I want to understand the charging curve, please if you can explain there is sudden change in charging current and voltage is going up.why there is no absorption stage then float ?
@GloweIndustries2 сағат бұрын
This is an interesting topic.. Do you know how when you apply a load to a battery you’ll see a certain amount of voltage drop, and after you stop the load the voltage hops back up? Thats similar to how charging works but inverse. They hold steady while being charged until fully charged, and at that point the voltage will rapidly spike upwards to the charging voltage.
@inamaman98914 сағат бұрын
Does lithium batteries don't need tapering current or absorption voltage
@GloweIndustries2 сағат бұрын
CC CV charging is recommended. That basically means constant current (say 10a) until the prescribed voltage will no longer cause 10a of current to flow. At that point, the voltage is held at the max value and as the voltage of the battery increases the amount of current slows down. Ohms law says the amount of amps flowing = voltage (or diff in voltage) divided by resistance = max amperage that will flow from the higher voltage source to the lower.
@joeberginc7415Күн бұрын
Im an Engineer, but for some folks thinking that a zero wire connection could be the bottle neck of that tiny strip of metal in the fuse, is ridiculous.
@hrd998cc4 күн бұрын
Do not give up your day job, worst prep and termination work I have ever seen. You would be sacked on the spot. The tool may get a pass??
@markguerrero59155 күн бұрын
What are the epoxy plates for?
@GloweIndustries5 күн бұрын
To separate the cells so that over the curse of years vibration doesn’t cause the wraps to wear away and force the metal underneath to touch on opposing cells. This is ground to ground and would cause a short.
@westonmalone32056 күн бұрын
I dont hate it for at home stuff like wiring a boat battery, but professionally, no. Ive seen sites stripped apart for incorrect dies/crimps
@Pgh2Dall6 күн бұрын
Link?
@jlwz717 күн бұрын
Will it do 4/0?
@GloweIndustries7 күн бұрын
@@jlwz71 yep! Quite a bit larger, too. Included dies go to up to 350 mcm. (1/0 -> 4/0 -> 300 MCM -> 350 MCM)
@drpc980147 күн бұрын
it looks like i need a way to better control the float aspect of the charging circuits on my ups units. would putting a blocking diode in between the battery and ups to allow current to flow when in inverter mode, then a diode/relay or ? to switch off to block float charging ?
@GloweIndustries7 күн бұрын
@@drpc98014 do you have a BMS? If so you can configure it to cut off charging at like 14.6v, and not turn it back on until 13.25 or so. This will disable charging when the battery is full, give the battery room to drop to normal resting voltage (about 13.3 - 13.35) and not turn back on until either a load is applied (it will quickly drop to under 13.3v with even a small load) or it has sat idle so long the voltage has begun to dip.
@drpc980147 күн бұрын
@@GloweIndustries Yes the lfp batteries I have contain a bms but with cheap batteries I don't trust them. The batteries I have are a 16 amp/hr miady and a 100 amp/hr mjbsan both sold on Amazon
@Hz_Locker7 күн бұрын
Thanks for this! That's fackin badass!
@GloweIndustries7 күн бұрын
I love it.
@BadLabCustomz7 күн бұрын
Dude I’m so freekin tempted, I’d never bought one because of the cost, a decent hydraulic crimp is at last $100-$150, why not buy this one!!!
@GloweIndustries7 күн бұрын
I wanted to make sure I’d crimped at least 1k lugs before I gave a recommendation, and recently shot well beyond that. HIGHLY recommend. Can’t emphasize that enough!
@BadLabCustomz7 күн бұрын
@@GloweIndustries yea that was a badass buy for real, I have a nice set of TEMCo but they only press one side of the lug in the Chuck I’m going to press a couple when I get a chance and cut them in half to have a look I’m curious now
@GloweIndustries7 күн бұрын
@@BadLabCustomz the Temco with the kinda spiked universal press? I like those, but they’re also some of the only crimpers around where you can damage things by over-crimping - so there’s a small chance of human error that creeps into the equation. Being someone who will be working for over 24 hours straight at times, I try to eliminate any chance of doing something dumb in a zombie-like state. 😂 This is why I stick with hex crimps.
@ANXIETYR69 күн бұрын
I have JP43 at half ohm and I have mechman 240amp alt I have main battery delete with JP40 but ima return it while idle 800rpm on 40ah JP40 from down4sound I drop to 11.8 what series should I run I’ll keep updates how it does
@ANXIETYR69 күн бұрын
What battery do I need I have mechman 240 no main battery battery delete and jp43 .5ohms I’ll give u updates
@ANXIETYR69 күн бұрын
I do have agm but alone is better and I need good battery JP40 LFP drops to 11.8 while truck running idle full tilt
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
A Series 2 I think would be absolutely perfect. Only need one.
