I just got my P1S combo and it has completely changed the way I think about 3d printing. Rather than the printer being the limitation (print quality, reliability, materials) it really comes down to how big your imagination is. One of the best things i’ve purchased for sure

@TapticDigital

Ай бұрын

This couldn’t be more true, I’m not hesitant to print bigger and more complex things, I trust that it will work.

My introduction to the world of 3D Printing was the P1P. It was a complete 'plug n play' experience. The largest learning-curve is routine maintenance. (Thank God for YT) I have had this machine for over a year and it has been pretty much flawless. Customer support has been superb and replacement parts & upgrades are reasonably priced. Yes, it is proprietary, but it has to be for the preservation of performance. I have found that placing it upon concrete block on the ground eliminates the majority of noise, for a bedroom setting. The aesthetics are amazing and highly customizable to one's personality. Over-all, this has been one of the most enjoyable and satisfying purchases ever. For someone new to 3D printing and on a budget, I would highly recommend the A1-Minni, for testing the water. Otherwise, the P1S is surely to please and is very capable machine. FYI: If the primary use is for prototyping , printing tools, etc, having multi-colored capability may not even be necessary.

@TapticDigital

21 күн бұрын

At first I debated if I wanted the AMS or not, as most of my multi colored prints were just simple layer changes up to this point. But once I saw something that was printed with multiple colors on a single layer, I was hooked. It’s a very capable machine, and fantastic for rapid prototyping.

I already had some 3D printers. Just printing some little statues or toys will be work out great on almost all 3D printers these days. But printing out verry precise and tight fitting parts seems to be a challenge. Tweaking one thing, eventually results in other "problems". Or it seems to be an endless search in calibration. My last printer was a multicolor printer from Geetech, well this was a total nightmare to calibrate. I've ordered myself the P1S with AMS a few days back, and the Panda Touch is on it's way too. Maybe I will just buy another one when it suits me. Prices are acceptable with the current sale now.

some support material requires WATER. wash the part, it'll soften and assist in removing the support structure.

@TapticDigital

2 күн бұрын

Interesting, I’m going to give that a try. Temperature have any effect? Warm water?

This is a quality channel, love your style! I'm getting strong jerryrigeverything vibes, very good review and very good quality. Subbed :D

@TapticDigital

Ай бұрын

Thanks! Jerry (Zack) is definitely a big inspiration!

I've had my P1S for about the same amount of time as you. I've had the most success using the support filament as an interface material only, with the supports built from the build plate and not on the piece itself. I've had good luck with it personally and like it.

@TapticDigital

Ай бұрын

I’m definitely going to give it a few more tries. The planter I printed using it just wasn’t satisfactory, the interface layer ended up bonding to the PLA and I needed a blade to cut it out.

@PWfrom92807

Ай бұрын

@@TapticDigital It certainly didn't look good based on what you showed the video and I would've felt the same way you did!

This is hilarious. I used your other video to help set up my Ender 3 V2 with the pad+sprite. Igot it working but not consistently and also threatened to replace it. I called its bluff and now I have the same Bambu!

@TapticDigital

Ай бұрын

I love it! It’s consistent, something my Ender really wasn’t.

I'm sure others have mentioned this, but the 'Support for PLA' material should come with a leaflet on how to use it, because like most users, you and I both used it incorrectly on our first tries. So the support material is *not* for printing supports, it's for printing only the *interface layers*; when you insert the roll into the AMS and tell Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer to detect it, it knows it's PLA support material (or you can also use other brands like Polymaker's Polysupport, which BBL's is identical to) you go into the Support section, and change the INTERFACE filament type to the Support PLA, a dialog box will flash asking if it's okay to change a couple of settings for you based on this choice, and then - amazement happens. Both faster because you're printing the actual supports with the regular PLA so less filament changes, and the interface does its job finally. The reason the supports stick so hard to the PLA in your prints is in part due to it's less shrinking than PLA, and the other due to... drumroll please... not drying it. According to the webpage for the Support for PLA, like TPU, the Support material REQUIRES drying before use. A before and after test will confirm this. My first use was printing 2-sided boardgame coins with it, and i did the entire supports using the material and it stuck on as if it were a glob of super glue. Once found out you have to dry it, it went into my SpacePi for 12 hours and I tried it again, of course using it as INTERFACE - and it came RIGHT off.

@aeonjoey3d

Ай бұрын

BBL should change the name of the product to 'Support Interface for PLA' or similar. Also note, they've just reformulated a new product that is a 2-in-1 for both PETG and PLA, and discontinuing the 'for PLA' and 'for PETG' varients, beta testers say it's even more forgiving without drying.

@TapticDigital

Ай бұрын

Very interesting, good information. The primary issue I encountered was the interface layer itself though, while it certainly was my mistake for assuming “Support Material” would be the material used for… supports, it was the layer that contacted the PLA I had the most issues with. It completely fused itself to the flat supported layer, I was only able to remove it by using a sharp tool to “cut” it away, and even then some remained. I don’t believe dryness was my issue, all materials I use are stored in a heated, actively ventilated dry box for between 8-10 hours before use On the flip side, I printed supports with the filament itself, this resulted in superb quality supports that instantly detached from the bottom layer, despite being the same exactly material.

support filament is best used as an interface layer between the support and model. Not as a whole support.

