My channel is dedicated to transmission building for all applications. I specialize in General Motors, Ford and Dodge rear wheel drive transmissions from the 60s through present day. My target audience includes general auto-repair enthusiasts, DYI'ers & dedicated transmission builders with an emphasis on bringing newer folks into the transmission rebuilding space.
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Possible OEM warranty repair that lasted a long time?
I'm working for Nick's Ferraro many years ago
Thank you for watching, Pablo!
Nick. Good info. On the hard 1-2 shift. Page 86 of the atsg manual number 372 and 371. In the valve body will also cause a hard shift. All they have to do is hang and it a hard shift. Also, I have had several that still shifted hard after a rebuild. Those ended up with a pcm (eco) as the cure.
Yep, PCM is becoming more of a frequent flyer when it comes to transmission problems, especially in the 90s units as those computers begin to age into disrepair. This trans is back in the vehicle and it's back on the road, no more harsh 1-2 shift (yay!) Thanks, Larry.
Thanks a lot, from Bangkok, I have one of 700R4 on my G20 5.7 van and one of 4L60E one piece case from junk yard, your VDO very useful for me, THANKS again,,,,,
You're welcome, man - glad it was helpful for you...Thank you for watching!
Hey it's Josh again. So my bell housing bolts stripped (2 of them) I got the transmission apart without damaging the pump. My question is how can I get it back in with it tearing the O ring on the pump. Thanks
Hi Josh, if you can get the pump w/o-ring installed back into the transmission w/out taking the bell off, please let me know how you did it. I tried once in the same situation and couldn't get it back in...I ended up drilling through the bell housing perpendicular to the bell-case bolts, shearing them in half to get the bell off...Then I weld-repaired the bell housing at those locations.
A new half inch Drill bit. Will drill the heads off the bell housing to case bolts. vice grips will usually then remove the bolts from the case.
@@larryschaum6280 thanks
Truly amazing how large the filter is on this trans... Get my Honda Accord uses a little tiny one the size of a fuel...
Yes, the Honda trans filters are tiny, haha. Thank you for watching!
not to mention, I added an external cooler in addition to the radiator cooler and it turns up at the factory shop manual for the Corvette shows the fluid flow backwards through the radiator so I hooked up my cooler wrong i found that out that accidentally too
I fought a lot of problems after I got my rebuilt transmission put back in. It would randomly shift into second going down the highway and I thought there might be something wrong with the transmission. but it turns out it was my PCM once I swapped it the issue went away, but I was still having trouble with the lock up hunting while I was driving it would go in and out of lock up a lot. Turned out to be the brake switch, even though the brake switch wasn’t adjusted enough to let the lights turn on when i just touched the brake pedal, there is another switch inside of the brake light switch that ran the lock up and that was Hair trigger, i re-adjusted the brake switch that went away. It’s crazy how unrelated things that don’t set off any sort of a malfunction light can cause you nothing but trouble and there’s really nothing wrong with the transmission.
Yep, very true...Lot's of sensors/switches directly impact the transmission's performance, function and behavior and can have you chasing your tail trying to figure out which ones at times. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome info
Thanks, HMG!
Great video, I have a 95 Corvette with a 4L60E thanks for sharing a differences!
You're welcome, Yeller95Vette and thank you for watching!
I have reverse and no forward. Lead frame and valve body replaced. Trans had water in it when I got it.
Hi Sean, thanks for watching...The transmission has to come out for overhaul, especially if it had water in it. Hope there isn't more than superficial surface rust on ferrous metal parts. More than likely, the forward clutch is fried but won't know for sure until it's on the bench and you're going through it.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks man. appreciate the info on the strategy and coinciding serial numbers as well. subbed / liked
Awesome, thanks Sean!
I watch one and two Nick. Impressed with cleanliness precision. Great job. Unfortunately I live in Virginia I wish I could find somebody that I could rely on such workmanship
Thank you, John - appreciate the kind words. I think Fed Ex charges $350-450 to ship via Freight one-way which is a bit much, unfortunately. If it was roughly half that, I'd say just ship it to me for overhaul but it may or may not be worth it to you at those rates...