@ANXIETYR69 күн бұрын
@@GloweIndustries fast response love it I’ll order now
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
@@ANXIETYR6if you use code, “5off” it’ll save you 5% off anything on the store even on top of sales cost.
@DIYAudioGuy11 күн бұрын
What is the resting voltage on those and the max charge voltage?
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
rest at about 13.3v, max charge is 14.8v.
@johnnypiper17178 күн бұрын
@@GloweIndustries So you can run the 120ah bank parallel with an xs power agm with out an isolator since the resting is pretty close? Trying to decide which glowe voltage I should go with to run parallel with my xs 100ah agm 370 alt and most likley can run 8k or 10k amp. Which series you think will work best
@davehimlin237414 күн бұрын
Also, if a lead acid battery, only charges a lithium battery up to 80% max capacity, this means a 200 AH lithium battery is only being charged to 160 AHS capacity. ..so for a 12 volt lithium battery, you are losing around 500 watt hrs of useable capacity.
@GloweIndustries7 күн бұрын
I don’t believe this to be true. I think a lead acid battery will charge a lifepo4 up to 100% soc being that they generally charged up to 14.6 to 14.8 - same as a lifepo4 charger.
@davehimlin237414 күн бұрын
Am I correct in assuming, that if the battery charger has a choice between charging a lead acid or gel battery, it would be better to choose the gel battery setting, to charge a lithium battery, because the gel battery setting will charge up to a slightly higher voltage then lead acid setting ?
@GloweIndustries7 күн бұрын
Higher voltage isn’t really a good thing in this situation. 14.4 is ideal. 14.8 is the max it should be set at. Anything over 13.8 will get the job done - it will just take longer doing it. Higher voltage = faster charge time due to more amperage being pushed.
@BadLabCustomz15 күн бұрын
Ours came out SEXYYYYY, thank you Seth!!! much appreciated!!!
@immrnoidall15 күн бұрын
Update on my powmr all in one .They now have one with an MPPT solar charge controller , it it says it can use lithium batteries now. It is an incredibly low price of $400. I believe it is a pure sine wave, 2000 watt continuous inverter.
@dylanhylton263617 күн бұрын
What's yalls turnaround time typically like shipping out batteries
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
We try to have all orders shipped within 5 business days.
@CL-yp1bs17 күн бұрын
How is the safety compared to these? I have seen some fires with certain LiFePO4 cells, but headway are generally pretty safe, i think because of the metal cylindrical can versus a LFP pouch cell... have you abused or punctured any of these to test?
@GloweIndustries17 күн бұрын
I’ve never seen a fire caused by lifepo4 due to thermal runaway. The fires I’ve seen were shorts or pulling too much current etc. lifepo4 doesn’t have cobalt like NMC. That said - these are also cylinders so they’re easier to use since compression/containment isn’t even an option.
@SlamryCamry1918 күн бұрын
Finally got them in I see looking good bro nice product
@EpicClipsEpic18 күн бұрын
Headways are 8.5ah?? Was that a mistake
@GloweIndustries18 күн бұрын
Yeah I got it mixed with lishen. Headways are only 8ah. Good catch.
@rigosamson264019 күн бұрын
Thank you for this video..😅😅
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
Not a problem - I was curious myself tbh.
@immrnoidall20 күн бұрын
For about 10 years I've been using an 8s, lifepo4 battery, [24v ], on a "lead acid only', 2000 watt "POWERJACK" UPS inverter that has an [up to] 80 amp charger. The charger has been on for at least 10 years, and those batteries are fine. So, I guess it's OK. It has aknob to select the lead acid battery you want and the GEL URO, setting is 28.8 charge volts and a 27.6 float charge volts. Like other chargers ,it throtles down towards the end of the charge Float won't come on unless low enough. The UPS, is in an old camper parked next to my house, with big fat extension cords I made, going to and from the house power. runs all lights,[ mostly LED ], computer/internet/cable,ruoter, WIFI, HW BASEBOARD furnace. When the storms knock out the power, I'm toasty warm watching you tube and making coffee on the gas stove. That cost a lot back then. People said, "don't do it ,don't do it". But it was hard to find a definite reason not to. I looked up specs, and voltages and learned all I could but never got consistent answers for, WHY NOT. The specs are exact as far as I could tell. So I Saved up some money and played Ebay roulette and sent $600 off to china. I won. Now these are cheap. So I bought the cheapest [About $300 now], Ebay, all in one 1500 watt, pure sine inverter/30 amp house charger/ 50A PWM Solar Controller, said to be made for " 24 volts lead acid Only" and the Ebay seller told me, "don't buy this if you are going to use lifepo4". . This thing is AWESOME. Every imaginable parameter is adjustable through WIFI app, on my phone. Every voltage is adjustable and you can turn the float charge off completely. Why on earth would they say ,"lead acid only" If you want one that says lithium, $500-700-1000. . It may not be MPPT, solar charge controller, but, at that size of solar, no big deal. I do have some nice MPPT charge controllers, if I really find I want MPPT. PMW controllers are low volt high amps, meaning you might need bigger gauge cables to solar. Where-as MPPT can run higher voltage and really low amps for a smaller and cheaper line to your solar. I'm buying as many as I can. My first one, a year and a half ago , was $239. I just got another and they are $309. The wifi module,was extra and a H U G E PAIN IN THE BUTT. Lots of different ones that look the same. I Bought 2 before getting the right one sent. For the price it is insane cool.
