Welcome to Boost Factory! We are an AMVIC licensed and insured automotive repair facility located in Calgary, Alberta Canada. We specialise in Performance upgrades & Customisation of import vehicles. Primarily Geared toward The RB & JZ Engine platform. As well as the large scale Distribution of OEM & Aftermarket Nissan & Toyota Parts.
Subscribe to see content ranging from Dyno Tuning, Racing, Drifting, Product features / Reviews, Engine Building and so much more!
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Incredibly documented video and attention to detail well done 💪 .. I was always wondering about the by pass valve when doing a remote oil filter set up, just wonder was it a slip of the tongue or does it change function, but when u drill and tap in the bypass valve in the block it still acts as the bypass valve right? Not act as a pressure relief valve as u said because that’s in the pump body am I right? Not trying to pick fault, I’m doing a build and want it 110% and want my facts right 😀😂
glad it was helpful! it is a by pass valve yes, but it does relive the excess pressure in the oil filter that would build up with out it, allowing it to bypass the filter element under higher oil demand, so i guess its how you interpret the language. it does not operate as the oil pump bypass valve/pressure relief valve. as this one controls peak pressure.
1:15 what size are the screw plugs in the front and back? Those seem to be the only ones I’m missing. When I bought them from TerraFirma, I bought the amount they said, but I don’t think it accounted for the front and back. Is it the same as the ones on the side?
front and back is a weird metric size, you can either drill the hole out and run a 1/4 npt plug or you can use the appropriate size grub screw. this works well but need more thread locker to ensure a solid seal.
How much boost?
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
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❤❤❤❤❤❤Merci beaucoup pour le travail ❤❤❤❤
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Best build instructional I’ve seen. Your teaching style is very easy to follow, clear instructions no waffle. Would have loved to see this series continue right through to the engine running in the car.
Hey James! appreciate the support on the channel and this series! unfortunately this client was across country, but we will be trying to add more complete series' in the future!
@@boost.factory 👏👏
Thanks for the explanation at the start
Cam degree seems to be a little painstaking
yes it can be a bit lengthy, alternative method... adjust on dyno, if adds power good, if not remove!
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This content is GOLD!
Thanks for documenting the process looking forward to the next episodes
yooooo lookin' fwd to the next jz episode!! thanks so much for the jz build vids, absolutely superb!
Hey bro this video helped me so much just got mine done today and the prep of seeing it done and having an idea of what I needed to do made this job super easy thanks so much
7:03 - what psi do you use for leak down? 15:33 - where did yall get the black tomei timing belt? I’ve only seen the blue ones.
Subscribed! Great video!
Great video! Keep them coming 🙌
Sweet! Loving the jz content 🤘🏼
Great setup. I have a GBC-35 as well that’s about to hit the dyno. Was this on pump fuel and was what the rear housing on the turbo?
Right on! This is precisely why we got this up on KZread! There are no setups yet out there online with the gbc for reference. It is. .95 AR T4. Will ad this to the title and description!
@@boost.factoryperfect I have the same setup minus the cams. 93 octane or E85? Thanks for the quick reply. I subscribed and followed on IG. You guys are awesome 🫡👏👏👏
🔥🔥🔥 and the boy can DRIVE TOO!
Great video! Thank you for talking about the oil gallery plugs. Nobody talks about this and is often overlooked! If replacing with new balls instead of tapping, can they just be lightly hammered back in?
Thanks! we appreciate the support! also yes you certainly can just remove and replace the steel balls with a new set!
Guys do you remember color of the markings on valve sprigns ? green dot is intake ?
the part numbers on the RB25 NEO valve springs are the same intake and exhaust, the green marking or painted side of the Spring ( tighter wound coil end) usually goes towards the bottom/ down
Hi! I am currently working on my 26. I’m a little lost as I’m trying to work out what shims I require, but how do you work out the total shim clearance?
This step by step should apply the same to the rb26 head. The shims are just in a different location. You'll need to measure clearance and record, measure shim thickness and record. Then add or subtract to the shim thickness based on your desired clearance.
@@boost.factory got it sorted. Cheers for your help. 🤙🏽 just had to measure the original shim thickness as you said. Great video aswell, very detailed and anybody could do this from home because of it.
Robby boy gonna be a menace this year
What numbers did it hit? Would be cool to see the dyno graph as well.
475HP X 415TQ Will ad graphs in future videos!
