This is my workshop and on this channel I will be covering all the projects I am currently working on, it will include retro computers, 3d printing, Arduino and all sorts of electronics and programming.
If you want to help me with any of my projects I have setup
www.patreon.com/m/leesmithsworkshop
www.paypal.com/paypalme2/leelegionsmith,
ko-fi.com/leelegionsmith
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wow!
Very nice
Is there a command that can grab a sprite from the screen and turn it into a hardware sprite?
Hi, did u have a Tutorial how u build this or can u make a Part List ? For a Small Donation maybe ? :D Best Regards
Maybe you can help me.. Im considering this unit but the tips are very pricey and not readily available. I need to solder heavy gauge wires as well as your average little 10ohm resistors etc. is there a station that can cover both tasks? Or do I just need to grab a cheap-ish 80-100w soldering iron with chisel tips and a little 30+ watt precision iron? My eyes hurt from searching online for so long lol so any help would be greatly appreciated!
Gives me flashbacks to the Apple ][c
what is the name of this hot end you are using?
Fantastic thanks
nice dear
good
Might try this with bbc micro keyboard
Ive done my frame and im going to print the v2.4 gantry and try to make my extrusions the right size
Great job.
Have you ever thought about getting in talks with Albert over at AtariAge to see if you can get this mass manufactured? This is GLORIOUS, and an excellent alternative to the OG controller!
I like how you went step by step through the troubleshooting process. Very informative and well done. I bought a MSX National CF1200 and fortunately it's working but I saw two empty 4416 ram places on the board so I thought I could upgrade the ram to 32k. However, after installing sockets and the additional ram chips the screen was just black (it still works when removed). I don't know if anyone has experience on here upgrading ram on these machines. I searched the internet but couldn't find any information. Thanks
you should ask on the MSX forums, discord or FB pages. I can't help with that.
ciao, complimenti per il tuo progetto :) puoi fare una guida dove specifichi tutto mi piacerebbe copiare il tuo progetto? grazie
Hello, is it okay for you to share the .step file?
Not Sure if I left a Comment Before. This is Freaking w!zaRd!
Hi. You have inspired my. I am doing a corexy conversion. I got a cheap brand new one in the black Friday sale 2022 for ridiculous price and been using to print r2. Nearly finished printing so bought another second hand chiron cheap to make my corexy. Could you send me the stls for your brackets for the bed I.e the voron ones you said you modified to take 10mm bearings? Thanks and if you don't mind I may have more questions as I proceed.
Also. Where did you get the silver brackets from that fit into the 20 20 extrusion at the top that hold in place the top of the 10mm guide rails. Thanks
What about edge connector? Ula+ ulax vdac2 spectra and interlaced?
the pico and esp are not powerful enough and don't have any spare ram or IO.
@@leesmithsworkshop 4mhz is good but 8mhz is better and even better would be video ram at double the processor speed
I just ordered my second PCB from Rumble so I can build one for a friend. I'm lucky that he lives just a few miles away. The PCB is just like the ones we made in the mid 1980s, all green and through hole. Beautiful!
Hi to all ZX Spectrum fans
I have been working with ESP32's as a retro dos machine emulator (8086 based, 286 12mhz so far.)... Running into similar problems with audio, can you please share any updates. Please and thank you very much!
would love to see a printed parts list for this guy! Im looking at doing something like this for my kobra max but its feeling a little obtuse
WD-40 is not a lubricant! It stands for "Water Displacement formula 40". It was developed for waterproofing the wiring in Atlas Missiles in the 1960's. It has a volatile solvent to make it fluid and penetrating, but the other part is a waterproof polymerizing resin that penetrates along with the solvent then HARDENS creating a durable waterproof barrier. And also when it hardens it glues together all the shafts and bearings and rollers that you have sprayed it into. Many people have totally ruined precision instruments like micrometers and sliding and roller bearings by using it as a lubricant, only to find weeks later that everything is frozen and has to be pressed or hammered apart. It is not a lubricant. Get some fine instrument oil to lubricant. Use acetone or other solvent for cleaning. I ruined some micrometers myself before I figured it out.
are you taking about the stuff I used to clean the rails ?
if you look at the video and listen you will see I am using WD40 branded degreaser to clean the rails, not WD40 as you so eagerly pointed out trying to be all clever you big turd. WD-40 Specialist Degreaser is a solvent-based, spray degreaser that quickly removes stubborn soiling such as oil, grease, dirt, and grime without leaving any residue. Simply spray on the clear formula before wiping or rinsing away for a clean finish. For heavy soiling leave for a few seconds to penetrate through the dirt before wiping clean. It’s perfect for a range of applications, from cleaning alloy wheels and tyre rims to degreasing engine components. As well as cleaning, WD-40 Specialist Degreaser will also reduce wear and tear on your components, keeping them clean and running smoothly for longer.