@scottbe122 күн бұрын
How do I go about tracking my order? I ordered some a couple days ago and I was curious on my status
@TheBoofGod20 күн бұрын
I ordered mines June 8th and still haven't received mines.
@scottbe120 күн бұрын
@@TheBoofGod I just got a notif this morning saying it was shipped. I would email them and ask
@TheBoofGod20 күн бұрын
@@scottbe1 I did
@TheBoofGod20 күн бұрын
@scottbe1 yeah I did. I received my 800a ones pretty quick though
@scottbe120 күн бұрын
@@TheBoofGod I hope mine get shipped soon. I have a show this weekend and being I’ve upgraded my amp I need bigger fuses since I’ve always ran smaller than rated for amp and wire. I ordered last week in hopes they would be here before this weekend but it’s not looking promising.
@deltab976823 күн бұрын
It’s hilarious (but annoying) that so many people didn’t believe the fuse itself would heat up at rated current without loose lugs etc. It’s like they’re in denial about how a damn fuse works.
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
Yeah.. folks on Facebook groups always like to blame the fuse holder..
@deltab976824 күн бұрын
When wiring a building, you typically want the wiring and fuse to both be 25% bigger than the continuous load. Or thinking the other way around, you only use a given type of wire for continuous loads up to 80% of its rating. For example if you have a boiler which draws 24A you can use 10AWG and a 30A breaker or fuse. But if you have a boiler that takes 26 amps that’s more than 80% of 30A so you should assemble it with #8 wire (rated 40A) and a 40A breaker.
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
I agree and that's what I recommend for folks. 400a of current? Use a 500a fuse and make sure your wiring is good for it.
@FJTabb24 күн бұрын
Running about 4000 watts to 1 sub with a factory 180amp alternator. Do you think the series 1 would be enough for a front battery delete and still be able to play my music?
@GloweIndustries7 күн бұрын
More than enough!
@arthurmink848125 күн бұрын
Nice job Really needed that info
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
Honestly I wanted this info, too. I heard so many different stories.
@bethalpha28 күн бұрын
I charged a sealed lead acid with a lithium charger and it ruined ITIT got really hot And this was a very expensive metal charger With a digital readout
@GloweIndustries28 күн бұрын
Lithium chargers generally mean LiPo charger which charges at a voltage that isn’t safe for lead acid. A lifepo4 charger will generally work to charge up a lead acid battery, though.
@surfernorm636029 күн бұрын
great content and I love your charger tools led current readouts. I only have a Fluke and its great for voltage but doesn't read current. oh nice infrared temp checker I have one but its not like yours . excellent!! Also excellent advice not leaving batteries unattended while charging is the best Info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@GloweIndustries7 күн бұрын
I only have a single fluke DMM, and it was expensive to the point where I’d almost rather not use it for day to day tasks, lol. Fluke is great stuff!
@elulysero886329 күн бұрын
So when you perform these test do you test them without a constant charge (alternator).
@GloweIndustries26 күн бұрын
Yes. This is battery only. Alternators can be all over the place so any power added from your alt is bonus power on top of these.
@elulysero886329 күн бұрын
So this s2 would be perfect for my kicker zx2500.1 I currently have a agm battery and a autotech 320a alternator. My electrical needs help.
@GloweIndustries26 күн бұрын
A Series 1 or series 2 would have you good to go!
@elulysero886326 күн бұрын
@@GloweIndustries i was looking into both of those. But i just don't have room for s1/s2 . Just may get the s3
@GloweIndustries26 күн бұрын
@@elulysero8863S3 are by far are most popular battery.. you’d have a lot of room for sure if you ever decided to upgrade.
@tomrlansing20Ай бұрын
Why does the monitor show direction arrow TOWARDS load FROM battery during charging i your video?
