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  @user-nd5bx8fk6v16 сағат бұрын

  We sell Idler Pulley that may fit your equipment. We're happy to offer you a product sample in exchange for a video review. Let me know if you are interested.

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  @136123 күн бұрын

  I have one 72770 so this is 1977 on the 277th day? V5060229J SER 72770

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  @Mr_Tecumseh3 күн бұрын

  @@13612 Yea that should be it, 7=1977, 277=277th day. If it has points it’s definitely ‘77, if it has a modern coil above the flywheel it would be 87. Not sure What 0 is standing for at end or the V50 number. But 7277 is for sure.

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  @sparkplug54814 күн бұрын

  Where have you been?

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  @Mr_Tecumseh4 күн бұрын

  @@sparkplug5481 Living life to the fullest. Not making videos right now. I’ll be back in the future.

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  @markdufrene24435 күн бұрын

  i hope you get help and speak to someone about your issues man always remember it is not a one way street of blame.untill you love you do not try to love another.i just took an 8 year break on everything no dates no sex nothing. i finally just asked a very much younger nurse out and she said yes and took my number. i was just given a 2003 recycler and it is in missing a crap ton of parts which is almost the price of just buying a new one but i hope to find diagrams of the one i have so i can homemade this shit like a macgyver !!!

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  @Mr_Tecumseh5 күн бұрын

  @@markdufrene2443 It’s been 2 years since that video was taken. Doing 100x better than I was then, but thank you for the words of encouragement. I would try and find one complete with a blown motor or something cheap and get all the parts you need that way. Good luck on your project. 👍

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  @markdufrene24435 күн бұрын

  @Mr_Tecumseh wonderful man we have to speak Outlook the shit we need to do.too many of us getting to far down the rabbit hole.

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  @Mr_Tecumseh5 күн бұрын

  @markdufrene2443 I think a lot of people fall into slumps, but ultimately come out of them. Like baseball players. However if your not coming out of a slump, than you need to go step further to help get out of a slump.

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  @ronz1016 күн бұрын

  The XP series has been problematic at worst frustrating. The drive mechanism with that (split) drive shaft pulley is a hurtle. That is until you refigure the parts placement and how it goes back together. That wheel speed dial and how it works and it's settings...well, somebody had a wet dream over that. 😮

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  @Mr_Tecumseh5 күн бұрын

  @@ronz101 lol. Besides the crappy drive system, they were pretty solid mowers, too bad for the poor engineering of that. From what I can see, they weren’t around too long either, so they found out pretty fast that they had screwed up.

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  @ketilkreybu1226 күн бұрын

  restrictorplate in intake for the 12hp

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  @ronz1017 күн бұрын

  Frustrating

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  @Mr_Tecumseh7 күн бұрын

  Yea, but when it gets’s like that, cut your losses. I was able to remove all self propelled components and make it a nice push mower. Ordering the trans for that wasn’t feasible for the amount I would have received resale.

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  @ronz1017 күн бұрын

  I have a little 3.5 Tecumseh push mower that carves circles around this overweight dinosaur . 😂

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  @Mr_Tecumseh7 күн бұрын

  @@ronz101 Was it a Craftsman Eager 1? I had one from 1991. Nicest little lightweight push mower I ever owned. Wish I didn’t get rid of it. Even when self propelled is working on those other machines they are still more work to use than those little lightweight push mowers and they were built so well. Most people can’t comprehend that fact. Theirs a video of it up towards the end of my list of videos. But someone took it for $150 so I couldn’t argue with that being a ‘91. It was someone who knew how good they were. After removing all those components off that one in this video, which included the trans, belt, pulley, cables, gears, pieces from the handle that controlled the self propelled it basically turned into an MTD push mower they made but with a slightly more solid deck. Not like pushing a self propelled old Toro with all those components still intact but dead. But I hear you, I prefer lightweight walk behinds over self propelled any day.

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  @Mr_Tecumseh7 күн бұрын

  @@ronz101 Here it is, like you said, It could run circles around any heavy mower. I could use it like a vacuum cleaner, one arm, boom, boom. Plus it had a Throttle still and I liked the sound it made, mower’s don’t sound like that anymore. I hope I get another one. 1991 and I filmed that in 2023. 32 years old. That’s unheard of from mowers made now. kzread.info/dash/bejne/f3yLr7RrccnQmLw.htmlsi=hutQpyi_N9mIYKCe

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  @ronz1017 күн бұрын

  Yeah. First cousins. Pulled the engine (marked edger) off it's Craftsman edger frame and remounted it on an MTD frame. Winterized properly; it just keeps going You are so right about the 90's timeline and growl.​@@Mr_Tecumseh

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  @oscarjones57738 күн бұрын

  Wheelhorse 252-H & 257-H during 1988 & 1989. This peerless/Tecumseh transaxle used an Eaton 7 (700) pump which is still manufacture, supported, and widely used to this day. It’s a Wheelhorse because of the red paint and I believe the reservoir size.

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  @gedeonclavet29469 күн бұрын

  I just did that but with m’y push mower

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  @Mr_Tecumseh9 күн бұрын

  @@gedeonclavet2946 Did what?

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  @lefty546310 күн бұрын

  Thanks man for posting this video, i was going to by one tomorrow with a online coupon discount. I am too old to be mounting it and its not working well, then i have to take it out again. I will run to Home Depot and by one.

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  @frankiefixdiy12 күн бұрын

  Sweet, just found one today for 30 bucks.

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  @randyswanner173714 күн бұрын

  That is a fine machine, mine is similar and can't find model number. Would you share yours

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  @Mr_Tecumseh13 күн бұрын

  Thanks, they were well made reliable machines. Unfortunately it was a flip so I don’t have it to check, but I’ll look around and see if I have a record of it someplace. I know it was 917. Just don’t know the last digits at the moment. I’ll get back to you.

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  @mayancivilization20 күн бұрын

  It looks neat. My question is how to install one without removing the toolbox?

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  @Mr_Tecumseh20 күн бұрын

  Reinforce the box inside with a sheet of steel that bends on each side so the box has strength from the front and both sides and than bolt the winch to the front of the box with the mounting hardware going thru the steel inside the box.

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  @douglasharrington300325 күн бұрын

  I was told they weren't using paint. That it's powdercoated

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  @Mr_Tecumseh25 күн бұрын

  I forget what they did. But 1979 and back that paint doesn’t come off for nothing. 1980 and for about a decade, the paint peels off in sheets. It’s since been resolved but will still never hold up as good as the paint they used from 1960-1979 which I guarantee was lead based.

