. If you mean the software version for the microprocessor code uploader (Visual Studio??) into the TI board as part of this ELS project I used the exact same version James showed in one of his videos. I tried the current version at the time when I built mine and I could not get it to work. So I re-watched his videos and downloaded a the same legacy version as James and that worked fine. Of course because he made this a few years earlier that was the latest version for him a the time. It was too long ago and I can't remember the exact version but watch his videos and you will see it when he installs the code developer software and hooks it up to the microprocessor. If you meant something else, please let me know.

• 
  @boldford4 күн бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 I meant the Clough42 ELS. I wonder if my issue is the same as yours. I will try the earlier release. Did you report the issue?

• 
  @routercnc95173 күн бұрын

  Ok, ELS version 1.4. The other issue was with Microsoft Visual Studio and no I did not report it to Microsoft

• 
  @boldford3 күн бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 Thanks for the info. Troubleshooting is always a process of elimination.

• 
  @panbekon147027 күн бұрын

  For the backlash, you can just put 0.1mm variable compenastion in driving that motor

• 
  @routercnc951726 күн бұрын

  Ooh! Yes that’s a great idea. Software backlash compensation on change of direction.thanks!

• 
  @Somun-a28 күн бұрын

  Looks like a cnc mill now :) For the thrust bearings, I hope you didn't forget to grease them (I think the video just shows the dry fitting).

• 
  @routercnc951727 күн бұрын

  Yes they had a light coat of grease. Not much as they would attract dirt and maybe swarf.

• 
  @sonsrc132629 күн бұрын

  Glad u sorted that out still think u should mill with it lol

• 
  @routercnc951729 күн бұрын

  Don't encourage that other guy!

• 
  @WillemvanLonden29 күн бұрын

  In my opinion you are one of the best narrators on KZread.

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  @routercnc951729 күн бұрын

  Thank you, that is very kind of you. I'll just keep on doing what I'm doing!

• 
  @sacene29 күн бұрын

  Thanks for the content! I just want to see you build stuff.

• 
  @routercnc951729 күн бұрын

  OK thanks. I’ll see what I can do!

• 
  @pierreboone56829 күн бұрын

  its just a simple drill 🙂 nice work again.

• 
  @routercnc951729 күн бұрын

  It certainly used to be!

• 
  @RedounderАй бұрын

  One advice about the ferrules.. Strip the wire long enough to just protrude the bottom-end.. This way you always have the optimal conductivity (...And don't twist the wire together when using ferrules)

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Thanks. I've used lots of ferrules since this project was uploaded and tend to do that now.

• 
  @MrGarkinАй бұрын

  I want to try a similar technique for 3d printing + laser router application, so not realy care about possible polymer creep under load. My surfaces are in a square of 500x500mm. Only thing around i could think about is a sizable thick glass slab with thin selfglued grinding paper. Getting a mill guy or real precision tools bloats budget roughly ~50%, so i try to avoid it for now. Would be glad to hear any tips.

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  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  If you mean tips for epoxy for self-leveling, then try not to mix any air bubbles in. One way is to mix it in one jug, then open a hole near the bottom and let it flow carefully into another jug. Then pour from the second jug onto the frame. This is to minimise air bubbles because these will upset the final surface. Or invest in a vacuum chamber to release the bubbles that way.

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  @MrGarkinАй бұрын

  How did it work in your case long term?

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Many years later and no issues at all

• 
  @RustyInventions-wz6irАй бұрын

  Very nice work. Interesting. Gave me good ideas on my drill press

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  OK, go for it!

• 
  @klaasbloemАй бұрын

  Darwin would love this machine, so much evolution going on 😄

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Yes, very little left of the original drill - just how I like it!