@GloweIndustries26 күн бұрын
Hah, this question made me look at other videos and my setup. If the red arrow is pointing LEFT, current is flowing TO the battery. If the red arrow is pointing RIGHT power is going to the load. In this video the red arrow is pointing left, indicating charging. That's also why the listed amp hours of the battery are going up as it is charged.
@shyneblue2290Ай бұрын
I was interested into a new battery..... with one of thus will i still need a 370a alternator or can the battery handle everything while running car...... for a 5k amp
@GloweIndustries7 күн бұрын
A series 2 will be more than enough with the car running for sure.
@shyneblue22907 күн бұрын
@@GloweIndustries I just seen a vid on the series one...... An I think I'll go with that one... Plus Glowe said to go with them if u running stock.... But OMG I'm excited like a kid waiting for Christmas......
@drpc98014Ай бұрын
what if you add a float charger running 24x7 to the mix?
@GloweIndustries7 күн бұрын
Float charging is going to hurt the lifespan of the lifepo4. Not likely to cause immediate damage, but over time it’s not ideal. Thats the biggest differences between lead acid and lifepo4. With lead acid it’s good to keep the voltage at 100% levels. Sitting idle a lead acid battery isn’t even likely to last 3-4 months before self discharge. Fully charge a lifepo4 and take it off the charger, though? A year from now it should still be over 80% capacity. No need to float charge.
@drpc98014Ай бұрын
I just got a 100 ah lfp battery for a ups install. I still have the old but still useable 200 ah sla battery. don't really need the added run time but thought I'd explore using both. thanks for the info.
@drpc98014Ай бұрын
Why don't you do a vid on ups conversion from sla to lfp? I'm digging out all my EE school books and working on a circuit that addresses over/under charge and discharge. would like to share my design with others and get their thoughts.
@TheMlfАй бұрын
Do you know if I'll have any issues installing this into a 2016 VW tiguan? I can't find any info on if it has a smart alternator or not , Im kind of new to car audio any help is appreciated
@GloweIndustriesАй бұрын
These can be used as a replacement batter for OEM or in conjunction with an OEM lead acid/agm battery and stock charging voltages on most vehicles. If you have heavily regulated charging levels that don't kick on until the car is mid 12s there are generally ways around that.
@Titoo.1Ай бұрын
Do you sell any in-house buss bars? Have a 48ah headway and used all the rows on it but I want to swap to a v3
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
Yes! We do sell bus bars now.
@coolme241Ай бұрын
Im running stock alt and series 1 with jp23 and two 4chs and im getting crazy voltage drop. Ill chnage the fuses to you guys one. But also i have a uni body car where would be the best place to run a ground cause rn i have them on bolt in the trunk.
@GloweIndustriesАй бұрын
Can you reach out to our fb page? Thats far from expected behavior and want to get it figured out. If it turns out to be something with the battery you’re definitely covered under warranty. Also, before we go any further down the rabbit hole.. I’ve come to learn from many, many hours of troubleshooting that JP knobs are not to be trusted!! Is that where you’re seeing voltage drop? If so, can you use a dmm at the terminals of the battery? This has been the biggest takeaway in multiple situations eerily similar to what you described. JP knob will show very poor voltage whereas testing the voltage with a diff meter and it’s barely dropping at all.
@JasonWW20009 күн бұрын
Yes, verify with a dmm. The built-in voltmeters on bass knobs are not built to be super accurate. I think JP put an adjustment screw on the back of the bass knob so that you could adjust the voltage to what it is at the battery.
@Hertzsogood219Ай бұрын
Thank you for the video. I just bought 74ah of Lev60 and searching for info on how to charge it ive found nothing but conflicting information. Half says you can use a lead acid charger and the other half says you can't or you will damage your battery bank. Im going with the info in this video. I planned to keep an eye on it while its charging. Thanks again. 👍
@Hertzsogood2197 күн бұрын
Charged the bank with an ole school 20amp charger. So far it's working out great. I'm not even using a balancer. Voltage of all 4 cells has stayed the same.
@Chava1990Ай бұрын
Could I run a v1 and a v3 together one under the hood and one under the seat
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
We don't recommend installing these under the hood unless it's in a separated compartment. With a V4 it's probably not going to matter tooo much, but it can still get pretty hot under a hood.
