Hello, my name is Michael Dranfield. I was born in 1964 and have been repairing TV's my whole life. I first started acquired a taste for electronics at the age of 6 and I opened my first shop at the age of 21 and I have never done anything different since. In my younger days I used to make my own test equipment. I also used to write for a television magazine, right up until the day it closed down.
Some of the videos I present on KZread feature things that I've never done before, for example; turning an old Sky box into a workshop color bar generator.
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Hi Michael, interesting video. I have an issue with a similar Samsung aerial socket I would like to share with you and get your opinion on. would this be acceptable? Regards, Ant
Thank you very much for this video! With this solution, the TV works again. I found the perfect position for the little plastic strip and it works like before without any problem.
So Lucky to have good Neibours , is there a Peak Video coming up :-))
Hello Michael, I just stumbled upon your video and it brought back a lot of memories. I was born in the US (Florida) in 1955 and always had a fascination for radios and televisions. I started repairing radios and TVs in 1971 and worked for a few TV shops, in 1975 I didn't want to make a career of this so, went on to pursue design. In the US in the mid 1970's, color television was the big seller. Since the US started the sale of color sets in 1954, the interest in the mid 1970's for monochrome sets was limited to smaller portable sets with a maximum screen size of 19 inches. TVs from the UK obviously never got imported to the US since the video standards are different so, it is always intersting for me to see how they are designed. I like the mechanical layout and serviceability of that Pye. Most of the circuitry is on one PC board, with the board perimeter a heatsink. That large power resistor that is in parallel with the series-pass transistor in the power supply is used to share the heat dissipation duty with the transistor. This was probably done at the time reduce cost and limit the maximum voltage drop across the pass transistor, which for the 2N3055 is only 60 volts. That expensive thick-film resistor on the mains input was chosen for it's high surge capability.
Please i own a walker tv that uses a vestel 17mb211s it trips on and off after 10 min of use and then after it doesnt even come on only blinks red standby light then if i uplug and leave it to cool down it works again and starts to trip off and on again 😢😢😢
I used to go to the rubbish tip with my dad in the late 80'si was around 11. We always found and took abandoned radios and TVs and fixed them together. You're story brought back memories. Did you ever fix your father's radio? Always love your work so thanks for the videos.
Brilliant this has answered my problem I've been racking my brains and changed so many components! Where do I get these little wires from??
Lmao you saved my a**. I was about to order a new Mainboard since freezing the NAND didnt help. Watching your video I disconnected the Screen and saw the backlight kept on. After reconnecting the screen all was fine again! Just a bad contact probably
Funny how what was perceived as a cheap poor quality item still has a better picture than most modern flat screens.
It looks so familiar but as you say "it's such a long time ago" I can't remember any of the faults. Maybe one of the RGB transistors easy to find easy to fix swap two of the leads over to see if the tube was OK then change the transistor & remember to put the lead back on the right colour. Thanks.
Wow! Thanks for sharing! I can remember repairing these when I was in my self-employed years (1988 to 1999). Probably mostly repaired these in the very early 90's to mid 90's and tailing off right up untill the late 90's. They were bread and butter jobs, quick and easy to fix and move on to the next one 🙂
Excellent
What do you think about my Samsung UE70TU7175U please ? I have startup sound, backlight ok, no bootloop, light stays on but I have no image or menu. I think it can not be ckv problem because my TV is not rebooting can you confirm that ? Eeprom issue maybe ? Thanks for your help 👍
Well Done Michael and Thanks for Video , Reminders of the old Samsung Microwaves 30 years ago come out of factory with HV Rectifier fitted in Reverse .
Thanks for your time and effort fella! Stay lucky,stay safe!😉
You have to love a party speaker with a built-in drinks holder (which doubles as a handle).
Great video. Don’t underestimate yourself, there’s nothing you can’t repair 👍
Fascinating
Thank you very much! Subscribed
Excellent, now let's see if the one I've just been given has the same fault. Might need to buy that hot air iron now. 😆
Could you do a video on the Naim Atom please Michael?