• 
  @jonathanperrozzi1313Ай бұрын

  Quick question, how did you select your printer, specially the P1S vs X1C. I know there is a cost differnece btween, but do you think the X1C would have offered more value now you have used the printer. I only ask as my printer has recently gone faulty, and im between do i repair or make a resonable upgrade into Bambu. Great channel, great content

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  I looked into a range of printers while researching and the new Bambu Lab printers seemed to be at the next level according to reviews. So then it was looking through the range - A1 mini, A1, P1P, P1S, or X1C. Mini was a bit small (180x180?), P1P was same as the P1S but w/o enclosure, and X1C had the same basic mechanics as the X1C but was considerably more expensive. I think the X1C with AMS was getting close to £2k, whereas the P1S with AMS was £900. When I asked my colleagues they said what do you want to do with it? Well as a beginner that is a difficult question because you don't know what is on offer and what could be done. So that's why in the end I went with the P1S because it was enclosed, so could print more materials, had a good size print area, had the AMS to allow multi colour prints (do I need that!?, yes is the answer it turns out) and I could buy this model plus lots of filament as still be much cheaper than X1C with AMS. I think the X1C had a few more sensors, and had hardened nozzles etc. but I think the P1S could be upgraded for not much money to have some of those parts. So on reflection I have no regrets on this model. It seems to do so much for you, prepping the nozzle, cleaning it, purging, auto bed levelling, that for the most part you can send a print and walk away. You can monitor progress on your phone app, and you get a message when it is done. The only times it has lost adhesion was when the part was getting quite large (fixed with adding a brim, and +5 deg on the bed), or the part was almost up to the edge of the build plate because it was a big part (fixed by printing 2 small pieces and clipping them together). It is also very fast. It is my first ever 3D printer so you will need to research a bit but I would buy it again without hesitation. I've even considered the A1/mini as a cheaper side kick to speed up iteration of parts, but I think I'll not get that past finance!

• 
  @jonathanperrozzi1313Ай бұрын

  I think you are spot on with all those comments. For anyone that's interest Bambulab are having a sale until the 5 July. The p1s with the ams is 140£ off usual list

• 
  @lewistaylor863Ай бұрын

  Hi - use the tone function in the arduino software, rather than hard coding each pulse event into the software - You then won't run out of clock cycles on the arduino as the tone function operates outside of the regular code execution speed. You can calculate tone to RPM or to mm/s by working out the steps per revolution and ball nut pitch etc. That is the best way I have found to control the rotational speed of a stepper motor (rather than the more normal position type control). I would also code in a deceleration as well, at higher speeds and hard stops it might miss a step or two - might not matter too much, but if you are trying to keep track of position based on step counts, then that might catch you out.

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  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Hi Lewis, OK sounds good. I've had lots of suggestions over using different libraries for stepper control and there are quite a few. I did wonder if they take up more clock cycles to branch over to and in the end because I enjoy tinkering I hard coded the pulses, so good to know they run separately. As you can see it runs plenty fast enough though and I'll probably stick with it as it is working. But for future projects I'll look into the tone function. I wondered about the deceleration so I guess it could loose steps. On a CNC machine that would be a problem but maybe not too big a deal here as when running high speed you are probably just getting somewhere near you need to be. The knee DRO can track where you are in absolute terms. It might be a bit more sympathetic to the mechanicals though and stop the grub screw coming loose. I think 3 lines of code should do it . . . ?

• 
  @lewistaylor863Ай бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 yeah a ramp down will definitely be more mechanically sensitive. Not sure how you are running your ramp up at the moment, but my solution was to use a while loop. While currentTone<targetTone; currentTone++, tone(currentTone, stepperPin);. Don't quote me in that, but it's close enough to give you the jist. In that case targetTone is the rpm to want converted to Hz, at the start currebtTone is zero, and then as the whole loop runs, the currentTone valuenisnincreaded.by one each time until it reaches the desired value. If that ramp is too slow, you can either increase by two or three or four each time, or divide the target tone by a set vale and use that, which then gives you a ramp over the same time period regardless of end speed i.e. the higher the target speed the more aggressive the ramp. Oh, the above is for ACC, just to the reverse for deceleration with the appropriate tweaks. The above code would also need to ensure that you are using interrupts for your inputs and once the ramp starts it won't stop until it has exited the while loop.

