I had the same problem with my Bambu. To solve it I set the Z-Hop function from Auto to Normal. After that he stopped throwing the printed parts around 😁

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

OK thanks. I think I'll try higher bed temperature first then have a look at that one.

if I have access to both sides of the part (clips for limit switches) I add the threaded inserts from the back to reduce the chance of them pulling out. That drill press is definitely 'pimped up'!

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Ok thanks good idea!

TPU is brilliant stuff!!! I made a timing belt with it & it was really strong & worked fine!!!

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Yes I decided to get going on the PLA first before getting to carried away with the other materials. I'm keen to try TPU some point soon . . !

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

I've been sticking to the Bambu branded filaments as the RFID on them means they are auto detected in the AMS (and I think the correct settings then appear in the slicer). Have you tried non-Bambu labs TPU? If so, which brands? Ages ago I remember seeing the Ninjaflex stuff (and someone made me some seals for my CNC machine out of it!). I'll probably go with Bambu brand TPU for now, but I know friends of mine have run all sorts of cheap brands without issues.

@Arckivio

3 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517 To me 3D printers are a means to an end so all my filaments are the cheapest I can find. I made parts for my DIY CNC router using cheap PLA, such as spacers & cones to support bearings & all lasted until I changed from the bearing to linear guides. The TPU I used for the timing belts was also the cheapest around. I know you have higher standards than mine & you want better looking prints. I have seen Bambu prints from a friend that's really into his printer & he always uses Bambu products.

I remember telling you that you should get a 3d printer and that you would use it for all sorts of things that you never thought you would use it for, glad to see that has come true

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

That’s true! It has taken a while as I had to work on the justification with finance controller. Selling it as educational finally secured the deal. Also started at X1C (nearly £2k with AMS and some spools) then downgraded to P1S, so looked like we were saving money. Learnt that one from British rail ticket price announcements!

@molitovv

3 ай бұрын

They are an astonishingly helpful piece of equipment, I am just looking at buying a resin printer as I want to experiment with printing optical lenses, the quality is so good now that you can do that, it is astonishing really :) @@routercnc9517

@molitovv

3 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517 I should also add that increasing the bed temperature almost always solves bed adhesion, the theory is that when the filament goes down it is obviously very hot, but then cools down, as it cools it contracts and the contraction is what makes it separate from the bed, increasing the bed temperature reduces the contraction, I would experiment with this, failing that, put down glue stick! never fails :)

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Ok thanks I’ll give that a try!

I own a Bambu Lab P1P printer, and what I do is wash the build plate with hot water and soap, (alcohol also works fine) and I put glue from a glue stick on it (I tried hair spray, but that doesn't seem to work with this build plate). I print a lot, and I clean the plate once every few month, and sometimes a a bit of glue. My prints never come loose. But I do use support and brims on slender or tall prints.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

OK that's great. I did try washing it in soapy water bit it still came loose. The brim seemed to do the trick. I may also try higher bed temp as mentioned by others. Thanks

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Out of interest did you choose that model over the P1S, or did they release P1S just after you bought it. Seems a lot of people were annoyed they did that as the upgrade kit (panels etc.) seemed to be quite pricey for the P1P.

@WillemvanLonden

3 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517I do not need a heated chamber, as I mostly print in PLA or TPU, that do not require that. After several printers I decided to upgrade to a Qidi Tech (Clough42 was very possitive) but I had to send that back; I could not get it to print. Then I went for the Bambu Lab P1P. Never had one missprint.

@WillemvanLonden

3 ай бұрын

@@routercnc9517 PLA: bed 55-60 degrees, hotend 210 degrees. Works fine.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

OK makes sense. I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do and in the end thought if I went with the P1S with AMS I should be able to experiment a bit more. If I only ended up having a lazy way to not change spools then so be it. But no regrets so far, hope to try other materials in the future once I’m tuned into the PLA prints. Thanks

If using stock bambu gold textured plate with pla -- bump bed temp 10c -- then it will stick to the bed better, or can always give the bed a light coat of glue stick (printer usually comes with some, or get from any craft store). PLA shouldn't need brims. (I set the bed to between 60-65). The trick with heat inserts is -- get a long bolt of that thread ready while the plastic is still soft, and use the bolt to make sure the heat insert is on straight, you can adjust the heat insert a bit before the plastic hardens around it. Also get 3d printing inserts -- they have a different geometry -- the ones you got are for injection molding.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

Ok thanks I'll bump up the bed temps a bit for PLA. For the inserts I found quite a few bits and pieces around the workshop to make a soldering iron 'drill press' which I think would be fun to make. I like the bolt straightening idea too. Yes the inserts were supposed to be for 3D printing according to the ebay seller but to my mind they needed a lead in dog point or similar. Hopefully the 3D inserts you mention are more suitable and I'll have a look around.

Use different inserts next time, makes life easier. If you have the depth, use the ones with a smooth end on one side, that helps aligning them properly.

@routercnc9517

3 ай бұрын

These were supposed to be for 3D printed parts but i’ll look out for ones like you suggest, thanks