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  @moviemaker3910027 күн бұрын

  I picked up a 1979 10 hp 32 wide Ariens 924044 with the differential lock. It would appear that mine is missing the knob that is used to change the differential lock from IN to OUT. First question, does IN mean the axle is lock or the does the OUT mean that. I'm assuming IN means locked. Second question, my unit does not have the big white knob, but I can see the metal piece the knob connects to and the label is there indicating IN and OUT. From the manual it says to change from locked to unlocked you pull on the knob and turn it. I have grabbed this with a vice grips and pulled on it and or tried to turn it but it won't budge either way. Any advice? It's currently locked which is fine for blowing snow but this giant blower is a bugger to move around in the summer time with both wheels locked together.

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  @Mr_Tecumseh26 күн бұрын

  In is locked. There should be a knob there. If not it broke off or the roll pin holding it on fell off or rusted out. They can seize from moisture and rust, spray it with a lubricant. The knobs have big pins that pop into holes in the rim to lock it. Get behind the rim and spray that lubricant at that pin and on any areas that look like there supposed to move. You can also get behind the rim and take a hammer and punch and tap the pin back out from the hole it’s in on the rim to help knock the pin loose and out to unlock it than you should be able to turn it into the out-unlocked position. Not all Ariens had the differential, some were solid one piece axles but it sounds like yours has it or outleast half of it remaining. If the knobs busted off you can order a new locking hub. Good used ones eBay. Gotta take the rim off and knock the roll pin out that holds that larger piece of the lock out than it will pull off and you can install a new one. Those knobs on those locks have a spring if it wasn’t missing, lube behind that too if it’s there. But it sounds like yours in missing the knob so the pin must be just sitting in the hole of the rim. Maybe you can grab it with vise grips to pull it out to unlock it until you replace the locking hub.

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  @moviemaker3910026 күн бұрын

  @@Mr_Tecumseh thank you. Ive done some more looking and there are workarounds people have used when the locking knob is not there or it is broken.

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  @Mr_Tecumseh26 күн бұрын

  @@moviemaker39100 No problem. Without a photo of it it’s hard for me to say for sure. But as far as I know they only ever made that one version locking hub except the really early ones from the early 60’s. But 1965- about 2004 all used that same lock. It changed appearance over the years as far as colors and style but it was still the same thing besides that. After that they went to the machines that have auto turn so there’s no more locking hub on those, but from what I hear they don’t work so well, they can’t hold a straight line like the ones you could lock could. But before that they either had a differential with that lock or no differential and a solid axle you could not unlock, but those just have plastic caps on them. Yours definitely has the lock if it says in/out. But back then the lock was there more for attachments like the mower that had to be able to turn free so you didn’t tear up the lawn. When I use mine in snowblower mode which is all I have now I just keep the thing locked basically all the time. It is nice to be able to unlock it to move it around if you need though. Your knob must have broke off it, because I recall it breaking off mine once and I ordered one used on eBay and replaced it. They’re cheap enough and they have every style of them as far as the colors and writing went on there. I have a 1987 Ariens that has it, same thing just looks different in appearance (color, writing). Take the 3 bolts off and pull the wheel off you’ll see it better. Then you can get a hammer and a roll pin punch and knock the big roll pin out and pull it off. After that you can replace it and you should be set. I have an extra one, like the one in the video sitting around now. Here’s my ‘87. It has it too, different color and decal but otherwise the same. May be hard to tell, don’t know if I got close up on it in that video. But that lock was around a long time about 40 years or so before they moved on. If you want some photos of the one I have off to show how it looks intact and how it works, leave your email and I’ll send you them and than remove the contact info after I got it. kzread.info/dash/bejne/en-Bqsl6pbbOpM4.htmlsi=wGY9d0KI9VtpSM1i

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  @derekgibson869727 күн бұрын

  Out wd-40 on the cap and it wont stick up.

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  @Mr_Tecumseh27 күн бұрын

  It works for flipping them. How long did it take before it fell off? Did you shake the can and spray they patch liberally cuz once it’s on, it does not come off, if it fell off right away you did something wrong. Cuz if you get that stuff on your fingers the only way it’s coming off is with sandpaper. If it’s your machine get out the needle and thread, I have, about 1000 times now. Not sure what you mean by mentioning the lubricant WD-40 a lubricant on a video about adhesives.

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  @davidcoudriet8439Ай бұрын

  Man, that looks NEW!

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  @henrylavigne9596Ай бұрын

  Two different colors did not work for me. I will keep looking.

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  People keep complaining about it. Unless you wanna pay sears $60 bucks for 1 can of there spray paint which is still available on the partsdirect site, that’s about a closest match your gonna get. I know I’m not giving Sears $60 for a tractor I’m flipping. I’ve touched up a few of those tractors with the above mentioned paint and had no issue blending it into a match to where it was un-noticeable. I repainted this walk behind completely with it and you couldn’t tell it had been repainted unless I told you and even then, it looks stock. Try automotive brands or others, if you find a dead on match at $10 or less like I was let me know. Here’s the push mower. Looks stock. kzread.info/dash/bejne/f5t21Zavp5epZKw.htmlsi=uK_CYt7D0LHo7hP-

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  Commentor down below says Buick polo green. Older 90’s car. If you can find that stuff then there ya go. If you do, it’ll be a 12oz can of duplicolor at $15.99+ tax, but if you need two cans you’re already at $32. So use it sparingly, those 12oz cans don’t spread far. My option worked for me. If you want it perfect, for like a personal machine might be worth getting the Sears paint but for flipping, the name of the game is keeping costs to a minimum and saving as much time and turnover. So if I can get the paint to blend and it’s not noticeable which it hasn’t been and the tractor sells no problem, the end goal was met.

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  @Turningwrenches85Ай бұрын

  Looks like you had a good time

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  Two home runs on the Yankee’s side. They’re looking good this year, records 48-13, leading the MLB in wins. 👍

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  @mdruryscsАй бұрын

  Looks like you had some great seats Doug! Gerrit Cole looked good first outing back from rehab. Nice to see you posting again! Hope you're doing well.

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  Thanks, doing great. Seats were great. Awesome experience.

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  @heidiwalter168Ай бұрын

  Beautiful work !! I wonder do you still have that ? I have the exact one but not as purdy!!