• 
  @lewistaylor863Ай бұрын

  The interrupts fix that issue and are good practice anyway

• 
  @MakerMadnessАй бұрын

  Also, Arduino’s web based IDE I believe supports OTA (over-the-air) compiling on some of their boards. Using a ‘OEM’ OTA solution is surely the way to go, especially for firmware updates.

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  I've come so close to getting this to work with HC-06 bluetooth modules I may give it another go. These Nanos are so cheap if I can make it work I can cover many such projects. However, there are other boards with WiFi and other systems already set up for SOTA so that is an option too. I'll also look into web based IDE as you mention. I do seem to like doing things myself (I learn more that way, but it can take longer!). Here is the history so far - I have managed to set up a Nano to act as serial host to talk to the HC-06 and I can use AT commands to talk to it. I used different pins (10 and 11) to keep the TX and RX free otherwise it does not work. There was a library which allowed data to be transmitted on these other pins. I then set the Baud rate from the default of 9600 to 115200 which is supposed to be the max for the Arduino but it stopped talking after that (I matched the Baud rate in the sketch to this value so it should have still worked). So I bought another HC-06 and left the default Baud rate at 9600 (I guess this means slow uploads, but let's get it working!), got it talking via the Nano using AT commands. Then plugged in the bluetooth USB into the computer and got it linked to the HC-06. It showed up as COM6 on my PC, which was a good start. Then I had to reconnect the TX and RX wires (which had been on pin 10 & 11) between the HC-06 and the Nano as we were now supposed to be sending data from the PC to the HC-06 and into the Nano via these proper channels. But IDE could not recognise the COM port and would not upload a sketch. Note this is HC-06 which is only a slave unit (not HC-05 which can be master and slave) and only has 4 pins, Vcc/GND/Tx/Rx. Feels like one step away but I'll come back to it another time since the software is working OK for now.

• 
  @MakerMadnessАй бұрын

  New subscriber here. Really enjoying this project, not enough software controlled drill press videos out there on the tube. Any chance you’d be willing to share your code with us? Also, if you’d like to setup a Discord or something for this project to support people wanting to undertake something like this as well as to share ideas, I think that would be sweet.

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Hi MakerMadness. Welcome to the channel. Have a look around - I tend to get involved in long term projects so be prepared! Yes, happy the share the code. I noticed when editing the video that some of the variables were not used in the end, plus add-ins such as the EEPROM support (to save values when powered down). Also be aware it is flat code, no function calls, and does not make use of the many stepper type libraries out there, I wrote that code myself. As for Discord I've heard of it but have never looked into it. I don't have much time for many of the social media sites (videos take long enough!) but I have been a long time member of the 'mycncuk' forum. I'll put a link in the text box above to the long thread on this build series. If you check it in a few days I should have uploaded the code there as a zipped file. I'll post in this reply when I've done it. Hope that works for you. Thanks.

• 
  @MakerMadnessАй бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 would love to take a look at the code, do you have a avenue in which you may share it with us?

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Hi MakerMadness OK, I've uploaded to the code shown in this video to the mycncuk forum. See link in the text description box above. Or search for 'mycncuk metalworking pillar drill experiences' and scroll to post #105.

• 
  @ASW4567Ай бұрын

  Hi, I've just discovered your channel and I'll be here watching videos for a while xD Someone on garage journal linked me here, they thought you might have some advice for me on buying a milli n New Zealand (I'm in christchurch) ... would you be willing/have some advice to share? I have about 12k NZD to spend, should I be looking for a used VMC, a new Machinery House mill, a used second hand mill in that price range, or anything I haven't thought of? Thank you!

