Hey, my name is Cody and I live in the best country on earth. I love working on American made trucks and anything that's mechanical. I'm not a professional mechanic, just self taught through trial and error. Not only do I love fixing and restoring trucks, but learning something new along the way, and showing others that you don't need to have the biggest shop, most expensive tools, or even be a professional mechanic to get a job done, not to mention saving a few dollars along the way😉. Thanks for watching and welcome to the channel!
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Just done the door, works great thanks. 1 hour & 3 balls.
@@rewoodii that’s great to hear! glad the video was helpful!
Beautiful OBS! Looks very rust free.
Thank you! for a truck being 30 years old it’s rust free!👍
😩 u make it look so easy. I’m just an old lady who doesn’t know cars lol. Mine won’t come out
Sometimes there is old grease gumming things up. Sometimes you also have to wiggle the lock cylinder back and forth gently to get it to come out.
@@ydocproductions5593 I did it!!! Thank u so much. My brother fixed the cylinder & now I can return the part for $250 refund. You’re the best.
That only works if you have the right year to year and cluster setup. There are actually wiring differences. Not all years are a straight swap. You'll know it's wrong when your alternator isn't charging your battery. Lol
You’re absolutely correct. I tell everyone who comments on doing this swap to get the right year gauge cluster.
I run 2 gallons of Rotella 15/40 and a half gallon of lucas
Nice! I’m sure that engine is gonna last a long time👍
My new one on my 89 keeps jamming and not wanting to go in all the way, any advice?
I would clean out the lock cylinder the best you can. Old grease can gum things up. I would also make sure the new lock cylinder is clocked the proper way, and lined up. Hope that helps👍
The new one won't go in it's very tight
If it’s the right part for the truck I would clean out the ignition cylinder of any old grease that might be binding things up.
Hey thanks for the video, how long did the entire fender swap take in hours? Yes you can reduce the gap between fender and hood just loosen the 4 bolts and carefully push the fender in a bit firm up bolts , check gap them once where you like where it is tighten up but be sure to (close hood slowly) !
It took about a day to go slow and make sure the job was done the right way but it was well worth the effort. That’s good to know about the adjustments I can make on the fender cause even though the gap is minimal it still could be improved on.
I hope it works for my 1989 Ford
If it’s an “f-series” truck it should work. They make those trucks from 1987-1991. Hope it works out for ya👍
Will this work with the 94 e350 idi diesel?
Hi, I never have worked on the e-series of vans and so I don’t know exactly but the principal would be the same. You would have to get a guage cluster out of a e series van that has a factory tach. That same gauge cluster would have to be a diesel gauge cluster. The gas and diesel gauge clusters are NOT interchangeable. Lastly that same gauge cluster would have to be one that’s the same year as your van otherwise the vehicle won’t charge properly. As long as it meets all that criteria it just might work, but no promises/guarantees because I don’t know if the writing would work as well. Hope that helps
Where did you find the tach cluster, and where would I find someone to find out my mileage my odometer is broken?
Hi Larry, I got mine out of a salvage yard for $30 if you wanted you could go to ebay for example, but expect to pay way more. The only issue with this swap I’d warn you about is you HAVE TO make sure your gauge cluster is the same year as your truck, otherwise your vehicle won’t charge properly. As for your mileage it’s almost impossible to guess what your current mileage would be. You could maybe get somewhere in the ballpark by getting a car fax report and back tracking your mileage from there but no way to get an exact number. Hope that helps!
It's a remanufactured pump btw. You cannot buy a brand new 7.3 HPOP, they don't exist sadly. For what you spent on it you could have had a 20* from CNC and some money back in your pocket. If you're staying with those injectors though you wouldn't need it.
They’re the stock injectors so I didn’t need a 20*. It’s run great ever since I replaced those parts and am so happy with the truck
heeeeyyyyy cody havent seen you post in a little while, hope life is well on your end of the world.
Hey there. It has been quite some time but don’t worry everything is going great I’m just in the planning stage of the build I have laid out. Still looking for the right truck to modify. Stay tuned!! 👍
Will a knuckle assembly from a Ford Explorer work here ? Having trouble finding one for my 04 Aviator
I’m not exactly sure. I’d assume they were the same since it’s built on the same platform, but it’s better to be safe than sorry when it comes to something like that. I’m sorry I don’t have a better answer for you but I would recommend you do a little more research before you buy anything.
@@ydocproductions5593 I picked one up at the junkyard , so I think i will take it to the autoparts store and compare the two side by side . Thank you for responding!! Great video
@@SuffShakurHDTV I think that’s a good idea. Good luck with it, and welcome to the channel
Awesome!!! It really should have been there all along... subbed!
