Ours came out SEXYYYYY, thank you Seth!!! much appreciated!!!

Finally got them in I see looking good bro nice product

I have JP43 at half ohm and I have mechman 240amp alt I have main battery delete with JP40 but ima return it while idle 800rpm on 40ah JP40 from down4sound I drop to 11.8 what series should I run I’ll keep updates how it does

@GloweIndustries

13 күн бұрын

Did you snag a S2??

What is the resting voltage on those and the max charge voltage?

@GloweIndustries

25 күн бұрын

rest at about 13.3v, max charge is 14.8v.

@johnnypiper1717

23 күн бұрын

​@@GloweIndustries So you can run the 120ah bank parallel with an xs power agm with out an isolator since the resting is pretty close? Trying to decide which glowe voltage I should go with to run parallel with my xs 100ah agm 370 alt and most likley can run 8k or 10k amp. Which series you think will work best

How is the safety compared to these? I have seen some fires with certain LiFePO4 cells, but headway are generally pretty safe, i think because of the metal cylindrical can versus a LFP pouch cell... have you abused or punctured any of these to test?

@GloweIndustries

Ай бұрын

I’ve never seen a fire caused by lifepo4 due to thermal runaway. The fires I’ve seen were shorts or pulling too much current etc. lifepo4 doesn’t have cobalt like NMC. That said - these are also cylinders so they’re easier to use since compression/containment isn’t even an option.

Ok, here's a different use case that i'm interested in, since I'm sick of my lead acid batteries dying so soon on my 08' F250 that I don't drive as much anymore. What if I used a 500A Daily BMS (unless you know of a better option?) to build a couple of batteries using those cells and maybe Jehu's 64AH PCB busbar? See any issues outside of maybe poor cold weather performance and the stock alternator not having any sort of lithium charge profile? Also, would you do these or larger prismatic cells for something like this?

@GloweIndustries

11 күн бұрын

I’d recommend a Jk BMS, or even a JBD before Daly. And you should be ok getting a 250a BMS. They allow for bursting higher than that (for a short time you’re able to configure in the app). I ran a BMS initially with all of my lifepo4 batteries.. it’s not too bad if you’re not doing things like car audio. Also, these are pretty solid in the cold and shouldn’t be an issue. 💯

@ericjansen9042

11 күн бұрын

@@GloweIndustries Now I just need a clear case in a Group 65 configuration. :) Also, do you actually know of anyone doing anything like this for vehicle start applications?

@GloweIndustries

11 күн бұрын

@@ericjansen9042 I do actually. Someone local to me in Oklahoma City has a hellcat that he drives maybe once every 4-6 weeks and he has one. We also use a BMS in a lot of the batteries aimed at our LED customers who may go to an indoor show and want to power their lights all day without risking their battery dropping to unacceptable levels.

@ericklein5097

11 күн бұрын

Every single person I've seen on KZread or any forums that has done an under the hood LiFePO4 battery has seen 50% capacity degradation in a year. The under the hood temps are just too much, they go well past 60 Celsius and that's where things get REALLY BAD for all lithium cells. If you put the battery in the cab of the truck then you only have to worry about charging under 10 Celsius. Your alternator is going to dump a lot of amperage into a LiFePO4 battery and nearly every cell on the market will have limits for charging below a certain temp. Under 10 or 15 Celsius you cannot dump alternator levels of current into a battery without doing some damage. Once you hit 0 Celsius you CANNOT charge over 0.2C without doing damage and below -10 Celsius (14 Fahrenheit) you really shouldn't do any charging but it can take 0.1C or less if you absolutely must charge. Seeing as you have no real control over the current your alternator is putting out (there are ways to control it but they get pricey) you have to install a DIY heater in the battery if your area sees ANY temps under 10 Celsius....which is going to be everywhere but Phoenix pretty much. A 15W/20W/25W silicone heating pad on Amazon is under $20 for a pack of 3 or 4 (you only really need one of them or maybe two if you are impatient) and a temperature controller is a few bucks. You probably wouldn't want to have the heater run any time the temps are low because it would just drain the battery on cold nights so if you bought a cheap relay module with a remote you could turn the heater on from inside your house ~10 minutes before leaving, let the heater draw 3-4 watt hours out of the battery to get the cells up to a decent temp and then start your truck. Remember once you start your truck you are slamming the cells with a shit ton of current if they are under 80% state of charge...significantly more if they are under 30%/40% state of charge. So if you don't preheat the battery before getting in the truck and the battery has had some small parasitic loads (like any vehicle) on it for a couple weeks then you could see the battery getting hit with 70A or more. Do that regularly and your battery will be useless within a couple years at most. Once you start to really see capacity degradation on cells hit the 10%-15% mark the DC internal resistance is going to start climbing through the roof and DC IR directly correlates to how many amps can be pulled on something like an engine start....and this level of capacity degradation is easily achievable by charging LiFePO4 in cold weather. It's a billion times cheaper to make a preheating system then to try to get away with starting the truck willy nilly no matter the temp. www.amazon.com/WOODGUILIN-Control-Wireless-Industrial-Security/dp/B09QGGZBMW/ref=ci_mcx_mr_mp_m_d_sccl_3_5/143-3961036-7108317?pd_rd_w=AzXlQ&content-id=amzn1.sym.904f4c18-630f-4c52-8bdf-78921242d9bd%3Aamzn1.symc.27c848cf-47ab-487b-bd07-91bc659e0119&pf_rd_p=904f4c18-630f-4c52-8bdf-78921242d9bd&pf_rd_r=XAA2W2GZKZJCB2DKM5C0&pd_rd_wg=FGgDa&pd_rd_r=0a5226e5-1301-4d9a-8500-1d79ad3c69c3&pd_rd_i=B09QGGZBMW&th=1 This relay module has 20 working modes which allow you to turn on the heater for X minutes or hours and then it automatically shuts off. This would be glorious because you never have to remember to turn off the heater. DO NOT BUY A DALY BMS. GARBAGE. There are other cheap non Bluetooth BMS's meant for engine starts out there starting at $40'ish. What you're looking for is something that has LARGE Copper bars running down each side of the board so the mosfets have a huge path for the current to flow down which lowers the resistance. Or buy a BMS that has a contactor/relay of the proper size but those are significantly more expensive. The JBD contactor/relay BMS's are all over $100 I think. Definitely more reliable but starting an engine is a short enough burst that it should be easy for the mosfet based BMS to handle that.

@GloweIndustries

11 күн бұрын

@@ericklein5097 sir.. I find your assumption of not being able to charge in the cold weather disturbing. It’s not 2012 anymore. We take cells rated clear down to -40c discharge and -30c charging. (And yes, they’re lifepo4). Not using these under the hood? That’s sound advice. Some folks do… but I especially would not sit it next to a large V8.. The ones who do? Haven’t had any issues and it’s been years - but they also know not to expect to get a solid 10 years out of it if they abuse them. They won’t blow up or catch fire (like NMC) they just won’t last as long and may decide one day to vent all of their goodies all over the place.

Headways are 8.5ah?? Was that a mistake

@GloweIndustries

Ай бұрын

Yeah I got it mixed with lishen. Headways are only 8ah. Good catch.