Learn about CNC, robotics, and how to build cool stuff in your garage. I like to tinker with just about anything. Follow my adventures as I built combat robots, CNC machinery, and more!
what kind of steel brush u are using sir its not damaging the metal and its smoth
@mb11bam3 күн бұрын
That Prusa XL is just a piece of overpriced junk. Nothing else to it
@RobertCowanDIYКүн бұрын
Yep, you're absolutely right!
@dkastra264 күн бұрын
I only ordered the xl because it prints multicolor so quickly. I wouldn't know what materials I could combine or what I need it for. 😂
@heinebach36744 күн бұрын
I own 3 x K1 max and several other printers including a X1C and I cannot see any print quality difference in the parts I make between them (mostly printing PETG) and I run Orca slicer on them all now and all printers have stock nozzles... no problem here !
@ogpennywise4 күн бұрын
@8:55 you say that there is no way to adjust the "squish" you had ample amounts of? There is still a live z adjust, just like their other printers. You can adjust the z while printing. Slow the print down if you need to.
@tedz744 күн бұрын
How would you rank the K1 among the other printers you currently have? (X1C, Prusa mk4, others?)
@aldoandresmendozaguerra86514 күн бұрын
I just tune it and im getting everything at 340 speed , just perfect except for concentric infill (warps a lot wit cicular infill) but the rest is just perfect.
@Engineerd3d5 күн бұрын
I used the microsswiss hot end and nozzle on my regular k1, also had to upgrade the extruder to the newer version. The one thing I have to say is the microswiss nozzle is very nicely done and there is a noticeable difference in quality between it and a stock nozzle.
@Sillyzombie6665 күн бұрын
i have other printers and im dying to figure out how to fix settings, 2 need big tweeks to the supports to make it cleaner and then maybe some over hang work and a way to speed up one of them
@llkurofoxll10135 күн бұрын
Creality amirite
@AndyRC5 күн бұрын
You should have probably have done a PID calibration and a resonance test after changing the nozzle. I got lucky and my k1 is quite good. I did level my bed and rooted it. It is now my most reliable printer. I picked up one similar to the triangle lab one a while back. So I may try it.
@qwertyzxaszc63235 күн бұрын
I love my K1 Maxs, no issues other than hot end clogging.. I tried the Trianglelab CHCB-OT and it clogged right away. A K1 Max update solved the issue but it started leaking soon after.
@aldoandresmendozaguerra86512 күн бұрын
The problem is the filament
@hitf55 күн бұрын
Sell it. Cut your losses. Printer is junk.
@ManIkWeet5 күн бұрын
I don't own this printer nor do I plan on buying it or anything, but I watched the video anyway because I guess I find them relaxing & informative!
@Jimmy.Miller3 күн бұрын
Same, I watch all Roberts videos for the same reason!
@SarahKchannel5 күн бұрын
I see you having the stock bowden tube in place, might wanna swap that for a capricorn one. That normally gets rid of a lot of the flow issues. On all my printers I build spool holders with bearings, just the little less friction on a full spool reduces surface problems even more.
@crashkg5 күн бұрын
Do you have a link to all the test print STL's you used?
@joell4395 күн бұрын
👍😎👍
@DesignbyNilsson5 күн бұрын
@Robert Cowan Since you hate white filament, try Esuns Cold white PLA+, its just wonderful to print with, always a perfect result. Thanks for a nice video!
@huntliba5 күн бұрын
can't wait videos about S1 and T1
@simplegamerz94855 күн бұрын
I had a lot of the same problems on my k1 and I switched out my hotend to a similar one you put on and I increased all my speeds and acceleration and all my vfa’s disappeared and I also changed my print settings to print outer walls first and that helped too and I changed my extruder out for a printed one from printables. I have had to change the tension arm as it bent but it’s not a big deal and I put on a pei textured bed from an Ender 3 and that’s been working very well. But after doing all of that it’s been an amazing printer
@ZacksZachZakXah5 күн бұрын
This is dope. I have quite a few fence posts and rails from switching from a chain link to cattle panel fence. Thanks for the idea. I don't have a 3D printer, so I will be fabricated some of the other parts from wood, but I can finally put those posts to use instead of just hiding them in a corner in my yard.
