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• 
  @MrGsnick20 сағат бұрын

  Hey Tony Trying to get through to you regarding this motor thing

• 
  @jamiedawson7061Күн бұрын

  Thank you for this video - I have the part but CANNOT work out how to get the black cover detached from the compressor! Please can someone help?!

• 
  @beantsifulКүн бұрын

  Fantastic fault finding, how do i contact you for service ?

• 
  @gazzrobb23662 күн бұрын

  I only get the code if I plug it into a extension cable it works perfectly plugged into the wall socket?

• 
  @beantsiful2 күн бұрын

  HOW do we contact you for services ?

• 
  @simmo7724 күн бұрын

  Brilliant - same problem on my AEG and easy fix (once you’d explained). Buying a soldering iron was a lot cheaper than replacing the machine. Thank you 👏🏻

• 
  @jklee6244 күн бұрын

  Thank you! It did fix my fan but I noticed the black foam inside crumbled. What’s the purpose of the black foam? Do I need to replace it?

• 
  @tibipoka64674 күн бұрын

  Hi, Im trying to fire it up from a variac , and around 100v(240v model) makes a weird noise like a transformer.. an im cared to get to 240 v ...

• 
  @gauravjc814 күн бұрын

  Need to convert soundtouch 30 from 110v to 220v will the same method work or is there a change ? Pls guide .. thx 😊

• 
  @nicolasgobet38075 күн бұрын

  Thank you for the video (as well as the other one). Do you know if there are models without that relay? my wire go from the power supply pcb to the water sensor relay to the heater.

• 
  @RobSchofield5 күн бұрын

  Blimey, it's like hearing my own voice and thought patterns! Excellent.

• 
  @samd32316 күн бұрын

  Bravo apparently there are quite a few videos which talk about this problem.... The trick is to have the equipment to be able to do the same thing which is not at all obvious, would you have by chance put set up a small business selling aluminum washers MDR in any case well done !!! Bravo apparemment il y a pas mal de vidéos qui parlent de ce problème.... Le truc et d'avoir le matériel pour pouvoir faire la même chose ce qui n'est pas du tout évident est-ce que par hasard vous auriez mis en place un petit commerce de vente de rondelles d'aluminium MDR en tout cas bravo !!!

• 
  @jeffchin112710 күн бұрын

  Thanks for this informative vid. I agree with U about how disgraceful it is to have to throw to landfill. You inspired me to have a go replacing the brushes, so if anyone needs tips on that and the specs... kzread.info/dash/bejne/e3pnktxtqc20hqw.htmlfeature=shared Thanks again

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  Thanks. That is useful.

• 
  @jamcguire10010 күн бұрын

  60MOhm leak to Earth at 220-240V is not enough to trip a domestic RCD. It's 0.0000036A or 0.0036mA. You need 30mA to trip a domestic RCD. That reading doesn't indicate an element failure to me?

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  It is the distinction between failure and leakage. There should be no leakage and the fact that there is indicates there is a fault in the element. The conductive path should not be there. It is an indication that when this thing gets hot it is much more likely to cause a short to ground. In a domestic situation with a singe RCD in a consumer unit protecting the whole or part of a wiring system, the 30mA leakage current limit for is not the limit for a single appliance . It is cumulative across appliances. I have often been called to Ghost RCD tripping where no single appliance is to blame for random trips.

• 
  @vic630411 күн бұрын

  Worked a treat!;) thankyiu

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  You're welcome! Glad it was useful. I love my machine!!!

• 
  @danlux495412 күн бұрын

  Is there a fuse inside?

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  Likely yes. But to be honest I cant remember. If the fuse blows then invariably the electronics are toast.

• 
  @danlux49549 күн бұрын

  @@razenby I’ve used it 4 times and it’s fairly new.

