Looking good, to try and attempt to fix the lip at the top of your prints, look at that wall print order setting, check it is printing the outside wall first, also select additional wall each alternate layer, makes your prints much stronger for very little additional plastic, you may have done this already :)

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Thanks Matt I’ll take a look. Just watching it print it does start with the outer wall then infills with a pattern, so it might be there already. I’ll look into wall thickness options though as I think it is a fixed value currently. Thanks

@molitovv

3 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517 Excellent! Does it start with the outer row of the wall first or the inner?

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

From memory the outer but I’ll check next time I print which will probably be the weekend. Thanks

@molitovv

3 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517 Ok, no worries :) - As a side note, I am aware that people that post KZread videos get a lot of unsolicited advice, and I appreciate that you didn't actually ask for help, however I have been through all of this about 10 years ago when I built my first reprap printer and wish I had help then, unfortunately 3d printing wasn't as wide spread then. anyway, glad you are enjoying the printer and getting so much use out of it, they are incredible tools.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

@@molitovv Not a problem, please feel free to give me advice! Same goes for anyone reading this comment. Although I hope to have something to offer the audience for my design, engineering and building videos, as far as 3D printing goes I'm right back at the start! In a way this seems like a great time to get into 3D printing though since these recent printers (Bambu Labs especially) have essentially made printing the same as using a desk top commodity like a laser printer, photocopier etc. And I have all the knowledge base from people who where there at the beginning, like yourself, to give me pointers and advice. I did look at reprap printers back in the day, and got tempted over the years, but I didn't know what to use them for as I'm not really into ornaments or figures. But I've discovered even PLA can be used for basic engineering parts like cable guides, brackets and light duty devices.

I recently discovered polyfix screws from accu which are brilliant. As long as you have a correct size pilot hole they drive beautifully into printed PLA by hand cutting their own thread. The screws thread is wide like a chipboard screw and so can’t be stripped like with a normal screw from over tightening. They create a really strong fixing in printed plastic. And no need for messing about with heated inserts.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Sounds interesting. Are they essentially wood inserts (they M8 ones you saw me use to fix the extrusion to the base) ? Or are they less coarse? Either way I'll check them out, thanks!

If I made one, I'd make it spring to the top rather than the bottom of the stroke. This would mean it would spring out of the way while heating up and setting up the insert. You would then manually press it down to press the insert in and let go when done. The spring would then remove the heating element automatically.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

I did consider that way around but what sold it to me in the end was the automatic force on the insert. But I guess either way works once you have got a feel for the control needed. Thanks.

Nicely done! I was thinking about making one myself, but then I found one for $30 on Aliexpress including the soldering iron and tips, and at that price point, I couldn't really justify building my own.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

I did look at various DIY and commercial versions but since I had most of the parts already, plus wanted to experiment with 3D printing I went this route. But yes often shop bought is the way to go.

Like everything you make the function, fit and finish are all superb. I envisaged it working like an arbor press with a handle to press the insert in. I haven't watched your 3D printer video yet but it seems like a nice piece of kit, those prints looked excellent.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Thank you. I did see one design which literally was an arbour press with a soldering iron clamp on it. I guess it might help to apply some pressure.

Nice side project👌

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Yes. I need to get back to the drill press project!

nice job.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Thank you. It seems to work OK so far . . .

Great idea bud and all made in house 👍👌🏻

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

I could have bought one, but you know how it goes in my workshop . . . !

This is an interesting version of the press tool. I do approve of a good THK linear rail! I'm interested to hear your thoughts on the design after some more use. I have some advice for your 3D printing, especially regarding the long arm: - Holes always print undersized, I typically increase the diameter by 0.5mm for a clearance hole. - You could have printed the arm without any supports. The holes are self-supporting as the sides are built up like an arch. The nut hole would have also printed fine because 3D printers can do bridging, where they speed up to jump the span. - There's no need for the lightening holes, as the infill will reduce the wastage. (You probably used more printing time and plastic than you would have without those holes) I typically use extra wall (0.8mm with alternating extra wall enabled) and skin (0.5mm) layers for strength (Especially around holes) and quite a sparse infill. (20-30%) I increase the walls and skins as required, depending on the part. - You can ask the slicer to just print a single layer, this is really handy for confirming the layout of holes without wastage of time and plastic - You essentially end up with a flexible plastic template.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

That is all really helpful thank you! For the arm I guess I'm still thinking of aluminium parts being machined whereas your comments do make sense for 3D printing. For the walls and skin I'll have a look at the settings - at the moment there seem to be so many I've not touched any extra wall layers and bed temp from 55 to 60 deg. I will open the holes another 0.5mm to ensure they are clear, it felt like they needed that during assembly. For support - I can't remember if the slicer warned me of overhangs on this print (it did on one of them). I'll try your suggestion for similar parts with 'archways'. The single layer options sounds very helpful, especially just checking everything will fit. Where is that option (I'm using Bambu's own slicer)?