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  I don’t own a milling machine. I have built my own CNC router though. Current project is a heavily modified drill press but it cannot be used for milling. You would get a good response from the mycncuk forum. Lots more mill and VMC users. Thanks

• 
  @ASW4567Ай бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 thank you :)

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  @@ASW4567 If YT will let me put a link here the forum is here:www.mycncuk.com/index.php It can take a bit of time to get through the moderation and be able to post. If you get stuck give me a reply here and I'll nudge the site owner.

• 
  @ogmakerАй бұрын

  I doubt that you are fighting a surge. More likely all those coils opening and closing are creating radiated EMI. This tends to get recieved by cables in the box. The cheap and easy way to deal with that is by adding a ferrite bead as close to the source of the high frequency noise. EMI is traditionally contained by using a "star" grounding methodology to protective earth. (not Ground 0v). Having shielded cabling with the shield running to a single PE will prevent wiring from capturing radiated noise.

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Thanks. I think shielded cable would have been my next step on more of the cabling if the capacitor had not worked (the stepper motor cable was already shielded to PE via the lower panel, but other cables were not). I do have some ferrites so I'll try those if it starts playing up in the future. For now the capacitor seems to be working.

• 
  @mjohnlwАй бұрын

  Do you have a flyback diode across the brake solenoid? Without it, you will be dealing with inductive flyback voltage that can cause noise the issues you are seeing. I also recommend that you isolate the brake solenoid circuit is isolated from the electronics, if possible.

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  I think I showed it in the video but yes there was a diode across the solenoid/electromagnet - it was at the power supply terminals. Yes the 24VDC circuit just goes from the power supply, through the relay contacts, and to the electromagnet, so separate in terms of the wiring at least. Looks like the capacitor sorted it anyway, thanks.

• 
  @Dave.WilsonАй бұрын

  Interference is a bugger to track down, but when you find it, it's all worth it, (but not when you find that you caused it in the first place, ask me how I know). Good job on finding it. I think I'd like it better if the controls were a bit closer to the front , rather than having to reach over to the back of the machine, but that's just me, I'm only short :), you made a nice job of it, I like it.

• 
  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Thanks. It looks further on camera plus I was leaning out of the way to allow you to see the knee whilst I pressed the buttons. In practice it is fine for me to reach. Also saves me pressing it unintentionally and raising the knee into the workpiece.

• 
  @sonsrc1326Ай бұрын

  Love the toys r us hammer, a bit of a technical one for me love the 3D printing

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  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Yes I have a storage case dedicated to wall fixings. Has brown, red, yellow plugs, 5, 6, 7mm masonary bits, small hammer (big one does not fit), AC voltage detector (to check for cables in the wall). So if I need to fix something to a wall it's all in there.

• 
  @billdoodson4232Ай бұрын

  ​@@routercnc9517I have something similar, everything ready in a compartmentalised box. However, I gave up using red plugs etc years ago. Now ONLY use various types of Fischer wall plugs. I know they can be 4 times the price, but I have never had the problems I used to get with those red and brown plugs. For the sake of a couple of pennies I know that I'm not going to be called back to a job because "Its come loose."

• 
  @alanclarke4646Ай бұрын

  You must only be using a Class X capacitor across the main! Edit: sorry, when I saw the blue-and-brown cable...

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  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Yes, poor choice of wires for debugging! Only 24VDC used here for the electromagnet, but good advice if I was using mains.

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  @WillemvanLondenАй бұрын

  Choose the random seam position to lose that line in Bambustudio.

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  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  OK thanks, I guessed there was a way to sort that. I'll do that next time.

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  @BIGWIGGLE223Ай бұрын

  People that ask "but, why?" obviously have no clue.

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  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  I guess you could ask that about anything. Mountain walking, motor racing, horse riding. If it makes you happy then it's all good.

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  @BIGWIGGLE223Ай бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 lol! True story.

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  @pierreboone568Ай бұрын

  looks good 🙂

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  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Thanks Pierre, good to see you still following along.

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  @mikestarkey7989Ай бұрын

  YOU KNOW you've no intention of not turning into a milling machine? You know you want to!😁😁😁

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  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Still tempted. . .

