Пікірлер

• 
  @user-mh9jg3bf6f20 сағат бұрын

  Как называется этот блок

• 
  @agentarz19 сағат бұрын

  @@user-mh9jg3bf6f Кой блок? Това е клапата и моторчето за рециркулация на въздуха в купето и отвън.

• 
  @user-mh9jg3bf6f18 сағат бұрын

  @@agentarz блок с заслонками?

• 
  @agentarz15 сағат бұрын

  @@user-mh9jg3bf6f Моторчето и клапата са зад жабката, а управлението на моторчето е на централната конзола, копчето със стрелка, за промяна на въздушния поток.

• 
  @Pioneer921128 күн бұрын

  Здравей, плейъра продава ли се?

• 
  @moedemamaАй бұрын

  So this is basically plug and play? Im researching how to build a simple midi controler with fatar keys and im having trouble understanding how the whole process looks like. One thing thats not clear to me is how does one calibrate the keys? I have seen in a video from fatar how they measure each key and imbed those measurements into a qr code that the end manufacturer then uses to calibrate the keys in the firmware for a leveled response between keys. How would i go about doing such a calibration, i figure its a necessary step. For the encoder you are using the product description mentions auto calibration of analog inputs, is that for modwheels etc, or also for the keys?

• 
  @agentarzАй бұрын

  Hello, if you can please send your question to [email protected] so we can communicate. At youtube, we are not comfortable keeping a chronology and history.

• 
  @eduardogil773Ай бұрын

  Hola, mi motor Z16XER. llevo 5 años con el problema. En el taller no genera codigo de error. He cambiado termostato entero nuevo. He cambiado caja de mariposa de admisión nueva. Y seguia el problema. En mi caso el problema es solamente en verano. Por la mañana cuando todavía hace tiempo frío arranca perfecto pero por la tarde a partir de 26 27°C le cuesta mucho arrancar. Origen del problema al arrancar otro coche con las pinzas de la batería. Me cambiaron el cable de la batería a la caja de fusibles por uno mas gordo y se solucionó el problema durante 1 año. Volví a arrancar otro coche con pinzas de batería y volvió el problema. Problema solo en verano. Vivo en España. En invierno siempre perfecto. Estoy desesperado son muchos veranos con el problema. No genera codigos de error. Gracias por la ayuda que ofreceis todos vosotros.

• 
  @agentarzАй бұрын

  Вашият двигател има VVT система. Тя доста често създава проблеми. Друга възможна причина е EGR. Ако имате възможност премахнете го софтуерно. Аз не съм специалист, а хоби любител и само мога да предполагам за проблема. При мен проблема беше доста сходен и мисля, че се реши след смяна на EGR. След известно време си препрограмирах UCU и го премахнах софтуерно. От няколко години вече нямам никакви оплаквания.

• 
  @asdipАй бұрын

  Закрыл заслонку и отключил привод,вот и все проблема решена

• 
  @agentarzАй бұрын

  По скоро така проблема е заобиколен и вече нямате проветрение на купето, но всеки сам си преценя.

• 
  @oldschoolcarsyeah7918Ай бұрын

  Hello, the injectors you replaced were new or used ? Thank you

• 
  @agentarzАй бұрын

  Used

• 
  @garyeggleton8669Ай бұрын

  What button makes that motor work on dash thanks

• 
  @agentarzАй бұрын

  The button for recirculation valve air in middle dash. search.app.goo.gl/g1mSSj4

• 
  @garyeggleton8669Ай бұрын

  @@agentarz mine doesn’t light up when pressed and that flap does not work it’s stays shut blowers work but only blow hot and direction of air doesn’t work any ideas thank you

• 
  @agentarzАй бұрын

  @@garyeggleton8669 How do you know it's closed? Usually, when the indicator is off, the valve is open. The reasons for you may be many, the LED is burnt out, the button does not work, the motor is burnt out, one of the sockets does not make a good connection, one of the cables is broken...

• 
  @oldschoolcarsyeah7918Ай бұрын

  Hello, when you changed the injectors, did you put them used or new? And another question, did you change the 4 injectors? It seems that your old injectors were leaking, which is why when the vehicle was off for a while it had a bad start.