@michaelkulman7095Ай бұрын
Any advantage in using a "smart" charger over a "dumb" charger? I have both but no lithium specific chargers... Will the "smart" charger be safer if you leave a charger on longer than you should? By a few hours? That seems like the main advantage to me, that ratcheting down to float mode that they have, or most have so as not to fry battery...yes you say dont leave it that way for long but if Im not babysitting it the float for a few hours seems safer than an old style charger... Okay...so should I have an amp meter and take it off when amperage gets really low like you did or should I go by voltage or both? If battery notifies of "full charge" as a function of the charger, can I just trust that and disconnect at that point? I assume I can use a Multimeter to check volts and amps as opposed to your fancy device, right?
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
Not too much of an advantage other than one will turn itself off when it's done. We don't recommend leaving charging batteries unattended, but the smart charger is the safer of the options if doing so.
@1-Six-deeАй бұрын
I got a 68k watt capable build. I am looking into changing from cmax this year to something else to save some space. How many of your batteries would it take with 500-700 amps of input, on demos I am running more around 20-25k
@chrispeters1020Ай бұрын
When will the series 1 and 2 be back in stock?
@GloweIndustries9 күн бұрын
Both are in stock now.
@chrispeters10209 күн бұрын
@@GloweIndustries damn, wish I'd waited just a little bit longer. I just ended up buying an XS Power battery like a week ago.
@markguerrero5915Ай бұрын
Is there a battery case I can buy for it off your site or Amazon?
@jasonatkinson6337Ай бұрын
Thanks!
@GloweIndustries26 күн бұрын
Thank you sir! Appreciated!
@SoberBassHeadАй бұрын
What’s the price for the kit?
@TabascoriderАй бұрын
its on the website
@GloweIndustriesАй бұрын
$250 out the door. Includes busing, balancer, and the epoxy plates for cell separation.
@BenMitroАй бұрын
I've setup two 100AH AGM with a 75AH LiFePO4 all in parallel. Its only been setup now for a couple of months but are doing very well. Runs a water pump.
@GloweIndustriesАй бұрын
Should last you a long time to come. The lifepo4 holding the bank at a higher voltage is similar to float charging the lead acid batteries which drastically extends their lifespan.
Пікірлер
I want to understand the charging curve, please if you can explain there is sudden change in charging current and voltage is going up.why there is no absorption stage then float ?
This is an interesting topic.. Do you know how when you apply a load to a battery you’ll see a certain amount of voltage drop, and after you stop the load the voltage hops back up? Thats similar to how charging works but inverse. They hold steady while being charged until fully charged, and at that point the voltage will rapidly spike upwards to the charging voltage.
Does lithium batteries don't need tapering current or absorption voltage
CC CV charging is recommended. That basically means constant current (say 10a) until the prescribed voltage will no longer cause 10a of current to flow. At that point, the voltage is held at the max value and as the voltage of the battery increases the amount of current slows down. Ohms law says the amount of amps flowing = voltage (or diff in voltage) divided by resistance = max amperage that will flow from the higher voltage source to the lower.
Im an Engineer, but for some folks thinking that a zero wire connection could be the bottle neck of that tiny strip of metal in the fuse, is ridiculous.
Do not give up your day job, worst prep and termination work I have ever seen. You would be sacked on the spot. The tool may get a pass??
What are the epoxy plates for?
To separate the cells so that over the curse of years vibration doesn’t cause the wraps to wear away and force the metal underneath to touch on opposing cells. This is ground to ground and would cause a short.
I dont hate it for at home stuff like wiring a boat battery, but professionally, no. Ive seen sites stripped apart for incorrect dies/crimps
Link?
Will it do 4/0?
@@jlwz71 yep! Quite a bit larger, too. Included dies go to up to 350 mcm. (1/0 -> 4/0 -> 300 MCM -> 350 MCM)
it looks like i need a way to better control the float aspect of the charging circuits on my ups units. would putting a blocking diode in between the battery and ups to allow current to flow when in inverter mode, then a diode/relay or ? to switch off to block float charging ?
@@drpc98014 do you have a BMS? If so you can configure it to cut off charging at like 14.6v, and not turn it back on until 13.25 or so. This will disable charging when the battery is full, give the battery room to drop to normal resting voltage (about 13.3 - 13.35) and not turn back on until either a load is applied (it will quickly drop to under 13.3v with even a small load) or it has sat idle so long the voltage has begun to dip.
@@GloweIndustries Yes the lfp batteries I have contain a bms but with cheap batteries I don't trust them. The batteries I have are a 16 amp/hr miady and a 100 amp/hr mjbsan both sold on Amazon
Thanks for this! That's fackin badass!
I love it.
Dude I’m so freekin tempted, I’d never bought one because of the cost, a decent hydraulic crimp is at last $100-$150, why not buy this one!!!
I wanted to make sure I’d crimped at least 1k lugs before I gave a recommendation, and recently shot well beyond that. HIGHLY recommend. Can’t emphasize that enough!