@@leesmithsworkshop My Mistake. I did jump to the conclusion that it was regular WD-40. I did not know WD-40 brand made a purpose degreaser. I have seen so many people on KZread and elsewhere use regular WD-40 spray as a cleaner/lubricant. Including Adam Savage. (If I remember Correctly) So, I apologize for jumping to the conclusion, I was just trying to be helpful.
Looks cool but the design of it has absolutely broke my brain. Looks like its 4 seperate sections.
watch his video and it actually has one side, he followed it with a marker and just imagine making it on a manual cnc from a single block of metal.
Very impressive!! I grew up with a C64 and had always wanted to return to it. In some ways the more restrained environment of C64 helped me focus on programming more. For example when I was watching someone play a modern game, there is so much that goes into background and details that aren't related to the game mechanics, it seems there is more programming not related to game play than there is. With the C64, it is more about the game play than looks. Very cool, keep it up.
Brilliant. I want to convert my chiron as got it new for really cheap before discontinued. When I've finished printing last few big parts for my r2 you've inspired me to do the chiron convert. First question. How many stepper motors you using. X y and z. I like the 4 lead screws on the z idea.
HI, I am using 4 on the Z for the gantry tramming and then 2 on the AB motors.
@@leesmithsworkshop does that need a special brain / motherboard then. And does klipper support that fine
@@bluenose701 it needs enough stepper drivers at least 7 and that is why I used the leviathan board, you could also use a BTT octopus or Kracken.
are those tips magnetic?
what makes it impossible to make the ZX_Spectrum memory much larger than 128kb? iron is more powerful today than it was 40 years ago. if hardware makes it possible, then why not improve the graphics of the ZX_Spectrum? The games could be more beautiful.
The amount of available memory is not relevant to the graphics quality. The Spectrum had a very ‘clever’ (read ‘budget friendly’) method of displaying graphics. The pixel bitmap and the colour attributes are stored in different areas of memory, with only one foreground and one background colour per 8x8 pixel character (leading to the Spectrum’s famous ‘attribute clash’ effect). Changing how it works, to take advantage of more memory is not feasible (at least, not worthwhile) because it would break all original Spectrum software. More memory would only allow for larger programs, not better quality graphics.
Rings crashes for me in the Spectrum windows emulator. Don’t lose sleep over one game.
Crt required. Thanks for the video.
great video lee ,love the look of it ,have got the files off you ,thanks for all your time to make a STL .
great video lee thanks for all you heard work m8
What are the dimensions of the upper right corner where I can fit in a PC? Asking since I've been debating a mini PC that is 6 by 6 by 2 inches but am wondering if it will fit. Reason being is that I wanna use it to boot into Windows 10 for Exodos, and Linux for emulating Amiga with FS-UAE and all other similar computers like Mac, Atari ST.
Oh, Peter Oliphant, I think he died recently.
You printed that faster than I squared the stock for it! 😂
it was quite easy to print with only a small amount of supports needed. It's such a cool object to have on a desk, perhaps you could make a magnetic base and make yours levitate !
You may want to consider implementing QBL by Phil1988 rather than mainline QGL - as QBL is more specific to beds and gives you both more control and accurate results.
How do I find this ?
Kai Ron. :) Everyone pronounces it a million different ways buts it’s named after the Greek god Apollos son :)
On the Pi Pico you can use the USB port for a keyboard or a gamepad. But can you use it with a hub to plug a keyboard and a pad in at the same time?
the software does support both in the menu so I would say yes.
