Highly experienced Electrical Engineering Technician, Licensed Electrician, Automation and Auto Tech, and Jack of all trades in general, doing things around the house and garage, and capturing and editing videos. My goal is to provide helpful information for the next generations coming up, and everyone else!
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My heater just experienced this same error code. Tried cleaning the flame sensor, but that didn't fix the issue. Eventually figured out the gas valve solenoid was the problem. Was quoted $600 to replace the gas valve assembly, but decided not to go that route given my heater was 15 years old. Ended up replacing it. Hope I get 15 years out of the new one! One thing I did do -which may have helped extend the tank from rusting and leaking - was I changed the anode rod every 5 years.
I took a chance by replacing the gas valve. (~$300) The tank is still good, so far. I've been thinking I should replace the anode. Thanks for the suggestion, and thanks for watching. Good luck with the new water heater!
I wonder if I could put one on a 36 inch wide tiller
Probably not this particular one. It wouldn't be wide enough. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much. Very simple yet informative
You're welcome. I hope it helps!
My dad had one in the 70’s which he loved. Bought an ole 70’s model. Refurbished it and painted. The best thing that I did to it was the old motor with a new 7 hp Koehler motor. More torque at slower speeds. Very easy pull start. Great motor. Big difference for me. Easy install. Thanks for videos!
Very cool! Thanks for watching!
When you buy a brand new Troy-bilt Horse tiller like I did in 1995, it comes with a measuring rod to determine the exact tension on the belt. It works like a feeler gauge and goes in between the little wheel below the adjustment block and the face of the bracket to which the adjustment block attaches. If there is too much of a gap then you raise the block, too little and you lower the block.
Yes. The instructions are in the manual. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the update! you did a great job and thanks so much for sharing
Thank you for watching!
Thank you. Anti sway bar was what I needed and the belt tensioner advice was a plus.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Have the same deck, craftsman branded. Just put a new oem belt on, checked the winding a dozend times now. Belt rubs itslef between the tension pully and idler leading to the PTO. No more room to adjust tractor side position of the deck. Seen that before? Feels like the belt is 2" to short but its the right part number.
I haven't had to replace the belt on mine yet. My manual shows it's a Craftsman #196103. Apparently it's 147.5" long. Have you measured the new belt?
@@manabouthome Yah thanks, I figured it out, the Deck in the manual is not the same deck thats on the tractor. My manual shows a 54" deck but not the one that is installed. Manual's deck has 5 Pullys but my deck has 6. SO I got a 917.276380 Tractor, fitted with a 917.287461 Deck. Or something like that. Manual had me get a 191273 belt, 142". They don't make this easy. But can't complain to much, I got the whole thing for free, including the incorrect belt.
@@robertcola2573 You'll have trouble beating that deal! Good luck with it!
@@manabouthome Yah boss, its been an experience. Least only with the deck, the rest of the machine is great only 120hrs on it when I got it. Now the deck.... Left and right spindle housings each had one of the corners cracked, center spindle had fabric jammed up around it, and none of them had any grease in them. Replaced all 3, striped and repainted the bottom, The blades were a write-off. All and all should only be about $300 in once I get it up and running. Your vid definitely got me thinking in the right direction, thanks again.
Sounds great! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I had the same problem w/ my AO Smith unit. I thought I could just replace the bearing(s), but I was wrong - the impeller wouldn't come off the shaft. I ended up having to buy the whole blower assembly @ $300-ish. What a waste of $.
Yes, they're very expensive. When this tank eventually fails and needs to be replaced, I'm planning to sell the good parts on Ebay or elsewhere... try to recover some of the cost. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Just picked up a 1971 horse and it runs like a champ. Need to make a few repairs that are super easy and cheap.
Congrats! After some simple adjustments this year, mine is running better than ever. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Wonder if you can connect a raspberry pie to a switch that the fan is connected to. Code it so that if the heat or cool is running then turn fan on, else turn fan off. That way the fan does not require someone to manually turn it on/off.
Please check out my Duct Booster play list. I control it via a relay, with the furnace's Electronic Air Cleaner output. When the furnace blower is running, the booster is running. When it stops, the booster stops. Thank you for watching and commenting!