@RobertCowanDIY5 күн бұрын
No problem 👍
@vplan7 күн бұрын
Absolutely genious!!!! Thank you!!!
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
You're very welcome!
@WndSks8 күн бұрын
Why not replace the existing feet entirely with some kind of cross or hexagon? This way the height of the feet could be reduced, the smallest one maybe just 5mm...
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
The underside of the planter needs some drainage.
@AndrewAHayes8 күн бұрын
I had a deposit down for an XL from the day it was announced, however, I got so sick of all the delays I took the deposit back, Bambu lab X1and X1C were released but initially I did not buy one hoping that they had a competitor for the XL in the pipeline and I waited 14 months and as we know there was no commercial competitor to the XL and so I bought an X1C and AMS and it is an awesome machine but even though I have calibrated the purge amounts there is still more wasteage than I am happy with.
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
Yeah, but that's like saying you had a reservation for a truck and got tired of waiting and got a sedan. They're totally different tools.
@ericmiddelbos1299 күн бұрын
thets a nice toy, i think i wold made it the way you can mowing grass to. lol farming
@armandsdreijers59839 күн бұрын
Please use one type of temperature readings not 260°C for 3D printers while showing us 56°F your room temperature. It is pretty confusing sometimes, specially when showing your "chamber" heat 96°F. Thank you mister, great info overall.
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
Fair point.
@STARDRIVE9 күн бұрын
In your experience, should the tip be sharper or more blunt than the drill bit?
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
It depends on what you're trying to do. A sharp point will dull or break if you're using it on hardened steel. But for aluminum and such, it can be fair sharper.
@samsin1029 күн бұрын
If I buy 4 of the same linear actuators and want to use one switch to activate them all simultaneously how would I go about wiring them together?
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
You'd wire it the same way you would any motor. Just wire them all in parallel.
@ned_mograph59579 күн бұрын
Where did you get your metal spoilboard?!?!?!
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
'world of clamping' is the company.
@ned_mograph59573 күн бұрын
@@RobertCowanDIY thank you! you are a gentleman and a scholar!
@SianaGearz9 күн бұрын
My favourite related material is HIPS Very cheap. Matte and pretty. Not actively hygroscopic. Not all that floppy, it's not PETG. Better UV resistance than ABS. Does not degrade in the hot-end as quickly as ABS. Little die swell. Good pressure control, does not ooze. It has that volatile poison but not too much of it, an order of magnitude less than ABS. Dimensionally very good, little shrinkage. Accepts sanding, painting and glue. Does not dissolve in acetone but can be welded with acetone. I can usually just print it open frame and instead of draft shielding i do the opposite, i just blast a little constant air on it, like 5-10% fan speed. Yes i'm sure i'm locking more tension in there than necessary but it works. You try that with ABS and it's a catastrophe. I don't know why HIPS gets treated as a joke, i think it's one of the best most versatile 3D printing materials. Bed adhesion is a little difficult. 100°C-ish and PVP coating helps.
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
Huh, I thought HIPS had poor UV resistance? It's also not great a exposure to heat, which would make it problematic in the sun.
@SianaGearz6 күн бұрын
@@RobertCowanDIY Compared to ASA, it is poor in these regards; but even when degradation by all reason should set in, it suffers less than ABS. ABS i could preheat the nozzle and then just crumbly shit would come out a mere 20 minutes later, because the material has thermally degraded in the meltzone. With HIPS, i have not been able to accomplish that in any humanly timeframe.
@arcounited10 күн бұрын
Nice Job... You may have said but are these AXA or BXA?
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
They are AXA.
@phuang310 күн бұрын
Quiescent current is important. I got a cheap no brand digital caliper for $4.00. It will only last few month with new LR44 battery.