@TapticDigital

Ай бұрын

I don’t think I’d even use it for that, the part that interfaced with the model was the least removable bit and required a razor blade to remove.

@aeonjoey3d

Ай бұрын

@@TapticDigital during printing because PLA shrinks, it actually doesn't end up adhering as strongly to the underside of the print (e.g. PLA printed supports + 'Support Material' as interface = lower z height of support in total) second, you do need to dry it in a dryer before use, BBL doesn't give enough documentation but they do say this on it's website for the material - requires drying before use.

@aeonjoey3d

Ай бұрын

this is not just a recommendation it's the intended use, unfortunatley BBL doesn't do a good enough job of communicating this unless you visit the material's website

Im currently looking at hundreds if videos to decide my next printer. My OG Ender 3 is now a Frankenstein's monster and has very little original on it (heated bed and frame are the only things left lol). So I too now want to soend more time printing and not calibrating. But I do love Klipper... Lol So now im torn between a Bambulab P series or ine of the many others out now. K1C, or Flashforge Adventurer 5 series even the Sovol sv08 beast has ne thinking, but ill probably be back at tweaking again then.

@TapticDigital

Ай бұрын

I was in the exact same boat a month ago. My Ender 3 v2 is absolutely decked out, Sprite Pro extruder, dual Z, custom enclosure (previous video), silicone bed spacers, running custom Klipper. But I kept needing to adjust it, just one more tweak to get good results, readjusting Z offset every print. I love my Ender, I wouldn’t know more than half of what I know about 3d printing if it weren’t for that printer. I thought about the K1, looks great, compatible with what I’m using and all. But I knew I’d likely still be needing to do some tweaking, some calibration and manual offsetting. I’m tired of that, I just want to print stuff. Time is very valuable. I ended up getting the P1S after a friend had been using theirs for a month. Honestly wish I’d done it sooner. It’s a lot of money, but you definitely get what you pay for. I haven’t had to adjust the Z offset a single time, in fact I don’t think I could even tell you where I’d go to adjust it. I haven’t had to level the bed a single time, not even initial set up. Haven’t needed to do any pressure advance calibrating or anything else, it just PRINTS.

@Dirt33breaks

Ай бұрын

@@TapticDigital yeah i was thinking of getting P1P then then adding enclosure kater but again its more fiddle lol. I have watched videos on the P series extensively. Strange how you say its loud though as many people say the P1S is one of the quieter core XY's. I know the MCU fan xan be swapped out for a Noctua in the back there, and there was a Firmware update a while back that reduced movement noise but thats probably what you talked about when u said you ran input shaping many times . Maybe we didnt expect such loudness coming from totally silent Endersteins lol

@hrdcpy

Ай бұрын

@@TapticDigital I"m in the same benchy right now. Hah. Creality had promo last week and I had a dual-z kit and x-axis linear rail kit in my car for ~$50. After considering what is now available (A1 mini is a competitive "lateral" move) I made the decision to wait. Now I'm wondering what the future will hold for all the existing Enders in the world. How can they be salvaged and upcycled?

@TapticDigital

Ай бұрын

@@Dirt33breaks by comparison I think my Ender 5 Plus at work is actually quieter than the P1S, but I’d have to get a decibel meter to check.

@Dirt33breaks

Ай бұрын

@@TapticDigital well i was talking about the fresh race horses compared to our old donkeys

The trick to support pla is to use it only for interface support layers and to give it a .2 top and bottom z distance. I know it says not to, it says to set it to 0, but that just does not work. .2 works every time for me

@TapticDigital

Ай бұрын

Thank you! I had a feeling the overly tight interface was the issue

@aeonjoey3d

Ай бұрын

@@TapticDigital the overtightness is because it's not for printing the actual support, just the interface, PLA shrinks, so the Z height is lowered, it really depends on the height of the print wether or not to adjust the z distance, for some items (like some board game coins I did that ended up essentially being a raft of support material) this helped slightly, but what helped more than that was properly drying it first, it's similar to TPU in that it needs to be dried to work right.

Were you able to do anything to dull the sound?

@TapticDigital

Ай бұрын

Not much, I did run a second “calibration” where it did the motor vibration again and that seemed to reduce quite a bit. Otherwise reducing speed helps a lot. It’s definitely still a printer that I’d keep in a spare room or workshop. I may try printing some TPU feet to reduce vibration and see how that affects noise.

Did you put glue on the bed? Great video! Thanks

@TapticDigital

3 сағат бұрын

Yes I had some glue stick on the bed at one point, rarely needed and only for some filaments.

@ArabellaPottery

2 сағат бұрын

@@TapticDigital Thank you!!

Bro if this is your actual voice i will subscribe.

@TapticDigital

19 күн бұрын

This is indeed my actual voice! I’m not a fan of it personally but my mom says it’s good

@EIEIOOOOO241

19 күн бұрын

@@TapticDigital Personally a fan and now I'm subscribed! (also bc of the great content)😁

Bambu labs. Kicking the ludicrously over priced Prusa and Ultimaker primitive rubbish into touch. Love'em. I own three now. No looking back once you use one!