I had a leak about 6 years ago, drained oil, cleaned area of leak with break cleaner, let dry overnight, put Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker over the area let dry overnight put a 2nd layer on has not leaked again for 6years NEVER TOOK MOTOR OFF MOWER
That's interesting! Thanks for watching and commenting.
I had a leak about 6 years ago, drained oil, cleaned area of leak with break cleaner, let dry overnight, put Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker over the area let dry overnight put a 2nd layer on has not leaked again for 6years NEVER TOOK MOTOR OFF MOWER
That's interesting! Thanks for watching and commenting.
excellent video 👍 superb instruccion!!! You've earned a new subscriber
Thank you! And thank you for watching.
Fantastic video series and great troubleshooting steps!
Thank you. And thank you for watching!
Doing some reading on these gas control valve solenoid coils and they fail notoriously after 8-10 years. Instead of changing the whole module, why not simply swap out the coil after bending the metal tab back? Seems way simpler than undoing gas, electrical and water connections. I also can’t find the solenoid coil itself
After doing some more digging in online forums, I found someone else who bought the entire gas control module since the individual parts can’t be found and then swapped out the solenoid coil after bending the metal tab back…seems like the easier solution.
@@shahrukhbakar3248 Simpler doesn't make it better. Not knowing the internaI condition of the actual mechanical section of the gas valve, and having spent the money to buy a complete new valve, I replaced the entire unit. It makes more sense to use all new, and be safer.
You need to spray and kill the grass first. That grass is thick and intertwined. After it dies then till. It still is hard the first time but over time it will work much better. You should consider planting a cover crop. My Dad's Troy Horse tiller from the 1980 still works fine for me.
Thanks. This video is two years old. The cover crop is an interesting idea. That's what the farmers do here. Yeah, these old tillers do a good job. Thanks for watching.
Hello! I have the exact same rider, would like to have your email or phone number to ask you questions. Thank you for this video!
Thanks for watching. Please ask questions in the comments here, so others may benefit. I'll help if I can.
Can't see
how many miles on the vehicle?
Today: 137K. Back then: >100K
Great video
Thanks for watching!
nice vid dude. I got some useful information.
Happy it helped! Thanks for watching.
Should have a bountiful harvest
Thank you. Yep. Our first year with the garden produced more than we knew what to do with. Same on the second. But we're learning how to store and preserve more as we go.
Very good video sir .
Thank you! And thanks for watching.
I moved back home and bought the farmstead after my parents passed and got dads Troy built running. Couldn’t imagine how many years it sat. Got it over to where I’m going to till, tines down so a shallow dig. 😳 It about liked to pull my arms off. I watch this and you’re just digging away with nearly no effort. Dads tiller just jumped around and sped away, had me running after it. I’ve got to be doing something wrong. My GOD it nearly ruined me. 😂😂😂
That was my first experience when I was first breaking the established sod... in hard clay soil. It bucked and pulled and I had a tough time holding onto it. Now I know when I'm breaking hard ground I have to set the tines to dig only an inch or two. And then it takes 8 to ten passes to get to a decent depth. My soil only looks that good because I added three trailer loads of fine compost and tilled it into the clay. Without adding more organic material to the hard clay, it will compact and get hard again (and sticky, muddy when wet), and impossible to till. I'm getting more compost this year to continue amending the soil and breaking up the smaller clods of clay that are still remaining. One good tip.... if you can sharpen the tines, similar to how you'd sharpen lawnmower blades (check out my video on that), they will cut better in tough soil. Thanks for sharing your experience. I can relate to it! And thank you for watching!
I have this unit but only get one option to program "Auto Create 1-16 Sensors". I have updated to the lastest software, but I still can't man=ually add the original ID because the above is the only option in the menu. I have no idea what is going on.
A couple tips. Maybe they'll help? *Manual Create is in the manual that comes with the TS501, on page 50. *I just drilled down through the menu on my TS501, to get to the Manual Create option. I followed this path: Start>Main power up menu>TPMS>Car Make>Car Model>Date Range>Car Diagram... select MX-Sensor>Front Left>Option 4 - Manual Create. Good luck. Thanks for watching!