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  I sold it soon after filming that. I know it went for descent money. Those were well made machines. Thanks for the comment kind remarks.

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  @neilstern7108Ай бұрын

  I got one used 6 years ago, best mower I ever had. Sharp turning radius. Great on gas. And the decks are very strong.

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  @MatthewCraun-ub7rmАй бұрын

  How is a paint color with metallic in it a dead on match? The duplicolor DOES NOT match

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  Really? Because this Craftsman Push mower was painted with that Duplicolor and it looks as close to stock as you can get. If I didn’t just say it was repainted you wouldn’t know. Maybe your color blind. kzread.info/dash/bejne/f5t21Zavp5epZKw.htmlsi=bCYEkIigEwzsfvXg

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  @justinberry3991Ай бұрын

  How are you keeping the carburetor on the mower without the two nuts? Plus it would cause a gap between the carb and block

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  What? The nuts are holding it snug to the engine, plus it was a work in progress. Go to the final video on this series.

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  @BUKABOY3Ай бұрын

  Nice. short and to the point. thanks.

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  @MarioLopez-qo7tkАй бұрын

  Sir thank you for your help

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  No problem

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  @Bigbuck24Ай бұрын

  What are they worth?

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  $300. Mint, more, but that one was in pretty good shape.

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  @mattb9664Ай бұрын

  I think I figured it out. The small engine is the same in a product line, but when the transmission and deck size go up in models, the engine becomes more loaded and it will pull more power. So the equipment manufacturer is allowed to say that the engines have more power for the higher models trims with heavy duty transmissions and wider decks with longer blades or more spindles. Was just looking at the Cub Cadets with the Kohler 7000 series motor - the model with the bigger deck has 2 more horsepower but the engine is identical.

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  It definitely depends on the deck size and what the machine was made for. For the most part any machine with a 46” inch deck and up utilizes a V twin engine and they’re usually equipped with a fuel pump because they have larger capacity tanks under the seat and frame, that have to be pumped up to the carb. Usually 42” inch deck machines have single cylinder engines and the majority are gravity fed. It’s not always the case but it’s the general rule of thumb. However, 12-13.5hp were all 28 cubic inch. 14-17 were 31 cubic inch and than the 33 cubic inch single came out later. That applies to Briggs. All the 31’s and 33 share the same size block, only real difference is the size of the bore and piston. After that you have the V twins, theirs 2 of them a 656cc and a 724cc, you can go by cc or ci they can be both be converted. They also share the same block, just larger bore and pistons. Same applies with Kohlers and other brands, the Command for instance was anywhere from a 12.5 to a 17hp, but as they got larger their displacement grows. The 12.5 was 398cc or you can equate it to cubic inch. The 17 was roughly 469cc, they shared the same blocks and components, the only real difference is how large they made the bore and piston. That’s what’s giving it more power. On Briggs engines the size of the engine is built into its model. The first two digits of the model is the size of the engine in cubic inch, the code which is the third set of digits is the build date, so a Briggs that starts off with 31 in the model is a 31 cubic inch engine. But the horsepower rating varied so wide, it got cracked down on, so they changed the rating to ft Ibs torque, but I’ve seen that played with too. The only true rating is the actual displacement in cc or ci. If you go back to the old now classic tractors from the 60’s and 70’s the majority of them were rated at 10hp and had just as much balls as one rated at 16hp today, in some cases those old engines had more balls, so hp ratings got out of control at the end. But I use a 12hp 465cc 28ci Briggs flathead on my machine and compared to a 33 cubic inch they make now, the difference in power between them is very little. Once you jump up to a v twin which has two pistons, although only one detonates at a time the amount of power is significantly noticeable. They also run smoother because they have much better balance so you get a lot less vibration out of a v twin, so you don’t hear the tractor’s frame vibrating. But one last example, the old Briggs opposed twin flatheads. There were 2, there were always only 2. In the beginning one was rated at 12.5hp, the other 16. 12.5hp for an opposed twin vs a 12hp flathead single was a much more honest rating. Anyway by the end of production of those engines, they no longer rated the smaller one as 12.5. They started at 14hp, they had 14.5, 15, 15.5, 16, 16.5 all the way up to 21hp. The displacement never changed all they did was take the two same engines they built all along and jumped the 12.5 to anywhere from 14 to 16.5. The other one went from 17 to 21hp and nothing changed except, one they started over eating them and added all these extra in between hp ratings. When you purchased a machine and you bought one that was 16hp vs a 14hp you payed more, each half a horsepower it went up made the cost of the machine more new, retail. People finally caught wind of the bullshit and a class action lawsuit was filed and won against Briggs, Tecumseh and Kohler, it was multi million dollar settlement . After 2008 horsepower ratings as a general rule of thumb went away. They switched to a more accurate ft Ibs torque rating which had to also state its displacement along side. This way if they played games you could do your own homework and make sure one rating added up to the other. However the last of the Briggs Quantum engines which ceased around 2015 that I saw on Toro Recyler walk behind mowers started at 6.75 ft Ibs torque a year or two later they went to 7.0 ft Ibs torque. The last of the Toro Recyclers with Quantum’s at the end got up to 7.25 ft Ibs torque and they all had a displacement of 190cc. It never changed, they just started playing the same game with another measurement of power. The Quantum ran from 1986 to 2015, they were all always 190cc it never changed. When they still used hp they were all over the place. Anywhere from 4.5hp all the way to 7hp. They found its true rating in hp was 5. No more, no less. That’s at 3100 rpm. The big ones on tractors have there ratings derived at 3600 rpm. So the only true way to know an engines actual power output is to check its displacement at the rated rpm. They can’t lie about the size of the bore and piston, if they do that, they would pay dearly. They all already paid millions in knowingly lying during the horsepower class action. However they’re still playing games with other ratings. Oh and now in the residential realm for Briggs, the current biggest walk behind engine has a displacement of 163cc, yet they still have the monumental gaul to say it puts out 7.25 ft Ibs torque. That’s an outright lie. I know it for a fact because the 190cc Quantum had more power than that 163cc engine and they were overrating the 190cc at 7.25 ft Ibs when just a few years earlier the same exact engine was rated at 6.75. I don’t know if Toro was the ones playing the game or Briggs or both, but that’s how they went about claiming the models for the following year were upgraded, in reality it was the exact same mower with a different sticker and power rating slapped on the engine. So do not trust anything but the actual displacement rating and at what rpm. All the Tractor engines have their displacement derived at 3600 rpm the max they run at. Any other rating will almost definitely be marked up by either the manufacturer of the machine or the manufacturer of the engine or by both. They make you think theirs like 6 different engine power rating’s for 2 engines in the single the 31 cubic inch and 33, the v twin the 656cc and 724cc so two each and both share the same block one just has a larger bore and piston nothing more. If they keep playing games with other ratings they are going to end up being sued again. They used to say horsepower sells, well now they don’t use that rating or say that, but they still know more power sells, so they keep right on doing what they did before, I guess they don’t really care if they get sued again, maybe they can afford to shell out millions of dollars in lawsuits on all the extra money they make over rating these thing’s, unfortunately that’s what they do, lie and tell you this one has more power than this one and the reality is it’s usually the same. You definitely know if you choose a machine with a v twin vs a single cylinder your getting more power, but choose between one’s with both singles or both twins, one might say one thing and the other one another, but in reality your getting the same thing. Maybe a difference of 2 ci or 40cc and when it comes to those engines 40cc is almost un-noticeable, out-least in that case you know you got that extra 40cc and not some made up bs on one that is the same cc. It’s capitalism, how can they get the biggest buck for their bang. Just like we think how much bang can we get for our buck. But if you know what’s goin on you can save some of your bucks for the same bang or so close you wouldn’t notice if they didn’t tell you. If they do get sued again, not sure how they’re affording it. Tecumseh declared bankruptcy shortly after. Briggs declared bankruptcy during covid and is now owned by a financial firm that takes company’s in financial trouble turns them around and than sells them for a profit. I’m not sure how Kohler is doing properly not much better, only thing they got going for them is the company makes a lot more products than just engines, like toilet bowls for instance. However they can’t be doing that much better, all those companies are now in competition with Chinese made competitors cutting into their margins. One thing about all those Chinese engines I see, they don’t lie, they just put the cc rating on the front and that’s it, no bs. Yet go to harbor freight and the same 212cc engine has a tag on the shelf that’s says 6.5/7.0. That must be HF’s call cuz those actual physical engines say 212cc and that is it, no nonsense. Anyway it’s all a game on how the can get more of your green. Once you’re aware of it, you are ready to guard yourself from it. Also unfortunately Kohler engines quality has come way down in the last 15-20 years. They all have really, except vanguards. Those are made in the United States, are the commercial line and cost a ton, but also last a long time and withstand far more abuse than any residential line. Oh yea electrical power rating’s can be lower or higher between them, depending if you have an electric pro or not, etc. But those components, like stators are interchangeable, you can swap one out for another, so that’s no big thing.

