When you say the cut it's on the thrust bearing faces towards the crank, a lot of people are getting confused thinking the cutouts face toward the front of the engine where the majority of the crank is. I don't know why they don't just get the Chilton's but a couple if them were pulling the motor working a week. Not saying it was your video specifically, but thanks for the vid, it's a vital part of the build.

Arp says to have at the very least one thread of the stud sticking up past the nut.

I am trying to find out some information on the forged 4.6 cranks that were made in Germany. How many engines do you suppose had those. I know the cobras came with the Kellogg cranks So what car did the other forged cranks come in? Any idea? Also I have seen a lot of guys using coffee filters for the final wipe down before assembly.

During my build i did the side bolts to 90 in/lbs lol. Well after a couple years one of the driver side worked it's way out. I chased that oil leak forever. I torqued it to 180 in/lbs after that. Rookie move on my part. So you go 30 ft/#'s?

@Wings65288

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Love this vid by the way, thank you.

@JohnSmithRacing

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Yes, ARP recommends 30 ftlbs for their bolts. The factory service manual says 14-17 ftlbs, but that is for factory bolts.