Oh my gawd, he mentioned upgrading the table!!! Get ready folks!!!

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

That was the dining room table and apparently off-limits for improvement. I've moved it into it's new home now.

Dont rip something from the warm PEI Bed!!! Put the sheet bed out, let cool it down and the part will come loose!

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

Sorry about that, I'm still learning. This is the sort of advice I hoped I would get as I'm pretty late to the scene. I have since tried a part and let it cool and it lifted off pretty easy.

@svenkrause3433

4 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517 Learning by doing...thats 3D printing...you will master this, easily...

@hotfix7387

4 ай бұрын

I pull stuff off the PEI bed all the time. Small things are fine. Ideally you would let it cool down, but sometimes time is of the essence.

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

Im still new but I’ve taken to the idea of gently pushing the part and if it clicks then carry on. These are all small parts with some height so seem to be OK. I have also flexed to plate for low profile parts.

@svenkrause3433

4 ай бұрын

@@hotfix7387 As the inventor of PEI coated print beds, back in 2012, beliebe me, its better...😉

Love the immediate implementation of functional printing. But plz give us some sauce on how the bracket looks on the drill press. Don't leave us hanging like this! :)

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

That will be in the drill press series. I’m waiting for some parts to arrive for the electrical side but these might be a few weeks away. So maybe I’ll finish the video with what I have so far which will include these brackets. Stay tuned for more on that!

Wow yours is fast. Just got a cheap second hand (£30) one last week. Printed a sacrificial gear for my milling machine. If I print a second one, it's paid for itself. 🙂

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

If it works then it’s all good. This machine with AMS and one spool of grey was £900 for context! I half sold it to the finance controller as ‘educational’

You got it right in the title of this video, but inside the video I heard and saw you reference the "PS1" versus the P1S. I saw you loaded the support PLA in your AMS and I wanted to make sure you knew that served a very specific purpose of acting as an intermediary between your supports and your models, when you specifically enable it's use, and that support PLA is not to be used like regular PLA to print models. For PLA Bambu Lab recommends taking the top off and/or leaving the door open. That's why you got the other comment about a riser with an air escape built into it as that effectively acts as the same heat release. Re-run the calibrations after EVERY firmware update. You never know what changes they are going to introduce with firmware changes, and you want to make sure your printer is calibrated with the latest and greatest. Last thought I will leave you with, there are aftermarket (Big Tree Tech comes to mind) user interface panels for the P1S that make it look like the X1C. I have been told by multiple P1S users who have gotten one of these GUIs that they love them and made using their printer easier. So I recommend you look into one of them as the LCD screen and lack of LIDAR are some of the few dings I would give the P1S.

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

Ok sorry if I got the name wrong! Yes I’m ok with the white PLA being support material. At £68 a spool (according to the slicer software) I’ll only use it where needed. I loaded it as it came with the machine along with green and orange 200g demo rolls. We have used the white support just to paint a bit of highlight on some parts we printed, just for fun. I’ve ordered a spool of white, black, yellow so we will use those in future projects. I’ve printed PLA ok so far with the lid on and door ajar to keep the noise down. If it works I’ll keep this but if I have issues I’ll open everything up . I’ll look into aftermarket parts as there seems to be so much out there and I’m playing catch-up. Although it seems like I have bought into the scene at the right time. Just print and go! Thanks for your comments.

If I where you, I would print out one of the Glass lid spacers (with vents) available. To reduce novel creep if you are only going to print with PLA & PETG.

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

Ok thanks I’ll look for those. Is there a single source for Bambu printable upgrades? Found a few spread around. I’m also looking for a support for the Bowden cable which stops it rubbing on the lid but can’t remember where I saw it! Still much to learn and get into.

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

It’s been great so far with a closed lid, plus the AMS is resting on there. What does it do exactly? Is it stopping thin parts curling off the bed? Sorry, just trying to learn more, thanks for the comments

@robeart

4 ай бұрын

​@@routercnc9517 I'll answer your questions in order! 1. Makerworld is Bambu's official model website. It's got tons of profiles and models for upgrades specific to the Bambu printers under the "3D Printer" category. You can also find tons of stuff on Printables and Thingiverse if you just type in "Bambu". The Bowden tube support you're looking for is under the name "Cable Chain PTFE Clip", but there are likely alternatives if you don't like that specific solution 2. The glass lid traps heat inside the printer, which can cause issues like blobbing or heat-creep on smaller parts made from low-temp filaments like PLA. Honestly, if you're not getting any issues, don't worry about it. If you ARE starting to get issues like that, just opening the door works for me usually. If you're super concerned, you can always 3D Print an AMS riser that still allows access to the glass lid. For a specific recommendation, you should look into the Hydra AMS upgrade. All it requires is replacing some plastic pieces inside with 3D printed parts, and then you can use spools with weird sizes in the AMS. It doesn't even void the warranty Happy printing! Welcome to the community :)

Hairspray (not recommended) or some other 3d printing adhesive like 3dlac is mainly for small parts that have little surface area or large parts with large surface areas that may warp, so it's actually helping adhesion rather than helping you release it. As said below just take your buildplate from the printer and set it on a cold surface and it will come loose and if it doesn't flex the buildplate a bit to help it come off. That scraper you printed will ruin your buildplate if you use it.