I have no forward gears, but have a strong reverse. removed valve body and the check balls are good. trans has 40k miles on reman unit. oil was clean and cherry. no metal in pan. whats my next step?
Hi Taylor, I'll pose the question to you - based on what you saw in the video, what do you think your next step should be? Instead of spoon-feeding answers, I'd like folks to start using the diagnostic progression, much of which is laid out in the video. Let me know what you think your next steps should be (there's almost no wrong answers other than to say 'I'll do nothing'). I'll provide additional guidance based on your reply.
Im going to air test and see if i have any pistons leaking by.
Yep, that's exactly what I would do next. Focus on the 1-2-3-4 piston, it may have cracked. Also monitor for air/fluid coming out of the 3-5-R port while charging the 1-2-3-4 clutch with air. If the 1-2-3-4 piston applies and releases normally then the other likely culprit in the case is the rear sprag. Dont see those fail too often outside of 2006 (they only had 30 elements that year and were markedly weaker than the 38-element versions installed in later years. Let me know what happens...
@@nickstransmissions is there a way to test the rear sprag without removal of trans?
Not that i am aware of but given the no fwd mvmt, you largely ruled out non-case causes (non-case = tehcm, vb) via your inspection of the valve body so next step is to remove, tear down and inspect the transmission, regardless of what the air check at the 1-2-3-4 apply circuit reveals. Do you have any transmission-related codes stored?
After the AOD is rebuilt and installed will you adjust the tv cable or the shop?
Hi Adrianna, the primary shop does all the TV cable adjustment since they have the vehicle in their possession..I only do carry-out builds. Thank you for watching!
New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥
Thank you, Tony!!! Welcome aboard🍻
Never showed us how to get that snap ring in the center support.
Here you go: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eYCIt7J-f6STd8Y.html Thank you for watching, Matt.
Nick, another excellent video. As a builder myself, I watch a lot of these videos. From various people. I like to see what they do, compared to what I do. I have found things that are a much, better way to do certain tasks. I Have also seen some that I just have to shake my head at. You do a very, very good job of, explaining yourself as to why. I enjoy watching your stuff. I think one thing that those, not in the business (and some that are) need to understand is this. Always have reference material handy. And always build at a comfortable speed. Double checking on the bench. Can save you hours of time. When you have to go back in because, you either had a brain fart and guessed. Or you got in a hurry and messed up. No matter how many you have built. Or how good a reputation you have. Humbleness is only one job away. Good job sir!
Thank you, Larry - agree on all points! Especially the point about keeping a manual or other reference material on hand during the rebuild. It's all too often folks don't have the ATSG or equivalent manual on the bench, run into a problem and don't know how to fix or worse, don't know what they don't know and make mistakes without ever being the wiser. When I decide to take on a new type of transmission, first thing I do is buy or download the ATSG manual for that unit and literally go through it cover to cover...First thing I look at is the special tooling and see what tools I need so they're on hand before I begin. Thank again for watching!
Hey nick awesome videos quick question can i use 2010 awd cadillac as a core to rebuild for 2010 silverado 1500 6l80 both the silverado is 5.3 4x4
Thank you, John! You should be able to use the 2010 Cadillac as long as you either transfer your TEHCM to the Caddy transmission or simply purchase a new TEHCM for your Silverado's operating system version...The output shafts may or may not be a different length but if so, simply install your Silverado's output shaft in place of the one that came with the Cadillac code. That said, why not just rebuild the one in your Silverado?
Hola amigo cuál es la diferencia entre la 6r60 y la 6r80.. Saludos
Hi Carlos, thank you for watching. The 6R60 was only in production from 2005 until 2009 where it was replaced by the 6R80 in most of its applications (Pick-ups, vans, etc). The 6R60 was a lighter duty transmission with one less friction and steel in the clutch packs as well as other component differences.
Where are you located? I'm new here and was wondering if you had a business/shop. I am in need of transmission work. Thanks
Hi John, thank you for reaching out. I'm in the southwest, SoCal area...What part of the country are you located in?
@@nickstransmissions , I'm in VA. I was born and raised in CA but left a long time ago. I am impressed with you knowledge and workmanship. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Appreciate the kind words, John!