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  @mikestarkey7989Ай бұрын

  The one big criticism I've got is that you tend to explain TOO much, things that you've already told us, or that is obvious even to a non engineering type like myself. Overall though I enjoy the blogs

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  @routercnc9517Ай бұрын

  Ok thanks for the feedback. The videos take a long time to edit so I probably miss how often I say something. I’ll watch out for that. Out of interest do you prefer just machining? Or just a quick intro and then jumping to finished parts? I’ve tended to edit as if you are following along and might do something similar. All feedback is welcome, thanks.

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  @user-mv2bw7lg8z2 ай бұрын

  Cool man! Thank you.

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  You’re welcome!

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  @andrewmazurkiewicz1052 ай бұрын

  A bit late now but I would recommend birch plywood (it's called multiplex here in Europe) It's very well finished, stiff so it doesn`t need to be so thick. Also some cheap metal hinges would do the job nicely. Nice video by the way. Cheers Andrew

• 
  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Thank you. To be honest next time I’ll try harder to find a metal enclosure. This took time to make and the cost of the wood, paint etc was about the same.

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  @andrewmazurkiewicz1052 ай бұрын

  Funny thing is I have been gathering parts to put together a new cnc machine based on a sorotec cmpact line kit for a while now (years! as my old one still works and there's no room for 2 machines) I bought a metal enclosure and I don't really like the size of it. Your video has inspired me to make a box (I'm a retired guitar maker so I have all the woodworking tools) Thank's for the inspiration. Cheers Andrew

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Hi Andrew. Glad it was useful!

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  @Dave.Wilson2 ай бұрын

  I've just subscribed, need to go through your pervious videos, but I'm interested n the ELS on the lathe that you did previously, giving me loads of ideas. Thanks (wife's going to kill me when she realises what I'm up to).

• 
  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Welcome to the channel. The ELS was a great project, you just need to intercept the post when it arrives and hide the bits in the workshop!

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  @sonsrc13262 ай бұрын

  I loved the little reenactment of the CNC machine made me laugh, but yes, I I noticed it well done on the drill bits 🤣👍🥇

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  @kazolar2 ай бұрын

  Play with fan settings, Bambu Studio fan settings for PLA is very aggressive, for a large part like this, you can dial it back a lot, if you're bed is already at 65c, if not -- go to 65c. Warping with PLA with a brim is usually just too much cooling. Glue stick is always your friend for large parts. Always fun to see live tests of suddenly cutting current to steppers.

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  I’m at 55 I think. I’ll bump it up a bit, thanks

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  @sacene2 ай бұрын

  Just some advice for the 3d printing, I don't have the X1 or anything -- but warping with PLA should not be a problem. I can only assume it's the X1 being a speed daemon, on slower prints, the PLA has a chance to cool down close to the nozzle. Slow down the first layer a lot in the slicer - will give you good adhesion. Clean bed thoroughly with IPA, worst case, a little hairspray or artists fixturing spray. Make sure your bed is as close as level as possible, bed meshing etc. You shouldn't need the brim with PLA. Other than that, you probably don't need all those supports, PLA can some serious overhangs, compared to what the slicer is suggesting. E.g. a through hole can easily be printed (in PLA) without supports -- it often comes out better - you start to get a feel for what you can do. Great channel! appreciate all the efforts.

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  This is actually the P1S but it has the same mechanics as the X1. It does slow down a lot on the first layer, very slow compared to other smaller prints, so I guess it might be doing some of that already. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but even small parts have lost adhesion and brim has worked ever since someone suggested it and I started using it. I'll have a look at the first layer speed when I print this part again in the future; on a 3 hour part the extra time is probably not too bad. I haven't cleaned the bed for a while so I can try that. I was warned away from hairspray and glue on this PEI plate so holding back on that one for now. I'll clean it before printing this cover again but holding back re-printing right now as I might change the design a bit to accommodate whatever cover I design over the motor. I have done a few things without support and they did work, but I've also had the opposite (not used and not worked) so I've been using them if the slicer warns me. Maybe I'll get more experience as I do more prints and get to decide a bit more for myself. If they pop off easily and leave little trace then no bad thing I guess. I really appreciate all the 3D printing advice so please anyone reading this feel free to offer suggestions to help me improve. Thanks. 😃