• 
  @Indiskret112 күн бұрын

  I got the first model of the MX5 (1049) and it's better constructed. This newer (and more expensive, fancy that!) version is obviously built as cheap as possible, The 1049 model of the MX5 have several filter coils on the primary side, MOV, diodes and resistors are through hole. A lot more going on to protect the charger. Larger cooling plates. Whole layout is different. 1049 also has a large silicon gasket which seals it from water ingress completely. Only thing functionally different is that the 1049 only has 4 programs, you can't combine small battery with recond for example. Being a Swede I actually tried to call and talk to the company because I had some technical questions, but they were totally uninterested in any "normal" customer contact. I got 2 newer models of the MX5, I'll have to take a look inside those too. I've been using mostly the more expensive MX5 Polar (-30C model) for the last couple of years and it's still working good, but huge thanks for this great video which will help immensely if I run into problems!

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  Thanks, For all that I believe they are a vastly overpriced unreliable design.

• 
  @jedkhan-o7c13 күн бұрын

  Hi, really enjoyed your video and creative repair of the milk frothed but how do you check the thyristor and where do I get a replacement thermocouple? Thanks for the videos which are great.

• 
  @bradsg346514 күн бұрын

  I’m having a similar issue, car has overheated and I’ve realised that the radiator fan isn’t working as it is usually constantly running when the A/C is on and it now isn’t. I’ve also had the engine up to temperature and the fan still won’t kick in. I’ve tested the relay and can hear it clicking so presume that’s okay. I’ve got 14v to the connector for the fan motor when the engine is running. So I believe it to be the fan motor. I bought a fan from a breakers. Put 12v to it and it worked so I fitted it. It worked for about 5 minutes before it stopped working. I did all the same tests again and they were all fine, presumed faulty fan from the breakers. Took the fan out and when connecting 12v to it, it runs, but it doesn’t run well. I went and got another fan motor from U-PULL-IT as I wanted to test whether this would act the same and it does. The fan will run with 12v from a battery but won’t run when in the car. The fan blades turn freely and aren’t restricted. The plug looks fine so the power is definitely getting there. Any thoughts?

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  It sound most likely that you have a sticky or intermittent relay or an intermittent break in the wiring . Easy to overcome by trial. Run a fused wire to the fan and a switch to check the fan itself is reliable if you establish that change the relay and run a new wires for the relay and feed wires to the fan. Have you checked the ECT with an ODB reader. Could it be the temperature sensor messing with you?

• 
  @bradsg34659 күн бұрын

  @@razenby thank you for your response! I’ll do what you’ve suggested and I may as well get a new relay and temp sensor and go from there!

• 
  @williamchoga-lp5nr15 күн бұрын

  Thanks for this video! For a while, I thought I was me doing something wrong! I bought xw6 and hbd366 rolls, they were all melting at lead free temp 😮 My intended use for it was to make lead free desoldering more easy. Now, I'm thinking of buying bismuth sticks.

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  If you want to make lead free desoldering easier then just add some 60/40 leaded flux core solder to the joint. It considerably lowers the melting point and renders it very workable. Don't forget a good iron makes all the difference. I run with a Weller as in my experience it can deliver a lot of power to the tip.

• 
  @waeld423415 күн бұрын

  Do you still have a spare?

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  No sorry. I used to supply them but just got inundated with questions. You can buythe parts on Aliexpress

• 
  @ryeguy8815 күн бұрын

  Did you bother locking the flywheel for when you torque the crank back down?

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  Yes- see video - I took the starter out and locked the flywheel with a locking tool. The problem with the ford is the TDC flywheel pin that screws in from the back of the block is very thin and easily bent. If you can get a socket on the crank pulley bolt you might be able to get away with using an impact driver without the ring gear locking tool fitted. Good luck. The most important thing to remember is to hand crank over and check the timing is correct before you start the engine..

• 
  @vinmon123416 күн бұрын

  where are you located I need one fixed

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  Reading , UK

• 
  @vinmon12346 күн бұрын

  Australia

• 
  @shiblydangdang16 күн бұрын

  Legend! Exact same problem. Fixed within 24 hours with a part from Amazon.

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  Thanks for watching. Mine has seen many hours of shredding action but it is still soldiering on. However, It is starting to sound a yang, yang, yang so time to open it up and grease the gears again!! Actually my wife said it sounded Yum, Yum, Yum, Yum and now that is all I can hear when I use it.