@@GloweIndustries yea that was a badass buy for real, I have a nice set of TEMCo but they only press one side of the lug in the Chuck I’m going to press a couple when I get a chance and cut them in half to have a look I’m curious now
@@BadLabCustomz the Temco with the kinda spiked universal press? I like those, but they’re also some of the only crimpers around where you can damage things by over-crimping - so there’s a small chance of human error that creeps into the equation. Being someone who will be working for over 24 hours straight at times, I try to eliminate any chance of doing something dumb in a zombie-like state. 😂 This is why I stick with hex crimps.
I have JP43 at half ohm and I have mechman 240amp alt I have main battery delete with JP40 but ima return it while idle 800rpm on 40ah JP40 from down4sound I drop to 11.8 what series should I run I’ll keep updates how it does
What battery do I need I have mechman 240 no main battery battery delete and jp43 .5ohms I’ll give u updates
I do have agm but alone is better and I need good battery JP40 LFP drops to 11.8 while truck running idle full tilt
A Series 2 I think would be absolutely perfect. Only need one.
@@GloweIndustries fast response love it I’ll order now
@@ANXIETYR6if you use code, “5off” it’ll save you 5% off anything on the store even on top of sales cost.
What is the resting voltage on those and the max charge voltage?
rest at about 13.3v, max charge is 14.8v.
@@GloweIndustries So you can run the 120ah bank parallel with an xs power agm with out an isolator since the resting is pretty close? Trying to decide which glowe voltage I should go with to run parallel with my xs 100ah agm 370 alt and most likley can run 8k or 10k amp. Which series you think will work best
Also, if a lead acid battery, only charges a lithium battery up to 80% max capacity, this means a 200 AH lithium battery is only being charged to 160 AHS capacity. ..so for a 12 volt lithium battery, you are losing around 500 watt hrs of useable capacity.
I don’t believe this to be true. I think a lead acid battery will charge a lifepo4 up to 100% soc being that they generally charged up to 14.6 to 14.8 - same as a lifepo4 charger.
Am I correct in assuming, that if the battery charger has a choice between charging a lead acid or gel battery, it would be better to choose the gel battery setting, to charge a lithium battery, because the gel battery setting will charge up to a slightly higher voltage then lead acid setting ?
Higher voltage isn’t really a good thing in this situation. 14.4 is ideal. 14.8 is the max it should be set at. Anything over 13.8 will get the job done - it will just take longer doing it. Higher voltage = faster charge time due to more amperage being pushed.
Ours came out SEXYYYYY, thank you Seth!!! much appreciated!!!
Update on my powmr all in one .They now have one with an MPPT solar charge controller , it it says it can use lithium batteries now. It is an incredibly low price of $400. I believe it is a pure sine wave, 2000 watt continuous inverter.
What's yalls turnaround time typically like shipping out batteries
We try to have all orders shipped within 5 business days.
How is the safety compared to these? I have seen some fires with certain LiFePO4 cells, but headway are generally pretty safe, i think because of the metal cylindrical can versus a LFP pouch cell... have you abused or punctured any of these to test?
I’ve never seen a fire caused by lifepo4 due to thermal runaway. The fires I’ve seen were shorts or pulling too much current etc. lifepo4 doesn’t have cobalt like NMC. That said - these are also cylinders so they’re easier to use since compression/containment isn’t even an option.
Finally got them in I see looking good bro nice product
Headways are 8.5ah?? Was that a mistake
Yeah I got it mixed with lishen. Headways are only 8ah. Good catch.
Thank you for this video..😅😅
Not a problem - I was curious myself tbh.