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  @mattb9664Ай бұрын

  Very insightful! I was only recently questioning it because I have an old JD LA115 I needed to work on, and began wondering why all these engines have the same volume size, same exact or almost exact block, but they have different horsepower stickers depending on the size the mower deck and tranny from what I can tell. Probably going with the JD S170 rather than a cub cadet- mowing quality and the transmission is the priority, not whether it's some welded-together mowing deck. Maybe I'll read the SAE document that guides these vendors to self-report their horsepower ratings.

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  @@mattb9664 John Deere’s are definitely better than Cub Cadet’s or any MTD product, although I’ve seen them with their own sets of problems too. But when it comes to these engines they put on everything now, they all have their own sets of problems that arise no matter what machine it is. For Briggs singles, the compression release breaks on them frequently and the head gaskets tend to blow out. Head gaskets aren’t a big deal, but when those compression release’s break you gotta pull the whole motor and put it upside down and remove the sump to get in there and replace them, that can be a pain. The one thing I don’t like about John Deere’s is they make you pay for the manuals if you don’t have them. Just about every other manufacturer provides that stuff free online. John Deere likes to hit you for everything.

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  @crisprtalk6963Ай бұрын

  I have a 3011 and love it. Great machine built to last 100 years.

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  @filter4nowАй бұрын

  I finally got my HM-80-155404L rebuilt and put back together. It's running absolutely beautiful. After about an hour or so of running it's got a greyish-tint to the oil - is this normal? I'm using the zinc break-in oil - how long should I wait to change the oil during break-in? Also after testing it with regular gas - I decided to put premium in for the rest of the break-in. Nothing wrong with using premium? I want to make sure whatever happened before doesn't happen again (the bottom end failed catastrophic and it threw the rod). Doubtful as the timing light says it is correct (drew a mark on the flywheel) and the oil is cool to the touch

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  3 hours break in, than switch to regular oil. Hopefully whatever grey color you’re seeing, you won’t see anymore after you run it with regular oil, it may be that zinc additive, hopefully that’s what you’re seeing, probably is. After 3 hours run time if your not hearing a knock or any sounds your probably out of the woods. It may just be from break in, otherwise it may be just from break in, but normally you never wanna see grey colors, so it’s probably that zinc. If you see it anymore after you run it with regular oil, then you got a problem and you are going to have to open it back up and see what is happening/wearing. 87-93 is fine. 93 is good, takes longer for the octane to break down. When you’re done messing with it and don’t plan on using it again until winter, drain all the fuel out of the system dry and you’re ready for when you need it.

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  When you drain that break in stuff get as much out as you can, make sure it’s warm when you’re drain it. If you see it in the regular oil, but much less, it was most likely that zinc. It may take a second oil change to get it out completely. But if you still see it and it’s far less, then I’d say it was the break in oil and you should be fine. So be prepared that with regular oil, it may fool you if you still see some, because you may not get all of it out on the first change. As long as your not getting little particles of actual metal, or metal particulates of any kind you should be alright, if you just see discoloring than it’s most likely just the zinc additive that was in the break in oil and it will disappear most likely fully after a second change.