Dude you're awesome that is really cool thank you so much that's an awesome video very good tutorial
Thank you for the kind words, Charles!
accumulator in case was upside down
Hi Wolferine, thank you for watching! The 4th accumulator piston's orientation in the case wasn't the reason the 3-4 clutch went out. You can put the 4th acc piston upside down or right side up. You can also block the 4th acc piston and leave everything out as well. Please check out part 2 where I share what actually lead to the 3-4 clutch failure: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eYGX17idfcvQe9I.html The actual cause was something totally unexpected (at least by me).
@@nickstransmissions completely understand that it wasnt the cause, if i remember correctly you found a leaking check ball behind the 2/4 accumulator cup, but i wasnt wrong lol, even tho you can put it upside down or reverse it, thats not the way it comes, why change it? is it better? just bothers me unless theres a reason, also leaving out 3-4 springs may not initially cause a problem, and its hard to prove but on ones ive left them out seems like they dont last as long as ones with springs left in.. so now i always replace them with new ones.
No leaks in the 3rd accumulator check ball, I tested it on-camera...I've had less than 10 of those come in truly leaking over the years...most of the time, crud gets in there and causes a small leak, which can still lead to premature failure. Load release springs should be used anytime you're running clearances tight in the 3-4 which is what you should be doing. I install them anytime I'm under .040...I've built countless 4L60Es and 700R4s where the 3-4 clutch pack clearance is greater than .045 (usually .050-.060), no load release springs and they are still on the road, 100k, 125k plus on builds I did over 10 years ago. If you want to better understand the "whys" behind certain mods you can watch some of my other videos where I discuss some of the theory behind certain practices and procedures or take a look at the hydraulic schematics, assuming you haven't already done either. How many 4L60Es have you built, just curious? Of those, how many times have you installed a Transgo SK4L60E shift kit? Of those, how many come backs have you had due to putting the 3-4 accumulator piston in the bore with the legs facing down, over top the spring? Did you watch part 2?
@@nickstransmissions i do 3-5 a week for about 15 years.. so on the low side ive built over 2, 250 4l60e's not to mention all the other units (not just stuck to gms) started with 700 r4's normally dont run shift kits, they want things stock, never had a comback because i put the accumulator upside down, i just dont do it. most of the comebacks i get are with the 3-4 drum leaking where im lazy and i dont test it. never ran into the case check ball, but ive seen it alot online and have been looking for one, any other comeback normally is due to a bad part, "replaced valvebody, solenoids" something just failed out of the box. ive built tons of hondas more so back in the day of the front wheel drive vans. chrystler, you name it not afraid, been there got the tshirt lol.
3-5 per week is impressive, I manage to do 1-2 per week when I get a run of them in....I also do other units but your mix is a bit more diverse than mine (I haven't expanded yet to do the front-wheel drive stuff like Hondas). Yea, the 2-3 acc check ball capsule in the case is definitely a very rare thing, most on-line discussions about it seem to be more of myth perpetuation than actual first hand accounts of seeing them genuinely bad. I once asked Dana at Pro Built about how often he's seen them leak and he said he had one leaking in a 700R4 years ago and he's done more 700s/4L60Es than I'll likely ever do, even if I lived to be 200 years old, lol. Thanks again for watching, man...Appreciate the input.
Hi Nick. I removed my truck engine and I know there is transmission fluid leaking from inside the transmission (C6) as it forms a puddle in front of the torque converter on the inside of the housing. I did let the transmission lower slowly and hang by itself without supporting it for a period of time, so maybe that caused some damage- or maybe not. My question is if I can remove the pump to replace its internal components without damaging/dislodging anything even though the transmission is still in the vehicle? Maybe also important to note is that the puddle seemed to form when the torque converter was attached no matter the position of the transmission (that is, even after iterations of raising and lowering it using a floor jack) but I took the torque converter out and it has since stopped, even though the transmission has been through the same range of motion. Also, the truck (which I bought recently) seems to have an overfilled transmission (the fluid level is way beyond the crosshatching present- we're talking 5 inches when cold) so maybe that could explain this? Leo
Hi Leo, thanks for watching. Since your engine is out and presumably being rebuilt, it's an opportuine time to do the same to the transmission. Remove, tear it down and inspect it. The rebuild it with quality parts, upgrading it as needed for your intended usage and engine power. Replace the torque converter with a reman or new. Select a stall speed that matches your engine's cam grind, power, etc...
