trés bien filmé merci

It was broken in my car too, it should have been exactly the same as you did. I pasted it and left it passive so that the fan wouldn't fall into it.

какой молодец

Wow, that's some elaborate solution. Good engineering I must say, should've come like this from the factory. Do you maybe know, was it really meant to be powered all the time? Like, motor moves the flap, stalls and stays under power indefinitely? I am perplexed by this system, I figured that the electric motor itself somehow disconnects power when stalled, but I couldn't find out how, dismantled it and it seems there's nothing in there. Or maybe logic control senses higher current in stall condition and cuts off power. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

@agentarz

Жыл бұрын

You are on the right track. The module that controls the motor monitors the current, and when a certain limit is reached, it stops the motor. But this limit is too high and the axle always rolls over and breaks. The idea of ​​the scheme used is to turn off the motor's power when reaching the end position. The supplied voltage from the module is switched off after about 8-10 seconds. The scheme still works flawlessly to this day on two of my personal cars.

@zdrz7727

Жыл бұрын

@@agentarz thank you very much for the clarification, will try to make it work! Enjoy

@kothecompetitor

Жыл бұрын

@@agentarz; Basically, you made that high current occurs once it is in the proper position by completing a short circuit with the switches when they are on, right?

@agentarz

Жыл бұрын

@@kothecompetitor No! With the switches and diodes, the circuit is interrupted for the corresponding direction of rotation of the motor. The impulse from the module continues, but is interrupted by the switch and does not reach the motor.

@kothecompetitor

Жыл бұрын

@@agentarz Yes after I take a close look I saw that there is a diodes I understand now. . do you think that my solution works though? my solution is making ( switch 1 || switch 2 || motor ) and when one of them is clicked the circuit will be shorted and the current limit will be exceeded and the motor will stop; am I right? . but to be honest your solution is more practical😅 . thanks for your response

Здравейте, от кой град сте. Имам същият проблем . Непрестанно въртене на мотора, спира едва след 3-4 пълни оборота. Вече е успял палеца на машинката да счупи чоповете, които би трябвало да спрат мотора. Дано сте от Варна, за да ми помогнете с Астричката

I tried that one today. Motor just stopped and refused to work the other way. When I tried to circle it back, one of the microswitches died. But I think that now I spot a difference. 3:17 The top microswitch seems to have 3 connections. Did you bridge the NC and NO poles on the top one with some diode or resistor? I try to figure out why it does not work for me.

@pandemis

11 ай бұрын

Ohhh Now I understand. You also included a drawing in the video that I missed first time. So you put a diode on each switch. Nice. I will try this also!

А бихте ли казали какъв тип са диодите, на какъв ток трябва да издържат. благодаря!

@agentarz

11 ай бұрын

В случея са използвани M7, SMD вариант диоди, бо могат да се използват всякакви стига да са поне 1А.

How did you remove the fan?

@agentarz

Жыл бұрын

The first time, very difficult. I don't remember the details anymore, it was a long time ago. The glove box comes off. A 5.5 spanner is needed, it is used to disassemble the lower part of the fan from the upper part with the flap. I couldn't get them out together, unassembled. At the front, from the engine compartment, remove the wipers and the plastics below them. There is a bolt that is inside the air duct that is harder to see. That's basically it in a nutshell. Be patient and take your time during disassembly. There should be other clips on youtube.

@Dragonbahn

Жыл бұрын

First remove the glovebox, four torx screws and a yank (be careful with the glovebox light wires). Remove the plastic panel under the motor, two plastic retaining screws on the underside. Remove the plastic vent pipe, a plastic screw and a good yank. There are five small screws on the underside of the motor along with a clip on the edge between the housing and fan. Wiggle it a bit and it'll come loose. This information is also avaliable in the Haynes manual chapter 3:9 if you happen to have that. The really finnicky bit is refitting the fan. I've had some luck with half fastening one screw and then wiggling and smacking the fan to get the others lined up. Hope this helps.

What button makes that motor work on dash thanks

@agentarz

Ай бұрын

The button for recirculation valve air in middle dash. search.app.goo.gl/g1mSSj4

@garyeggleton8669

Ай бұрын

@@agentarz mine doesn’t light up when pressed and that flap does not work it’s stays shut blowers work but only blow hot and direction of air doesn’t work any ideas thank you

@agentarz

Ай бұрын

@@garyeggleton8669 How do you know it's closed? Usually, when the indicator is off, the valve is open. The reasons for you may be many, the LED is burnt out, the button does not work, the motor is burnt out, one of the sockets does not make a good connection, one of the cables is broken...

Здрасти , какви ключета са използвани за схемата ?

@agentarz

11 ай бұрын

Здрасти, ключетата се виждат на снимките след схемата. Могат да се използват всякакви, които Ви е удобно да монтирате.В случея са микропревключватели, тип SNAP ACTION, с лост, 3А/125V, ON-(ON), като могат да се използват и за много по малък ток. Диодите в схемата са M7, SMD вариант, но отново могат да се използват всякакви поне 1А.

@user-ib7yq6uh7r

11 ай бұрын

Много благодаря за отговора !

Закрыл заслонку и отключил привод,вот и все проблема решена

@agentarz

Ай бұрын

По скоро така проблема е заобиколен и вече нямате проветрение на купето, но всеки сам си преценя.