Practical Design for Custom 3D Printed Parts
Ғылым және технология
The planter by our front door isn't sitting flat and quite frankly I'm losing sleep over it. Thankfully I have a few 3d printers, so I can fix this massive shame on my household. Designing your own parts is the greatest part of owning a 3d printer, you just have to keep in mind what you're trying to accomplish.
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Tools Collection on Printables - www.printables.com/@cowanrg_1...
• Common Tools for Measu...
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00:00 Intro
00:47 Defining the Problem
01:42 Level Headed Solution
02:21 Sketching Dimensions
05:53 Measuring Radiuses
08:27 Modeling the Part
13:11 Filament Selection
14:25 What's the Problem We're Trying to Solve?
15:31 Finished Part
16:25 Conclusion
Пікірлер: 57
I find that in Fusion if I start filleting corners in the sketch I end up painting myself into a corner (pun intended). I do all sketches as straight corners and then fillet the bodies. Solidworks might be different when designing parametrically.
@alessiocarlevaro6934
Ай бұрын
it applies to solidworks aswell, the model is more "stable"
@c0mputer
Ай бұрын
Same here. It complicates the sketch too much and if I want to change them it often gets all screwy. I now just filet everything as a final step.
@therick0996
Ай бұрын
Yep same here. Really easy to find it in the timeline and adjust, too
@_IanOfEarth
Ай бұрын
F360 user as well, agreed.
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
SAME! All the corner references are gone and it gets cranky with too many fillets.
I am very proficient in hand drawing, sketching and technical drawing, yet I do everything digitally for like 20+ years. My main method for this rough designs is to take a image with a camera, or slap it onto a flatbed scanner. Use the photo as import into CAD and scale to known dimension. Then I just have to trace the important outlines and features. I find that way faster then to try and measure angles and every detail.
Just for small parts. Two ideas that I’ve used (I usually scan) 1) scan the part on a photocopier or flat bed scanner then scale to a known length. 2) trace around the part and sue a protractor and a circle template - like a Math-o-mat to size the radii.
💯great tutorial, thanks
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
Next time just put the level on top and shim the level until it is level. Then measure your shims under the level. This wat you dont have to bend al the way to the ground to measure and try.
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
Yeah, duh, that's a good idea. Next time!
@3dmazter
Ай бұрын
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I made my own hexagonal posts for my front porch and needed some kind of cap to put on them. After looking at the big box stores and not finding anything that would work, it dawned on me that I could 3d print my own. After two years in the sun and weather, I don't see any deterioration of the pla that I used to print them.
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
Nice! Colorado gets a lot of sun and I've had a few PLA parts completely deform after a year or two.
Nice job and you got a snap, which is super cool
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
Ha! You always gotta design for the snap.
I make very rough sketches in notebooks especially if I'm not home. But (this may be because I'm dyslexic) I find it easy to build it on the fly, i'v been trying hard to put all features into the original fusion sketch. But normally I build on the go, so you can imagine my timeline is usually very long. But like I said it may be due to my dyslexia I tend to imagine the finished project in my head.
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
I've very much learned my style of 'drawing' and can even reference them many months or even years later and generally understand what I was trying to do ;-) It's all about being consistent I guess.
The best solution is often the simplest one! I think a lot of projects fall into that exact over complicating rabbit hole.
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
Right? I just wanted to remind the internet not everything has to be an epic project.
I (a completely unbiassed fellow Rotring 800 user) have to say you have really good taste in pencils.
@therick0996
Ай бұрын
Rotring is so nice
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
Heh, nice catch ;-)
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
For sure, it feels so much nicer.
@dirtdart81
Ай бұрын
Oh man, I haven't heard about Rotring in years! Loved the way it felt, but too heavy for my daily driver
I did something very similar for my dad's camera doorbell. i made piece with an angle and the correct mounting holes so that he could get it to the right angle because he was mounting it onto some siding that was at an odd angle. and of course a second one when the angle wasn't quite right which was as easy as changing the number in cad and reprinting it.
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
Nice! 3d printing is great for stuff like that. Nice job.
I love practical prints
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
Same! That's 95% of what I do with a 3d printer.
Useful video. I struggle with modelling existing parts accurately. Ive tried to use photos as a canvas but the dims get heavily distorted What print settings do you use for ASA? Enclosure? Ventilation?