Hey buddy, I’ve got 3 check balls… do I just omit the 3rd bc of the kit, or should I use it? It’s a 79.
Hi Jon, absent any other details, I'd follow the directions that came with the kit you are installing.
Man, you should make a site where people your videos have helped can post photos of their transmissions.
That's a great idea, Jon! I think I will incorporate that into my website...I plan on launching it this fall and will do a video once it's available.
A sheet of Teflon would slide those over nicely. I had gotten a piece from the Cooking Isle at the Market.
Great idea, James - will definitely look into it. Thank you for watching!
This is a unit I’m very unfamiliar with and I’ve really enjoyed these so far. Keep up the good work
Thanks, Esoteric!
His videos are very good but not great bc he moves too slow and too much detail. His vids are great and helpful.
Thanks...I do tend to provide a lot of detail, perhaps too much at times. I am looking to trim it down some so I can move quicker through tear down videos.
How long did it take to memorize placment of all the different valves ,impressive
Thanks, Matt...After about five or six, I recall 'suddenly' knowing all the valve trains by heart for those transmissions...Over the years, I've gotten to the point where I simply have to do one or two of a given transmission type and know them all at that point...
Just beat the crap out of that shaft 😅
Sometimes you have to beat them like they owe you lot's of money and refuse to pay!🤣
Excellent information. Good video, as always sir.
Thank you, Larry!
Wow! 1st to comment. Excellent content 👌 👏🏽
Thank you, Joe!
Great work, love the videos!!! Ive been looking at some bushing drivers for the 4l60e, would the plastic bushing drivers work??? Thanks!!!! They are a bit cheaper?????
Hi Frank, thanks for the kind words! Those plastic/3D printed bushing drivers are fine for once in a blue moon but wouldn't trust them for regular duty use.
@@nickstransmissions Awesome 👍 Thanks
3 questions about a 4L60E automatic transmission testing of a vehicle with unknown transmission condition (like test driving used trucks for purchase): 1. What, if anything, will warming up a transmission do in Drive, and then stopping and manually shifting it from Park to 1st, to 2nd, to 3rd to 4th show the driver about the transmission? 2. If a transmission seems to shift funny or delay or slip when doing its thing in Drive, but does or doesn't have the same behavior in manual shifting, does this indicate anything useful to isolate issues? 3. Will an automatic transmission possibly behave fine when cold, but then fail when warmed up? Oh, bonus question...lol I'm focusing my learning on GM 4L60e and 4L65E trannys because i prefer GM trucks in the 90s and early 2000s, but I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins (180,000 miles) that would not drive well at all in Drive from a cold start, or warm start (did not want to go from standstill), but if I placed it in Neutral, and then shifted it into 1st, 2nd, 3rd and Drive, would be fine. But at each stop I had to repeat this again to make it go correctly. A well known tranny shop with Dodge couldn't figure it out...no codes apparently, and I eventually had them try tightening the bands and replace shift solenoids ($700). He said the bands were max adjusted at that time. This seemed to work for about 300 miles but then started the dysfunction again, so I got them to put one of their rebuilds in. This worked fine for about 2,000 miles, and now it operates fine as long as it's warmed up. It's not in warranty so now I'm stuck with it as-is. This truck is driven very infrequently and not abused with heavy towing. It's basically a ranch chores truck. So as-is I have to put in 1st to get it going, but once warmed will shift fine in Drive, most of the time. Any thoughts on this weirdness? Thanks!
1. Nothing, other than to verify function 2. Yes - tells you one or more applied or holding elements are worn or broken (forward clutch, input sprag). If no movement in any forward range setting, low roller has failed (rare in these transmissions) 3. Yes - worn applied elements and/or hydraulic circuits are the causes 4. That Dodge transmission shop was either clueless or crooks; those 47REs and 48REs have numerous valve body issues by the time they come in for overhaul so VB has to be remediated with corrective valves/plugs where available or replaced with a reman. ETA: I have a series of Dodge 47RE videos that will be published in the next couple weeks, including a complete valve body tear down and vacuum testing series. Please subscribe if you haven't so you can be notified when they hit the channel. Will provide very good insight into what's happening with your Dodge Ram.
