Hello Gearheads. I've had a passion for cool cars and their mechanical workings since I was very young. I primarily enjoy building and modifying the LS platform... but I appreciate anything rare, custom, or exciting in the automotive world. I hope you enjoy your time watching my adventures and if you need any help on your own projects, don't hesitate to leave a comment. When you're done watching, please subscribe, and then get back in the garage and get to work!
- Jeff
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By the way the flex socket doesn't affect the torque. Only an offset will affect the torque reading.
thanks for sharing. I wasn't sure about that or not so I looked it up and I believe you are correct!
Just take the hoses and fuel line off. Makes it way easier for big hands.
Great tip. If I ever have to do this again I would consider that!
I installed this, but my front right door speaker is still the only loud speaker. Tried messing with all the settings on the radio
Was your front right door speaker loud before you installed the amp? If so it probably isn’t an amp issue. My experience was when the factory amp went bad, all the speakers went quiet gradually over time. If that was your case too, then check all the connections to make sure they are plugged in. If that doesn’t work I’d call mobile car audio to rule out the amp being bad. If you’ve had previous car audio work done, I’d be willing to bet some of that previous work has failed.
Hey Jeff, do you know if there is a better Y pipe for the coolant hose than the OEM? Its all plastic, do they sell metal or something more durable somewhere? Thanks
dorman 626-611 is supposedly a "permanent" fix. I stuck with oem since the original lasted 10 years and 100k miles... surely i wont have the car 10 more years and another 100k miles to fix it again... lol
@@JeffLyle fair, good point. My Y pipe lasted 50 000 miles but also at 10 years. Mainly use my ATS for city driving. I guess I'll go with OEM again. Thanks
@@UkrainianPunk180 I'm sure either way is fine. Good luck with it and thanks for reaching out!
Is this why my car would cut off while at a red light? Or park
Probably not. Do you have a check engine light on and can you scan it to see any codes? If you don’t have a scanner, you can go to a parts store like autozone and they can scan it for you. Let me know what codes you get and I can give you most common ideas to what you should look at
Sweet contraption! 💪 💪 💪
Thanks man. It works for the Jeep top too!
Thank you, Jeff for this video. I was able to change the sensor without removing any lines or hoses. My swivel socket was too bulky so I just used a short extension with the 27mm vertically and squeezed in my 3/8 ratchet from above. My sensor wire plug just needed a squeeze against the tab to release. I had to squeeze the tab again because the plug still wouldn't come off completely because it locked again after the initial release. Question though: I reset the P0523 code before turning on the engine but the code is still there. Pressure dial appears to working, giving me a reading above 40 PSI (not maxed out) though. Gauge stayed at zero before replacement. Is there something else I need to do or it working correctly? Thanks again.
awesome! I'm glad the video was helpful and you got your truck fixed!
Did you have any sounds from the chain?
No sounds from any part of the valve train. It was just a bad sensor so nothing mechanical.
Mannnnn that was a bitch for me to get off.
Can you please put the direct link of the product?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L3WBDN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Nice basic video, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I have coolant coming out the back side of my engine and you can see it underneath the car. Can you explain that if theres another tube other than the one up front
Check your heater hoses. Coolant will flow through the heater core behind the firewall and those hoses and their connectors can crack. Let me know what you see!
Im not going to lie, if i didn't watch this video i would probably have spent half a day trying to turn it with the car still in park. Lol
haha that's pretty funny. I've done that before... left a manual in gear and try to turn over the engine... just doesn't work. However, in an automatic, you can still turn it while in park since the torque converter will let it spin.
Good video, thanks for posting it. I have the same code on our SRX.
Thanks for watching. Were you able to fix it?
@@JeffLyle Yes. It took me 35 minutes from start to finish to replace the solenoid thanks to your video.
Yes!!! Glad the video helped and you saved tons by not taking it to the shop.
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If you drop anything behind there it is tough to get out.
No kidding that’s the truth
@@JeffLyle took me a few days to replace mine but I just got it finished using your method. I accidentally dropped the new sensor which fell further into the engine and that alone took a few hours to dig out. Then putting the electrical connector back on is tough because you don’t know where the 3 prong plugs are aligned. But in all it beats taking it into the dealership and then charging $700-$800 to replace a sensor because they wanna take apart the engine.
Glad to hear you were able to get it done. Nothing beats saving hundreds and avoiding a trip to the stealership!