• 
  @TimRedgewell18 күн бұрын

  I have exactly the same issue and it was really helpful (and entertaining) to see this video. You mentioned that you have parts available and I'd love to be able to purchase the 47ohm resistor and the Power Integrations chip from you. Is this still possible?

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  Yes, sorry for late replay - I was on vacation. [email protected]

• 
  @repsych18 күн бұрын

  Hello and thanks! I build speakers and can't stand those connectors. I will only solder the wires directly to the driver's tabs once the final assembly is made. Are JBL even doing any soak testing to identify potential problems like this?

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  I don't believe do very much design testing at all. Talking RMS voltages: The products work much better more reliably 120V mains not to bad on continental 230V (which usally runs at around 220V by the way). However the UK typically has about 245V and a lower supply impedance and so is able to deliver a much higher in rush surge when powering up.. The peak voltage when rectified to the SMPS B+ rail is 1.41x25V = 35 DC volts higher and when you add a transient on top of that ......

• 
  @dewarmc18 күн бұрын

  I've got an old Zanussi Electrolux ZDF 231 S which has for the first time, just started to trip the RCD in the consumer unit, so I shall bear in mind what you have said and go exploring the cause, good advice, thank you.

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  Good luck.

• 
  @simonluck447020 күн бұрын

  @razenby Just suffered the same problem - tripped the RCD. Do you have any more heating element imports left and are you still maintaining these systems all these years later? Please could you drop me an email so I can contact directly? Thanks!

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Hi Simon yes I am still maintaining them in the flats that I own. [email protected]

• 
  @skepticalexicon353421 күн бұрын

  The pressure switches tend to get scaled up and get jammed

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Good tip. Mine has worked ever since the episode in the video.

• 
  @elitefdc217122 күн бұрын

  why dont use the sucker in the 1st place? melt 1 pin, suck melt 1 pin, suck

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  It wont free the pin as the solder cant be sucked out with the pin in place. Suck, suck, suck get nowhere!!!

• 
  @sh1z3r6323 күн бұрын

  Hi, I have eon 515xt with unusual fault. There is a problem with hf amp section. Sometimes it have no or very little hf output and most of the time the hf output compared to another speaker is very little lower. I checked the power supply voltage across this big capacitors seems ok there is couple volts difference. This big resistor near the hf amp seems ok too. The hf amp is getting 49v across VP+ VP- and 24,5 from them to ground. I checked the frequency characteristic and it had little differences compared to good amp module. The differences are around 1,7khz and 12-15khz. For example when good one was giving 11,1v at 12khz the broken one gives 10,5v with the same signal and when good one is giving 2,8v at 1,7khz the broken one gives 2,2v. I have it dissembled and I really can't force it to fault I tried heating the mixing board with hair drier and it was still working ok. What should I check?

• 
  @sh1z3r6323 күн бұрын

  And thanks for these videos and your help i repaired my eon 510 it had a broken eq switch. I found out about it from the comments under your video.

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  N problem. HF faults are rare and are invariably caused by bad HF driver, However you may have a failed 33078 IC in the HF dynamic filter on the preamp / input board.

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  @sh1z3r6317 күн бұрын

  @@razenbyHF driver seems ok. I have checked the mixing board and one 33078 IC have 12v across pin 1 and 7, it is the one in the top left corner of the input side of the board. I have a problem finding the replacement, texas ones have 16mhz and +-18V max power supply. In poland I found only MC33078D from STMicroelectronics they have 15Mhz and +-15V max power supply. Do you think they will be ok? They are getting something around 14,93V now but I'm a little worried about voltage getting to high on this.

• 
  @thefreelance199023 күн бұрын

  Hi this is compatible for sounddock portable?

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  No Sorry.

• 
  @thefreelance199016 күн бұрын

  @@razenby thank you

• 
  @JeffinTD23 күн бұрын

  Interesting. I’ve had a couple D2’s quit. Now I wonder about water ingress.

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Interesting, to have one is unlucky. Two is a problem. What is up with them?