@nickstransmissions super! Thanks for info! I have subscribed. Yes...I think the shop is both stupid and crooks! I had to take the truck back 3 times because it was leaking considerably afterwards. It was an o-ring near a top side component they had left out. They had changed the pan on 2nd visit back, because they're so dumb. That's what $3,900 gets me I guess. Next time I'm doing the work myself in my dirt driveway from KZread videos like yours. Thanks much!
You're welcome, man...Those units are fairly easy to work on and rebuild, with the possible exception of the valve bodies unless you have a Sonnax vac test machine to ID bad/poorly sealing hydraulic circuits. There's a couple specialized procedures, including checking clearance in the OD direct and gear train travel but I cover all of those step by step in my Dodge 48RE rebuild series: kzread.info/head/PLMqgQ_reThtJuWEpwx2nNM_oMz73y8vtd The only 'special' tool you really need is a dial indicator to check clutch pack clearances on the forward and direct drum (feeler gauges are also fine) and drill bits if you don't have the gauge bar...The alignment tool for the overdrive gear set is simply a cut-in-half intermediate shaft so grab an extra one, cut it down and you'll have what you need to completely overhaul the overdrive/ext housing section.
Im rrbuilding my transmission and i was curious in the 3-4 drum are the forward return springs necessary to put back in the drum? I see yours didnt have any in it
Hi Josh, thanks for watching. I leave the load release springs out unless my 3-4 clutch pack clearance is .040 or less. If so, i install them. I also install them if RPMs are expected to routinly exceed 5500 RPMs (along with the Transgo HR return spring kit).
@@nickstransmissions thanks for the information. I'll check out my clearances and may leave mine out because mines just a daily driver
You're welcome, Josh. Let me know if you have any questions along the way.
@@nickstransmissions I definitely will do you have an email that I can email may have some more questions along the way with my transmission rebuild since I'm doing it myself to save money
Just reply to this comment with any questions or problems you run into and I'll help where I can...This way others who may run into the same situations or have similar/same questions can view the responses...Thanks, Josh.
Hey nick new sub! Question I lost all the foward gears in my 2004 4x4 tahoe. I was thinking maybe a checkball issue. Was wondering if I have to pull the Trans for this or if I can pull the whole valve body off
Hey Gunnerranch, thank you for the view and sub! Unfortunately, the trans will have to come out as either the forward sprag has broken, low roller clutch broke (this is the case if you have no forward movement in any gear setting on your shifter) and/or forward clutch failed. All this assumes you have reverse.
@nickstransmissions I do have reverse. Thank you! Cheaper to buy a reman or rebuild?
You're welcome, man...It's always cheaper to rebuild your own, especially if you want to upgrade it.
@nickstransmissions man I would myself if I was good enough to do all that I mean I tinker and stuff. But seems complicated haha
In that case, I'd find a local transmission builder well-versed on those units to do the work (most shops are). They will know what updates and upgrades to incorporate so that it's done right and you'll not have to worry about it after everything's completed.
Would you do anything differently if you did it again? I have a 05 4x4 Yukon 5.3L. 233,000 miles. Runs good now. Looking to get a used cheap broken 4L60/65/70 to rebuild with my teen as a DIY learning project. To have ready. I found a used one for $60, with nothing but Reverse working. For a daily driver, would any of those tranny work for it? Thanks!
Good questions...In this case, I wouldn't do anything differently insofar as rebuilding the transmission itself. I won't go into it any further about what I would tell the customer to do at risk of spoiling the outcome in case you haven't yet watched part 2: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eYGX17idfcvQe9I.html In late 2005, GM started to install turbine shaft speed sensors (TSS) into the 4L60Es so that required a series of design changes to the pump, input drum as well as a new wiring harness and speed sensor itself. I might confirm or deny whether your current transmission has the speed sensor...Easiest way to do that is to call GM, ask for 'Parts' and give the parts guy the last 8 digits of your VIN...Then ask if that vehicle came with turbine shaft speed sensor-equipped 4L60E...He'll be able to tell based on the VIN. If your trans does have a TSS then you want to stick to L2005-2008 4L60Es...If not, any 2001-2008 4L60E will work...If your current trans doesn't have one but the core you buy for your project does, simply omit the speed sensor and install the 'blank' o-ringed plug that is available from GM to plug up that hole.
can you leave all the check balls for a smooth shift and it still apply pressure to the whole piston?