@@JeffLylemy hand started bleeding a little and I remembered your comment that “if you aren’t bleeding a little bit then you not working” which is true for this job. Also I’m gonna use that term… the Stealership cause that’s what they are.
Haha glad I could pass that term on. Also a little blood helps you appreciate the hard work you did to save some big bucks. If you ever have issues with your truck and can’t find the right fix, make sure to reach out to me… I’ve seen it all!
what lol you leaveing the trash screen in lol
Absolutely. If the screen is the problem you have bigger issues. I’ve proven that if you regularly change the oil and have no sludge issues the screen will be clean. Thanks for watching.
so they say i can leave it out is this alright and i wasnt hitting at you for the screen being left i just didt know if i can clean it or what ever all i know is my truck runs nice then when it heats up the dinger gos off @@JeffLyle
No worries! Yes you can leave the screen out. In fact if you ever do a DOD delete and replace the valley cover with one that doesn’t have a VLOM, then there won’t even be a provision for the screen.
You can also clean it if you want to keep it. However most people end up tearing it when they remove it unless they take the intake off to get more room.
Hey I have the same code of p06DE and was wondering how it went and the location of the solenoid itself I read that it’s above the oil filter but I just want to confirm and did replacement of the solenoid worked and clear the code?
Yes, I replaced the solenoid and cleared the codes and everything works fine. The hardest part of the job is getting the exhaust pipe out of the way to reach it.
Lol. I just used a random rubber tool from my garage. Took two minutes and didn't stretch the belt too much.
Yeah it’s hit or miss. Sometimes a random tool or screwdriver works and sometimes you find out in 3 months that the belt was stretched too much and starts squeaking horribly.
Good Video. I just got the same code on my daughters SRX. How long do you estimate it should take to do the job?
Start to finish with the video took me about 3 hours. I've also driven the vehicle nearly 2,500 miles since I did the fix just over a week ago and I have no issues. I took the car all the way from Dallas to Phoenix and back and it runs great.
What’s the part number for the belt???
Ac delco 12636225 is the belt. I think they are like $25 on Amazon.
Visually saw nothing
It definitely takes a lot of feel to find it. But it’s worth it to not have to pull the intake. Good luck!
Did you also have leaking occur?
Yes it was leaking due to the air getting in the system causing the fluid to foam up and expand. The fluid would leak out of the cap. I didn't have any leaking occur at the seals though.
this was a very helpful video. I currently have it maxed out at 40 and it's still soft, especially when driving on the freeway.
that's what happened to mine. It gradually got softer and softer until there was just nothing left. Now I can hear it on the highway at 2
I had this problem before with my 2013 ats4 2.0t awd I took it in and cost me around $340 so I found your video and I went to the Amazon link you’ve got and in the reviews it says the braided hose is short I’m just wondering if you actually did order from that link so I don’t get screwed with having to wait on returning and ordering another part ?
the link in my description is the actual part I ordered. It fit perfect!
Gmc need to replace it for free just like recall shit
I just replaced the y hose 3 months ago but I’m losing coolant I don’t know where
do you see anything leaking on the ground? If so, you'll have to look very closely starting from under the car and moving up to see if you can find the leak. I like to do this with the car hot so the system is pressurized. If there is no visible leak and you dont see coolant on the ground, then check both your coolant and your oil to see if any mixing is occurring. This could indicate a head gasket issue. If that is the case, you may see white smoke from the tailpipe too.
Thanks im gonna try this out first before replacing my pump
Let me know if it works for you. And if it is still a little noisy try a bigger o-ring or the oem style o-ring. I ended up switching to an oem o-ring and haven’t had a problem since.
What bout the filter under it needs replaced too its probably clogged
The screen gets clogged only if there is a sludge problem. If you change your oil regularly then you won’t have a clogged screen. I proved this when I pulled the engine and swapped it in my 72 C10 a few years ago. I daily drive that truck and the engine has 237k miles on it with zero sludge.
I had 2013 super clean black AWD 201738 K miles ,I did the LED lights long time ago , then upgrade it to car play and navigation with HMI 2.5 and radio , , HUD , rear air suspension, and instead of 2.0L turbo engine , I upgrade it to 2.5L turbo , tune it , all my self , and its now super Cadi ,,❤❤❤❤
Dang that’s awesome! I bet that was a ton of fun
Thank you
Glad the video was helpful. You’re welcome!
