Lisa Ramlow - Bear Track Wood Works
I’ve been working with Wood for almost 20 years now, and I’ve always wanted to turn but for some reason I was afraid or it, or at least intimidated by it. I’m self taught and dove right into all the other tools but not with the lathe. I’ve become a KZread fanatic and over the past six months or so I’ve been binge watching a whole bunch of incredibly talented artists and craftspeople do their thing with the lathe. And I’m hooked! I purchased a Delta midi lathe in April and am teaching myself to turn by watching a myriad of turners’ instructional and fundamentals videos. Still have a lot to learn, but I’m totally geeked and have a ton of ideas combining wood with resin and alcohol inks and etched metals, copper in particular.
I hope you’ll come along on this journey with me.
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Awesome !!!
Thank you!
Love that black knot. Nicely done!
Thanks Ken!
Reminds me of my Grandma's bread bowl.
Thanks Ann! I'm thinking about tying a dough bowl at some point 👍
Thank you Lisa.
Thanks Nina!
Myriam sent me.
😁
I'm new to your channel and loving it already. I have a branch waiting in my workshop for just this project! Great commentary
Welcome Rachel! 😃
Beautiful. If you like to experiment, try the following method of finishing products, which I found on the Internet. Water-based aniline dyes are used. In this technique, the dye is applied with inexpensive sponge brushes and cheap paper towels. The process usually proceeds from the darkest colors to the lightest, creating layers of color. An interesting result is obtained on maple wood. The first layer is black. The paint is applied liberally inside and outside. Then wipe the outside with a paper towel moistened with clean water and dry the product. After this layer is dry, aggressive sanding on the outside with 180 grit sandpaper. A second coat is applied with a sponge brush to the outside of the vessel and wiped off with a wet paper towel. A red for the second color, for example, is used. After the red color has dried, it is semi-aggressively sanded with 320 grit sandpaper. Then a yellow dye is applied as the last layer of color, for example. After the vessel has dried, several layers of polymer coating are applied. *** Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) ***
Eyup Lisa long time no chat. I love the grain patern of ash. You've made a lovely job of enhancing it in this piece. I'm hoping to make my own urn and thinking of using ash. Which is a little ironic as it will be full of ash when in use. Keep up the lovely work Lisa and stay safe. By the way all the others look beautiful too. Good Phil Anderson name drop by the way another lovely person with an amazing talent.
Thanks Kev! I like the idea of making your own urn - can customize it however you want!
Hi there I made a comment on scrappers catching. Please watch this video ( wood turning avoid those nasty carbide catches ) by thepapa1947 . He explains better than me lol 😆
Hi there love bowl good job . I'm no expert but when using a scrapping tool or carbide on the inside it will catch less if you don't cut higher than centre of bowl . Have a little watch back and your see at some points your cutting about 10mm obove centre. ( outside stay obove centre, inside stay below centre) . I found this out from watching someone explaining it and it really does make a difference.. but Al said you bowl look great 👍
Thanks Ken! I usually err on the side of being too high rather than too low, and I also have a hard time keeping the carbide tools horizontal. I don't use them much so get out of practice
@@LisaRamlow I only just got my first carbide set last month so have been watching lots of people using them lol tou tubes great for info .Will have to get some negative rack bits tho as these ones seem so aggressive they are scary to use
That texture is referred to as orange peel. It is from not applying a wet enough coat and the finish does not flow out. Though there's a fine line between a smooth finish and runs.
Yeah I was trying to do quick light coats like it said on the can but even the first coat had that texture. I am also thinking it might be too cold - my shop is quite cool all year round and I may have better luck putting the shellac outside to get up to at least 70-75° before I use it
Leather dye works good on wood.
Hi Steve! I've not tried leather dye yet
Why did you pin the drill chuck to the quill? The proper way to do it is to get a long piece of threaded metal and thread it through the hole in the tail stock and into the tapped thread in the back end of the Morse taper chuck. The end of the chuck is threaded for this reason. Then fasten the end of the long threaded metal rod using a wing nut. This secures the chuck and if something goes wrong it prevents the chuck from coming out of the quill. This way also means that the chuck is not going to destroy the quill or anything else if the chuck starts free spinning. This is slightly hard to explain in words but it’s how I do it.
Because my chuck is not threaded. None of the 3 I have are threaded, including a good Jacob's chuck. I use a draw bar on my collet chuck in the headstock so I know what you're talking about it's just not what I have. And if Lyle Jamieson drills a hole to pin his chuck on a Robust American Beauty I don't think I'm gonna hurt my Laguna 🤷♀️
@@LisaRamlow PSI woodworking makes a chuck that accepts a draw bolt. I'd be worried about it spinning out without the draw bolt in place. And I personally wouldn't consider drilling holes into my lathe, but to each their own. :D
As always, beautiful work, Lisa. And handsome Bailey, too!