• 
  @JeffinTD19 күн бұрын

  First one the high temp light came on. Directions say basically unplug it until it’s cooler, but even when cool as soon as you plug it in the temp light came on and no output. Replaced under warranty. The replacement worked for a while but when I noticed it didn’t seem to be working. The power led would blink on and off. If you unplug and plug it back in, it would boot up and the status light might do a couple slow blinks (normal) then it would go back to power led flashing. Amp meter showed 0.02 amp output. Fuse is good, and behaves the same when connected to a different battery. Seems to be cycling in and out of standby mode. Still under warranty, so I paid to mail that one back too. Since they were both sent back, I didn’t attempt to disassemble or diagnose.

• 
  @navinkv00724 күн бұрын

  Can you pls share a link to buy screwdriver

• 
  @navinkv00724 күн бұрын

  I’m getting red blinking light. What’s your suggestion? Also pls share components to buy. URL?

• 
  @navinkv00724 күн бұрын

  Please share me AliExpress link. It will really help me. Thank you.

• 
  @mrBDeye24 күн бұрын

  Use a suction bulb and you’ll not waste solder.

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  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  If you had ever tried this the you would know how impossible it is,,,,

• 
  @richardhart648025 күн бұрын

  Wow you’ve saved me a lot of grief been trying to fault find this for hours , stumbled across you video removed the switch and limp mode was deactivated, just waiting for new switch now

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  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Great job, Glad it was useful. The B class is still going at 188K miles. Pulls like a train...Incredibly reliable car. That switch is the only electrical fault that I have ever had on the car.

• 
  @vogelek2326 күн бұрын

  Hi, my unit blinks 5 times with both source LEDs when connected to mains (which means hardware error due to the manufacturer's website) then it does only react to remote (flashes the corresponding source LED). No sound, no beeps, BT module LEDs do not lit up. What could be the problem?

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  Do you hear the Beep-Bloop tones when you apply power?

• 
  @vogelek2310 күн бұрын

  @@razenby No beep. Found short circuit on TDF8599 output which means the amp chip was faulty. Replaced with TDF8597 and all works now.

• 
  @Citizen394228 күн бұрын

  Will ICE5BR4780BZ work as well for replacement? The ICE3Bxx65J is EOL... If it is not a drop in replace, what should be done to make it work? Is this newer replacemnt more resilient in terms of bootstrap currents?

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  No it wont. Pin out is different. The ICE3Bxx65J is quite an old chip with Jitter clock to mitigate EMI and make it easier for cheap designs to meet mandatory requirements. I cant find an obvious replacement. Usually there are end of life bulletins that answer the question of the alternatives going forward but I can find one. The best bet is to email Infineon tech support.

• 
  @oldiggyАй бұрын

  Just repaired my Karcher k3 the plastic cylinder head split leaking water, it’s 4yrs old so 4 seasons of just washing patio. Cost £50 for head and elbow but head is same part number not modified so same problem is going to happen. In my naivety I thought karcher was German but looking at everyone’s faults it just Chinese plastic shyte !

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Good info. Thanks. Mine is still working ...

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  @nudebaboon4874Ай бұрын

  Good to know!👍

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Thanks for watching!

• 
  @michaelroche6298Ай бұрын

  The problem with your karcher is the pressure relief valve is sticking. This is located below the pipe for the soap feed. The piston needs removing and lubricating.

• 
  @sierushop27 күн бұрын

  Yeah, exactly. But I wouldn't say it's a pressure 'relief' valve. It's more like a plastic spring-loaded sliding pin that's underneath the soap suction hose coupler. And yes, its function is to turn the motor on or off once the trigger gun is depressed or released. In this video kzread.info/dash/bejne/aXuFyo-Yf6u1l84.html at 14:10 they show and lubricate this plastic sliding pin.

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  @michaelroche629827 күн бұрын

  @@sierushop this valve is activated by a level of pressure caused by no loss of pressure through the lance when the lance leaver is released. I would only lubricate the valve with silicone grease. The rest of the switch should be dry as the grease here will pickup dirt causing it to stick and the nylon is self lubricating anyway. I repaired my k2 by just lubricating the white plastic valve. Hope this helps.