• 
  @agentarzАй бұрын

  Hi, I replaced it with a used one. Subsequently, I made myself a tester for injectors and tested them all. They were all the same, sprayed the same, none leaked. I think all my problems were from the EGR. After I bought a new one OEM, the car was fine. After a few months I found a way to turn it off in software as well. I've been driving with the connector off for a few years now and haven't had any problems or errors.

• 
  @user-om2ni4dr9m4 ай бұрын

  😱

• 
  @user-zh4my5dt3z6 ай бұрын

  какой молодец

• 
  @SKolka688 ай бұрын

  До 113t* доходит.

• 
  @agentarz8 ай бұрын

  Это нормально для этого двигателя. При 113 градусах включается 1 ступень вентилятора.

• 
  @SKolka688 ай бұрын

  @@agentarz ошибаетесь. Вентилятор включается при 108С

• 
  @agentarz8 ай бұрын

  @@SKolka68 О нет, я не ошибаюсь. Я спросил у Опеля. 1 скорость 113 градусов, 2 скорость 117 градусов. Я это тоже читал в русских книгах, книгах по ремонту Astra.

• 
  @SKolka688 ай бұрын

  @@agentarz почему на моей при 108 вкл?

• 
  @agentarz8 ай бұрын

  @@SKolka68 Почувствуйте себя привилегированным. :)

• 
  @DanielGrabarek8 ай бұрын

  Any idea where to buy this sensor? Seems like this exact model is not for sale anymore :(

• 
  @agentarz8 ай бұрын

  It doesn't have to be exactly the same. It's just a resistance thermometer. It can also be replaced with a similar one. Look on ebay, there are options.

• 
  @DenizEdit078 ай бұрын

  Did you solve this problem

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  @agentarz8 ай бұрын

  I removed the EGR from the ECU firmware. The cable for it is disconnected. It is now completely off and no DTC errors.

• 
  @James_Bowie9 ай бұрын

  Hi Svetoslav, great video thank you. I have a question about a part from a Fatar TP6 in an Ahlborn-Galanti organ and I'm hoping you might be able to help me with it. I would need to send you a photo of the part. How may I contact you?

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  @agentarz9 ай бұрын

  Hi, I'm glad I was helpful. Write to [email protected] from midiboutique.com, tell them what you needed. They will help you. Fatar generally do not sell separate parts.

• 
  @James_Bowie9 ай бұрын

  @@agentarz Thanks. I emailed them and they quickly replied: "Unfortunately we don't have such part. We offer only some spare keys." I would like to show you the part that I'm referring to so that you might help me describe it correctly, please.

• 
  @agentarz9 ай бұрын

  @@James_Bowie I requested that your email be forwarded to me by "sales". I saw what you need. We do not have such a part, and it does not appear to be ordering from Fatar soon. It is only bought from them in large quantities. But I can suggest you make a substitute. For example, from nitrile rubber cord or similar soft rubber material. It can also be made of Silicone rubber cord. It will be much cheaper than from Fatar. Maybe even with a softer feel.

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  @James_Bowie9 ай бұрын

  @@agentarz Thanks again. I have been told that the part is called a keyguide bushing. We would need 183 (say 200) of them. I was not even sure if Fatar still supplies that part for the TP6. Making a substitute from nitrile or silicone rubber cord is a good suggestion.

• 
  @James_Bowie2 ай бұрын

  Update: I sourced the required quantity of these keyguide bushings from Viscount UK.

• 
  @noureddineallani14969 ай бұрын

  trés bien filmé merci

• 
  @shoddywinner610 ай бұрын

  Random video that satisfies, yes I will watch

• 
  @oldschoolcarsyeah791811 ай бұрын

  Buenos dias, he visto en tu video el problema de EGR INCORRECT FEEDBACK se que tenias unas oscilaciones o temblores en el arranque en tu opel astra .Yo tambien he leido con Op-Com exactamente el problema de EGR INCORRECT FEEDBACK.Como lo solucionaste? Anulaste la EGR?

• 
  @agentarz11 ай бұрын

  I removed the EGR from the ECU firmware. It is now completely off and no DTC errors.

• 
  @oldschoolcarsyeah791811 ай бұрын

  @@agentarz now you no longer have vibration when starting the car after canceling the egr? I had read that you had an irregularity or vibration when starting the engine and the only thing I had seen was the EGR feedback incorrect.