Hi Crystal! Bailey sez hello as well! 🐾
Turned out very nice. Be blessed until the next video
Thanks Michael! Hey I think I'm in your neck of the woods this weekend. Marie is doing the Talbot Street Art Fair and why is it so hot? 🤣
@LisaRamlow where you are going is 2 hours and 45 minutes from me. I love up in northern Indiana in Elkhart about 10 minutes from the State line
@LisaRamlow how is the Art Fair going on this hot weekend
Great nub removal Lisa....I love tge smell of ash when you turn it...
Thank you! I love the smell of pretty much all the wood, except butternut when it's wet and cottonwood.
Forgot to add with the airbrush you can shoot fades this can be done by controlling the flow of the medium if you have a two-stage airbrush
Good to know, thanks Arthur! I've no experience with an airbrush so this is very helpful 😃
Beautiful piece nicely done I like watching your videos. May I make some suggestions, don't send past 320. Sometimes I'll stop at 220. Always wet the Grain and knock it down twice and last but not least get a cheap airbrush Harbor Freight has some and you can buy them online. Also when shooting acrylics I always use a flow control medium this makes it easier to move the paint and control its absorption. And a lot of times will stop the blotching.
Thanks Arthur! I found that the dye really accentuates any scratches in the wood - this piece was a little more opaque than some of the others I did so it didn't really show up so much, but I agree the dyes probably penetrate better when it's sanded to 220 or 320. I don't have an airbrush yet but it is on my list for sure 👍
Good morning. You do some amazing work. You have way more knowledge than I but because of me being new I’ve made plenty of boo boos. I’ve learned like @johnmitchell1641 said, stepping up in bit sizes help greatly. I’ve also found that when the bits still spin no matter how tight you lock them in, check the Jacobs chuck. I’ve found the three teeth start grinding down and the grip gets lost. It’s marred my bits and won’t hold tight anymore. I’ve had to replace twice already and noticed it each time. I bought a higher quality chuck and it’s lasted much longer.
Thanks Clyde! In this case, since I have the Jacob's chuck (and this is a cheapish Powertec soooo) pinned I think it's ok if the bit spins some - something has to be the weak link in case of disaster 🤣
I would have leaned into the color gradient lines by adding a groove at the line. And, I'd have colored the groove...probably a lightly blue/gray tinted white...or metalic gold or metalic copper even. If you don't like it, ACCENT IT
Hi Michael! That's an excellent tactic and makes a lot of sense, which is probably why I didn't do it 🤪
OMG, don't be so self deprecating. You really have a lot of skill. And, while' I've done a bit of coloring in my turnings, you actually know what you are doing. I'm just learning.
I'm mostly kidding. But I do think it's a great philosophy
Hi Lisa, nice pot there. Boring a large diameter hole can be problematic on a lathe, I know cuz I've been there. I start with a smaller bit, 1", then 1 1/2" and so on. There's a lot of friction created with those big boring bits and I find this helps immensely. Best regards. 🙃
Thanks John! I always figured having the point of the forstner bit engaged was helpful but it may not make that much difference.
@@LisaRamlow You're right Lisa, it's one purpose is to locate the bit on centre. You could probably (but wouldn't) grind the centering point off and it would not make a jot of difference. It's the lifters and the outer spurs that do the necessary damage that is required, ie, make a finished to size hole. They're not really Forstner bits. Forstners bore a flat bottomed hole, apart from the irritating centre conical hole. Anyway, blah blah, I could go on for ages. Oh yeah, WOOF WOOF! Best regards. 🙃
New to your channel. Why do some turners beat the crap out of themselves and their tools by turning square stock round instead of knocking off the corners before mounting? Have been doing this over 40 yrs and there is no way my body would still be working well if I did that daily. I did enjoy seeing how you colored your work. Take care of your body- woodworking is harder on the body than people think.
If you have the piece balanced enough to get the speed up a little it doesn't bear you up too badly. I have a bandsaw (though many do not) but most times I find it faster to just knock the corners off on the lathe. As I get older I may change that but for now I don't find it terribly difficult.
Oh Lisa it's been awhile....stop it with the wood colouring though I must admit the end selection was very nice
You're so bossy! 🤣
Can’t BELIEVE you’re wearing gloves… DANGEROUS!
