The Nissitissit Pantologist
The Nissitissit Pantologist
This channel is about me, the things I like to do and things that interest me. I am a jack of all trades, and master of none, If anyone tells you they are an expert in anything, then they have given up on life, because in my view every day is a learning day. New lessons can be learned about anything any day. By trade I am an aircraft mechanic, I have been doing this for almost 40 years, and I learn something new every day. So if you subscribe to my channel my goal is to help you learn something new, as I have learned something new. So sit back and enjoy. Please feel free to leave a comment god bad or indifferent. And remember most of all, There is no such thing as a stupid question. If you don't know the answer how can it be stupid!! Thank you Don Garlits.
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that a waste of my time and zero information
I unhooked the harness and put the bulb socket in a 13/16 socket on an extension with swivel and put it back in.
How to buy check/spool valve(aluminium)?
Doubt your still active but I buggered up my front end pretty badly. Cracked the radiator, bottom of the core support is gone and pretty much every suspension component in the front end is shot. Who knew an 80 mph jump would do such a thing
Thanks for the video. Alternative lubricant during assembly is simply to use clean power steering fluid.
I cant get the o-rings to stay on the orifices while i seat them. Any advice? Thanks
You can’t just popped a headlight out
I'm from Ottawa. My 2000 F150 had it changed in 2004 in 2016 and it's getting done again in 2022. Imagine this truck was only 4 years old the first time it was changed
That's a lot of work. Mine needs this and a lot more. Oh well it doesn't owe me a penny so I guess it's still cheaper than buying another work truck
How did you remove the rubber mounts with. Screws I have a 2005 fordf150 and the screws on the mount want go down so can't remove the radiiator support any tips?
Friend l have problems with 7 pistons, they are completely blocked inside. I must drill it on the head and pull to came out its, then l need a new pistons parts. Where l may find them please… l m in Italy Thanks friend
A pain in the azz but i did it after trying multiple times. Be careful when taking out the little bulb, pry it slowly with something rather than pulling it out with fingers.
I have a very important message to tell everybody when it comes to Ford trucks and core support units. Please read this as it might help a lot of people. If you have a Ford Expedition, the radiator supports for the expedition have multiple part numbers to confuse people but the real truth is they interchange with many many years. I have been researching this for 3 weeks now every single day and I have spent hundreds of hours online. I've seen so many threads where people had to junk their vehicle because of this problem. Basically the Ford trucks Expedition and F-150 all have hundreds of different part numbers to confuse customers. But the real truth is there's only one or two different units that they use with all of these vehicles within a 10 to 15 year range. This is between F-150 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator. The other problem is that they discontinued the part from Ford dealer. The reason they did this is because it was a flawed design so they put it off on the aftermarket people. The problem with that is the aftermarket parts are inferior and mechanics and Auto Body people do not like using aftermarket parts because they want everything to line up perfectly and they want to warranty their work because they have to in many cases. In my journey I was able to find a PDF file from a man who does National Insurance crashes he's basically an investigator. And I was able to find an interchange book. I found that from 2002 or 2003 support unit goes all the way to 2009 for all Expedition Lincoln Navigator and possibly even the F-150.5L1Z16138A 4L1Z16138BA Those two part numbers above is an example of how Ford tries to confuse people they will price One support at $500 at the dealer as an example and then the other part will be $1,200 and they know full well that the part is almost identical. I don't know how they get away with this legally but they are professionals and they probably know loopholes. I have read hundreds and hundreds of forums where so many people had this problem. Solution well the solution to this problem is you have two choices. You can buy an aftermarket support and explain to your mechanic that you are buying this support because it's cheaper and it's an aftermarket and his job will be a little bit harder maybe a lot harder? Solution number two would be to go to the salvage yard and pull a salvage support unit that is compatible with your year and use the Salvage support and it will line up good. The problem with the salvage yard is that they had a rusting issue with these core supports and you will almost never find one from a salvage yard unless you go to Arizona or somewhere where it is not humid human and rains a lot. The main purpose of me writing this is to save people from the pain that I have just gone through and I wish I would have done this years ago to save a lot of people from this headache. If you can find one from a junkyard good luck but do not be fooled by Ford and they're switching of part numbers. I even got pictures of several different years from the dealership and they were all identical with different part numbers and someone in my family is an auto body guy and he told me that the aftermarket part works fine. If your mechanic does not want to do the job with the aftermarket part it is because he does not like you or he is a little bit lazy and doesn't want to do the extra work to make the part fit because Ford support for the radiator is a nightmare job to begin with. I am officially done with my rent and I'm happy to help anybody if you have any questions I am officially a master on this subject
Thanks for sharing your experience. Please reply with your opinion. I have neglected my hydraulic steering system. When we slid the boat off the trailer the helm turned starboard, the motor also turned correctly but when my wife turned port there was no resistance and the motor did not move. I have turned port 1000+ times attempting to get it to take fluid with zero success . No leaks anywhere at all. Is that my spool valve frozen? Wouldn't a frozen spool valve offer resistance. Is this a hosed pump?
How to pull up control light in side cabin for taurus 2015
How does the spool valve come out?
'13 Taurus owner here. Why did they bother making the headlights so easy to replace, but make the small bulbs that'll pop when your headlights go so difficult? This was on my list of "next weeked" problems, but it's seeming like a "if someone says something about it" problem now. Wish I'd done it when I had the wheels off to do the brakes.
Absolutely NOT supposed to raise any beam more than 1/4” per MONTH. You went an inch in one day?
You are correct, if was resetting a post and beam structure. This being a stick built home. The movement of the support beam was negligible to the rest of the house.
Sooo long winded.
Helpful, Thanks!