• 
  @agentarz11 ай бұрын

  @@oldschoolcarsyeah7918 Again there is a RPM change but less noticeable. Most often the RPM change is from the valve in the valve cover (crankcase gases). Another possible reason is that it is sucking in air somewhere after the throttle and is not being read by the MAP sensor.

• 
  @pandemis11 ай бұрын

  I tried that one today. Motor just stopped and refused to work the other way. When I tried to circle it back, one of the microswitches died. But I think that now I spot a difference. 3:17 The top microswitch seems to have 3 connections. Did you bridge the NC and NO poles on the top one with some diode or resistor? I try to figure out why it does not work for me.

• 
  @pandemis11 ай бұрын

  Ohhh Now I understand. You also included a drawing in the video that I missed first time. So you put a diode on each switch. Nice. I will try this also!

• 
  @user-ib7yq6uh7r11 ай бұрын

  Здрасти , какви ключета са използвани за схемата ?

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  @agentarz11 ай бұрын

  Здрасти, ключетата се виждат на снимките след схемата. Могат да се използват всякакви, които Ви е удобно да монтирате.В случея са микропревключватели, тип SNAP ACTION, с лост, 3А/125V, ON-(ON), като могат да се използват и за много по малък ток. Диодите в схемата са M7, SMD вариант, но отново могат да се използват всякакви поне 1А.

• 
  @user-ib7yq6uh7r11 ай бұрын

  Много благодаря за отговора !

• 
  @volen123 Жыл бұрын

  А бихте ли казали какъв тип са диодите, на какъв ток трябва да издържат. благодаря!

• 
  @agentarz11 ай бұрын

  В случея са използвани M7, SMD вариант диоди, бо могат да се използват всякакви стига да са поне 1А.

• 
  @volen123 Жыл бұрын

  Здравейте, от кой град сте. Имам същият проблем . Непрестанно въртене на мотора, спира едва след 3-4 пълни оборота. Вече е успял палеца на машинката да счупи чоповете, които би трябвало да спрат мотора. Дано сте от Варна, за да ми помогнете с Астричката

• 
  @markonovovic Жыл бұрын

  How did you remove the fan?

• 
  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  The first time, very difficult. I don't remember the details anymore, it was a long time ago. The glove box comes off. A 5.5 spanner is needed, it is used to disassemble the lower part of the fan from the upper part with the flap. I couldn't get them out together, unassembled. At the front, from the engine compartment, remove the wipers and the plastics below them. There is a bolt that is inside the air duct that is harder to see. That's basically it in a nutshell. Be patient and take your time during disassembly. There should be other clips on youtube.

• 
  @Dragonbahn Жыл бұрын

  First remove the glovebox, four torx screws and a yank (be careful with the glovebox light wires). Remove the plastic panel under the motor, two plastic retaining screws on the underside. Remove the plastic vent pipe, a plastic screw and a good yank. There are five small screws on the underside of the motor along with a clip on the edge between the housing and fan. Wiggle it a bit and it'll come loose. This information is also avaliable in the Haynes manual chapter 3:9 if you happen to have that. The really finnicky bit is refitting the fan. I've had some luck with half fastening one screw and then wiggling and smacking the fan to get the others lined up. Hope this helps.

• 
  @carmelotavarnesi4547 Жыл бұрын

  Hello, Tanks you for this video. Do you where I can buy a single key note for fatar Tp6-Tp60. Unfortunatly fatar don't sell this. Best regards

• 
  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  Hi, I'm glad I was helpful. Write to midiboutique.com, tell them which key you need. They will help you.

• 
  @oldschoolcarsyeah7918 Жыл бұрын

  La temperatura es completamente normal en los motores Opel Z16XEP llega hasta 110 grados. Muy buena pantalla para ver la temperatura motor y la carga de alternador. ¿Por qué se ven pequeñas oscilaciones en las revoluciones del motor sabes el motivo?

• 
  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  В моя случей съм с друг термостат и нормалната температура е 92градуса. Както и да е. Трептенията на оборотите са хроничен проблем на Z16XEP. Донякъде е възможно да бъдат заради свещи, бобина, EGR, мембраната в капака на клапаните.