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  @filter4nowАй бұрын

  @@Mr_Tecumseh Thanks a lot! The machine shop recommended the zinc additive oil for break-in as new oil does not use zinc. Strange - he says he runs it all the time as "zinc is good" but I think he did a briggs and not a teumseh. I noticed it is running perfect on the original ignition coil - but I bought a spare OEM tecumseh replacement coil of the same part number 35135 and installed it which I can see a stronger spark and tighter RPM control so I'll use that It's a generator I plan to use year-round (or - whenever we lose power to our well). I am in Seattle area and it rarely gets below 32 degrees I imagine Tecumseh motors although they are good in the winter are just as good in the summer? Last time it was black after the first hour - due to the crankshaft and connecting rod journal overheating due to the sheared key firing the ignition WAY out of timing. I noticed backfiring on that rebuild and switched to a new FET aftermarket coil which "eliminated" it. Unfortunately, it merely fired delay while my engine was being destroyed :(

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  @filter4nowАй бұрын

  @@Mr_Tecumseh Thanks a lot! She's beautiful - so close to grid frequency. The tecumseh motor runs so close to 3600 and corrects immediately no load - to full load. I can see why Tecumseh is so attractive for snow blowers as well (being good winter motors). Now for final adjustments - runs pretty well with stock main jet 1 1/2 turn out and idle 1 turn out, but the more stable the frequency the better. Says adjust main jet first then idle jet (1/8 turn at a time)

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  @filter4now Yea, those horizontal HM Tecumseh engines are pretty solid, they put in real work moving snow, a lot of grunt. Generally speaking the Briggs horizontal flathead was superior, but not for winter use, they were hard to start in cold temps, Tecumseh’s start with ease. I had one on a snowblower that stretched and wore out one of the head bolts near the exhaust so it would not tighten, but it was used long hours over 1000 under heavy loads in extreme conditions going from really hot to as far down as zero or below outside temp. I had to drill and tap that hole in the block a size up and use a larger diameter bolt to tighten the head down all the way, it was loosing compression because of it. Yours probably won’t run into that issue, generators typically run at a constant speed and aren’t eating snow and your not getting into a situation where your constantly starting and stopping the engine in cold icy conditions with built up ice on the block, all that hot-cold extreme is what really did that, so you probably won’t ever run into that problem. But it’s a testament to how tough they are. But they’re both good engines, better than most of the crap out there now. He probably recommended a zinc added break in because it coats everything well and gets in between all the moving parts like the crank and journal adding a layer of protection as your running it for the first time before the oil reaches all the components, so it can’t hurt. Assembly lube between the crank and rod and bore and piston also would have worked. Only downside to those engines is they’re pretty loud, especially for generators. I have a generator with a Tecumseh HM80. It’s solid, but loud, some other brands are a little quieter, but in general gas generators are loud, just the nature of the beast. Attempting to modify the exhaust makes little difference, so I wouldn’t waste time attempting. Otherwise you should be set.

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  @andrewbratos6907Ай бұрын

  Now you got a hour & 10min. on it

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  @andrewbratos6907Ай бұрын

  great job and great video I'll give you $300.⁰⁰ for it,, oh yeah the bagger OK, 350.⁰⁰😂just kidding, what's the distance between front & back Axle

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  It was a demo video for it when I had it for sale. Got out least $1000 for it, it’s been a couple years on that one, so I don’t recall exactly, but a machine in that condition, that clean with a bag around here is fetching no less than $1000. Otherwise they can go spend near triple on some new pos they sell retail now.

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  @lospanchos68Ай бұрын

  I’m at 13 years with mine and it’s still going strong. I upped the rpm right out of the box and it is a runner.

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  Good to hear 👍. They’re good engines. I’m at a Trump rally on the beach in NJ.

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  @kolakoskifarm5323Ай бұрын

  I thought the 12hp was a flathead and the 14.5 is ohv which is why it has a little more power

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  @Mr_TecumsehАй бұрын

  12 to 13.5hp flatheads are 465cc, the old 11hp flathead discontinued in 1990 had 399cc and those had balls too. No generally speaking these flatheads run strong. The 13hp had a larger screen and shroud and a larger intake giving it a bump, but by displacement it’s the same as the 12. 14hp and up were overhead valves, 500cc. Being an overhead valve isn’t what gives it more power or determines it. The main thing that determines the power is size of the bore and piston, which it has 500cc a 35cc jump, so small it’s barely noticeable and makes little difference. The overhead valve engines are just a newer design and are supposed to run a little cleaner. The only reason Briggs started with them in the first place was government emission regulations, nothing else. If the government hadn’t threw their bureaucracy at them, the flatheads would have continued to get bigger themselves. They were forced to design an OHV which eventually replaced the flathead. The first Briggs OHV’s were based off flatheads, they used the same blocks and most components, all they did was take the valves away from the side of the piston and put them in front and added a slightly larger piston. The larger piston sucks in more fuel and air causing a larger explosion during combustion, that’s what gives it more power. If they made a flathead 500cc with a piston the size of the 14 it would have the same power rating. I’ve run them all and the 465cc up to the 540cc have very little noticeable difference in power. You don’t really notice a true difference in power until you move up to a twin cylinder starting at 656cc, they have noticeably more power and have better overall running balance. I run a 12hp flathead on my personal machine and I notice little to no difference with a 12 vs a 14. 35cc is a small difference. The 500cc vs the 540cc, the biggest single cylinder Briggs offers, also have very little noticeable difference, a 12hp, 465cc will adequately run a machine that had a 540cc. I know, I swapped a dead a 5 y/o 540cc out for a good 20 year old 465cc flathead. It had more than enough power to do exactly what the 540cc did. For a deck 38 to 46 the 12 will get the job done the same no problem. Getting into a 48” or 50” you need a twin cylinder an actual size-able jump in displacement and electrical capacity. Plus the flatheads came out of the era when they were designed well, made in the USA, like flatheads from the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s. Mines 27 now. Their bulletproof. They go 30+ years no problem with normal routine maintenance which isn’t much, oil and air filters changed on routine and a new plug every now and then and they keep going and going and going. Only way you kill one is if you run it low on oil or never change it, beyond that they work a long time. The early OHV’s were descent too, beyond the one added issue of head gaskets blowing out between the piston and space for the pushrod’s for the valves overhead. The space between is to narrow the gaskets blow out there frequently. Beyond that issue they’re as good as the flatheads with a little more maintenance . The newer ones made now, forget it. Their crap. They require a compression release mechanism on the cam which is now a cog vs a solid one piece cam. Those break all the time. Sometimes they cause other damage internally, when they break off and float around in there. The head gaskets blow all the time. I’ve seen them blown to pieces for no reason at all. These newer engines have oil filters and are pressure lubricated, that should be an improvement, but it’s not, the old splash lube on the flatheads did just fine, so fine they outrun the OHV especially the new ones 3:1. So you have added maintenance of an oil filter on top of the fact most of those engines are having colossal failures at 5 to 10 years tops where the flatheads which were built at the time even better than today’s Vanguards last 3 to 4x longer. Beyond buying something with a Vanguard now, don’t expect much from those newer Briggs OHV’s their garbage and yet still better than the Kohler Courage competitor, a real pile of crap. I would rather run a bulletproof engine with 35cc less and get 3-4 decades out of it vs a little more power for less than one decade. All those new modern Nikki carbs they use now, are also crap vs the Walbro it replaced. Thank the epa, your government for those changes. It’s not just tractor engines, those new engines on the walk behind mowers that replaced the Quantum that had a 30 year run are pita’s too. Plus the Quantum was 190cc flathead power, the largest residential new engine is 163cc OHV and it definitely has less power. They only offer 190cc OHV engines for walk behinds in the commercial realm now. Their power is exactly the same as the 190cc Quantum flathead, however like all these newer engines, they have a lot of problems too, big one being a plastic cam that strips and spins out throwing off time. But no, putting the valves above the piston is not what gives it more power, not on these small engines. In bigger engines with huge displacements like cars sure. The real component adding more power is a larger bore and piston that came with OHV’s, not the where the valves are. Oh and you have to re-adjust the valves on OHV’s every couple years, flatheads valves don’t normally need adjusting, out-least not for a good 20 years and those are pulled and the tips shaved to bring them back in spec. Another added maintenance item on the OHV. So generally speaking OHV’s require far more attention for a small amount of added combustion for a much shorter duration of working life. I’m sticking with flatheads until they are all gone. Side note, the old Briggs opposed twin cylinder is also fairly bulletproof, far more reliable than the newer v twin which also has known sets of issues. One more comparison, the Tecumseh Snow king 8 and 10hp share the same block. The 8hp is 318cc, the 10hp is 358cc. They have one difference , the 10 has a larger bore and piston. That’s it. Everything else is the same. I run them both. I notice no difference in power with that 40cc jump. Their 13hp OHV as they claimed was also 358cc. In that case, the 10hp 358cc flathead had more grunt than the 13hp OHV. It was bullshit anyway, they both had the same displacement. That 13 was no bigger or more powerful than its older 10hp flathead counterpart. All these small engine companies got sued for playing games with these hp ratings, that’s why hp is not the principle method of rating anymore. They rate them by displacement cc’s or cu and ft. Ib torque and I started seeing them playing the same game with the foot pound torque rating as they did with hp. So it’s all bullshit. Just go by it’s displacement, they can’t lie about that, they do that their in deep shit. Can’t go wrong with that. A 40cc difference in displacement especially on an engine sharing the same block is too small to notice a difference. Once you go up 80-100cc and the blocks larger and has a larger oil capacity, than it’s enough to actually notice. Before all these OHV’s. You had a 12hp flathead that covered all the OHV’s now in production and the next step up was the opposed twin starting at about 17-18 true hp. So 465cc to 656cc minimum, two cylinders. That’s an actual noticeable difference in power, all these in between engines are bullshit and part of a game, hp sells.