On similar tube scan coil combos had the wedged fall out a few scan coils burn out
Wow that's a good fault why Sony used such a complicated start up /standby circuit God Knows that teletext board was used on the larger Sonys around the same time had dry joints and text decoder chips fail only
Thank you for sharing this video with us. Where ever there is drink there is likely to be a spillage especially when people get drunk! Surely the unit should have been deigned to be "drink proof"? What would happen if a whole pint were to go down the hole and get into the works of the unit?
Have switched F to transformer,works normal.Thanks
Michael I know it’s Impossible to always fix everything but it’s always worth posting videos as it’s also interesting seeing the thought process, and there are always subscribers that have suggestions on how to fix, (that’s if you have time to edit them) I think you are really knowledgable and your videos help and encourage a lot of people.
The more fancy flashing lights, displays etc, the more stuff to go wrong, nice repair Michael 👍
nice repair
They likely saved 1-2 pence by not gluing a piece of plastic over the 4 holes. Gotta love the bean counters!
Designed to fail. Thanks for the video!
Visionhire use to Rent a lot these to Pensioners , Thick Film Resistors were a new trend those days but Engineers were not keen on them. All the CRT s of that period seemed not to last as long as older Tvs and go soft .
We had a very similar-looking remote control version badged as 'Osaki', which was a Rumbelows house brand. Many a Sunday afternoon was spent in front of it with the Spectrum +2A. Happy days! :)
Brilliant!
Many thanks for that .
All those fancy lights and gewgaws and they still couldn't add some translucent lenses over the leds to keep the adult beverages out! Way to go JVC! Good quick repair Michael.
such a simple idea such as you say would have prevented this failure.
Great detective work Michael. Thanks as always for taking the time to make this video
No problem , many thanks for watching .
Ahh, JVC - Japan Victor Company, the high quality innovative company that invented VHS? Or could just it be the other JVC - Junk Very Currys 😉!
that's the one , JVC no longer exist, its just a brand name owned by Currys so no service information and that's why I never thought I would be able to repair this .
Definitely not the JVC of old and much of what is branded JVC these days is made by third party manufacturers.
You probably know, but JVC audio & TV products haven't actually been "real" JVC for many years now. They are supplied by Currys under a brand licensing deal. I was Technical Manager at JVC(UK) (and then JVC Kenwood) until 2016.
Yep , its all junk now , just like most famous brands of the past.
Hi Gary! Andrew ex Abacus Electronics, Leeds.
Brilliant design for a party speaker where drinks are likely to be spilled. Someones neighbours will not be happy that it is working again ! I would have left it broken.
too right , specially shaped holes to channel any spill just into the right place .
@@michaeldranfield7140 Fill the holes with thin smear of any translucent silicone, still might illuminate good enough, but doesn't matter if it doesn't.
Pretty poor design for something that would be used outdoors… Just a thought, cut a disc of thin clear plastic and glue it in under the control knob to try and give a bit more protection against future water ingress?
Or a blob of clear silicone sealant in each hole.
I would agree with that. possibly put some protection on the board itself.
very poor design , the manufacture's could have done this in the first place or even had plastic lenses over those four holes ..
Hi Michael, thanks as always for another great video. Never saw one of these sets back in the day but it seems well engineered and a cut above the earlier hybrid offerings from Pye. The CRT is probably past its best but it might be worth checking the value of the resistor in series with the heater supply, R632 (6.8 ohms) in case it has risen in value. Your set is fitted with an A61-520W, the quick heat version of the A61-120W. It boasted (when new) a 5 second warm up time and was obviously intended for use in solid state sets. It has a lower G2 potential (120V instead of 400V) and a lower heater current (240mA) but it might be possible to substitute an A61-120W with some circuit modifications. The EHT stated in the manual is 17.6KV so it would appear to read spot on
Many thanks for the info.