@@manabouthome Thanks for the reply :) Yeah if I drill down the same path I end up with only the 1 option. its really weird. I'm about to exchange it for a TS508. The menu is the one at 6:37 in your (awesome) video. Yours has all 4 selections , mine just has 1. Auto Create........
@@alanphillips4851 That's odd. I'd suggest contacting Autel Tech support. Who knows? Maybe they'd be helpful!
Thanks for this video. I’ll be doing this job soon. You mentioned a service manual for the 770 in another comment. Could you please share where you got the manual or just share the helpful info it provided? Thanks Eric
Eric, I have the manual that came with the loader when it was new. It's the Ford Series 770B Quick Attach Loader, Operator's Manual. They're available from several sources if you search. I'm also adding a link in the description. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Operators Manual for Ford Series 770B Quick Attach Loader Owners fits 1310 1510 1710 1910 Tractors www.amazon.com/Attach-Loader-Operators-Owners-Manual/dp/B07HSXKFTN?&_encoding=UTF8&tag=manabouthom0b-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=1a9eefc00b7aff2eb8b64945da9373ba&camp=1789&creative=9325 The manual shows a better way to disassemble the pistons.
Any chance you know the part number for that spring on the tensioner? Thanks
@smclennon4249 - The Craftsman manual indicates the part number is 196105 "Spring Drive".
I added a link in the description.
Why connect the duct blower to the heating plug instead of the cooling plug for the temp controller?
Good question. The temperature controller is set to heating mode, so when it senses cold air in the duct, it turns its heating output ON. It senses cold, so it turns on to try to heat it up, which it can't actually do. Then after the AC shuts down, and it warms up enough inside the duct, the controller thinks it warmed up to the temperature setpoint, so it turns the output (fan) off. Thanks for watching!
I want to thank you for all of the work that you put into making this video series. It was invaluable for me. Despite the fact that I rent my water heater (common in my area), I really didn't want to get the service guys involved. Last time I had them come out, I was informed that this style of heater is no longer available and must be replaced with a physically larger unit with added insulation. The problem is that the previous home owners had renovated the basement and had installed a bathroom that trapped the water heater in a corner between the furnace and the new bathroom wall. There was enough space to get the old heater out but putting a new one in would require removing the furnace, installing the new water heater and then re-installing the furnace. They were able to find an old heater that would fit but I was warned that was the last one. A couple of months ago, my heater started acting up and periodically required pulling the plug and resetting it. This finally got to the point where this would no longer work. Using your suggestions, I was able to confirm that the shut-off valve was working as it should. Ultimately, I ended up removing that burner / flame sensor assembly. The sensor looked OK, but I sanded it anyway and cleaned the burner. Like magic, it has been working flawlessly for the last week. My daughter who is home from college for the summer is very very happy to no longer have the surprise of freezing showers.
You're welcome. 'Happy to help! Thank you watching and commenting.
Would it be better with two belts installed?
There are older models that allow the use of two belts, and I agree, they must have a more positive drive with less belt slip. However, they changed somewhere along the line, and the "double pulleys" are actually different diameters. So you get a different drive ratio depending on which set of pulleys you have the single drive belt in. You can't double the belt(s), because they turn at different speeds. Thanks for watching!
Things I've read suggest that counter-rotating tines are best for hard soil. The machine won't run for the hills if the wheels and tines are rotating in opposite directions. Helpful video, though ... lots of ways to "live and learn"!
That seems logical, and I wish my tines were reversible. Thanks for watching!
My man thanks for putting your God given labor on display for instructive purposes ❤
Thank you for your kind comment. And for watching!
I use my 1978 Horse even still.
That's great! They're built to last!
I need to repair a flange on a outback to. The pipe is also 2 3/8 . Did you get the 2 1/2 inch flange kit ?
No. 2-3/8". I got it off eBay.
Your whole garden is about the size of my green bean plot.. I am impressed with your soil though!