• 
  @gezavamos8753 Жыл бұрын

  Shit

• 
  @sudemkiper8537 Жыл бұрын

  It was broken in my car too, it should have been exactly the same as you did. I pasted it and left it passive so that the fan wouldn't fall into it.

• 
  @zdrz7727 Жыл бұрын

  Wow, that's some elaborate solution. Good engineering I must say, should've come like this from the factory. Do you maybe know, was it really meant to be powered all the time? Like, motor moves the flap, stalls and stays under power indefinitely? I am perplexed by this system, I figured that the electric motor itself somehow disconnects power when stalled, but I couldn't find out how, dismantled it and it seems there's nothing in there. Or maybe logic control senses higher current in stall condition and cuts off power. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

• 
  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  You are on the right track. The module that controls the motor monitors the current, and when a certain limit is reached, it stops the motor. But this limit is too high and the axle always rolls over and breaks. The idea of ​​the scheme used is to turn off the motor's power when reaching the end position. The supplied voltage from the module is switched off after about 8-10 seconds. The scheme still works flawlessly to this day on two of my personal cars.

• 
  @zdrz7727 Жыл бұрын

  @@agentarz thank you very much for the clarification, will try to make it work! Enjoy

• 
  @kothecompetitor Жыл бұрын

  @@agentarz; Basically, you made that high current occurs once it is in the proper position by completing a short circuit with the switches when they are on, right?

• 
  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  @@kothecompetitor No! With the switches and diodes, the circuit is interrupted for the corresponding direction of rotation of the motor. The impulse from the module continues, but is interrupted by the switch and does not reach the motor.

• 
  @kothecompetitor Жыл бұрын

  @@agentarz Yes after I take a close look I saw that there is a diodes I understand now. . do you think that my solution works though? my solution is making ( switch 1 || switch 2 || motor ) and when one of them is clicked the circuit will be shorted and the current limit will be exceeded and the motor will stop; am I right? . but to be honest your solution is more practical😅 . thanks for your response

• 
  @bashz.k222 Жыл бұрын

  Thank you very much Where is the MAP sensor located in opel astra gtc 2005 , I tried hard to find it ? Regards

• 
  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  If it is with a z16xep engine it is located under the ECU. For other engines, ask Google.

• 
  @bashz.k222 Жыл бұрын

  @@agentarz thanks 👍🏼

• 
  @user-pt3us8do4r Жыл бұрын

  Есть видео как делали? Круто

• 
  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  Нямам видео, но съм описал всичко в описанието под клипа, както и как се е оправило при мен.

• 
  @user-pt3us8do4r Жыл бұрын

  Есть видео Как всё делали?

• 
  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  Не, нямам видео как се прави.

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  @user-pt3us8do4r Жыл бұрын

  Поскажите как сделать

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  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  Монтиран е LCD дисплей в таблото, който е управляван от интерфейс, направен и програмиран с желаните функции. Не се произвеждат вече.

• 
  @sevguzenhasan6517 Жыл бұрын

  Здравейте, този модул наличен ли е?

• 
  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  Не ги правя аз, но за съжаление вече няма и от къде да се купи.

• 
  @dancostaleitao Жыл бұрын

  Essa válvula foi desligada eletronicamente, por isso está assim

• 
  @Nik.AutoWorld Жыл бұрын

  Svetoslav Atanasov, Здравей ще може ли да ми помогнеш с този проблем , не съм сигурен дали ще се справя с схемата или по точно с изходните кабели от двата ключа където си ги съединил къде отиват в моторчето ли си ги запоил или другаде ? Нямам си на идея , ако имаш възможност ще може ли да ми помогнеш ще ти бъда много благодарен!! Колата е Астра Н

• 
  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  Здрасти, в другия клип става магията, там си видял схемата. Написал съм къде се свързва в описанието. Добавих и по подробно описание на български. Надявам се да е достатъчно изчерпателно. Линк към другия клип: kzread.info/dash/bejne/gGR3u6RyocXYm8o.html

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  @Nik.AutoWorld Жыл бұрын

  @@agentarz Да много добре си измислил схемата на Следващия ти по подробен видеоклип , но само не можах да разбера Двете жици на импровизираната верига с двата ключа , къде си ги свързал, може би за оригиналната букса която подава ток на моторчето или някъде във моторчето за да го спре принудително, Става въпрос за двете жици които идват към импровизираната схема с ключовете . Дано да си ме разбрал приятел !! И възможно ли е ако все още се занимаваш с това да се договорим някак да ти изпратя моторчето да го направиш , може би и аз го бих направил ,но човек като тебе има повече опит. Поздрави !!