Michael - sorry - the Tektronic is a model 466! not 664! nick
Michael, have recently discovered your tv repair channel, have much enjoyed videos, I bought a 1980's oscilloscope at the Newbury radio meet last Sunday - in superb condition - instruction booklet still in it's sealed packet! the seller said it worked but the display was not very bright so I took a punt at £30 - sadly I cannot get any waveforms on the crt at all - only a bright dot when I press the beam finder button - tried feeding in various signals but nothing on the display at all, I wonder if this is something you may be able to assess/fix? it is such a lovely bit of kit I would really like to get it working - I have managed to download the full service manual so have all the info available - it's a Tektronix 664 - circa 1985 vintage, you may even have one yourself amongst your test kit as these were designed to work with TV's as well as general stuff, Any help would be appreciated, Regards Nick (Southampton)
scopes is something I have not really looked at before but if you have a single bright spot on the screen it would suggest both timebases have stopped which I would have thought very unusual unless they both share something in common such as a power supply rail .
@@michaeldranfield7140 Hello Michael, many thanks for reply, as this video was posted 2 years ago I was not sure of a reply, anyway - since my first message I have made some progress with this Oscilloscope - yes you are right- both timebases are absent - the beam finder works ok - so don't suspect the crt or high voltage ccts are down, I did some tests on the psu and the -8v supply is down to 5.7v also the 5v+ supply was low as well - and as both these supply rails share the same op-amp, reading the test voltages, it looks as if this has failed - I have ordered a replacement MC 1458P so will get psu outputs up to spec and see what happens. The fortunate thing with the Tektronix is I have been able to download the repair manual which has soo much information in it and the Oscilloscope itself is a superbly built piece of kit with plenty of test points and voltage readings printed on the cct boards. Hopefully will get it working soon. Will let you know how I get on, Are you planning to upload any more tv repair videos? Regards Nick
Love your channel, good memories and thank you Michael
Many thanks for that , more to come !
Great video, back in 80s 90s tvs back then when I was in the trade was brilliant and service was quite good back then, still doing repairs regarding back light repairs and more but things today people just seem to buy new
very happy days indeed , fault finding to component level , backlights are just boring and like you say few people have them done anyway .
This is my favourite content. I can watch this for hours. It's like a crime investigation.
no fun repairing flat panel sets , not like the old CRT .
any chance you could upload the schematic of how to build your own miliohmmeter as yes they are very expensive
I already have a video on youtube with links to the schematics for this meter
i know what that is as my nephew has got one exactly the same on his tv, he was shooting his brother with a nerf gun and missed it hit the TV square on so left a perfect circle same as that, its still there to this day as he kept the tv
13:11 we can also use a heat shrink tube. That is my humble opinion
Of course , I had not even thought about that when I made this video , heatshrink tube wasn't as common back in the 80s though as it is now .
I was guilty of looking at these with disdain when they first came out as I remember Thorn having to pull out all the strings to try and compete (TX85 i think was their budget 14in chassis designed to compete). After a couple of repairs (sanken module and inrush resistor) I was happier to see them as the faults were largely predictable. A bit like that Amstrad with the ceramic cap that used to split open. Easy repair once you'd done a couple. DSG group knew what they were doing after all!
These sets were the bread and butter repairs of the 80s and 90 s , easy to repair , after you had done a few they all suffered from the same common faults and were easy money makers.Happy days .
Wow great picture nice work Michael, those rubber wedges turning conductive reminds me of the Samsung glue that turns brown and conductive 😊
its strange how it became a common fault in some sets but not others , never had bad rubbers in Sony sets .
@@michaeldranfield7140 how strange! Just down to the composition of the rubber then!
Indeed! I remember Mitsubishi glue turning brown & conductive and eating through the PCB foil on the colour sub-boards too....
@@marksntl7632 shocking! It really is, on the old Samsung power supply boards it seemed to always be near the main filter cap and the standby transistor