You must be really busy if you're calling out all the turners wearing gloves
Beagle Bailey! Beetle Bailey😃❤
My sweet boy ❤️
I have the Nova post system with the flat rest, and a couple other rests. The flat rest is wonderful for marking, drilling, section work, etc. I have D-way tool rests (non-modular) for my every day rests. Sand the “orange peel” with 800+ grit or 3-M pad.
Hi Valerie! I have the Laguna rest plus 2 RoboHippy curved ones - I was definitely lacking the 4" (though the 6" is nice too!) and the box rest. When I first started turning I looked at the PSI modular system but just didn't feel comfortable with it
Lisa. I am so Joy to see you back in the swing again. Lisa how the Should and life in general? How the weather been for you Two? Love the New Tool rest you Added. Please be Safe. Gory of Ohio
Thanks Greg!
Lisa, have you thought about trying Waterlox Truetone? It comes in a bunch of different colors and it not only seals the wood but it tints it as well. And it gives that nice shine that you're looking for. 😊
Hi Micah! I haven't looked into that - I've used the regular Waterlox in the past though and it's a nice product 👍
When you finally break down and buy the Oneway banjo, you'll wonder why you waited so long. Soooo worth the money you'll spend.
I'm sure it's amazing. I keep working on that lottery but so far....nothing 🤣
@@LisaRamlow I feel the same way about wanting to buy the rest of the Oneway lathe. I love the banjo so much, I'm sure I'd love the full machine. I don't sell nearly enough bowls to afford that...
Me neither dude, me neither! 🤣
Don't worry Bailey, she didn't mean to call you old. We all get old...
It's a little freaky - he's gonna be 8 in July, and when he goes completely white in the face as beagles do, he's gonna look like a baby seal with that dark eyeliner. His lashes are going white too 🥺
Cindy Drozda showed how to use two brushes with the 2 colors to brush on your finish. The brushes allowed blending extremely well.
Thanks Scott, I'll do some more looking at Cindy's channel 👍
the color makes it look like glazed pottery... very cool!
Thank you! I've got lots more experimenting to do but I'm quite pleased with how these are coming out 😃
Lovely bunch of colored bowls, they look awesome and so does Bailey, thanks! Cheers Al
Thanks Al, as Bailey sez you have most excellent taste 🐾
Came out very nice. Well done!
Thanks Doug!
Nice piece. I use a lot of intrinsic dyes, and it pulls colour as well . The texture from the shellac looks like orange peel.
I'm glad to know the intrinsic dyes do it as well. I had the same problem using the TransFast powder. Just gotta get it sealed - doesn't seem like that should be much trouble 🤣
Thats a gorgeous vase!! I love all the natural coloring, Mother Nature sure knows how to use her paint brush well!❤
Thank you! I do love the natural look as well
lovely Gorgeous work and colors 3 tonne Beautiful . lovely like Blue gray on top and the style been pot cooking been maples syrup
Thank you! I'm gonna keep playing with the dyes and get sort out how to get a better transition between colors and shades, but overall I'm pretty happy 😃
I think it's a good one Lisa. Yeah, transitioning colors is difficult. Keep 'em coming. Take care. -Mike
Hi Mike! Hope you're doing well!
@@LisaRamlow We're all just peachy ! 🍑 I forgot to say "Perhaps the lacquer problem is 'orange peel' ? (I've never done lacquer but I was around cars a lot in the old days. Orange peel is due to too cold or too humid IIRC
Yeah orange peel definitely describes it. I tried to do really light coats but it is also pretty chilly in the shop so could be temp too
Once you have coated with lacquer, you are basically doing automotive body work. They get a perfect surface without melting the lacquer by using black, wet-or-dry silicon carbide sandpaper, wet with water. Something like 600 grit should take the orange peel texture down, with minimal lacquer removal.
I have a bunch of good wet/dry sandpaper, I'll try that with the shellac next time. I haven't used lacquer yet but do have a spray can of that as well. Might have to try it, I just hate spraying the stinky stuff in the shop
If you started with a spit coat of sealer first, you might get might get a more even penetration from your color.
Hi Chris! I've tried doing a thin coat of shellac before the color and it didn't help much. I do understand what I'm doing with the paint isn't necessarily what it's meant for and actual dye might work better, but this is cheap and easy and I'm having a blast experimenting. I've just gotta reign in my expectations a bit 🤣
I have been experimenting with dyes. It is difficult to get an even color on the wood. I usually finish with shellac.. 4 coats sanded lightly between coats..it works will for me..nice work..
Thank for the input! Wood does not always do like we want it to 🤣
Looking real good Lisa nice job your new post looks like it works good to
Thank you, so far I'm really pleased!