We're just getting started. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing the videos, that's exactly what i needs😊😊😊
You're welcome. Happy to hear it! Thank you for watching and commenting.
Nicely done. I've been mulling over in my mind the idea of building a box that can sit in my utility trailer bed, and that has a tilt/dump capability.
Thank you for watching! Good luck with your trailer box.
My bathroom with cathedral ceilings has no exhaust fan. What trade should I contact, HVAC and a roofer?
I would think a good general handyman should be able to help. Thanks for watching!
You can get a belt at your local automotive store. first thing i would of done.
No it isn't. The first thing you would have done is try operating the machine to discover what the problems may be. Just like I did. Unless you like replacing parts for no good reason. Do you like replacing parts for no good reason?
I went through the exact same thing this afternoon. I used a pair of vice grips locked on the rim to hold the tire down and keep it from sliding around the rim. But I used the other end of the bar to push the tire onto the rim. I was putting a tube in the tire because I was tired of the tire leaking around the rim. God bless and I for one feel your pain. That's one job that I hope that i won't be doing anytime soon. 👍👍🙂
My tubeless seal has been good so far. They don't leak at all! Yes, it's a struggle with these stiff sidewalls as we've learned. Thank you for watching!
You also have two belt slots two the same size the the other which runs slower. Go slow, mines the same just n8 electric start
Yep. Thanks for watching!
A new belt in half sizes along with belt adjusting but once used you'll need to readjust. Look into non stretch belts also. Also lower speed works
Thank you!
Great video. I am considering the sno thrower attachment.
Thank you. Good luck with the snow blower. Mine has been virtually trouble free, except for some damage I inflicted. I haven't even had to replace a belt yet! Thank you for watching.
I just got the craftsman t100 rated at 11 hp. Any thought on if thats enough hp for a 42 in auger impeller? I did not think i needed the power i was using push mower and a 24 inc thrower. Now that i have the lawn tractor, i see the possibilities.
I looked that one up on Lowes... It doesn't appear that they offer a snow blower attachment for it. I don't know what's available for a smaller tractor/snow blower combination. You would also need tire chains and wheel weights. You have a gear/manual transmission, which is a good thing. Have you searched KZread to see what other guys are doing with your tractor model?
Does it matter what position the governor rod is in when installing the sump plate to engine?
I think all the way counter clockwise, because when you set up the governor linkage it turns all the way clockwise as shown in the video. Thanks for watching.
Thank you. Good video. Can you still open the back ramp on the trailer with the wood in there?
Thank you. You ask a good question. Yes, you can open the back ramp with the wood in there. However, the way I'm using it, the bottom of the wooden back panel is held from being pushed out by the load, with a 2x4 I simply lay down in there... between the bottom of the wooden back and the ramp. The top of the wood panel is firmly held in place by the brackets. So I have to remove the pressure on the wood by unloading the back part of the trailer before dropping the gate and removing the back panel. Now I'm thinking of improving this design by making the back wooden panel the full 60" wide. That way it can sit up against the back edges of the side panels. ...and be held in place with wooden blocks between the panel and the gate. Then if I want to open the gate, the load will push the wooden panel out and I can remove it, and unload materials down the ramp. Thank you for watching and commenting!
How about it? It runs and you engage blade and it stalls 15:25
I don't understand your question. It ran, I drove it away, I didn't engage the blade, and it didn't stall. ???? Thank you for watching.
This would be great if my problem was a bad add on cutoff switch. But it’s not. It’s just dead. No clicks no lights nothing. Ran fine for an hour and when I shut it off to fuel up it died.
I'd start with checking the battery voltage and connections. Then the fuse. There's one fuse.
Now I know what my landlady had hanging it the barn that I always wondered what it was for, not that I necessarily need it. Thanks so much.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for your great explanation and detail of this video. It is SO APPRECIATED. Have a great 2024
I'm happy to know it helped! Thank you for watching and commenting!
how did you add the wiring run?
Check out my Duct Booster play list. It's very detailed. Thank you for watching! studio.kzread.infoPLy4X9sohk8g2IrIbFvqt8Jy27h7Vqdp3M/videos