For about 10 years I've been using an 8s, lifepo4 battery, [24v ], on a "lead acid only', 2000 watt "POWERJACK" UPS inverter that has an [up to] 80 amp charger. The charger has been on for at least 10 years, and those batteries are fine. So, I guess it's OK. It has aknob to select the lead acid battery you want and the GEL URO, setting is 28.8 charge volts and a 27.6 float charge volts. Like other chargers ,it throtles down towards the end of the charge Float won't come on unless low enough. The UPS, is in an old camper parked next to my house, with big fat extension cords I made, going to and from the house power. runs all lights,[ mostly LED ], computer/internet/cable,ruoter, WIFI, HW BASEBOARD furnace. When the storms knock out the power, I'm toasty warm watching you tube and making coffee on the gas stove. That cost a lot back then. People said, "don't do it ,don't do it". But it was hard to find a definite reason not to. I looked up specs, and voltages and learned all I could but never got consistent answers for, WHY NOT. The specs are exact as far as I could tell. So I Saved up some money and played Ebay roulette and sent $600 off to china. I won. Now these are cheap. So I bought the cheapest [About $300 now], Ebay, all in one 1500 watt, pure sine inverter/30 amp house charger/ 50A PWM Solar Controller, said to be made for " 24 volts lead acid Only" and the Ebay seller told me, "don't buy this if you are going to use lifepo4". . This thing is AWESOME. Every imaginable parameter is adjustable through WIFI app, on my phone. Every voltage is adjustable and you can turn the float charge off completely. Why on earth would they say ,"lead acid only" If you want one that says lithium, $500-700-1000. . It may not be MPPT, solar charge controller, but, at that size of solar, no big deal. I do have some nice MPPT charge controllers, if I really find I want MPPT. PMW controllers are low volt high amps, meaning you might need bigger gauge cables to solar. Where-as MPPT can run higher voltage and really low amps for a smaller and cheaper line to your solar. I'm buying as many as I can. My first one, a year and a half ago , was $239. I just got another and they are $309. The wifi module,was extra and a H U G E PAIN IN THE BUTT. Lots of different ones that look the same. I Bought 2 before getting the right one sent. For the price it is insane cool.
How do I go about tracking my order? I ordered some a couple days ago and I was curious on my status
I ordered mines June 8th and still haven't received mines.
@@TheBoofGod I just got a notif this morning saying it was shipped. I would email them and ask
@@scottbe1 I did
@scottbe1 yeah I did. I received my 800a ones pretty quick though
@@TheBoofGod I hope mine get shipped soon. I have a show this weekend and being I’ve upgraded my amp I need bigger fuses since I’ve always ran smaller than rated for amp and wire. I ordered last week in hopes they would be here before this weekend but it’s not looking promising.
It’s hilarious (but annoying) that so many people didn’t believe the fuse itself would heat up at rated current without loose lugs etc. It’s like they’re in denial about how a damn fuse works.
Yeah.. folks on Facebook groups always like to blame the fuse holder..
When wiring a building, you typically want the wiring and fuse to both be 25% bigger than the continuous load. Or thinking the other way around, you only use a given type of wire for continuous loads up to 80% of its rating. For example if you have a boiler which draws 24A you can use 10AWG and a 30A breaker or fuse. But if you have a boiler that takes 26 amps that’s more than 80% of 30A so you should assemble it with #8 wire (rated 40A) and a 40A breaker.
I agree and that's what I recommend for folks. 400a of current? Use a 500a fuse and make sure your wiring is good for it.
Running about 4000 watts to 1 sub with a factory 180amp alternator. Do you think the series 1 would be enough for a front battery delete and still be able to play my music?
More than enough!
Nice job Really needed that info
Honestly I wanted this info, too. I heard so many different stories.
I charged a sealed lead acid with a lithium charger and it ruined ITIT got really hot And this was a very expensive metal charger With a digital readout
Lithium chargers generally mean LiPo charger which charges at a voltage that isn’t safe for lead acid. A lifepo4 charger will generally work to charge up a lead acid battery, though.
great content and I love your charger tools led current readouts. I only have a Fluke and its great for voltage but doesn't read current. oh nice infrared temp checker I have one but its not like yours . excellent!! Also excellent advice not leaving batteries unattended while charging is the best Info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I only have a single fluke DMM, and it was expensive to the point where I’d almost rather not use it for day to day tasks, lol. Fluke is great stuff!
So when you perform these test do you test them without a constant charge (alternator).
Yes. This is battery only. Alternators can be all over the place so any power added from your alt is bonus power on top of these.
So this s2 would be perfect for my kicker zx2500.1 I currently have a agm battery and a autotech 320a alternator. My electrical needs help.
A Series 1 or series 2 would have you good to go!
@@GloweIndustries i was looking into both of those. But i just don't have room for s1/s2 . Just may get the s3
@@elulysero8863S3 are by far are most popular battery.. you’d have a lot of room for sure if you ever decided to upgrade.
Why does the monitor show direction arrow TOWARDS load FROM battery during charging i your video?
Hah, this question made me look at other videos and my setup. If the red arrow is pointing LEFT, current is flowing TO the battery. If the red arrow is pointing RIGHT power is going to the load. In this video the red arrow is pointing left, indicating charging. That's also why the listed amp hours of the battery are going up as it is charged.
I was interested into a new battery..... with one of thus will i still need a 370a alternator or can the battery handle everything while running car...... for a 5k amp
A series 2 will be more than enough with the car running for sure.
@@GloweIndustries I just seen a vid on the series one...... An I think I'll go with that one... Plus Glowe said to go with them if u running stock.... But OMG I'm excited like a kid waiting for Christmas......
what if you add a float charger running 24x7 to the mix?