Hi Zane...If you leave the check balls out, the shifts will be markedly firmer as those check balls act as qusai restrictors for timing purposes. Unless you're all out racing with a high stall converter or perhaps doing a full manual application, I'd leave them in and drill the plate's 1-2 and 2-3 feed orifices out per desired shift firmness. Otherwise, leaving the plate factory will yield the smoothest shifts. Thanks for watching!
@@nickstransmissions its going in a k10 with 33 tires, 3.08 gear ratio and a gutless 350. but its always under a load with the tire and gear combo. i tow with it from time to time. so i just want a smooth shift. thank you for taking the time to answer. your content is great. keep it up.
Gotcha...I'd upgrade your final drive ratio to something a bit deeper, perhaps 3.73 gears, if it has 33 inch tires. You'll want the extra mechanical leverage and the engine/transmission will appreciate it to as it will alleviate stress on them at lower RPMs and you'll likely see an improvement in city fuel economy...If you ever do a 700R4 swap, you'll definitely want those 3.73s for when in overdrive.
So how did you handle this cost/warranty wise.
Hi jcrackcorn, thank you for watching...The customer and I came to an accommodation that was fair for both parties.
IF Mr. Customer found issue before transmission was removed, approximately what percentage of life would have been lost. I am assuming there is an off the cuff answer since you were able to do a fine tooth comb inspection. Your vacuum test demonstration was really helpful. I will now look for a video of any suggestions for a daily driver fully able to tow as needed (I'm rehabbing a 100+ yr old house), and very rare mud play. '07 trailblazer
Hi David, thank you for watching. If the customer found the issue prior to removal of the transmission, no wear or life expectancy reduction would have occurred as the VSS failure resulted in the 3-4 clutch simply coming off vs slipping. VSS will force a mechanical downshift from 3rd to 1st but at highway speeds the feeling is like being in neutral because only the massive disparity in gear ratio compared to actual road speed when in 1st at 30+ mph. Here's a good video that can help with a 4L60E build for towing: kzread.info/dash/bejne/kX6sp7mdmtHWgsY.html This is of a late model vehicle but the only real differences are the presence of the pressure switch manifold assy/MLPS/3-2 control solenoid and valve in the 1993-2008 4L60Es vs the 2009+, as shown. Let me know if you have any questions.
The Accumulator valves becoming stuck sucks!! ALL 3 of mine were hard to move but the 4th was really bad. I had to soak it in mineral spirits and work it back and forth, 1mm at a time, forever!! They will all be replaced with steel valves as I believe this is what eventually led to the clutch burnout. I found a old telecom pic I had worked best, and oddly it was very useful throughout the rebuild. Like it was made for transmission work. Jonard Tools JIC-22035
Yes, they can be an absolute pain in the ass...I've had a few come in where they were so siezed/stuck, I just tossed the accumulator body and replaced with a good, used one that was compatible with that particular 4R100. Appreciate the tool recommendation, will check it out. Anything to make quicker work of those acc valves would be very helpful and well-received 🍺 Thank you for watching!
At the risk of you getting all butt-hurt again, I want to point out a technical glitch that you stated. Solenoids do not "put out milliamps". They are NOT energy producing components - they are energy consuming components.(since this appears to be an educational video, I would assume that you would want correct information to be conveyed) That being said, you most definitely DO have the equipment to test them. It is the same meter in your video. Hook up your meter leads IN SERIES with a test harness of the proper voltage for the solenoid.(I don't know if it is the full 12 volts or a reduced number) and activate them. I=E/R (ohm's law) does not lie.(As a side note, the easiest "test harness" would be to plug all the solenoids into the lead frame and use the pin-outs to test ) Your other commenter is correct that temp. variations can effect ohm readings. In closing, you have a good clean presentation and I commend you for educating yourself and refer to the LEEEED frame as such.