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  @user-fu3it4od3q2 ай бұрын

  An ALTERNATOR produced AC, not DC, hence the name alternator. If you add 1 diode in series with the output you turn AC into half wave rectified DC. If you use a full wave bridge rectifier you get full wave pulsating DC. This wave alternates between full voltage and zero volts for each AC wave. If you put the proper size capacitor across the full wave output you end up with filtered pure DC without the pulsated DC coming out of the full wave bridge. You also get a higher voltage from the filtered DC.

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  @Mr_Tecumseh2 ай бұрын

  Thanks for clarifying, electrical is not my strong suit. I do know that alternator was one of the higher end ones, second from the highest rated amperage one they offered for Tecumseh horizontal aluminum block’s and had AC and DC. The LED was connected to the DC side eliminating the need for a rectifier and getting rid of pulsating created by unregulated alternating current without use of a rectifier, the point of the video, for those who just want to tap into the DC side without dealing with adding a rectifier. I know it is listed by Tecumseh as an AC/DC alternator, it’s been a minute I don’t recall the ratings on each end, however it creates DC which was my concern, not how and more than enough. How it takes ac and converts it into DC on its own was a mystery to me, but it does, which is what I wanted and the final objective. I wasn’t too worried about it as long as it did, which it does and get’s the job done, because I have steady LED lighting, which was my goal. I still have the AC side untapped into if I ever wanted to add heated hand grips, etc. This video was created to show people how to use stock parts without any added parts to power an LED light with enough juice steadily without pulsating. Otherwise you have to tap into the single wire AC alternator, add a rectifier and all that jazz rather than plug and play with stock parts Tecumseh produced. It was easier for me to swap out the less powered single wire AC alternator 90% of Tecumseh’s had and put this one on, giving me the same end result as those who went thru the trouble of adding a rectifier with the other side ready to power more as I add things and need it. My reason’s for going that route. I have rectifier’s but found this option on snowblower forum and picked one up and went this route over the alternative. To me, better and easier.

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  @charliepearson16782 ай бұрын

  More crap to go wrong .

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  @Mr_Tecumseh2 ай бұрын

  It had a superior all brass pump, that could not crack by user error of leaving water in it below freezing, a better unloaded, overall better components internally. Beyond a $15 battery you need maybe every couple years, not really much more to go wrong and besides even if it had gone bad, you still got that rope. For an older or weak individual who can no longer yank on a cord it was handy. It was over 10 years old when filmed this, has to be closer to 15 now, wouldn’t doubt it’s still operating if it was maintained. I sold it without issue. I was pulling the cord to use it, while I held onto it and I pull a cord on the one I have now. But it was nice to have that feature. Since I got that machine for nothing along with 3 truck loads of other things including about 6 more pressure washers like it without e start, when the Sears near me shut down, it didn’t hurt me any. Either way it was Sears top of the line vertical mounted pressure washer and the Craftsman crap sold at Lowe’s today is a lot cheaper than these were and you won’t find one with grip and go now if ya tried. If you maintained it, winterized it and didn’t beat the shit out of it, they held up just fine. The ones without that trigger start have the same problem’s, mainly plastic cams in the engines that crap out or those lean jetted carbs that gum up easily. If your handy those two issues and anything else that goes wrong aren’t that hard to fix, which is the name of the game on this channel. Sold that machine for out least $300. It may have been $350, nothing spent, it’s been a minute, also the name of the game here. But those machines were close to $600 bucks in 2010-2013. Now with Bidenflation, forget it. Be near $900 easy. Believe you can and you’re halfway there.

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  @nickflopper2 ай бұрын

  Whats up doug, you gonna post anything any time soon?