Your welcome…
Led lights going in on both outside lights
I think you're supposed to install these on top of footers, which are small specially reinforced concrete sections. You can't just install these anywhere on a concrete floor, because the normal floor can not provide the support.
I installed them in same places that the original uprights were placed which the footer is under. They haven’t moved since. I am good the house is good.
I'm doing my 2000 f150 right now do you remember what size washer that was you bought from Fastenal?
I think it was 3.250. That was a long time back
I'm trying to find a guide to how to get to this point.
So I have a police interceptor version and there's 2 holes in my headlights where the light is
Thanks for the video. Did your fenders fit back on OK without any alignment issues?
Where can I buy aftermarket LED DRL for 13 ford taurus? I have one out on the driver side. Tia
Great vid nobody else seemed to have one let alone as setback, info, expierence..I read somewhere these can be bolted in of there is clearence? I assume mine is just as rusted if not more than yours...so my question is which all the bending and mods you had to do needless to say I assume bolting in is kinda way out in left feild and not pratical once you start seeing how deep the rust goes?? Thanks in advanced great vid you guys did a stellar job!!
Mike ; I used self taping sheet metal screws to set things in place. then spot welded the whole thing together.
How do you get the bulb out of the casing ?
I used a pair of long neck needle nose pliers to pull it out
I do believe you're supposed to remove the front bumper. That way you can reach it.... pain in the ass both ways yes.
I am doing the same job but the mounts were kinda gone so dont really know how they go back on and cant find a video that shows it ,thanks for the washer idea!!
Late to the party but yours is the only video I could find on this. In Florida we don't worry about corrosion but... I did rear end a Silverado with one of those giant dock bumpers. No damage to him but smooshed my passenger side in pretty good. Working just a couple of hours at a time and watching your vid a few times I got it done. Thanks for posting. For anybody else doing this I don't have access to a spot welder so I used framing screws like you'd use on metal framing. I'm a drywall guy by trade so I have a bunch of them but they are readily available at the Big Box stores. I used self tappers, the 1/2" plated ones, and a lot of them. Been back on the road over a month and alls well.
Whew Hew! I got me a new adjustable method of cinching up a plumb line. Goodbye staple gun!
You are welcome.. I think!!!
@@thenissitissitpantologist1905 The plywood scrap arm. That's so much better than my former 'method' of trying to fasten the plumbline to the centerline directly.
I'm curious how you removed the sliding piston that is in the bore between the two check valves, It looks like there are two end pieces that the piston slides between and holds it in. Mine is sticking so I want to remove it and free it up.
Well I'm glad I didn't follow your other video and ruin my helm. Should probably take that video down.
I know u did the job already but did you check fundation below the footing.normally by code column must be seating solid 2 feet concrete slab under.anyway I am in process of doing it myself
I have a 2000 expedition Eddie bauer version with similar issues. I am not an auto body guy by any means.. my Lower radiator support brackets that the bottom posts of the radiator slide into are gone and both unibody support L brackets the bottom horizontal part of the L is corroded away that sits on the ladder frame brackets that you fixed.with the washers.. Are the lower brackets for the radiator and the unibody support brackets part of the radiator support frame? Or did you have to do something else to deal with that. It looked like your unibody brackets were gone as well. I can't find a close image of the area that shows me what is actually down there. Too much is missing to tell what was actually there originally.
J’aimerai que ce soit en français Cette photo est très bien merci beaucoup Bonjour
I guess that I'm the only one dumbfounded that a light that has no bearing on safety, or driving stop you from passing your inspection.
Very good video-serie indeed , I agree that some camera-support + steady lightsource would help you obtain focus on smaller parts.
Excellent video instruction.
18th July 2020 Arendal/Norway Very useful video indeed. I'm living in Norway, and your "Seastar"-steering has a brand named "Sleipner" over here, it's the same part as far as I can see. I was troubleshooting my steering d/t too much play, and found out that the steering-cylinder had unscrewed by less than a quarter of a turn at one of the end-pieces, and probably allowing air and moisture to enter the system. I bought the boat just one month ago, and new flow lines had been fitted not long ago. The hydraulic-oil/fluid had become contaminated, grayish/green color, and with some tiny pieces of rubber (my guess) floating around in the drained oil. The single center-O-ring inside the cylinder looked OK, by visual inspection as I could unscrew the end of the cylinder when it was removed. So I'm looking into rebuilding /refurbishing the steering-wheel-pump, and find out where the contamination comes from, and as you mention the internal O-rings may have decayed and disintegrated. My boat is an 1998-model, so a lot could have happened inside the pump due to age and regular wear. LINK to "Sleipner" sleipner.no/kategori/1761/rattpumper/ So maybe you would also post your video with "Sleipner hydraulisk rattpumpe" as title to increase your audience here in Norway, there are many of those pumps in the market over here in Norway/Scandinavia. My challenge is to find out where to get hold of the new set of O-rings to be able to complete the rebuild, so please, if you have a partnumber of the O-ring set of the Seastar-pump, that would be very helpful indeed. Thanks a lot for your very good video.
What size is the washers
On the spool valve orface discs, does it matter the orientation of the stand-off part on the interior side of the disc? Great videos by the way
How do you remove the rubber support for the frame?
This is called "part 1". Is ther a "Part 2"? Thanks.
Just remove the headlight assembly
How
Super helpful, finally get to see what is going on in the there. a couple of things. 1 - there doesn't seem to be a video of you bleeding the system and if it worked....I assume it did. 2 - please rename the videos to be in sequence....part 1 and part 2 had those words in it so easy to follow, then it went to Seastar helm(x) where X was an arbitrary number. 3 - see if you can use a tripod for the camera thanks nonetheless.
How did you fit ur hand up there
A long handled bent needle nose pliers.
and..... this is one reason I dislike my Taurus, that thing really Is a pain in my rear grrrrr. but thanks for the video