What is that software for reading the codes? looks simliler to Forscan, I haven't been able to find a GMC Reader
I bought this scanner about 12-13 years ago for $15. It is called elmscan 5 from obdsoftware.net. It's a basic OBD2 cable and some software that runs on windows. Since there is no fancy proprietary things in the computer of these trucks, any basic $30 amazon OBD2 scanner should work just fine.
I thought changing my #8 spark plug was a Biacht ! Now I got this problem with no fancy tools
You aren’t lying about #8. I almost don’t know which is harder, that or the oil sensor.
Is the #8 a pain in the ass? I am doing plugs and wires on my 11'
I bet you can get 1 through 7 done in 20 minutes. Number 8 is gonna cost you a little more time, some bloody knuckles a few bad words.
How do you get the engine cover off
Remove the one bolt holding it down and then remove the oil fill cap!
I tried this with another brand I got but the damn things would just stop working. Sometimes they wouldn’t work with auto light controls, sometimes they’d just shut off completely while driving, etc. According to the manufacturer a cambus was not needed
that's a bummer. I hope you got it worked out. Mine are working great and have had no issues!
@@JeffLyle Thanks. I gave up on those and just reinstalled standard halogens. I’m going to try the Brand mentioned here and see how it goes
@@asadianbelifont3875 if you give these a shot, let me know if they end up working or not. If they work, you are going to be blown away by how much better your visibility will be at night. I am confident they will do the trick!
If you ain't bleeding you ain't working...and if you grab a hammer you probably got the wrong tool
yessir!
Just ordered the part. Did you have to clear the engine light after replacing the hose or did it clear by itself.
I cleared the code, but it may eventually clear itself after driving it around a while
I found that a very small amount of silicone grease on the sealing surfaces helps reinstalling all the caps.
Great advice!
Will this cause the car to not shift correctly?
sorry for the delayed reply... I did not experience any shifting issues related to the vacuum leak. In older cars though, some automatic transmissions used a vacuum modulator to assist in shifting gears and they could experience shifting issues.
Turns out I have this same issue , however unrelated to the vacuum issue I noticed your coolant reservoir is completely full where as my car only has coolant in the top half.... Is this an issue? Just got the car a few months ago
Not an issue. Turns out the tank is supposed to be half full. I overfilled my by mistake. If you happen to overfill it though it is not an issue. There is an overflow hole in the top that allows extra to escape.
@@JeffLyle mines completely bone-dry so I'm going to be adding some soon
Why not the filter in there to ?
The filter/screen under the sensor only needs to be replaced if the engine has ever had a sludge issue. I proved this to myself when I took the engine complete out and prepared it for a swap into my 72 C10. At that time the engine had 225k miles on it and I did an AFM/DOD delete and removed the screen. It was spotless. Also when deleting the AFM/DOD system, I needed to replace the valley cover to remove the VLOM and block off the oil ports. At that time, I simply threw the screen out since the valley cover did not have provisions for it.
Here is the link from Auxito for the bulbs I used (apparently they don't sell them on Amazon anymore) www.auxito.com/collections/9012-led-bulb/products/9012-led-bulb-80-watt-16000-lumen?rq=yr_2014~mk_Cadillac~md_ATS~tm_~ml_High%20Beam%20and%20Low%20Beam%20-%20Off-road%20Use%20Halogen;%20For%20vehicle%20without%20Headlamps%20High%20Intensity%20Discharge It looks like the ones they sell on amazon are these. The only difference seems to be the advertised brightness of 30,000 lumens. That is nearly twice the lumens. They are a little more expensive but they do have some good reviews though. www.amazon.com/AUXITO-9012-HIR2-Lifespan-Replacement/dp/B0C5WQTG12/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2GMBEU1Y1UD1T&keywords=AUXITO+9012%2FHIR2+LED+Light+Bulbs+Mini+Size+80W+16%2C000LM+Per+Pair+CanBus+Ready+Conversion+Bulb+Kit%2C+6500K+White%2C+Pack+of+2&qid=1701951737&sprefix=auxito+9012%2Fhir2+led+light+bulbs+mini+size+80w+16%2C000lm+per+pair+canbus+ready+conversion+bulb+kit%2C+6500k+white%2C+pack+of+2%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d
What bulbs are you using? I done order 2 different type for my 2015 and none of the hardness matched
