So when youre installing Manley rods into a 4v do you have to take out all 4 Cams?
@williehill472 күн бұрын
My fav Ford....and I don't like Ford
@66gsstage232 күн бұрын
I'll never use Felpro head gaskets again. Failed after only 600 miles. Also it is very important to re-torque the studs/bolts after initial install as they do stretch. Good idea to let them set for 24 hours, back off 1/8 turn and re-torque. Can't believe this wasn't mentioned in this video.
@TopMach13 күн бұрын
Do Manley rods come with those bearing things
@JohnSmithRacing2 күн бұрын
No, the bearings are sold separately.
@TopMach1Күн бұрын
What bearings did you go with?@@JohnSmithRacing
@KINGRG15 күн бұрын
Let us know how the Fel Pro gaskets hold up over time. They’ve been failing on me and others quite a bit in the last 2-3 years (pandemic era) and seems that they haven’t made any strides to recover from that issue..
@superbimmerbros7 күн бұрын
We’ve seen some hot rod engine builders use “ketchup” as assembly lube. Can you confirm or deny this practice?
@superbimmerbros9 күн бұрын
Down to race
@user-no8mv4tw8j10 күн бұрын
That’s the pushrod motor too right ? The good one of the bunch ….
@JohnSmithRacing9 күн бұрын
No, this is a over head cam version of the 4.0 (Cologne) engine. They replaced the cam with a jackshaft and ran a font and rear cam chain.
@user-no8mv4tw8j9 күн бұрын
@@JohnSmithRacing that’s the crappy one
@gordoncompton301410 күн бұрын
Cars are fucking dog shit whatever they are. None of the manufacturer's help themselves, see it day in and out
@brentchow270511 күн бұрын
Great design
@AbhinashPegu-xu2rq11 күн бұрын
What is this
@AbhinashPegu-xu2rq11 күн бұрын
😅
@davereith5412 күн бұрын
When you were prying the crank forward, I don’t think you should be prying on the cap with the thrust bearing in it. That defeats the purpose of the prying.
@AngelLopez-me5ep13 күн бұрын
lol not a mustang a PONY
@tonyhiggs749813 күн бұрын
do you still need to remove cam followers if you have the crank set at the right position before pulling timing components off?
@JohnSmithRacing13 күн бұрын
It can probably be done without removing the followers. You just need to be careful about piston to valve contact.
@Slowcars4me14 күн бұрын
Are there any positive displacement blowers that work with the teksid block knock sensors? I want to add knock sensors to a Termi cobra with MS3Pro standalone
@JohnSmithRacing14 күн бұрын
I do not know of any that will work with a Teksid and 2V heads. However, Kenne Bell has a kit for the early Cobra, so it should work with a Teksid and 4V heads.
@ucnhtmenow116 күн бұрын
Arp says to have at the very least one thread of the stud sticking up past the nut.
@ucnhtmenow116 күн бұрын
When you say the cut it's on the thrust bearing faces towards the crank, a lot of people are getting confused thinking the cutouts face toward the front of the engine where the majority of the crank is. I don't know why they don't just get the Chilton's but a couple if them were pulling the motor working a week. Not saying it was your video specifically, but thanks for the vid, it's a vital part of the build.
@jwdundon17 күн бұрын
I have a 78 King Cobra black as well. I'm thinking hard about converting over to five lug suspension and using 15-in "gold snow flake" jeep wheels on it.... (You habe any thoughts)? -- of course pit COBRAS on the jeep center caps.
@blkbirdsar294619 күн бұрын
I have question will removing the cam follwers and alone be ok or do I have to remove the lash adjusters as well? I’m doing timing on a 4.6 4v 01 cobra !
@JohnSmithRacing17 күн бұрын
Taking the cam followers out will make it easier, but even those don't "have" to come out. The lash adjusters do not need to be removed. However, it is a good idea to bleed them down to make sure a valve doesn't hang open and make putting the cam follower back in easier.
