I upload DIY & How-to videos covering everything from paint & body work to engines to interior and electrical - I do it all, right here in my residential garage. Some of the vehicles regularly featured on the channel include: 1994 Land Cruiser, 1985 Toyota 4x4 Pickup, 1980 Toyota Long Bed (and many more 80's Toyota trucks) 1988 Acura Legend, 2009 Toyota Camry, 2011 Ford Edge, 2001 BMW 740i, 1981 Mercedes 380SEL, 2006 Honda Aquatrax, 1986 John Deere 318, a 1998 Honda Accord converted into an El Camino for the Gambler 500, and many more! In between projects, I'm slowly building my dream garage. I also film off roading, racing, cars, trucks or whatever else I'm building/destroying in my garage.
I don't have Patreon but you can support the channel with merchandise from the store and get some rad gear: 6thgeargarage.net/merchandise/
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$100 in materials and in 5 hours you could have a 60 amp circuit to run a 240 volt welder.
I bought a 220 mig since this video and it’s so much better for welding frames 👍
Thank you for this video. I have the skills to do all this but just didn't know where to start. 😊
what brand is the sanding block? Any idea where they sell them?
It’s a very old 3m block. Here’s a modern version on Amazon amzn.to/3dATBIm
awesome technique. What is the half round metal block you put down?
Not sure what metal block, did you mean the curved sanding block? It’s a very stiff rubber. amzn.to/3dATBIm
When you spray it must look wet when spraying.Spray painter.
Should have used a needle to clean spray nobs.
Wouldn’t it have been easier to just use the DA orbital with the sanding paper vs having to do it all by hand ?? Just seems like too much labor for a budget build. I just had my old Truck touched up and auto painter did an alright job. I wanna wet sand with a DA to polish it up, but don’t wanna spend all that time doing it by hand
Yeah you can use a da if you’re careful. This video is intended for beginners who probably don’t have a da, so I only hand sanded.
I have rear disc brakes not drum.do you know if there is much difference in removing the wheel bearing
I think it would be a similar process, but you’ll probably have to unbolt the caliper.
Looks great you are a decent welder
Thanks 👍 decent is a compliment to me 😀
At least you got a floor
to save yourself some effort with bondo., either do only skim coats that need little sanding., or do a primary build up , then at the point when it turns to a stiff play dough, quickly and neatly take it down to a nice sandable point then let it flash. but im not even sure Bondo is necessary tbh,. loctite is good., but there's an automotive and marine grade caned foam too, probably a bit better. made by Evercoat.. & there's got to be a better option than bondo.. thats going to pop eventually. ,need a product thats going to end up a bit more flexible,. a rubberized primer also might help ., and ps,. those cracks are filled with filler not bondo,. ., its much softer , super light weight
Excellent videos 👍👍
Thank you!
My '86 has the Cali one piece ones, would love to score some with vents!
I love the vent windows, great when you don’t have AC.
Hello, would it be advisable to loosely mask off the top of your car to keep over spray off the good area?
Yes, you could do that. The clear I used is softer than the oem paint, so any overspray was buffed away.
This video sucks. I wasted $200 on all these spray cans when I could just go and pay people at the shop to do it for $150
If there is a shop doing it for 150, I would go there before I bought everything to do it myself. 150 is a good price.
I wonder if water-based polyurethane spray would work.
I’m not sure, I have never used water based polyurethane.
Crap welding. I can do better with a welding rod up my ass.
amazing. BUT...... don't rinse acid directly onto your drive way ( asphalt is ok not concrete )
muhaaaaaaaaaaaaa ,what a noob style with 100 of spray can 🤣
I get wanting to fill the crack on good foam, but I simply can’t get behind channeling the crack, thereby making it larger. Almost every video I’ve seen features that method and it seems way too invasive.
Yeah it does remove a lot of material, but all the weak uv-damaged foam has to go. Also because the crack is usually crowned due to the surface warping up, so it needs to be widened/flattened back out.
fix a wheel way better than a dash board. LOL
The crowd in this video is on point😂😂😂
The crowd 100% made the video great
My son rolled ours yesterday and my DIL had no idea they are made to roll. No damage to the son or grizzly. Lol. But I came to find videos to show her and I watched this one over and over laughing at the crowd. 🤣
@@mountaineermama8052 yeah, they can take a beating... the quad and the kids. at my age I learned to bail and let it go... not worth getting too hurt to save a machine.
the whole truck body will rust down to the ground before that engine will quit.22R bullet proof.
Are the spare fuses at the bottom of the panel not powered? If they are powered why wouldn’t you use one of those instead of the piggy back? Thanks for any info
Yeah, they are just spare fuses in case one of the others blow. They aren't powered.