Reply to myself....I don't know how I missed it but they did say it in the video. 2:24
I have been researching for a long time, but is there some good data somewhere that shows or discusses how the duration and lift affects the power bands in an RB26? Tomei Japan vs HKS vs Jun vs Kelford etc. Matching duration vs offset (like stock)? I am having a hell of a hard time selecting the best cams for my goals. Even after talking to some shops.
This is the problem most people face, but dont be discouraged. it's far less complicated than most make it seem. There is a happy medium with every setup. In a turbo application you need to match the amount of lift and duration to the size of turbo, this relationship comes down to air flow the turbo can move vs the air flow the cam will allow ( valve size and port work also have an effect of course). For example A cam to big will hurt low end power but flow up high, now if your turbo is smaller and caps out before the cam shaft even reaches is most efficient range, you are hurting your power capability. Kelford is an excellent manufacturer as they publish recommend turbo sizes for their cam shaft sizes. Making it easy to quickly reference the turbo I'm Milimeters.
@@boost.factory that is super helpful. In my RB26 I'm targeting roughly mid 500's whp on pump, but quick spool and response is priority. I'd sacrifice some top end HP for faster spool and "street/butt dyno feel". Based on Kelford's data, with a 62mm-ish turbo like a G35-900, camshafts with duration around 260-264 and lift of 8.9mm+/- to 9.9mm+/-. Based on the descriptions, the Kelford 264 low lift might be the best call, for a 62mm turbo.
I’m not a mechanic by any means but I have owned my r32 gtr for 13 years. This series was very educational, detailed & was awesome to watch! Would you be able to make some videos on some basic maintenance and services for these cars like coolant/oil flushes, brakes jobs, wheel bearings, etc..? Thank you so much
we can certainly ad that to the list of ideas! thank you!
This is gold. My pins don’t fit my rod. How much does a shop charge to fit the pins on to small bore
this will vary from shop to shop, a talented shop set up for this should only be a few hours to complete!
Did you find inner gear has more play against cranks flats than the oem inner gear? My reimax did so i had to grow the crank nose diameter to have a sligthly less play than the oem gears, not sure i did the right thing though.
They vary so much for collar to collar and even crank to crank, a safe rang is .006"-.010" clearance
@@boost.factory in my case it is a new oem long flat crank, many builders seemed to have a concern with the amount of play being the culprit for the inner gear braking, i ended up with a clearance just a bit less than the oem inner gear.
man i want to be to first to say thank you guys for all the information on the RB26 AND 25 VIDEOS continue to put out these types of content ,i am speaking for me and me alone when i say you guys and your videos convinced me to take my engine building trade INHOUSE .THANKS AGAIN GUYS .AND ALSO DO YOU GUYS HAVE A CONTACT.
Hey Hank! Awesome i am glad to hear it! you find a lot when you bring your engine in house. quality increases and you save a lot of money on other peoples oopsies! you can email [email protected]
@@boost.factory thanks .i will ,take care guys
Is the cams supposed to spin ince yiu install them?
Aside from valve spring pressure, they should spin easily. usually I try to verify this before installing valve train.
Question again Mr. Colton what is the product code for those main bearings , beacuse I see that the accommodate the main oil gally groves... with more oil gally holes for the crank. I know some machine shops for rb25s you can machine the grove to accommodate more oil once you get i am assuming these bearings .. please can you give some insight
Hey! This is a common design for the RB26 Bearings, and you are correct the rb25 block is often modified to suit these, and they are physically the same as the RB25 main bearings with the additional oil supply holes! this is the standard main part #7M2428H-STD And a link to our site www.boostfactory.ca/products/acl-nissan-rb26dett-high-performance-main-bearing-set?variant=39694841282644
@boost.factory thank you for your input , I will be attempting this mod to my rb25 , as well what are your thoughts on the calico coated acl bearings are they worth the extra especially for the rods? , great stuff btw I am about to do some upgrades to the oiling systm with the info you provided , porting the oil pump, the by pass valve insert etc..
Hey man bumping an old video, but I’m planning on running this pump and was wondering if this is still necessary if I have a done a relay mod where my pump sees constant 13v ?
Are you refiring to using the factory wiring? If so, you will need to upgrade the wires and use a power stud as the amperage will heat the factory wiring up and melt.
Im sure these videos will get tons of views over time likely a long term staple
Awesome series. Really excited for the Stagea build!
loved every video cant wait for some of the drag car thanks guys
Sweet!! Thnk you guys for making this. Now, Refurbish the ITBs and get um set up. =o)
I actually just did this on my personal engine! I will make a video on this
@@boost.factory WOOT!!!
Thank you for this series, great stuff 👌
Amazing video guys 👌
Really enjoyed these videos thank you!