Float charging is going to hurt the lifespan of the lifepo4. Not likely to cause immediate damage, but over time it’s not ideal. Thats the biggest differences between lead acid and lifepo4. With lead acid it’s good to keep the voltage at 100% levels. Sitting idle a lead acid battery isn’t even likely to last 3-4 months before self discharge. Fully charge a lifepo4 and take it off the charger, though? A year from now it should still be over 80% capacity. No need to float charge.
I just got a 100 ah lfp battery for a ups install. I still have the old but still useable 200 ah sla battery. don't really need the added run time but thought I'd explore using both. thanks for the info.
Why don't you do a vid on ups conversion from sla to lfp? I'm digging out all my EE school books and working on a circuit that addresses over/under charge and discharge. would like to share my design with others and get their thoughts.
Do you know if I'll have any issues installing this into a 2016 VW tiguan? I can't find any info on if it has a smart alternator or not , Im kind of new to car audio any help is appreciated
These can be used as a replacement batter for OEM or in conjunction with an OEM lead acid/agm battery and stock charging voltages on most vehicles. If you have heavily regulated charging levels that don't kick on until the car is mid 12s there are generally ways around that.
Do you sell any in-house buss bars? Have a 48ah headway and used all the rows on it but I want to swap to a v3
Yes! We do sell bus bars now.
Im running stock alt and series 1 with jp23 and two 4chs and im getting crazy voltage drop. Ill chnage the fuses to you guys one. But also i have a uni body car where would be the best place to run a ground cause rn i have them on bolt in the trunk.
Can you reach out to our fb page? Thats far from expected behavior and want to get it figured out. If it turns out to be something with the battery you’re definitely covered under warranty. Also, before we go any further down the rabbit hole.. I’ve come to learn from many, many hours of troubleshooting that JP knobs are not to be trusted!! Is that where you’re seeing voltage drop? If so, can you use a dmm at the terminals of the battery? This has been the biggest takeaway in multiple situations eerily similar to what you described. JP knob will show very poor voltage whereas testing the voltage with a diff meter and it’s barely dropping at all.
Yes, verify with a dmm. The built-in voltmeters on bass knobs are not built to be super accurate. I think JP put an adjustment screw on the back of the bass knob so that you could adjust the voltage to what it is at the battery.
Thank you for the video. I just bought 74ah of Lev60 and searching for info on how to charge it ive found nothing but conflicting information. Half says you can use a lead acid charger and the other half says you can't or you will damage your battery bank. Im going with the info in this video. I planned to keep an eye on it while its charging. Thanks again. 👍
Charged the bank with an ole school 20amp charger. So far it's working out great. I'm not even using a balancer. Voltage of all 4 cells has stayed the same.
Could I run a v1 and a v3 together one under the hood and one under the seat
We don't recommend installing these under the hood unless it's in a separated compartment. With a V4 it's probably not going to matter tooo much, but it can still get pretty hot under a hood.
Any advantage in using a "smart" charger over a "dumb" charger? I have both but no lithium specific chargers... Will the "smart" charger be safer if you leave a charger on longer than you should? By a few hours? That seems like the main advantage to me, that ratcheting down to float mode that they have, or most have so as not to fry battery...yes you say dont leave it that way for long but if Im not babysitting it the float for a few hours seems safer than an old style charger... Okay...so should I have an amp meter and take it off when amperage gets really low like you did or should I go by voltage or both? If battery notifies of "full charge" as a function of the charger, can I just trust that and disconnect at that point? I assume I can use a Multimeter to check volts and amps as opposed to your fancy device, right?
Not too much of an advantage other than one will turn itself off when it's done. We don't recommend leaving charging batteries unattended, but the smart charger is the safer of the options if doing so.
I got a 68k watt capable build. I am looking into changing from cmax this year to something else to save some space. How many of your batteries would it take with 500-700 amps of input, on demos I am running more around 20-25k
When will the series 1 and 2 be back in stock?
Both are in stock now.
@@GloweIndustries damn, wish I'd waited just a little bit longer. I just ended up buying an XS Power battery like a week ago.
Is there a battery case I can buy for it off your site or Amazon?
Thanks!
Thank you sir! Appreciated!
What’s the price for the kit?
its on the website
$250 out the door. Includes busing, balancer, and the epoxy plates for cell separation.
I've setup two 100AH AGM with a 75AH LiFePO4 all in parallel. Its only been setup now for a couple of months but are doing very well. Runs a water pump.
Should last you a long time to come. The lifepo4 holding the bank at a higher voltage is similar to float charging the lead acid batteries which drastically extends their lifespan.