@yngndrw.

3 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517 I've never used Bambu's slicer (I use Cura) so I don't know for sure, but allegedly: "On the Prepare screen, you can Cut at a specific height, and choose to keep either the top or bottom, or create separate parts" If that doesn't work, you could always just export a very thin model from your CAD program. Just make sure to turn off the brim if you're doing this, or you won't know where it starts and ends!

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

@@yngndrw. I'm in Bambu Slicer now but not obvious where that is. I can easily pause the print after the first layer or 2, either on the PC or on the printer control panel. I'll do a google search just in case I'm missing it. Thanks for all the advice!

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Something you asked at the beginning - I was inserting some 3mm inserts today into a small box and they pushed off to one side. I managed to apply heat and push them central again and they do function, but don't look so good. I'm blaming the inserts for now as they are plain with no lead-in. They were sold as 3D printer heated inserts but now I think they are more for injection moulding. I've got some proper ones on order so we will see if they are better. I'm also designing a locking system so the iron is held up out of the wy against the spring tension while I set up the insert. Then release the lock and it should drop down and press it home. I'm now on version 3 of the lock device as I've not been happy with v1 and 2!

@yngndrw.

3 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517 Regarding the slicer - I'm not sure if I can post the link as they are often blocked, but if you search for that quote in Google (With the speech marks), it should return a single result for a thread on the BambuLab forums. It's the first response with pictures. I've only ever used the inserts with the lead-in so I can't comment on the style you currently have, but it sounds like either hole isn't quite the right size for that style of insert - It may simply not be possible to get good results with them due to the shape, as they don't step up in size as you insert them. I should probably also point out that my experience with the inserts is specifically with PETg, rather than PLA. Let us know if you're still having issues when you get the new inserts, but I think they will work a lot better for you. The locking system sounds like a good idea. If you're struggling to get a lock that you're happy with and you have a convenient air supply, you could consider using a double-acting cylinder. That would allow you to lift the iron out of the way and with a small regulator for the downwards stroke, you could accurately control the force over the entire distance. (As well as the speed, with a needle valve)

Nice project.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Thank you. Pleased with it so far.

Now a CNC one for multiple holes ;)

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

I did think about adding an Arduino for temperature monitoring and auto insertion but then came to my senses!

@thermicdude9164

3 ай бұрын

Never stops me😂

This all looks great, however, when the insert is placed into the part, even when removing the soldering iron, the brass still holds enough heat to distort to an angle while settling in place.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

OK thanks I didn't know that. Any way around that? Maybe insert it 90% and then press it into place with a cold, flat piece of steel bar so it cools for the last bit?

@yngndrw.

3 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517 I still do them by hand, (With a standard conical tip and a high temperature) but maybe the process I've ended up using will guide your design. - I found that if you push them in too hard, you end up with a ring of plastic rising up around the edge. To combat this I greatly reduce the pressure for the last 10-20%. - If it isn't straight, I quickly (before it has fully cooled) correct it again with the iron. The plastic is still not fully set so it moves very easily and doesn't leave any voids. - I find that even with the reduction of pressure at the end, the insert still likes to spring back up when I remove the iron so I tend to over-set them slightly. If they are still proud of the surface, I adjust the level when straightening. - The manufacturers of the proper inserts do give hole dimensions. I print to these dimensions, then as the holes shrink during printing I re-drill them before putting the inserts in. I find it's worthwhile performing this extra step as they work much better with the correctly dimensioned holes.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

@@yngndrw. This is all great info and now I've done a few I can relate to the details you mention. At the design stage I did contemplate automatic pressure control (e.g. arduino + stepper and leadscrew, plus temperature monitoring) so it could apply the optimum temp and feed rate via a software curve based on the insert diameter. But there were so many designs that just used manually pressure I decided it was not needed. Maybe I'll see how I get on with the proper inserts I've ordered and the decide. I did download an insert hole dia guide (CNC kitchen?) so hopefully they are close but perhaps I should try reaming them out. Thanks again!

@yngndrw.

3 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517 The CNC Kitchen inserts are very similar to what I use, I'll be switching to them when I next buy some as mine are no longer available. As I mentioned in my other reply, 3d printed holes always shrink but it is repeatable, so you could increase the hole sizes slightly to avoid drilling them out - I was just too lazy to do the trial and error for that as it doesn't take long to drill them out.