It was actually 10x easier to take the seal out this way than when I had completely removed the 3rd member. LOL
If there's an easier way, I'm doing it!
lol I spent more on the motor phase 3 yota1 for my 93 yota than you spent on that truck the whole time you had it and that dont even begin to count the Haltech ecu and dash
My girlfriend and I are going to try.
Can't get the passenger side caliper to turn in and can't get the screws off the rotors. Guess I need special tools 😡
Can you guys suggest me a good website to import the OG Land Cruiser from ?
What's the bolt length for the AC bracket bolts that go on the bottom right? do you know?
Sorry, I do not know the length of those bolts.
Not bad at all. 👏👏👏
Its PVC pipe cement in a spray. Its melts the old clear into the new.
0:52 💯 facts!!!! Especially trucks
It's a lesson I never seem to learn, buying all these rusty trucks lol
😂😂😂 0:31 So true!
Use Un-Du. Thank me later
Legends only fade away.. Good job!
Thanks... This car is still half alive. The subframes were rotting out, so the body is sitting on a 4wd toyota truck frame now.
I can’t imagine being a body shop, and not having one of these things. The time saved in man hours would pay for it very quickly.
That laser is frekin’ awesome! This is one of the few reasons that I don’t hate the future. (I still don’t have hope, but I don’t actively hate it.) ;-)
Haha, that couldn't be better said!
have you done an ambassador or distributor deal with any of these laser companies?
No, but I agreed to create this video in exchange for a 5% discount on the purchase of the machine.
Do you use the machine very often?
@@klubj57 yes I have been using it in most of my recent videos, as well as other projects that I do not upload.
35 10.5s on the stock wheels
That would be perfect, but when I bought these 33's, nobody had 35x10.50r15 all terrain tires.
Well that figures lol. It doesn't like white paint. My jeep is white....everywhere on the sheet metal.
Was ur cab sagging down any? I have a 97 F250 where the cab mount is detached from the floor and now the door is pinching with the front fender. Curious how would one would know where to lift the cab exactly to install new floor pan pieces to match with cab mount
This cab was not sagging, but I had a similar problem on my 1985. Here is a short video showing the repair. kzread.info/dash/bejne/aYyfxtCro8ScYqQ.html I would lift the cab by the other solid mounting points and support it with the door/fender in place until you can see the gaps are correct. Then repair it in that position. You may want to weld some temporary bracing in place to be sure the cab does not shift at all while you're repairing it. If it's sagging that much, it sounds like you have a lot more rot to cut out and replace than I did.
It takes 10 mins to remove cowl. As body shop tech it's worth the extra few mins you looking at 5 to 10 mins a nut in the back. Good video POOR ADVICE
It's not just the cowl cover, but the piece below it as well. If you can remove the entire cowl assembly in 10 mins, then go for it.
I personally would have taken the time to get down to bare metal and use etching primer and seam sealer and a rubber undercoat. But overall nice work.
I left some areas because they were not rusty at all. The factory primer/paint is better than the aerosol stuff I'm using, so I leave the factory coating when I can. If I had more time, a bigger budget, and the ideal work space, I'd definitely strip the whole thing to bare metal and use DTM primer and urethane paint.
Have you thought about using fiberglass resin over the foam and dash to seal the foam and fill in the factory texture?
Like foam the dash sand it smooth reform if necessary roll on a coat or two of fiberglass resin across the entire dash and sand it smooth
That looks really good man.
I did a comparison on the very first dash repair video, and the body filler was actually a little more flexible than the fiberglass resin. I wanted some flex to allow for expanding and contracting in the sun/shade. I think either would have worked though.
Where does the transfer case cooler go?
These trucks don't have a transfer case cooler. The auto trans trucks had lines that ran to a separate section with in the radiator, but this didn't because it was a 5 speed truck.
Amazing video, my only concern is the oem vinyl breaking abd cracking underneath the filler. Am i being OCD or willvthat actually happen? Im debating on removing the entire vinyl coating before restoring the dash
That's a good point... I guess I will find out and share in the update.
Love the bit with Mikey at the end.
All points explained very well.I wish you all the best for your business guys 👍👌
IK this shows my ignorance of automotive/engine paints, but ... isnt there a paint (or something) that we can apply to engines, body undersides, etc that is oil-phobic? That isnt the right word, but idk what it is. Basically isnt there a paint or paint like substance that is very difficult for dirt and oil and grime to stick to? If so, is it just really expensive or something ... o.w. idk why i dont see folks use it more. Thanks.
Hmmm that's a good idea, but I haven't heard of such a product. To be honest, I don't mind oil residue sticking to paint. It actually helps repel the real enemy of these trucks, which is road salt. I'll gladly clean/degrease oil over replace rotted rusty metal any day.
@@6thGearGarage good point
Mikey! sup bro!