@NoLogoGarage19 күн бұрын
I have a carbed 4.6 DOHC and I am curious where I should run my timing curve. My timing is dead on, I just can't seem to find any info on where these engines are happy as far as my curve goes. I have it set at idle to 15° and curves up to 26° at WOT. Any advice guys?
@JohnSmithRacing17 күн бұрын
That sounds about right to me. I have heard of people running closer to 30 degrees at WOT but it's going to depend on the fuel and compression. You could always dyno it for a baseline then add a degree or two and see if it likes it. If only we all had personal dynos.
@NoLogoGarage17 күн бұрын
@@JohnSmithRacing I have no idea what my compression ratio is. YES, I sure wish everyone had a dyno lol I used to have my compression ratio figured out, but since lost the measurements on everything. I have a stock bottom end from a lincoln mark 8,(Teksid 4.6). -2.8 pistons? Also have a stock set of 2001 lincoln continental C, tumble port heads. 54cc combustion chamber? And I have stock deck height and oem head gaskets. .036 thickness? I know the 96 my bottom end came from had 9:85.1 compression.
@JohnSmithRacing17 күн бұрын
@@NoLogoGarage Yeah, your set up is probably mid 9 CR. I believe the B-heads had a bit smaller chambers so going to the larger chamber should have lowered compression some. Either way, I feel you are pretty close on the timing.
@NoLogoGarage17 күн бұрын
@@JohnSmithRacing appreciate it.
@paintit511621 күн бұрын
Is that 84 4-cylinder turbo one
@Terminator_88821 күн бұрын
Exotic Motorsports of Oklahoma got their hands on one.
@MrGermanGamingTVАй бұрын
Tips from me (i got one of these cheaper pans): - to get the oil out easily, just carefully drill a hole where these cheap pans have their drain screw, sounded strange to me but my friend, wo is a professional mechanic, did it with confidence 😂 - after installing a new seal on the pan, clean everything good, if you still get oildrop, check the dipsticktube where it goes into the transmission. The o-ring likes to get old, should be a 3/16" ID 3/4" OD and 3/32" section o-ring if i'm right. Take the kats out to reach the screw with an angle.
@MustangFourSixАй бұрын
What's the torque spec on oil pump
@eddiearchuleta615Ай бұрын
I replaced my old motorcraft one with the k&n does the k&n flow better or filter better than the motorcraft or are they pretty much the same
@eddiearchuleta615Ай бұрын
I just did this on my 97 cobra blessing the pressure from the fuel rail header valve helps with fuel spill mine didn’t spill after
@roccoluppino9661Ай бұрын
Do you have to use the adjustable lash adjuster? Will I be able to degree my cams and get intake center line measurements while all rollers and lash adjusters are installed?
@JohnSmithRacingАй бұрын
Its recommended to use the adjustable one because it will not collapse like the factory ones will. If the lash adjuster compresses during the process then you will not get accurate results.
@24theMoneyАй бұрын
A Mustang with a truck engine. Ford could have done a 347 and made just as much power with a lighter engine and better handling. The best thing about the 1995 Cobra R are the wheels were made available to the aftermarket.
@i94south34Ай бұрын
is there any difference in cylinder head bolt torque specs between a iron block or a aluminum block
@SaleenJАй бұрын
Good thing I looked I would have assumed the Upper part of the rod was the CAP guess it makes sense when you think about
@TravillageАй бұрын
If you put the reluctor wheel on backwards can that cause a crank but no start issue?
@TravillageАй бұрын
Nvm. You answered my question. Looks like im pulling the timing cover off to see if i out that reluctor wheel on backwards smh
@JohnSmithRacingАй бұрын
@@Travillage You might be able to check by taking the crank position sensor out and trying to look in the hole and see if the wheel is centered in it. A borescope would make it easier to get a good look too.
@Ariel-hn1ge2 ай бұрын
running headers in this clip?
@fuzzysniper2 ай бұрын
What happened to the front air dam? It seems to be missing.