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
I think a lot of it comes with experience. Trying to understand how it was actually designed, what decisions were made, etc. If you can think backwards how the original designer made choices, that helps a lot. I've never done the photo thing, it doesn't really work well for me, mentally. I have a video where I discuss printing ASA - kzread.info/dash/bejne/maOGmK2bmszPmJs.html
I have to be honest, my favorite thing to print with is PLA+ , it prints basically like PLA, but a slightly higher temp, and is made with UV resistant materials. It handles outdoors well and doesn't have the picky printing features of ASA. Yes its slightly more expensive than PLA but its super easy to work with and it works outdoors. But nice job on the part!
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
I've done quite a bit of research and PLA+ is still very much PLA. It's better in some ways, but it will still warp over time (creep) and isn't good for constant loading. However, most designs should be fine for PLA or PLA+, as long as you keep these things in mind.
hi robert, when printing asa on a p1s, i have all kinds of problems with bed adhesion and warping. im amazed to see you printing it on an open prusa. could you, if you don't mind, tell me some parameters and also what kind of bed you're using? thanks in advance.
@newmonengineering
Ай бұрын
Honestly, just my personal opinion, I use PLA+. The plus means they added a few things to it. Most PLA+ is super simple to print with like PLA, but it is also UV resistant and works well outdoors. It's only slightly more expensive than PLA, and you only need to raise the temperature a small amount and it should print with basically the same settings as PLA does with just a small bump in the temperature. I have tried many materials, and I just find things like ASA a little to picky to get a decent print. It can be done but I don't waste my time with it when PLA gives me what I want easier.
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
It's not a new magic material, it's just PLA that's slightly better at the things PLA is bad at. It's no substitute for ASA where ASA is necessary.
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
Slow it down and use a thin layer of glue and you should be fine. Bambu tries to print EVERYTHING way too fast. Just run the same file, but select the silent speed setting and use glue stick.
For me a open question is how much walls, infill percentage and witch infill pattern have you selected?
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
I just used the default 'speed' 0.2mm setting. With ASA, it should be plenty strong enough here. Especially since there aren't many large bodies, the majority of the print will be wall or floors/ceilings. There's not a lot of room for infill.
@berlinberlin4246
Ай бұрын
@@RobertCowanDIY thank you
I almost exclusively use petg. I'll have to give ASA a try.
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
It's worth a shot for sure.
Why not replace the existing feet entirely with some kind of cross or hexagon? This way the height of the feet could be reduced, the smallest one maybe just 5mm...
@RobertCowanDIY
28 күн бұрын
The underside of the planter needs some drainage.
I guess your intent here was to show your design process, as apposed to just making the part. Since the part will be almost completely covered by the pot, any of those inside dimensions aren’t that critical, so just slap it together and print it. 😂
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
Also, since you double-posted, so can I! NONE of these dimensions are critical, I could have just printed a 6.5mm tall rectangle and it would have worked. But I would have known how sloppy it was and fixed it later ;-)
@MrDksmall
Ай бұрын
@@RobertCowanDIY Sorry about that, KZread kept telling me I timed out, so I kept hitting send. 😊
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
@@MrDksmall No worries, YT likes engagement, so an extra comment only helps.
@MrDksmall
Ай бұрын
@@RobertCowanDIY Well in that case let’s talk about the new X1E with AMS I got at work. 😝
I think the main issue with your drawings is that you’re using your left hand!
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
OOOOH, that's my problem.
I guess your intent here was to show your design process, as apposed to just making the part. Since the part will be almost completely covered by the pot, any of those inside dimensions aren’t that critical, so just slap it together and print it. 😂
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
Ha yeah. I did actually make this whole part off-camera and then when I was done though, you know, I should have filmed that... But this is an example of a part I would (and did) actually make on my own time when the camera was off.
@MrDksmall
Ай бұрын
@@RobertCowanDIY Still watching the video and I’m thinking “what filament did he use?” We got a new printer at work and I’ve done a few prints with ASA and I agree, it really looks good, especially off of the textured plate.
@RobertCowanDIY
Ай бұрын
@@MrDksmall Yeah, I was really surprised. It prints just like PLA.