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  @jamesdownes19742 ай бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 I’d recommend warm soapy water to clean the plate, especially if you’ve used glue stick. It’s fine to use glue stick on PEI but the texture can make it a bit messy. You must use glue stick if you print PETG - that’s a mistake you only make once!

• 
  @jamesdownes19742 ай бұрын

  Also, I agree with @sacene about the supports.

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Ok thanks more to play with

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  @HeathLedgersChemist2 ай бұрын

  Funny accent for an American.

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Haha 😛

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  @alanclarke46462 ай бұрын

  It's not a proper diagram without a coffee stain! 😂

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Absolutely!

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  @tommyfisher14352 ай бұрын

  Great progress and thanks for sharing such great content. You must have enough original parts to build another drill press. 😀

• 
  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Just about. I keep wondering about selling them but seem to justify hanging onto them!

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  @tommyfisher14352 ай бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 Totally agree, I'm the same with parts, you never know when you might just need them.

• 
  @jamesdownes19742 ай бұрын

  Always enjoy your videos! I have the same printer. I find that the textured plate works well for smaller parts, but I found similar lifting problems on bigger pieces, especially if they had sharp corners. I’ve started using the Bambu High Temperature plate with glue stick and I’ve not had any lifting at all.

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Thanks for that. I’m not going to reprint it yet in case I want to have features which clip into whatever cover goes over the motor. I may add vertical slots to reduce the pull too. I’ll have a look at those high temp plates in the meantime.

• 
  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Perhaps when i do print it again I'll run a glue strip along the front and back edge of the PEI plate where the lifting might occur, and the heater element probably does not reach.

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  @jamesdownes19742 ай бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 can’t hurt to try. I had some limited success with glue stick on the textured PEI sheet, but didn’t work for a big, flat-bottomed print. I’m not convinced it was due to insufficient heating at the edges, but I’ve no evidence to back that up. I shelled out for the high temp sheet and I get perfect adhesion every time (so far).

• 
  @Dave.Wilson2 ай бұрын

  good job on sorting out all the issues, I'm in the process of doing the same thing to my lathe. One thing I did notice when you were cutting th thread at the end of it all, you had the compound set to 30 degrees, on these import lathes, you need to set it to 60 degrees, as they label them up the other way round!!, caught me out first tie. well done on the job though.

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  I don't usually both angle the compound especially in aluminium, but this time I thought I would do it properly. Watching the camera setup, framing, and focusing on the work I missed that the threads were pushed to one side! Several others noticed too. Anyway, pleased to have it finally working after such a long time of building it. Thanks

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  @luisenriquez40512 ай бұрын

  Hello Routercnc I have two questions brother I hope you are well, your x&y table is vevor? And the second question is how you tried to remove the play in the wheel handles so that it is more precise? Thanks excellent work.

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Hi Mine was from Aim tools but is probably the same one sold by Vevor. I replaced the leadscrews with ballscrews and ballnuts to remove the play. I think I showed it in a later video. Thanks.

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  @sonsrc13262 ай бұрын

  Nice bit woodwork next time, can you please use the right screwdriver bit? I think you need a PZ2 sorry Just a pet hate of mine lol

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Apologies! Yes I was struggling there. Unfortunately it is much smaller than PZ2 and although I have lots of bits these very small ones are starting to get chewed up. I’ll see if I can get a quality set. Any recommendations?

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  @sonsrc13262 ай бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 well I normally use Stanley pz2 they last for quite a time great videos by the way

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Ok great thanks

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  @HeathLedgersChemist2 ай бұрын

  'go ahead' ???

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Too American? I’ll watch out for that one.