I agree, and thank you. Welcome to the channel. Just make sure that if you do this swap you get a gauge cluster that is the same year as your truck otherwise your vehicle won’t charge properly.👍
did not prep mating surface or torque properly gave it the german torque spec "gutentite"
How should the mating surfaces be prepped?
I really enjoy your videos. I have a 97 7.3. You have such a nice way of presenting things. you remind me of my wife ,she does a stream of consciousness type thing. and you are talking exactly the way I think when I'm working on something. amazing that you can put that verbally. My son follows in my footsteps. I have already told them about your channel.
Thank you for the kind words, that means a lot. Welcome to the channel👍
🏳️🏳️🏳️🏳️WORKED LOKE A CHARM!!!! LOL. LITERALLY LET IT SOAKED FOR 2 DAUS AND INSTANTLY THE STALLING IS GONE. Did this for my 89. Now!! I known why my 1993 had solid red fuel when I first bought it. The previous owner must already knew about this. Thank you! 🚩🚩🚩🚩
I’m so glad this worked out for you. I guess there’s just a lot of moving parts that can get gummed up by older diesel fuel. Hard to beat a cheap fix like that!
Any good way with getting a cylinder unstuck without ripping the head off it 😅
I wouldn’t force anything that would end up breaking more parts in the steering column. I hate to state the obvious but if something is bound up inside you can try using some wd-40 or whatever you’d like and try inserting the key and try rotating the lock back and forth to try and unlock whatever’s bound up. Other than that you risk doing more harm than good.
I got the same stalling problem. Gonna try this NEXT;;;;;
Sounds good. Let me know how it turns out👍.
Bro you the man!!! Worked like magic lol.
Bought a suburban I’m thinking about doing a complete restore on a 2005 z71 4x4. Is it worth it? Can I get a solid 4l60e and the right generation 5.3 new still?
It might be hard to find those engine/transmission combo that are still in good shape with low miles. There definitely isn’t a shortage of engine parts for these suburbans. However finding parts that aren’t completely worn out for a decent price is the issue.
Don’t forget to add SCAs to your coolant so you don’t lose your block to cavitation!
Ended up using the Motorcraft brand SCAs’👍
What if there is something stuck in it
Any idea if this will interchange with other older ford/lincoln/mercury models?
I have no experience with the older models but I’m sure the same principle applies👍
Thanks for the video man showed me a different way to get yo that bolt. Long extension was too long so i used medium and a short together with a swivel head ratchet if you have small hands you can reach around the starter and spin the extension by hand. Thank you
I’m so glad the video was helpful! It’s definitely not easy to get that starter out but with the right tools and technique it can be done👍
In a perfect world it goes exactly like that. In my case bolts broke upon removal. 1 bolt was flush, then the extractor broke smh.
Exactly. My experience was pretty easy compared to others. Thankfully I didn’t have any issues replacing the pump👍
Did your front end get moved over, the finder should lineup? Do the X and check for square. Maybe someone chopping on your new fender. Great everything but the gap that most of us don’t see any way. great work, Just throwing a few ideal you can check that might help, Thank you
That’s a good question. To my knowledge everything was fine except for the headlight bezel and fender. The semi truck that rounded the corner was going at such a slow speed I doubt it put something out of wack with the rest of the truck. The body line doesn’t line up perfectly but it’s been close enough I haven’t felt the need to mess with it. That being said it’s worth checking to see if it’s square. Thanks for the insight👍
I checked my F 150 1996 and used second bolt behind hood hing, bolt to side of hood latch out to chrome it should read 55 3/4 drivers side, passenger side use second bolt behind hood hinge and run it across like you did the driver side and lay tape flat as you run beside the hood latch to chrome edge for grill hits the metal, should read 56 1/2 and I turned my hood stop straight where mine reads 62 3/4 across, Hope this will help,
@@user-vq3dc2se5d That’s extremely helpful thank you for taking the time to get those measurements.
Will this work on a 1996 Ford e350 van?
I have no experience with the “E” series of vans, but I bet the same principle applies. That being said you have to make sure the gauge cluster you buy is the same year as your van otherwise it won’t charge properly. Let me know how it turns out👍
How much did you buy that for?
I believe it was $650 with a $200 core charge. I got my pump from RiffRaff Diesel down in southern Oregon. They’re a great company and had excellent customer service when I needed to ask some questions. Can’t recommend them enough.
Can you offer any insight into converting a 4.5k diesel tach to be compatible with a 4.9l gasoline? In a 95 F150. 4.5k is literally a perfect tachometer for the 4.9l
I’m sorry but the diesel and gasoline tachometers are completely different when it comes to internal wiring. It wouldn’t even work for your truck. If you decide to do this swap it doesn’t matter what gas engine you use. What is absolutely crucial is that you use a tachometer that is the same year as your truck. If you don’t do that your truck won’t charge properly. Good luck with your swap😀👍
Answer spell check works when it wonts to !!