@JohnSmithRacing2 ай бұрын
I have it somewhere, the radiator support is really bent and I believe it attaches to that area so I have some work to do before I can put it on.
@michaelcaligiuri93152 ай бұрын
You sure on those part numbers? I thought the smaller one went on the oil cooler and the bigger one on the gt housing. 70801 is for the gt when I looked up on rock auto.
@JohnSmithRacing2 ай бұрын
I thought I was, but I could be wrong. I do know that websites used to get them mixed up as to what one went of what model. It doesn't help that many have been swapped out too.
@Trinergy-Livewire2 ай бұрын
I installed this 2 years ago. Anything with a plastic pulley should not have "racing" in its description. I've wanted to replace that with a metal one with sealed bearings since i opened the box. I will this summer.
@stevenlazarin87512 ай бұрын
My 1st car was a 1975 ll with a v8, great car!!!!! I love these cars!
@RA-lk1vz2 ай бұрын
Do you have your shop?
@boostedbrothers56062 ай бұрын
So ford made that gt500?
@venm4u972 ай бұрын
I bought the MMR relocation kit...you know if u can still use your existing lower coolant hose? or does that get eliminated as well?
@RA-lk1vz2 ай бұрын
Dang - awesome adventure in that Stang and with your Brother!
@kpemb842 ай бұрын
Best video on cam degreeing a 2v mod motor. Been building for years and this guy has by far been the best.
@keithcannon36822 ай бұрын
I am trying to find out some information on the forged 4.6 cranks that were made in Germany. How many engines do you suppose had those. I know the cobras came with the Kellogg cranks So what car did the other forged cranks come in? Any idea? Also I have seen a lot of guys using coffee filters for the final wipe down before assembly.
@straightzippin45172 ай бұрын
What’s the part number to the cam bolt ?
@JohnSmithRacing2 ай бұрын
The ones that work with aftermarket cams is the 12mm one ARP PN: 256-1001
@BulliKid2 ай бұрын
My pin won’t go into the rod small bore. Any advice?
@JohnSmithRacing2 ай бұрын
Some pins are press in, you may need to take them to a machine shop for installation. Or you can purchase a rod heater
@BulliKid2 ай бұрын
@@JohnSmithRacing do press in rods have the brass bushing ?
@JohnSmithRacing2 ай бұрын
@@BulliKid I don't usually build engines with the press in style but I would think they do not have bushings. What rods are you using? Are they aftermarket or stock?
@ironwill85963 ай бұрын
I like the king cobras but I never liked the 5.0 its for the mm boys that dont understand cu in 302!
@fordchevinman46143 ай бұрын
Awesome videos very informative, great for guys like me who is a beginner
@carterscreamery3 ай бұрын
This is completely wrong! Don't do this! Take a small Allen wrench and put it in the top of the lifter all the way to the bottom and push on the ball valve. Instantly releases all pressure. DO NOT USE A VICE LOL😢😢😢
@robertsamspon42323 ай бұрын
my first 2v, i was lost, watched a ton of videos and lots of reading just to get my head around it..... this is a perfect video to make it simple for a guy to understand when he plans to do cams. great job!
@xx_el_paisa_xx4313 ай бұрын
Just for future reference, you don’t need to break the tabs on the bottom of the head lamp, the way to remove it is by unscrewing the 4 8 mm bolts on the little support holding the bracket and it will come off all in one piece. If you break it your gonna destroy your bumper
Пікірлер
So when youre installing Manley rods into a 4v do you have to take out all 4 Cams?
My fav Ford....and I don't like Ford
I'll never use Felpro head gaskets again. Failed after only 600 miles. Also it is very important to re-torque the studs/bolts after initial install as they do stretch. Good idea to let them set for 24 hours, back off 1/8 turn and re-torque. Can't believe this wasn't mentioned in this video.
Do Manley rods come with those bearing things
No, the bearings are sold separately.