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
Yep, that's what I was showing in the video.
@roboman244410 күн бұрын
Instead of laser cutting out a template, why not laser directly onto the lid? Even the cheapest and low power lasers would've been able to easily burn the template marks into the paint or some tape on it.
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
Sure, but lining that up would take more time.
@roboman244410 күн бұрын
Probably a good idea to offset the hose connector to the back. Free up some space above the filter.
@royalrepublican348010 күн бұрын
Bro, you could at least do us the favor of showing the result.
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
The result? Like, run exhaust into it for several months and show it spread out more evenly? This isn't rocket science, it's not going to be concentrated to the middle.
@StefanoLBP10 күн бұрын
Grazie from Italy… your video was very helpful for me
@BoffoCaveman10 күн бұрын
Psst. The runner length listed on the cut list are shown as 19 3/4" long, but that's the same length as the frame connectors (which means that the runners aren't long enough to screw to the uprights.) I think they need to be 26 1/2".
@RobertCowanDIY6 күн бұрын
AAAH, I'll fix that.
@CadGuy61911 күн бұрын
I would have printed a collar to stand off between your lid and filter by 1 inch first or designed it to replace the lid completely instead of cutting into the original lid. That's my 2 cents from the peanut gallery.
@woofguy11 күн бұрын
Prusa printers are garbage
@Cessna172G4 күн бұрын
How so? I’ve one and I love it!!!!
@moccaloto11 күн бұрын
Can you turn the Gothenburg into a filament respooling machine?
@Tiddy-boy-lacroix11 күн бұрын
I just cant justify the price of the mitutoyo. It would take a decade to for the power savings to pay for itself.
@WhyplayGaming11 күн бұрын
You should probably add a thin inside the thunal to allow full service area on the filter. You can make a turbine effect and should evenly spread the entire area
@alexpayne266211 күн бұрын
Does this work for 'potmetal'? Zinc alloys, usually used in airsoft guns. I have sourced Philip's Gun Blueing which is the best you can get for potmetal blueing. My main concern is that a lot of videos use linseed oil and they heat the parts, which is a problem for me I would much rather not have to try that out.
@willtron432711 күн бұрын
In my opinion the print and design turned out great for what it is. Will be looking forward to an update on how the performance turns out. Any thought on designing a swirl diffuser for the intake as a way to force the air towards the outside of the box?
@patrickcarpenter625811 күн бұрын
We def gonna need un update after a month or so of use and see if it's any better!
@sushsidnd11 күн бұрын
The original design was incredibly stupid. Only utilizing a small circular portion of a large rectangular filter is such a scam. I'm surprised anyone approved that design.
@timbrookman36611 күн бұрын
0.6 works fine with the Prusa XL; I have 3x 5T XL’s all with 0.6 nozzle and they print super clean. I think you didnt export your model with enough quality as you can see all the triangles on the long sloping sides. What firmware and slicer version are you running, because scarf seams work pretty well for hiding seams.
@JamesTenniswood11 күн бұрын
I thought you were going to laser cut the lid!
@bernardtarver11 күн бұрын
Until there's evidence of efficacy, I wouldn't call it a fix. Addressing a design flaw, perhaps.
Пікірлер
Thank you !
what kind of steel brush u are using sir its not damaging the metal and its smoth
That Prusa XL is just a piece of overpriced junk. Nothing else to it
Yep, you're absolutely right!
I only ordered the xl because it prints multicolor so quickly. I wouldn't know what materials I could combine or what I need it for. 😂
I own 3 x K1 max and several other printers including a X1C and I cannot see any print quality difference in the parts I make between them (mostly printing PETG) and I run Orca slicer on them all now and all printers have stock nozzles... no problem here !
@8:55 you say that there is no way to adjust the "squish" you had ample amounts of? There is still a live z adjust, just like their other printers. You can adjust the z while printing. Slow the print down if you need to.