• 
  @sierushop26 күн бұрын

  @@michaelroche6298 Thanks for your reply. I made a comment on this because when I looked up 'pressure relief valve' on pressure washers, I found something else.

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Thanks for the info, Mine has worked faultlessy ever since whatever got stuck in the contacts was dislodged, If it happens again I will check and report.

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  @playstation2bigsАй бұрын

  Which is better Noco genius 5 made in Vietnam or China ?

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Cant say,. My experience of products manufactured in Vietnam has been positive so far. My Chinese contacts tole me that mos of the key technical staff relocate along with the production line.

• 
  @MrSensible2Ай бұрын

  Hi, can you help me please? I have a Hotpoint integrated dishwasher. After 11 years of sterling service, it has started to play up. The problem first appeared a couple of weeks ago, when the dishwasher refused point blank to turn on. I changed the 13A fuse in the main plug & the dishwasher powered up as normal. It then went through a full Eco cycle with both heating cycles taking the normal wattage (typically 2.3kW) for the usual amount of time. However after completing what looks like a normal 3½ hour cycle, the fuse in the plug had blown again! Not wanting to faff about, I ordered a new updated version of my dishwasher from Hotpoint. It was delivered okay but when the guys tried to fit it, they physically couldn't! They reckon the guy that fitted our new kitchen 11 years ago effectively built it AROUND the dishwasher! Thankfully the people at Hotpoint were very understanding & gave me a full refund. However, now I'm a bit stuck. If I had some idea of what's causing this issue, maybe there's a chance it could be repaired with the machine remaining in situ. Failing that I guess I'm going to have to get someone in to dismantle bits of the kitchen to get the old one out but this seems a such of a drastic step! Thanks for any advice you might be able to share.

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Do you have an RCD in your Distribution Panel? If so the likely problem is a short in the mains input filter or the ion the heating element in the soap dispenser tray. If not then it is likely a short to earth inside the heating element. If you have an RCD then this fault will cause it to trip and not blow the fuse. The filter can be unplugged so you can run the dishwasher and rule it out. Otherwise you can disconnect the heating element and run it to see if the fuse still blows.

• 
  @MrSensible219 күн бұрын

  @@razenby Thanks for your help but in the end, with wifey getting fed up of waiting, I called in a kitchen fitter to get the old dishwasher out, which he managed to do. The new one gets delivered on Monday & the kitchen fitter returns on Tuesday to put it in place. Hopefully this will be the end of this sorry saga...at least until the next time it breaks down!

• 
  @mostlyindicaАй бұрын

  Really enjoyed this, thank you.

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Glad you enjoyed it!

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  @DIET_ALIGARHАй бұрын

  can it measure current below 100micro amps

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Yes.

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  @playstation2bigsАй бұрын

  Does the pulse repair mode have automatic shutting "OFF" display when pulse repair completed? Or they run forever ?

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Providing the battery responds the pulse charge process will progresses through the normal charge cycle.. By respond I mean the terminal voltage increases.

• 
  @jetamorsolovideosАй бұрын

  Btw I am working with the Soundock 10 and there's no voltage in the secondary. Can you help me get all the components that you just replaced in your video? It would be a great help. Thank you.

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  Yes I can. We have them in stock. [email protected]

• 
  @jetamorsolovideosАй бұрын

  Thank you

• 
  @razenby10 күн бұрын

  You're welcome

• 
  @SaidGherbiАй бұрын

  Awesome video mate, took me less than 5 minutes, took it off adjusted the length and cleaned it as it wasn’t broken and it’s working like it should.

• 
  @razenby19 күн бұрын

  Good Job. Thanks for watching.

• 
  @barrysmith8538Ай бұрын

  I have replaced the 1k resistor which was O/C but when selector switch is turned there is still no flashing light. I have recheck the resistor and found it is normal so hasn’t gone O/C. The chip physically looks ok so is there anything else which could be the cause?