No butt-hut here but I'll speak up if I don't like how something is said or done to me, as you've seen so as long as folks know that going in, no reason we can't have civil discourse....That said, all of the above is great information and I appreciate you sharing it. I need to do some more self education into the electrical side of the house when it comes to transmissions so sharing your knowledge like this definitely helps me progress along those lines. Thank you for watching, Skutahuniai.
@@nickstransmissions I may be wrong but I think you may be just starting to venture in to the 6-8-10 speeds and their electronics. If so, yes you need to get good with the electronic aspect. That being said, you learn by reading and listening but if you are fed incorrect info, then it perpetuates itself. Case in point. Here is a quote from a Transmission Digest article of April 30, 2024: "The Ford 6R80 transmission has one on/off solenoid, which is Shift Solenoid “E”, as seen in Figure 1, above. It has received a design change that has raised its resistance and, therefore, the current flowing through it." Absolute utter nonsense and incorrect. If you raise the resistance of a component, you lower the current flow, not raise it for a given voltage! When you have tech writers putting out this nonsense, what can be expected? PS - You mentioned including links to your charts but I don't see any links.
Thanks again...And you're correct with respect to the 6-8-10 speeds, especially the latter two. Excellent information with respect the Trans Digest article, that kind of information is priceless when trying to understand the electrical side and what to be on the lookout for out there in publications like articles, guides, manuals, etc. I'll upload the link to my chart into the description in the next day or so, thanks for the heads up...
@@nickstransmissions A lot of these so-called "tech writers" have never had a wrench in their hands. The only trustable articles are from the likes of GM, Ford, Dodge etc tech departments and Sonnax, Transgo, Hughes etc. For anyone reading, I will give a short blurb on solenoid "bands". They are actually only important for service and repair. After manufacture, ALL solenoids are tested and have their FLOW RATES noted and stamped with a certain color or number. Upon initial transmission assembly, the tech doesn't care what "band" he is installing. It doesn't matter because initial testing(or a re-learn after a complete rebuild) will allow the PCM to adjust to that flow rate. It is only important when replacing a defective one. It must be replaced with the same "band" because the PCM has set parameters for that flow rate.
I re-read your first comment, "Hook up your meter leads IN SERIES with a test harness of the proper voltage for the solenoid.(I don't know if it is the full 12 volts or a reduced number) and activate them. I=E/R (ohm's law) does not lie.(As a side note, the easiest "test harness" would be to plug all the solenoids into the lead frame and use the pin-outs to test )" and decided I will do this in a follow-on video on these solenoids for ZF and 6R transmissions demonstrating what you've described...When I made the statement in that video about not having the equipment, I was actually referring to Sonnax's Solenoid Manifold Test kit, which wasn't in my possession at the time but I'll have next week so will incorporate your suggestion and vacuum testing in this follow on video. Thanks again for the tip.
Wow awesome work, we're is the best place to buy parts for a 4l60e ?
Thanks for watching and the kind words, Frank! Your best bet for parts is local transmission parts supply shops. Contact Transtar or visit their website for a local Transtar distributor in your area...Online: eBay (search 'Deluxe kits' for your transmission type), Transpartswarehouse.com, Cobratransmissionparts.com, WITPerformance. For high performance stuff, you'd have to let me know what specific unit you're working on and I can point you in the right direction.
@@nickstransmissions Just asking because I heard some of the China stuff was really bad parts.
Yep, avoid as much as possible though unfortunately there are some parts for some transmissions where replacements are made in China and no where else but those are relatively few in number, at least for the transmissions I regularly work on....But in most cases, you can buy all USA-made parts. Raybestos, Alto and Borg Warner clutch/friction products are all made here while some of Exedy's stuff is made overseas. Most of the electronics made by the OEMs or Rostra are made in the US, Mexico, Canada or Japan.
Would it hurt a 4L60e to fill it up with Lucas tranny fix to see if a seal is the problem? Or maybe 50% Lucas?
Hi Thesetruths...What transmission and is the problem with it? There really isn't any genuine bottle-based fixes out there, most are a total waste of money while others only help if the transmission is already healthy and the stuff helps reinvigorate the fluid to some small extent.