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  @AcerArtsOfficial2 ай бұрын

  Does this motor have a oil filter. If so which one is it? Also does it have a in line fuel filter? Like a traditional style design or is it the really flat looking disc they sell? Thank you

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  @Mr_Tecumseh2 ай бұрын

  It did not have an oil filter, most of the older opposed twins didn’t. It was rare, so I’m not sure which oil filter it had. But I do know if you end up with one with an oil filter, you don’t have to buy a Briggs filter, just take the old one to any Autoparts store and have it matched by size and you’ll save yourself some money. As far as the fuel filters are concerned the disk style you mentioned is the better one to use and are what come stock on small engine power equipment, they’re better, they use a small metal screen. Those other kind with that paper filter you see often break down and clog, especially the cheap knock off ones. Do yourself a favor pickup one of the disk style, a name brand one. A few more bucks, but last much longer and you’ll save in the long run. If you add a fuel shutoff get a fastco. Their oem and don’t usually start leaking overtime like the knock offs. I think fastco makes the disk filters by them too, if not Briggs sells them. A couple extra bucks now on those key components will save you trouble and money in the long run. These opposed twin models are fuel pump driven not gravity fed normally, so fuel stops flowing to them when you shut it off, so a fuel shutoff isn’t a necessity. But it’s still nice to have to shutoff fuel to run carb dry at end of season. Do those thing’s and you won’t have to worry about them later. I’ve pulled disk filters off that had to be 10-15 years old and still were working, technically if you put it back on the right way you can even keep using them because whatever junk they caught stays on the one side of the screen although it’s not advisable, it’s easy enough to change. But if you were in a pinch and didn’t have another one on hand, it can still be used till you get a new one. Just don’t put it back on backwards or all that junk it stopped is going straight to the carburetor. I’ve seen paper ones a year old breaking down and clogged up and that paper can get into the line clogging that and make it as far as the carburetor getting the junk in there clogging that up too. Those disk filters with the screen don’t do that. They’re also better at catching most crap that gets introduced from the fuel tank, which is normally how junk ends up in the fuel system, while refueling with the gas can.

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  @AcerArtsOfficial2 ай бұрын

  @@Mr_Tecumseh thank you for this info! Lastly.. the oil drain plug, is it attatched to the 90degree elbow on the left hand side of the mower if you were on it and had your hands on the wheel? Or is it on the right side of the mower at the bottom and it looks like a 3/8 connection? I dont wanna take the wrong one off. Is there a torque spec on it? It looks like its pipe threads too so i imagine i need to put teflon tape so it doesnt leak? Sorry if these questions are annoying, im trying to help my fiances grandpa out and work on this mower a little so i dont have to see him drop 2500$ on a new craftsman thats just full of plastic parts when this thing runs great just wanna do preventative maintenance

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  @Mr_Tecumseh2 ай бұрын

  @@AcerArtsOfficial Good call on not buying a new one, their junk now. From what I recall there are drains on both sides on those engines, one side just has a little cap bolt, the other side will have the pipe. It’s probably on the right but whichever side it is you can’t miss it. Normally it’s a 3/8 yes. Some thread lock, teflon is a good idea yes. Don’t over tighten that plug on that pipe. I had one stuck and the whole pipe had to unscrew and made a mess.

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  @AcerArtsOfficial2 ай бұрын

  @@Mr_Tecumseh awesome so should i pull both drain plugs for an oil change or will just one do?

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  @Mr_Tecumseh2 ай бұрын

  @@AcerArtsOfficial Just the one. The other one is an auxiliary. Warm up the engine first so you get as much of the old out as possible.

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  @2packs4sure2 ай бұрын

  I had the wind up version of that 45 years ago and I loved that thing,, when I was done with the yard I'd wind it up and next week just press the throttle lever to the start position to release the wind up starter and it would start right up !!

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  @user-be1gb9kw4r2 ай бұрын

  There are brakes on the top of deck on blade spindles

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  @Mr_Tecumseh2 ай бұрын

  I’m aware. Before 1991 they didn’t. When the brake shoe’s wear off them I remove those parts. They’re overkill. The belt they had on it was short and eating into the plastic pulley guard. It’s been a minute but I forget if these wheel horses had blade brakes. I know for sure tractor’s 90 and back don’t. We didn’t need brake’s on decks for 50 years before they finally decided we did. Without brakes in grass the blades stop within 3 seconds. On pavement 6-7 seconds. They’re un-necessary. Anyway short belt was cause here, brakes or not, blades should not turn when the deck is disengaged. You put a belt on too short it’s going to force itself to turn, they aren’t strong brakes, they just assist the slowdown when you disengage it. A belt too tight is going to fight to keep turning no matter what. One of the reason’s I pull those parts when they’re shot, their overkill.

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  @hessuhopolainen2 ай бұрын

  Best snowblower ever made. 😀 Pretty strong statement. Not looking for argue, just saying. Know quite a few honda, yamaha, ariens etc owners who might feel the same way with there brand.

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  @Mr_Tecumseh2 ай бұрын

  I didn’t throw so great in my opinion. It’s built well though. My customized 1971 Ariens Sno-Thro that I reposed, launches it and will take on snow up to my hips.

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  @Mr_Tecumseh2 ай бұрын

  Here it is. It’s a ‘71 Ariens 10,000 32 wide. It’s a beast. Nothing else I ever used came close. I do also have an ‘87 924,000 series 24” that’s a beast and a 2001 Snapper 10/26. The snapper is real good too. They don’t make them anymore. The snapper was the most similar to the Toro. Anywhere there all on my channel to see. kzread.info/dash/bejne/l6eIrtGkgNPSqs4.htmlsi=vpDKSBX65i8TeZG2

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  @josephgiello26902 ай бұрын

  YOU HAVE A TERRRIBLE VIDEO CAMERA !!! LOL!!!

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  @Mr_Tecumseh2 ай бұрын

  Thank’s. Their called phones.

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  @josephosier68783 ай бұрын

  I appreciate this video. Came across one of these and was kinda like what the hell. Thanks bro.

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  @jeff-kv3jq3 ай бұрын

  Did they make 5 hp Tecumseh with lights

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  @Mr_Tecumseh3 ай бұрын

  Yea, they’re pretty rare. I have one 5hp Tecumseh with a lighting coil, it came off a Poulen Pro. The majority did not. The older ones from back in the day also had them incorporated with the magneto behind the flywheel for mini bikes and such for lighting. On snowblowers those engines were already generally underpowered and were used mainly on base model and lower end machines. Most machines like that didn’t have light’s. Much more common on the 8hp machines and even many of those were sold with the light as an add on accessory. Coil for light was already in engine, but you had to buy the light. Those old Halogen headlights were pretty dim anyway. Best bet get an LED and add the rectifier and capacitors or do what I did on my machine. Installed a much stronger full size 3/5 amp AC/DC coil with an LED light. Now I can actually see out there. Those old halogen lights are more for safety from cars so they see you than you actually being able to see well.