Here is the link from Auxito for the bulbs I used (apparently they don't sell them on Amazon anymore) www.auxito.com/collections/9012-led-bulb/products/9012-led-bulb-80-watt-16000-lumen?rq=yr_2014~mk_Cadillac~md_ATS~tm_~ml_High%20Beam%20and%20Low%20Beam%20-%20Off-road%20Use%20Halogen;%20For%20vehicle%20without%20Headlamps%20High%20Intensity%20Discharge It looks like the ones they sell on amazon are these. The only difference seems to be the advertised brightness of 30,000 lumens. That is nearly twice the lumens. They are a little more expensive but they do have some good reviews though. www.amazon.com/AUXITO-9012-HIR2-Lifespan-Replacement/dp/B0C5WQTG12/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2GMBEU1Y1UD1T&keywords=AUXITO+9012%2FHIR2+LED+Light+Bulbs+Mini+Size+80W+16%2C000LM+Per+Pair+CanBus+Ready+Conversion+Bulb+Kit%2C+6500K+White%2C+Pack+of+2&qid=1701951737&sprefix=auxito+9012%2Fhir2+led+light+bulbs+mini+size+80w+16%2C000lm+per+pair+canbus+ready+conversion+bulb+kit%2C+6500k+white%2C+pack+of+2%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d
Thank you for this video. The first time i looked at the location of the sensor, I thought, no way can I access that. I watched your video, and I thought, there is hope. I have done many very difficult jobs. So I thought I thought, I can do this. I purchased all the parts, sensor, filter, special socket, locktite. I had picks, and swivels. I was still having trouble reaching far enough back to get my hand behind the plastic shroud. To help, I removed the hood, and also the front wheels. This allowed me to sit the car down on wood blocks. Then I used the wheels to stand on which allowed me to easily reach the back. Disconnecting the plug was another chore. It has a double lock. Had to remove the white lock, then depress the second lock. I did both with long screw drivers. Once the plug was off, removing the sensor was not hard. I had to fish out the screen. A pick did not fit inside the screen. I used a drill bit, attached to a rubber fuel hose. The drill bit easily locked into the filter screen, and lifted it out. The filter was perfectly clean, but since I had a new one I replaced it. Then threading in the new sensor, I taped it to the socked to prevent it falling out.Threading in was slow, but successful. I had to clear the code before the gauge worked. All is good. The variable 4-6-8 also works again. Thank you for your video.
Man I'm so glad it all worked out for you! Way to be persistent
Thank you for this. I just installed these lights yesterday. They look really good, what a difference! 👍
So glad you found this helpful! Thanks for watching.
So mine has the connector with the lock and the lock it’s facing the opposite direction of me. It’s difficult, I think I have the lock pulled but I can’t push on the clip hard enough with the direction my hand is in. I’m giving it one more try otherwise taking intake off unfortunately
Don’t give up…. You got this!
did you change the little filter? thats is what gets clogged
No it doesn’t. The screen gets clogged only if you have a poorly maintained engine with sludge in it. The sensor is the problem 99% of the time.
well when you buy a used vehicle off a lot you dont know how it is maintained. Car sales detail makes them look new. I found out mine was probably a farm truck by taking off the fuse panel cover and finding grit in on the base holding fuses. The Chevy with afm also has issues with low oil pressure. The first indicator my engine was having issues was the oil sending unit. Then the cylinder 4 misfire. I ran a quart of transmission oil with every oil change every 2k miles. It took 2 oil changes and my lifter cleared. I don't have the misfire or stabil track issues but the oil sending unit code still pops up and changing the filter will happen soon. Tthe oil sending unit will be fixed too. My son just pull his filter and sensor on his 2013 gmc and the filter was clogged. Good luck on yours
@@mlm7536 Thanks, mine is running great. It now has 237k miles on it and lives in my 72 c-10. I have a whole playlist on my channel that shows me and one of my sons swapping it. I hope you get all the bugs worked on on your truck and you don't find a sludge issue to deal with.
Thank you I have similar problem through your video I was able to solve my problem
Nice. Glad the video was helpful for you!
Going to attempt this on my 2014. Just ordered the bulbs. Thank you!!
You got this!
@jeffLyle I order some auxito but my led lights didn’t come with that harness only the the led light it self and it didn’t fit my connector (which is like yours)
@@consumersleep148 I'd tell the company you bought them from that they are missing the harness.
I think if you remove the upper radiator hose it will go in smoothly 😉
It's been a while since I did this repair, but every time I watch it I'm like "why the heck was it so hard to get in there?"
@@JeffLyle I enjoyed the video 👍