1972 C10 LS SWAP Build Series PT.2

Автокөліктер мен көлік құралдары

Hey guys, my name is Jeff and I am a gearhead car hobbyist just like most of you. In this series I am building my 1972 C10 LS Swap. I plan to post 1 to 2 videos per week until the series is complete. The good news is that the truck is done, so aside for some editing, I have 99% of the content needed to finish this series. So like, comment and subscribe and follow along.
Thanks!!!
****PLEASE SUBSCRIBE FOR MORE VIDEOS****
/ @jefflyle

Пікірлер: 17

  • @BCRAIDER61
    @BCRAIDER612 жыл бұрын

    The reason for use of new bolts I have been told is they stretch and the integrity of the threads diminish sounds logical but LOCTIE eh 😊.

  • @JeffLyle

    @JeffLyle

    2 жыл бұрын

    The engineers that came up with TTY bolts had their logic and they seem to work very well. It amazes me with how many people are able to reuse the bolts over and and over with no issue as well... makes me think the they were over-engineered! 😉

  • @evanmalinowski6302
    @evanmalinowski63024 жыл бұрын

    Everyone has different opinions on what to reuse and what not to reuse. I like todo new cam bolts, rear cover gaskets, front cover gaskets, and I’ve always done head studs. But for an NA motor I don’t think it should be a big deal to reuse them!

  • @JeffLyle

    @JeffLyle

    4 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the feedback Evan! I am pretty much of the same opinion.

  • @h.i.sc-10tips31
    @h.i.sc-10tips314 жыл бұрын

    👍

  • @surfssup95
    @surfssup954 жыл бұрын

    is that a factory shortbed truck?

  • @JeffLyle

    @JeffLyle

    4 жыл бұрын

    Yes it is a factory short bed inline 6 with 3 on the tree... still has the clutch pedal in it as a millennial theft deterrent device lol

  • @deankay4434
    @deankay44343 жыл бұрын

    The only bolts listed as “Do Not Reuse” are the head bolts in GM service. You’re rear cover should have either gone on with a thin layer of Loctite 518 on both sides or dry and rear main seal is dry, no oil on crank or seal. You missed out on your oil gallery plug on drivers side behind the cover. Still can’t hear you very well, but this point, it’s water under the bridge.

  • @JeffLyle

    @JeffLyle

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks Dean - no worries... rear main seal is working fine after 6k miles still and the bolts had to be replaced since the aftermarket cover was a different thickness. And my $29 gopro knockoff doesnt have the best mic... lol.

  • @deankay4434

    @deankay4434

    3 жыл бұрын

    I guess I have just seen too many things go wrong over the years. The trick without special tools is improvise, as I kept the cover(s) in place, found a 1/4” drive socket who’s outside diameter fit perfect. Like a huge round feeler gauge, rolled it around the cover & crank until the same “Feel” telling me I was dead center. On our family farm, we never got an allowance, so with a crank-top Lincoln stick welder, torch, scrap pile, just made what I needed. I have a dozen or more tools from bent-welded at angles metric carb bolt wrenches, OHC push bar to change valve stem seals, T-chain wedges on rope for inline chain-driven engines to pull the head. What ever works! Step parents could barely change oil, so as the oldest, I did it. Never volunteer as it fall back on you. Advice I wish I knew when young, like a birthday card, age 11, sage advice. It is like dating or married & ask to help wash dishes. You do a good job and stuck with it for life! In Omaha. Have a good day.

  • @JeffLyle

    @JeffLyle

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@deankay4434 Great Stuff! My type of dude right here. Take care Borther!

  • @Galaviz515
    @Galaviz5153 жыл бұрын

    Hi I would like to know where you go the measures for the torques wrench

  • @JeffLyle

    @JeffLyle

    3 жыл бұрын

    I find this is a good spot for basic gen 3 LS stuff. There are some minor differences in the Gen 4 engines such as the cam retainer plate. www.jegs.com/tech-articles/ls-engine-specs.html

  • @deankay4434

    @deankay4434

    3 жыл бұрын

    Also, use a torque wrench that falls in the middle range of the torque specs call for. Example; For most all bolts on the engine covers call for 18 lb. in. So I use a SnapOn 3/8” drive torque wrench that is adjustable from 10 lb. in. to 80 lb. in. If doing head bolts, I get my 1/2” drive SnapOn torque wrench that has 5 stickers on it from re-certification by SnapOn. Believe it or not, but years ago, SnapOn would sharpen your side cutters and retighten your needle nose pliers, for free. They won’t do either today even the torque wrench as they return it if over two year old design and simply tell you they have no parts for it. They won’t even give you +/- torque results chart. At least companies like Fluke Meters will re-certify your meters accuracy and adjust as needed then include a before and after print out, with the techs signature. They have a lifetime warranty if you had registered with then when you bought it or provide proof of new purchase invoice for meters 1997 and newer. You can’t get SnapOn to replace a broken 10 mm deep 6 point non-impact unless you get it from the same truck dealer (Quit, Died, Moved, etc.) from a guy who doesn’t know you. They will think you bought it at a pawn shop or garage sale, even with photos of you and open drawers of 4 tool boxes. Rebuilding or refreshing / resealing an engine requires “Best Practices”. There are a lot of good tips on KZread from oil pump mods to reusing the head bolts. Imports used aluminum cylinder heads on cast iron block for decades now. I have worked on almost everyone, from Isuzu with 300k to Deloreons (DMC) even some you have never heard of. The difference in expansion and contraction is 2:1. So, re-torquing the head bolts every 30K was required. As long as you want the head gasket to stay sealed. I have provided this factory recommended service thousands of times and seen hundreds exceed 300K without the head needing removed. Special tools, in some cases yes. Best practices; Damn Straight!

  • @JeffLyle

    @JeffLyle

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@deankay4434 We need to have beer sometime... I am loving all the comments you've had lately! You have definitely been around the block in the car world. Thanks for checking out videos!

  • @deankay4434

    @deankay4434

    3 жыл бұрын

    Jeff, Growing up 3 miles from town. Town was 4 blocks long, any further driving and you were in the country. I apprenticed in small two man shops after two brothers who worked in the regular garage, ran me off because I bugged them by asking questions but held the light for them & handed tools. I wore them down as an oversized sponge. The guy I worked for, Carl, worked at a Chrysler for 26 years, quit and worked for a speed shop for 9 years. Told me he learned more at the speed shop making horse ponies in the machine shop. He passed his knowledge to me. I was rebuilding automatics (32 one winter/spring) at age 14. (Grew 7 inches at age 11- 6’3” tall. The build I have is a 67 C10 long-bed. First car was $150 1965 C10 Apache at age 13. My drivers license had no photo & said; Farm / School. Everyone’s license was B/W, no photo, no category for motorcycle or car. Drive one, got the other. Was driving For dually flat bed, C60 train truck to elevator during harvest, 60 series JD combine, D-4 Cat, JD50B barrow front, JD4020. None had umbrella or cab. Just fender mounted Motorola AM radio w/whip antenna for shade. Sun screen was dirt. Cold Beer sounds good! But I live 3 mile from Warren Buffet, only cheaper neighborhood. Have a good one.

  • @JeffLyle

    @JeffLyle

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@deankay4434 Awesome!!!

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