How would you rank the K1 among the other printers you currently have? (X1C, Prusa mk4, others?)
I just tune it and im getting everything at 340 speed , just perfect except for concentric infill (warps a lot wit cicular infill) but the rest is just perfect.
I used the microsswiss hot end and nozzle on my regular k1, also had to upgrade the extruder to the newer version. The one thing I have to say is the microswiss nozzle is very nicely done and there is a noticeable difference in quality between it and a stock nozzle.
i have other printers and im dying to figure out how to fix settings, 2 need big tweeks to the supports to make it cleaner and then maybe some over hang work and a way to speed up one of them
Creality amirite
You should have probably have done a PID calibration and a resonance test after changing the nozzle. I got lucky and my k1 is quite good. I did level my bed and rooted it. It is now my most reliable printer. I picked up one similar to the triangle lab one a while back. So I may try it.
I love my K1 Maxs, no issues other than hot end clogging.. I tried the Trianglelab CHCB-OT and it clogged right away. A K1 Max update solved the issue but it started leaking soon after.
The problem is the filament
Sell it. Cut your losses. Printer is junk.
I don't own this printer nor do I plan on buying it or anything, but I watched the video anyway because I guess I find them relaxing & informative!
Same, I watch all Roberts videos for the same reason!
I see you having the stock bowden tube in place, might wanna swap that for a capricorn one. That normally gets rid of a lot of the flow issues. On all my printers I build spool holders with bearings, just the little less friction on a full spool reduces surface problems even more.
Do you have a link to all the test print STL's you used?
👍😎👍
@Robert Cowan Since you hate white filament, try Esuns Cold white PLA+, its just wonderful to print with, always a perfect result. Thanks for a nice video!
can't wait videos about S1 and T1
I had a lot of the same problems on my k1 and I switched out my hotend to a similar one you put on and I increased all my speeds and acceleration and all my vfa’s disappeared and I also changed my print settings to print outer walls first and that helped too and I changed my extruder out for a printed one from printables. I have had to change the tension arm as it bent but it’s not a big deal and I put on a pei textured bed from an Ender 3 and that’s been working very well. But after doing all of that it’s been an amazing printer
This is dope. I have quite a few fence posts and rails from switching from a chain link to cattle panel fence. Thanks for the idea. I don't have a 3D printer, so I will be fabricated some of the other parts from wood, but I can finally put those posts to use instead of just hiding them in a corner in my yard.
No problem 👍
Absolutely genious!!!! Thank you!!!
You're very welcome!
Why not replace the existing feet entirely with some kind of cross or hexagon? This way the height of the feet could be reduced, the smallest one maybe just 5mm...
The underside of the planter needs some drainage.
I had a deposit down for an XL from the day it was announced, however, I got so sick of all the delays I took the deposit back, Bambu lab X1and X1C were released but initially I did not buy one hoping that they had a competitor for the XL in the pipeline and I waited 14 months and as we know there was no commercial competitor to the XL and so I bought an X1C and AMS and it is an awesome machine but even though I have calibrated the purge amounts there is still more wasteage than I am happy with.
Yeah, but that's like saying you had a reservation for a truck and got tired of waiting and got a sedan. They're totally different tools.
thets a nice toy, i think i wold made it the way you can mowing grass to. lol farming
Please use one type of temperature readings not 260°C for 3D printers while showing us 56°F your room temperature. It is pretty confusing sometimes, specially when showing your "chamber" heat 96°F. Thank you mister, great info overall.
Fair point.
In your experience, should the tip be sharper or more blunt than the drill bit?
It depends on what you're trying to do. A sharp point will dull or break if you're using it on hardened steel. But for aluminum and such, it can be fair sharper.
If I buy 4 of the same linear actuators and want to use one switch to activate them all simultaneously how would I go about wiring them together?
You'd wire it the same way you would any motor. Just wire them all in parallel.
Where did you get your metal spoilboard?!?!?!
'world of clamping' is the company.