@nickstransmissions I was curious if the seal conditioners in Lucas or similar are strong enough to swell piston seals enough to stop leakage issues. I have a 98 Pathfinder 4x4 automatic that usually won't go into 4th unless I let off the fuel pedal a little, then it kicks up and behaves as normal. Know what may cause this? It usually does it only if I'm stepping on it to get on Interstate. If I drive it like a granny to 75mph it doesn't do it, usually.
Gotcha....Short answer - No...Those lip seals and/or sealing rings are already too worn if you're experiencing the drivability symptoms that you've relayed above. You should have a Nissan RE4R01A transmission.
While I continue to watch this. I will say that. Ambient temperature of the solenoids, will make some difference. In the readings. As little as 5 degrees can make different readings.
Hey Larry, thanks for making sense of that for me...I think when those solenoids were tested (and values written on their bodies) temps were in the mid 80s but when I filmed that segment the following day (later in the day), temps were in the high 90s. So that would explain the difference in those readings.
I finally got to finish watching this. As usual, another good informative video. I would like to ask about the holder on the transmission, that you can see some of. Towards the end of the video. That sir, really interests me.
Thanks, Larry...That's a Norco stand and adaptor system for those Ford and ZF 6 speed transmissions...I will be doing a video on special tooling for the 6R80 soon and it will feature that stand/fixture combo.
Hi Nick. Have two valve bodies, 72’ and ‘79. . I’ve completed the ‘79 c6 rebuild. Can I make one valve body from parts of these two vb’s. The ‘79 vb has some of its valves weather stuck. The ‘72 is in good shape. Your thoughts
Hi Lorne, unfortunately you cannot...The C6 underwent significant engineering changes in mid-1976 which impacted the valve body as well as low-reverse apply and exhaust circuits. The gist is the exhaust for L/R was moved from the low reverse piston to the valve body so that change made the two vintages not interchangeable between early 76 and back and mid-76 and forward...You'll need to source a mid-1976+ valve body that's in good shape.
@@nickstransmissionsthanks Nick.
You're welcome, Lorne.
HI Nick, I wonder if you can give me some advice on my valve body build? I put a shift kit in and now I don't have second gear. I put the shift kit in and a corvette servo in because I didn't have 1st and 4th and now its not shifting into 2 when I manually shift from 1st to 2nd. and then when I shift from 3rd to 2nd it goes into a neutral mode and the vehicle wont move forward. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
hi David, if you had 2nd gear prior to doing the work then I'm guessing you either left solenoid A unplugged, failed to install the retainer clip on Solenoid A or perhaps the same but for one of the other solenoids...Drop the pan and check. If the VB appears fine, drop it, the spacer plate, gasket set and air check the servo apply for both 2nd and 4th gear...
What would you recommend the vacuum should be at on pressure regulator valve when doing a heavy duty rebuild?
Min of 15 Hg for all applications is my standard.
@@nickstransmissions thank you for the reply
Tell more about the .001" oversize valves.what if only one land is worn?what if there's only wear on one side of the bore?which is nearly always the case.i call bs on the thousandths over repair valve.theres a few reasons that approach to restore hydraulic integrity will end in failure
Your comments should be directed at Transgo, Sonnax, STech and others who make them, not those who use them. Go ahead, call them up and tell them you call "bs" on their products (and by extension, their engineers, tech folks and developers of those products). Let me know what they say. I never had any problems with any OS drop in valves and been using them all for years. I vacuum test any locations where they are installed so if they're too tight I polish the bores until the fitment is good to go. If a drop in valve doesnt seal adequately (bore is simply too worn, sealing integrity still not achieved) I ream it for an OS valve if a reamer and valve is avail. If not, the whole casting gets replaced.
Looks like the pan got the salvage yard stab and plug.😅
Yep. Thanks for watching, Billy
Your opinion on if its worth the hassle to source a 3 friction drum from a pto optioned truck? Love the videos! been binge watching all day, and already will have a better build on my next 4r100 !! But I just cant do the dry frictions!!! :-)
Thanks for the kind words, Val...Unless you're going to be doing a lot of serious duty towing/hauling, etc it's prob not worth it but your call...Also, there's no harm in soaking frictions, but it makes it a lot harder for you to detect potential problems in the case when the pump's installed and you're spinning the input shaft. That's primarily why I keep them dry.