What bearings did you go with?@@JohnSmithRacing
Let us know how the Fel Pro gaskets hold up over time. They’ve been failing on me and others quite a bit in the last 2-3 years (pandemic era) and seems that they haven’t made any strides to recover from that issue..
We’ve seen some hot rod engine builders use “ketchup” as assembly lube. Can you confirm or deny this practice?
Down to race
That’s the pushrod motor too right ? The good one of the bunch ….
No, this is a over head cam version of the 4.0 (Cologne) engine. They replaced the cam with a jackshaft and ran a font and rear cam chain.
@@JohnSmithRacing that’s the crappy one
Cars are fucking dog shit whatever they are. None of the manufacturer's help themselves, see it day in and out
Great design
What is this
😅
When you were prying the crank forward, I don’t think you should be prying on the cap with the thrust bearing in it. That defeats the purpose of the prying.
lol not a mustang a PONY
do you still need to remove cam followers if you have the crank set at the right position before pulling timing components off?
It can probably be done without removing the followers. You just need to be careful about piston to valve contact.
Are there any positive displacement blowers that work with the teksid block knock sensors? I want to add knock sensors to a Termi cobra with MS3Pro standalone
I do not know of any that will work with a Teksid and 2V heads. However, Kenne Bell has a kit for the early Cobra, so it should work with a Teksid and 4V heads.
Arp says to have at the very least one thread of the stud sticking up past the nut.
When you say the cut it's on the thrust bearing faces towards the crank, a lot of people are getting confused thinking the cutouts face toward the front of the engine where the majority of the crank is. I don't know why they don't just get the Chilton's but a couple if them were pulling the motor working a week. Not saying it was your video specifically, but thanks for the vid, it's a vital part of the build.
I have a 78 King Cobra black as well. I'm thinking hard about converting over to five lug suspension and using 15-in "gold snow flake" jeep wheels on it.... (You habe any thoughts)? -- of course pit COBRAS on the jeep center caps.
I have question will removing the cam follwers and alone be ok or do I have to remove the lash adjusters as well? I’m doing timing on a 4.6 4v 01 cobra !
Taking the cam followers out will make it easier, but even those don't "have" to come out. The lash adjusters do not need to be removed. However, it is a good idea to bleed them down to make sure a valve doesn't hang open and make putting the cam follower back in easier.
I have a carbed 4.6 DOHC and I am curious where I should run my timing curve. My timing is dead on, I just can't seem to find any info on where these engines are happy as far as my curve goes. I have it set at idle to 15° and curves up to 26° at WOT. Any advice guys?
That sounds about right to me. I have heard of people running closer to 30 degrees at WOT but it's going to depend on the fuel and compression. You could always dyno it for a baseline then add a degree or two and see if it likes it. If only we all had personal dynos.
@@JohnSmithRacing I have no idea what my compression ratio is. YES, I sure wish everyone had a dyno lol I used to have my compression ratio figured out, but since lost the measurements on everything. I have a stock bottom end from a lincoln mark 8,(Teksid 4.6). -2.8 pistons? Also have a stock set of 2001 lincoln continental C, tumble port heads. 54cc combustion chamber? And I have stock deck height and oem head gaskets. .036 thickness? I know the 96 my bottom end came from had 9:85.1 compression.
@@NoLogoGarage Yeah, your set up is probably mid 9 CR. I believe the B-heads had a bit smaller chambers so going to the larger chamber should have lowered compression some. Either way, I feel you are pretty close on the timing.
@@JohnSmithRacing appreciate it.
Is that 84 4-cylinder turbo one
Exotic Motorsports of Oklahoma got their hands on one.
Tips from me (i got one of these cheaper pans): - to get the oil out easily, just carefully drill a hole where these cheap pans have their drain screw, sounded strange to me but my friend, wo is a professional mechanic, did it with confidence 😂 - after installing a new seal on the pan, clean everything good, if you still get oildrop, check the dipsticktube where it goes into the transmission. The o-ring likes to get old, should be a 3/16" ID 3/4" OD and 3/32" section o-ring if i'm right. Take the kats out to reach the screw with an angle.