@@RobertCowanDIY thank you! you are a gentleman and a scholar!
My favourite related material is HIPS Very cheap. Matte and pretty. Not actively hygroscopic. Not all that floppy, it's not PETG. Better UV resistance than ABS. Does not degrade in the hot-end as quickly as ABS. Little die swell. Good pressure control, does not ooze. It has that volatile poison but not too much of it, an order of magnitude less than ABS. Dimensionally very good, little shrinkage. Accepts sanding, painting and glue. Does not dissolve in acetone but can be welded with acetone. I can usually just print it open frame and instead of draft shielding i do the opposite, i just blast a little constant air on it, like 5-10% fan speed. Yes i'm sure i'm locking more tension in there than necessary but it works. You try that with ABS and it's a catastrophe. I don't know why HIPS gets treated as a joke, i think it's one of the best most versatile 3D printing materials. Bed adhesion is a little difficult. 100°C-ish and PVP coating helps.
Huh, I thought HIPS had poor UV resistance? It's also not great a exposure to heat, which would make it problematic in the sun.
@@RobertCowanDIY Compared to ASA, it is poor in these regards; but even when degradation by all reason should set in, it suffers less than ABS. ABS i could preheat the nozzle and then just crumbly shit would come out a mere 20 minutes later, because the material has thermally degraded in the meltzone. With HIPS, i have not been able to accomplish that in any humanly timeframe.
Nice Job... You may have said but are these AXA or BXA?
They are AXA.
Quiescent current is important. I got a cheap no brand digital caliper for $4.00. It will only last few month with new LR44 battery.
Yep, that's what I was showing in the video.
Instead of laser cutting out a template, why not laser directly onto the lid? Even the cheapest and low power lasers would've been able to easily burn the template marks into the paint or some tape on it.
Sure, but lining that up would take more time.
Probably a good idea to offset the hose connector to the back. Free up some space above the filter.
Bro, you could at least do us the favor of showing the result.
The result? Like, run exhaust into it for several months and show it spread out more evenly? This isn't rocket science, it's not going to be concentrated to the middle.
Grazie from Italy… your video was very helpful for me
Psst. The runner length listed on the cut list are shown as 19 3/4" long, but that's the same length as the frame connectors (which means that the runners aren't long enough to screw to the uprights.) I think they need to be 26 1/2".
AAAH, I'll fix that.
I would have printed a collar to stand off between your lid and filter by 1 inch first or designed it to replace the lid completely instead of cutting into the original lid. That's my 2 cents from the peanut gallery.
Prusa printers are garbage
How so? I’ve one and I love it!!!!
Can you turn the Gothenburg into a filament respooling machine?
I just cant justify the price of the mitutoyo. It would take a decade to for the power savings to pay for itself.
You should probably add a thin inside the thunal to allow full service area on the filter. You can make a turbine effect and should evenly spread the entire area
Does this work for 'potmetal'? Zinc alloys, usually used in airsoft guns. I have sourced Philip's Gun Blueing which is the best you can get for potmetal blueing. My main concern is that a lot of videos use linseed oil and they heat the parts, which is a problem for me I would much rather not have to try that out.
In my opinion the print and design turned out great for what it is. Will be looking forward to an update on how the performance turns out. Any thought on designing a swirl diffuser for the intake as a way to force the air towards the outside of the box?
We def gonna need un update after a month or so of use and see if it's any better!
The original design was incredibly stupid. Only utilizing a small circular portion of a large rectangular filter is such a scam. I'm surprised anyone approved that design.
0.6 works fine with the Prusa XL; I have 3x 5T XL’s all with 0.6 nozzle and they print super clean. I think you didnt export your model with enough quality as you can see all the triangles on the long sloping sides. What firmware and slicer version are you running, because scarf seams work pretty well for hiding seams.
I thought you were going to laser cut the lid!
Until there's evidence of efficacy, I wouldn't call it a fix. Addressing a design flaw, perhaps.