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  @demetriosa76463 ай бұрын

  Too high. She’s way old. 3200-3300 give her a break! I would even go 3100 based on the condition

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  @Mr_Tecumseh3 ай бұрын

  You’re not gonna be throwing much snow anywhere at 3100. Old how, just cuz it has a little service rust? It’s a snowblower, they get a small portion of use compared to machines like mowers. Inside of that engine may still be shining like new, how would ya know unless you checked in it yourself? Nah 3600. That’s where these engines run when under a load throwing snow, if you want it to get work done. Had plenty older work at that speed with far more use. She’s still a baby.

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  @dougsorensen75943 ай бұрын

  Thanks!

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  @Mr_Tecumseh3 ай бұрын

  No problem, anytime. Thank you!

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  @dougsorensen75943 ай бұрын

  Hoping you could help answer a question since you are the Tecumseh Man. I've had this exact same mower for 20years. Best mower ever! Recently when mowing a side hill and going horizontally it wants to stall out and then is hard to start. I've gone through the carb thoroughly and everything is set right, but the problem still exits. Mowing a side hill vertically it does not stall out. Only when going horizontally on the exact same side hill? Thank you for your consideration of my question.

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  @Mr_Tecumseh3 ай бұрын

  Definitely a fuel delivery issue. Start with the basics, new fuel line, clean tank out, make sure there is no garbage in the tank or the screen in the tank is obstructed, besides a clean air filter lastly and most importantly is the tab on the float the needle sits on. You can bend it which adjusts how much fuel is allowed into the carb before needle seats fully closing and cutting off fuel. It’s what meters the fuel. Usually you want your float to be flush when the needle shuts cutting off fuel. Bending the tab down will make the entire float sit down at an angle a bit which will allow more fuel into the carb before it closes. If you bend it the other way it will let less fuel in before shutting. So bend it down so that the float closes the needle a little later with more fuel in the carburetor. That should fix the issue, you will have more fuel inside the carburetor so when you’re on an incline it doesn’t run out which is why the engine is stalling, it’s being starved of fuel. More fuel in the bowl will fix the problem. You can also rebuild it, a rebuild kit includes those parts which is where the problem resides. You can also pick up an aftermarket carburetor cheap and that will also fix the problem, but they are not of the same quality as an OEM carburetor, so the engine will often not run as smooth with one, so I would go OEM if you can. But really all you need to do is bend that tab on the float to fix your problem. Make sure you don’t bend it too much or the needle won’t close at all and fuel flow won’t stop. You’ll know if you did because it will flood. Use a small pair of needle nose pliers they work great at grabbing that tab to bend it. If you’re good you can just drop the bowl with the carb still on the engine to make that fix. Those small pliers come in handy when going to remove the float hinge pin as well, especially with the carb still on the engine. Let me know how it works out for ya. Good luck. Hopefully you will get many more good years of service out of your mower.

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  @dougsorensen75943 ай бұрын

  I thank you for sharing your superior knowledge and taking the time to send me such an informative well thought out diagnosis. I did not think to change the fuel line. I went through the carb with a kit including a thorough cleaning. I set the float needle and new seat to factory. I will soon try your suggestion with the float bowl off after changing the fuel line. For years I've only used non ethanol fuel with Sta-bil and every time the carb interior and tank is clean as a whistle. The fudging of the float to let in more fuel makes sense! It will be a great fix if that is the source. I will follow with a note to you on the result. It may be a few weeks until I can try it. I just had hand surgery and I need to heal before lifting a mower etc. You are a good man and thanks again. With appreciation for your efforts Doug. @@Mr_Tecumseh

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  @mudzy98203 ай бұрын

  I just found one for free, will download a manual but could u please tell me how go engage the blades. Is it the lever next to the park brake? If so what do the 3 settings mean, cheers

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  @Mr_Tecumseh3 ай бұрын

  Blade engage is on the dash tower. Pull it up and it slides over a hump to lock in place. Disengage the opposite.

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  @mudzy98203 ай бұрын

  @@Mr_Tecumseh easy as, thought as much when i seen that hump las night ahah put 2n2 togther lol

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  @Mr_Tecumseh3 ай бұрын

  @@mudzy9820 Descent machine’s, enjoy!

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  @ericd27913 ай бұрын

  there no differences vs the old muffler. i have the same type of Tecumseh with that type of muffler & it gets in the way more & just i don't hear a differences. i went with the old muffler, to put a battery tray in for the battery.

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  @Mr_Tecumseh3 ай бұрын

  It makes no difference. It’s not worth the $100 it almost cost me. But luckily since Sears screwed up on the return I got to keep it and my money. So it’s staying on unless I ever need it for something else. It’s more unique for a generator and it has the anti fire brush guard for camping in the woods. I got the Gen free too, from the closest sears, they were getting rid of everything, closing down. so it was a 100% win and I haven’t run it since this video, almost 7 years already, no power outages. Maybe I’ll invest in a Tri fuel adapter for it since no money went into it, give it the option to run on gasoline, propane and natural gas in case of real emergency.

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  @user-xh9gc1ic5f3 ай бұрын

  This seems common on these engines. The same thing happened to the GCV160 on my pressure washer.

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  @Mr_Tecumseh3 ай бұрын

  First obe I had that did that on a Honda. The valve seat behind the head came loose stopping full travel of the pushrod which in turn bent it and the lifter at the front. I’ve seen it happen often on the newer Briggs V twin engines. You can fix it, but you gotta remove the entire head and you can usually put the guide back in place and than hammer and dolly it so it doesn’t come loose again. You do that by taking a hammer and punch and tapping divot holes all around the aluminum where it sits which compresses the metal surrounding it so it can’t pop out again. Otherwise you can replace it if it got really chewed up, but still a good idea to hammer and dolly the new one too, so that one never pops out either.

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  @kieluyttenhove84883 ай бұрын

  I just dropped mine off to be fixed, hopefully not too expensive. I will be curious if that's what caused the rocker arm to break. @@Mr_Tecumseh