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  @HeathLedgersChemist2 ай бұрын

  @@routercnc9517 Very much so. Thank you.

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  @kazolar2 ай бұрын

  careful with pla in electronics cabinets. Sometimes it's sometimes it starts deforming from strain. All my electronics enclosure related parts are either PETg, or ABS. I've been using some carbon fiber filled stuff more now -- PETg-CF is really great, easy to print on the bambu, and has a nice look (you'll need a couple of upgraded parts for the P1S to print CF materials)

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Ok thank you I didn’t know that. I’ll carry on with the wiring and look into replacing them later. Thanks

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  A quick search reveal a fairly well thought out set of tests from this guy :kzread.info/dash/bejne/amykzZScfrLLd6g.html Results are at 28:22. If the enclosure stays at room/workshop temperature then the PLA creep looks similar to PETG and ASA (for the 'C' shape test). If the enclosure gets up to 46 deg though then load creep on the PLA is almost double PETG/ASA. I'm wondering that since the lift motor is used very intermittently it might be OK? I'm going to see what happens for now, although totally agree with you that for general enclosures it makes sense to go with PETG/ASA based on looking into the topic. Appreciate the comments as I learn more about 3D printing.

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  @paulrautenbach2 ай бұрын

  @routercnc At 16:21 you have a clip of the control panel being routed out. I think it should have been a clip of the bottom panel being routed out. Otherwise, I enjoyed the video as usual. Thanks.

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  Oops! I will have a word with editor!

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  @WillemvanLonden2 ай бұрын

  A regular 3D-printing spree.

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  I know! I went from ‘I don’t need one of those. They just make trinkets and small plastic figures’ to ‘what else can I make with this new toy!’

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  @neffk2 ай бұрын

  This is beyond "a few small improvements". Is there an episode where you explain your motivation or reasons for doing all this work? Not that you owe us an explanation but sometimes it really ties the room together, so to speak, to understand the *why* that is driving a creative.

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  I could do but I fear it might run to 42 episodes. So in short I massively enjoy problem solving and am strongly driven to design and create things. I could go out and buy something complete but I just don’t get much buzz out of doing that. Apart from the 3D printer I bought recently which was so well developed I didn’t consider making my own. Thanks for following along.

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  @Arckivio2 ай бұрын

  I'm still trying to decide whether to go for ethernet so I'm re watching these to help me decide but I've noticed a couple of things. Why would you need to slave the B with the Z when they are wired together & the controller sees them as one anyway? The other is unrelated to the ethernet, how were you planning to use the 3 digit panel display to read the 24000 rpm of the spindle? I can't remember if you ever did use it but would have been easier to un clip the real display from the VFD & make/buy an extension lead to add that to your front panel. Also, why wouldn't you use soft limits? That's a weird thing not to use if available. No drawbacks I can think of but could stop a crash, unless never referring all home means a machine has no clue where it is so soft limits would kick in? Edit of my edit, you didn't slave B with Z

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  @routercnc95172 ай бұрын

  The AXBB-E has been flawless in all the years I have been running this machine. Highly recommended. Parallel port had random e-stops despite trying to manage the wiring, earth, shields etc. It was a long time ago but I think I ran 2 steppers off a single step pin for the dual stepper motor axes. I did check with AXBB-E that it was OK to source this much current and effectively run 2 opto-isolators and they confirmed it was within spec. This has worked without issue for years. I never got around to putting the spindle rpm in the display unit, and did think about remoting the VFD display but in the end I just open the door and look at the VFD when changing speed! I've never used soft limits, no reason really just got the machine working on the limit sensors and left it. No issue with using them though.

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  @Arckivio3 ай бұрын

  M3 nut is 5.5mm

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  @kikki55443 ай бұрын

  merci ! nice cnc ! a question : axbbe is a good card ?

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  @routercnc95173 ай бұрын

  Very good. I’ve had no issues with it at all. Just check it has enough inputs and outputs for your project.