In my mind to untime the pump it was asked to do more than normal for that to happen or something was blocked ?? Thanks in advanced if u know the amswer !!
Do u have a chip on the truck ? 90 hp or 100 hp or the Edge performance chip ? Im wondering why the timing of the pump got off every 1 ive done is because it wont pump enough oil psi to start the truck and u had plenty of oil psi just out of time so this is new to me everything i work on is work trucks not play trucks !!
Hi Ricky, no there wasn’t any tuners on the truck at all. I even went as far as to remove the kick panel under the dash to look at the back of the ecm and the factory plastic material was still in place where a chip would plug into. Also no aftermarket gauges or evidence of someone drilling into the dash and also stock injectors. To my knowledge it’s a completely stock truck.
For anybody else doing this, that front plastic piece that holds the headlights in is held in with 3 8mm bolts and if you remove that the fender is so much easier to pull off
On the top shelf of my fender someone pot welded it.
That’s not good! Hopefully it doesn’t affect the look of the truck too much
My ? Does it matter which speedo section you use? For the swap or are the speedo /odometer the same in both. I would like to keep the proper odometer reading.
Hi, the speedometer/odometer is the same throughout, so you can keep the original odometer and correct miles on your truck. I have to warn you though. You have to make absolutely sure that the gauge cluster you buy is the same year as your truck, otherwise your truck might not charge properly. Good luck with your truck👍
Love the gun rack in the back window
It was a true farm truck🤣!
That o skoool😂
Does it work in a Lincoln town car 98?
I’m not sure, but I bet the same principle applies to your vehicle. Just go slow and take your time👍
Im not exactly sure, but I’m sure the same principle applies to your vehicle. Just go slow and take your time👍
Thanks
Checks trans fluid with engine off then adds more atf lol Yeah this dude should be making tutorials on mechanic work, Okay.
Certainly next I would check fuel pressure, its too low - I've seen Ron do it putting the fuel pickup hose in a small jug of just fuel. The pump is in the chassis and the fuel tank has just a pickup/return (it dumps fuel back when 60 psi is reached (by fuel regulator)). if you're not seeing 55-60 psi somethings up. The 2 filters in the pick up housing are notorious for clogging, the pick up for cracking. replace both while you are in there. Personally I find it easier to remove the bed (8 bolts) than to drop the tank. I just did this - fuel pressure maintains 55-60.
I ended up fixing the problem in another video and it tuned out the problem was a combination of a bad HPOP and a bad mechanical fuel pump located in the valley of the engine. The truck runs so great now and fires right up every time
@@ydocproductions5593 Good to hear. Always tougher to diagnose when multi issues. Bad HPOPs are fairly rare too I think.
Great vid. what is the thread size of the oil port ?
Thank you! I’m not exactly sure the oil size port. What I did was buy a crossover HPOP line kit off eBay that had all the 45* and 90* degree fittings. I believe it’s an automotive thread, so I couldn’t find the right size fitting at my local hardware store.
Perfect video , not like the others with all their fluff. Mine started making a scraping noise, and slight pull when I got on the brakes , knew instantly it was a bearing. Thanks for the video .
That’s much appreciated. Thank you for the kind words
Reading some of the other comments it appears I need to go to the junk yard and find a ford which Has a TAC in the dash, just to have find the right one
Yup I would check your local salvage yard and see what you can find. However, you have to get a tachometer that is the same year as your truck otherwise your vehicle won’t charge properly. Good luck with the swap😀👍!
I did not see where to purchase the TAC! did I miss that? Also, I have a 1996 f150 XL Is my Truck compatible with what you did here?
Congrats, you just discovered continuity! You can buy digital multimeters for pretty cheap these days
Haha! I discovered it in the least efficient way possible, but I sure did learn a lot which is what mattered. Thanks for watching👍
Exactly what my brother's old truck is doing. Been pulling my hair out trying to think of what I missed. Going to try this.
It’s definitely worth a shot. Worked great in my truck.👍
Thanks Great Video!
I’m glad you liked it!
I like what you are doing with your truck,I get it,do what you can and enjoy it. Thanks for sharing.
That’s exactly right. Thanks for your support!
Lots of wrong videos out there. Yours is right. Thank you
I appreciate it. That means a lot. Thank you!
Did this put more 'pressure' on the shifter to return to neutral while it's in gear? My truck falls out of third sometimes and im wondering if doing this fix to take some play out of the shifter will actually make it worse.
I don’t believe so. It just made the shifting a little smoother. If it’s popping out of gear that might be some sort of internal damage/wear with the gears.