What's the torque spec on oil pump
I replaced my old motorcraft one with the k&n does the k&n flow better or filter better than the motorcraft or are they pretty much the same
I just did this on my 97 cobra blessing the pressure from the fuel rail header valve helps with fuel spill mine didn’t spill after
Do you have to use the adjustable lash adjuster? Will I be able to degree my cams and get intake center line measurements while all rollers and lash adjusters are installed?
Its recommended to use the adjustable one because it will not collapse like the factory ones will. If the lash adjuster compresses during the process then you will not get accurate results.
A Mustang with a truck engine. Ford could have done a 347 and made just as much power with a lighter engine and better handling. The best thing about the 1995 Cobra R are the wheels were made available to the aftermarket.
is there any difference in cylinder head bolt torque specs between a iron block or a aluminum block
Good thing I looked I would have assumed the Upper part of the rod was the CAP guess it makes sense when you think about
If you put the reluctor wheel on backwards can that cause a crank but no start issue?
Nvm. You answered my question. Looks like im pulling the timing cover off to see if i out that reluctor wheel on backwards smh
@@Travillage You might be able to check by taking the crank position sensor out and trying to look in the hole and see if the wheel is centered in it. A borescope would make it easier to get a good look too.
running headers in this clip?
What happened to the front air dam? It seems to be missing.
I have it somewhere, the radiator support is really bent and I believe it attaches to that area so I have some work to do before I can put it on.
You sure on those part numbers? I thought the smaller one went on the oil cooler and the bigger one on the gt housing. 70801 is for the gt when I looked up on rock auto.
I thought I was, but I could be wrong. I do know that websites used to get them mixed up as to what one went of what model. It doesn't help that many have been swapped out too.
I installed this 2 years ago. Anything with a plastic pulley should not have "racing" in its description. I've wanted to replace that with a metal one with sealed bearings since i opened the box. I will this summer.
My 1st car was a 1975 ll with a v8, great car!!!!! I love these cars!
Do you have your shop?
So ford made that gt500?
I bought the MMR relocation kit...you know if u can still use your existing lower coolant hose? or does that get eliminated as well?
Dang - awesome adventure in that Stang and with your Brother!
Best video on cam degreeing a 2v mod motor. Been building for years and this guy has by far been the best.
I am trying to find out some information on the forged 4.6 cranks that were made in Germany. How many engines do you suppose had those. I know the cobras came with the Kellogg cranks So what car did the other forged cranks come in? Any idea? Also I have seen a lot of guys using coffee filters for the final wipe down before assembly.
What’s the part number to the cam bolt ?
The ones that work with aftermarket cams is the 12mm one ARP PN: 256-1001
My pin won’t go into the rod small bore. Any advice?
Some pins are press in, you may need to take them to a machine shop for installation. Or you can purchase a rod heater
@@JohnSmithRacing do press in rods have the brass bushing ?
@@BulliKid I don't usually build engines with the press in style but I would think they do not have bushings. What rods are you using? Are they aftermarket or stock?
I like the king cobras but I never liked the 5.0 its for the mm boys that dont understand cu in 302!
Awesome videos very informative, great for guys like me who is a beginner
This is completely wrong! Don't do this! Take a small Allen wrench and put it in the top of the lifter all the way to the bottom and push on the ball valve. Instantly releases all pressure. DO NOT USE A VICE LOL😢😢😢
my first 2v, i was lost, watched a ton of videos and lots of reading just to get my head around it..... this is a perfect video to make it simple for a guy to understand when he plans to do cams. great job!
Just for future reference, you don’t need to break the tabs on the bottom of the head lamp, the way to remove it is by unscrewing the 4 8 mm bolts on the little support holding the bracket and it will come off all in one piece. If you break it your gonna destroy your bumper
Booooooooo I.C.E FTMFW