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

Thank you, still learning so these are all great comments. The hairspray comment I heard was related to an older machine, maybe an old Prusa or something so I guess things have moved on. I've also seen people washing the build plate in soapy water but I'll leave this as it is until it starts having issues. I've done quite a few prints on it now . . . I just keep thinking, ooh, I can print a part for that (little jobs around the house etc.)! Draw it, print it, 20 mins later it's in your hand.

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

Doh. Was typing the above reply and printing a long thin part and it just lifted at one end and the nozzle started pushing it around. I'll try that again!

@pvg5559

4 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517 Soapy water and the rough side of a sponge does the trick for me mostly. The build plate gets contaminated after a few prints. 99% Alcohol is often used but on the gold build plate soap method described above works best for me. But sometimes I do use 3dlac if I need assurances for a long print. Happy 3d printing!

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

Very helpful thank you.

@MisterkeTube

4 ай бұрын

The textured PEI of the P1S is fantastic and should not need any glue or hairspray or other stuff for PLA! For very thin parts, use mouse-ears or a brim in the slicer (well, at least in OrcaSlicer you can use mouse-ears). If PLA is lifting, you're probably cooling way too much, so lower the part cooling a bit.

I've been thinking about getting a 3d printer, but was a bit concerned how difficult it would be to set it up. Thanks for showing that it's so easy 😁 Now i just have to worry about being an old git learning to use CAD software 😂😂

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

The one thing that took a while was connecting it to the network. It eventually bluetoothed to my phone but finding the wireless took some time. I had to permanently switch off the 5GHz setting in the router and only run at 2.4GHz. Also connecting via the QR code on the LCD display did not work and I added the printer through the Handy App. Once connected it is all fine and does not need to be done again.

Definitely time to make it better 👍👌🏻😂

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

It seems to be perfect as it is, although there do seem to be lots of printable mods so maybe it can be improved!

Just let the bed cool down and your print will go off easily. Taking the plate out of the printer can help cooling it down faster.

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

Ok thanks I’ve been trying that and it works great!

Quick question, how did you select your printer, specially the P1S vs X1C. I know there is a cost differnece btween, but do you think the X1C would have offered more value now you have used the printer. I only ask as my printer has recently gone faulty, and im between do i repair or make a resonable upgrade into Bambu. Great channel, great content

@routercnc9517

Ай бұрын

I looked into a range of printers while researching and the new Bambu Lab printers seemed to be at the next level according to reviews. So then it was looking through the range - A1 mini, A1, P1P, P1S, or X1C. Mini was a bit small (180x180?), P1P was same as the P1S but w/o enclosure, and X1C had the same basic mechanics as the X1C but was considerably more expensive. I think the X1C with AMS was getting close to £2k, whereas the P1S with AMS was £900. When I asked my colleagues they said what do you want to do with it? Well as a beginner that is a difficult question because you don't know what is on offer and what could be done. So that's why in the end I went with the P1S because it was enclosed, so could print more materials, had a good size print area, had the AMS to allow multi colour prints (do I need that!?, yes is the answer it turns out) and I could buy this model plus lots of filament as still be much cheaper than X1C with AMS. I think the X1C had a few more sensors, and had hardened nozzles etc. but I think the P1S could be upgraded for not much money to have some of those parts. So on reflection I have no regrets on this model. It seems to do so much for you, prepping the nozzle, cleaning it, purging, auto bed levelling, that for the most part you can send a print and walk away. You can monitor progress on your phone app, and you get a message when it is done. The only times it has lost adhesion was when the part was getting quite large (fixed with adding a brim, and +5 deg on the bed), or the part was almost up to the edge of the build plate because it was a big part (fixed by printing 2 small pieces and clipping them together). It is also very fast. It is my first ever 3D printer so you will need to research a bit but I would buy it again without hesitation. I've even considered the A1/mini as a cheaper side kick to speed up iteration of parts, but I think I'll not get that past finance!

@jonathanperrozzi1313

Ай бұрын

I think you are spot on with all those comments. For anyone that's interest Bambulab are having a sale until the 5 July. The p1s with the ams is 140£ off usual list

So scrolling through comments I didn't see anyone yet mentioning STL is not good format for eport your files. That is why you round hole was not that round. STEP format is way better. Cheers.

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

That is good to know, I can export either of those. I just remembered seeing 3D printers using STL so went with that. I'll try that next time, thanks for the tip.

shaky tables do not mess up the print quality

@routercnc9517

4 ай бұрын

I saw someone experiment with that and yes it made no difference. Just maybe makes you feel better? Anyway it's pretty good in it's new home (not on the dining room table - that did not last long!).