Super awesome. I converted my Chiron to a Chironwire. ... Good effort on the swap. Maybe a future project. Picked up a cheap Kobra max recently... Maybe I'll do a max big boi lol
I had a look at the Chironwire and it's an interesting mod. The Kobra max would be a great machine to convert, I think I would rotate the bed so it's 400x450 keeping the gantry as short as possible.
Are you running a single MGN9 rail or MGN12 for the x axis? I'm trying to find a MGN12 mod for the 1.8 but I'm not having any luck.
MGN12 rail for the stealthburner and tap.
I am confused as to how it is making those motor sounds as it has silent drivers, it reminds me of my Mendel 90.
I turn off stealthchop because it limits performance.
I've thought about converting a few printers to "Vorons" but the only things worth saving are maybe the beds. Then it only really makes sense for these huge bed slingers. This one's neat. I think having a "spec" voron or ratrig really only matters to social media clout chasers and their followers.
using the larger beds and heaters does save a load of money on these projects, but it also takes away using the advantages of the flatter thick cast plates, rapid heating and higher temps.
Frankenprinter!
I could call it "spectre" one of the Monsters names.
Thats a chonky boi printer! I never understood how you'd go about making the printer itself bigger and it being understood by the firmware on the board. is it just newer settings you feed in? Was the leviathan board just a beefier driver board for the additional 2 lead screw motors?
It's just values in the firmware and with klipper you can change values in real time, reboot and see if that worked. so very easy to setup a custom size printer. As for the Leviathan it has 2 drivers for high voltage A B motors and then 5 drivers for Z or extruder motors. It was made to work with the Voron 2.4 that has also had 4 Z steppers and that is why I chose it.
It's all new firmware anyway, Chiron ran Marlin, this is Klipper. Klipper is a two-piece firmware, where the planner is running on a PC or a Linux SBC like a Pi and you connect controller boards responsible for sensor readings and stepping, which it can control via processor/board specific firmwares. If you were to stay with Marlin, you get comfortable with development environment (PlatformIO or in a pinch Arduino IDE) and modifying and building firmware from source and flashing it onto your board. Then you go into Configuration h in the source code of the firmware and change your values, and you can change any number of things and behaviours, and you also need this say if you're adding/removing ABL or any of the hardware features. You can build a configuration from scratch, you can start from example ones supplied by Marlin in a separate repository, which cover about 350 different printers. Some other firmwares like RRF (the Duet one) are reconfigured from G-code files that get executed on startup. Klipper also just has a configuration file that you edit.
This is a mighty one.
I am not looking forward to putting it back into that enclosure.
That looks great
I completely hear you on the 3d printerrrrs hobby that's actually kind of bigger than the 3d printing itself :-D Been there, doing exactly the same... I'm currently building an upscaled version of the Tiny-M although I tend to call it just another Voron simply because I like their logo more than the Tiny-M variant :-) My printer frame size is 350x350x400 and I decided to re-use an old MK2B 12/24V bed I had laying around as a left over from my very first bed-slinger called Rebel2 which I had upgraded with the MK52 prusa clone bed. This old bed is 214x214 and I used to pair it with a sheet of glass to print on. I'll try to use it again with glass to begin with testing this new printer, but there's a magnetic base and PEI sheet awaiting to be delivered to hopefully replace the glass sheet... however this old bed is pretty thin and can flex a lot, so I'm not yet sure if pairing it with magnetic base and flexi PEI sheet will work well for flatness. The glass sheet makes for a pretty flat surface, but I'm really fed up with putting a layer of glue stick on it and cleaning... I do consider PEI far far superior to the glass+glue setup. Anyway, thanks for sharing your project, it's certainly a big help to guys like us who like the building, modding and tinkering with electronics more than the actual plastic melting and pushing :-D I'm joking, I do love pushing plastic too :D
just wait until you see the next 3d printer video with my 400x400 chiron corexy conversion.
I am about to begin a project for BCI interface and bci detection methods which microprocessor do you recommend? I have done some searching as for compatibility with AI and processing power pi does better in some aspects but arduino has more compatibilty. which if either of these would you prefer, or another product?
I have no idea what any of that means.I just flash firmware and play games.
well i intend to build a brain computer interface using pi or arduino with infrared detection methods. I thought you might have some insight into subject matters sorry.@@leesmithsworkshop