Best Wood Tools are high quality. I've been pleased with everything I've gotten from them. Having said that, I'm not a fan of their modular tool rest system (with the exception of the box rest). The reason has nothing to do with quality. Those puppies are well made! Instead, the round bar tool rest cannot be placed as close to the work as can a typical tool rest. That is, taking the 1" round bar rests as an example, the closest you can get to your work is 1/2". (Your tool is supported at the top of the rest, which is at least 1/2" away from the work.) Compare that with, say, a Robust tool rest. You can adjust the rest so the support of your tool is much closer to the work. For most things, Best Wood Tools tool rests work very well. They get your tool close enough to do the job. Where they fail me is doing fine work using a 1/4" skew (or similarly small tools). It's hard to extend such tools very far over the tool rest without getting chatter. That's it. It's my only criticism of Best Wood Tools' modular tool rests. YMMV.
Hahaha yes well I suck at the skew so that shouldn't be an issue for me 🤪 I do understand your point though and that makes sense. I have RoboHippy curved tool rests that I normally use and those are made like the Laguna and Robust rests so I have option in the event I need to get right up close and personal with a finial or something 👍
Doing small items like finials, allows you to wrap your hand around the round post and support the wood when working
I see what you mean about the lines. Of course your lathe is spinning in a circle. What if when you are ready to apply the color you moved it off center in your chuck just a bit?
Hi Dan! That's an option. I'm not unhappy with the transition between color being linear per se, more that I couldn't get the edges to blend more evenly. Gonna try some different application techniques and see if I can blur it better. I also wonder about sealing the part I've done with a light coat of spray shellac before moving to the next color 🤔
@@LisaRamlow foam brush might allow for less sharp lines. Don't you know any artists you could ask? LOL
LOL I did actually try a foam brush. The natural bath sponge worked best of what I tried but I also have more closed cell foam makeup sponge things I can try too.
Very beautiful Lisa.
Thanks Jack, I appreciate it!
I had similar issues and gave up. I've gone to airbrush & stains. Works great ....... after a small learning curve.
Hi Louis! Yes an airbrush is on my list and has been for some time but still haven't done it yet
I have so much to say that I barely made it to the end before commenting. First, hug that Bailey. Been missing my Kiwi a lot, lately. Nearly two years, also. Second, ahh, that shellac pulling off colour. Once I'm done blending with just water or alcohol I'll spray my finish on, and often get the bumpiness you mentioned with shellac. If I thin it to at least 1lb, or thinner, it works. But, that likes to clog or seize an airbrush, similar to Mixol. I just tried it for the first time, two weeks ago. I'm sure it has some advantages, but it wasn't as airbrush friendly as ColorFX or other liquid pigments I've liked. And a bit of blending can be done after, but I try to get it right with the airbrush, but it's not always perfect. You really had a fight with the hard delineations that showed up. Very nice video and set of colourful pieces, Lisa!
Thanks Jay, and Bailey sends his best baroooooo! I don't have an airbrush or HVLP system but it's been on the back burner list for a while now. I think dyed pieces will finish much easier with spray but I guess every method has it issues
Pigment inks and paints are insoluble, watering it down won't make it absorb into the wood any better, because the particle size of pigment is massive compared to dyes. As such it lays on the surface rather than soak in to any degree,. Which is why any sanding mostly removes the pigment/colour. I've not used spray shellac but I have used automotive lacquers occasionally. Tthe surface texture you mention looks similar to the same effect you get when applying too much lacquer in one go, it looks like 'oarage peel' ie the surface of an orange. With lacquer if it looks wet when applying, chances are you've already applied to much , maybe the same applies to srpay shellac. Super thin wispy coats, touch dry between coats.
Thanks Tom! Generally I've been happy enough with the diluted paint as a dye, and have been able to get it sealed enough to finish. I tried to spray the shellac in short bursts at the right distance because that was my first thought - too heavy a coat. And that may still be true but I couldn't get it to go on any differently so 🤷♀️. Maybe for future decorative dyed pieces I'll look into other finishing option that can be sprayed. I don't have an airbrush or HVLP setup at the moment but maybe at some point. Thanks for the input!
Hey Lisa nice work! I’m a turner as well as a painter (oil/acrylic). My advice would be to blend wet into wet. The acrylic dries naturally fast however with as much as you are diluting it the paint should stay wet long enough to blend out the edges. Hope that helps. -Ken
Thanks Ken! I didn't have that much trouble with the others I did - I think I just didn't thin it out enough initially. And the wood just doesn't always do what you want it to - I'm learning to let it be what it wants to be 🤣
Great video, Lisa. Especially Bailey.
Bailey sez he appreciates that you understand that HE is the star of this show 🐶