• 
  @agentarz Жыл бұрын

  @@Nik.AutoWorld Пак казвам... обяснил съм в описанието под клипа къде се свързва! Моля прочетете го! Имайте впредвид, че и свалянето на клапата с моторчето не е много лесно. Попринцип бих го направил, но не се очертава скоро да имам свободно време.

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  @iabarreiro2 жыл бұрын

  How did you do that?

• 
  @billi432 жыл бұрын

  Резанатор от девятки и пустой глушак звучат так же)

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  @grzegorzjeszka73022 жыл бұрын

  Is this solved?

• 
  @agentarz2 жыл бұрын

  No. I don't even know if it's a problem. I have no dtc error.

• 
  @luismasala36902 жыл бұрын

  Hola buenas ppr que te sale la temperatura en el marcador ami no me sale en mi marcador

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  @exitido2 жыл бұрын

  Ningún Astra H tiene eso. Se lo habrá puesto el con un lector de obd y una pantalla que habrá integrado a saber cómo. Tienes pantallas que te dicen la temperatura en Amazon poniendo hud obd, pero no quedan tan bien como la del vídeo

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  @renemelcher5802 жыл бұрын

  Klingt mal richtig Scheisse. Dabei liebe ich Opel

• 
  @NERI-SHKEMBI2 жыл бұрын

  my car Z16xep zafira B 1.6.my problem is because in the morning when the engine is cold it works very well but after it heats up in traffic it loses power completely. only when it heats up it has this problem please give me any idea as I have spent a lot on changed many parts and without solution

• 
  @agentarz2 жыл бұрын

  Try to clean or change the nozzles, the problem with me was from them.

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  @NERI-SHKEMBI2 жыл бұрын

  @@agentarz can you explain to me a little more clearly why this is the case please

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  @NERI-SHKEMBI2 жыл бұрын

  because I have lpg installed but the same thing happens with both fuels at the moment when the engine heats up there is no power. I changed the o2 sensor I changed the cat coil. spark plugs.

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  @agentarz2 жыл бұрын

  Hmm, interesting ... O2 probes can be seen with opcom. I think their values ​​can also be reset with op-com. Do you know at what degrees it loses power? Have the three temperature sensors been checked? On the intake air, on the radiator and on the EGR valve and the thermostat. The crankshaft and camshaft sensors must also be checked. The cables and sockets are a weak spot there.

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  @NERI-SHKEMBI2 жыл бұрын

  @@agentarz this happens after the fan is turned on for the first time or the second time at a temperature of 113 °. why can this problem be caused by the camshaft sensor?

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  @danielalmeida57812 жыл бұрын

  🔊🔊👍👍👍🇧🇷🇧🇷🏁🏁

• 
  @Behdoo3 жыл бұрын

  Hoping someone may see this post and respond. I have an Astra Twintop 1.8l. I was going to switch batteries but did not want to lose the programming information...so I loosened the two main bolts of the battery terminals so I could start the car then switch batteries whilst the engine is running. With the battery terminals loosened I tried to start the car. As I turned the ignition, I heard the starter stuttering because of the loose battery terminals and suddenly the entire vehicle shut down. The battery has power but there is no ignition lights or anything. The Vehicle is completely shut down. What do I do? I cannot even close the electric windows.

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  @agentarz3 жыл бұрын

  What programming information? Only the time, date and daily mileage will be lost. Possibly the settings of a non-factory radio / cd. I think you should turn off the battery terminals for a while. And then when you hang them, it will ignite.

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  @renatinhodaheropuch12603 жыл бұрын

  Eu tive um girico com motor Buffalo 3 cilindros diesel com escapamento esportivo e rodas tala 7 e painel fueltech e volante fueltech kkk

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  @valezipedro2 жыл бұрын

  Aonde tu arrumou um corsa 3 cilindros?

• 
  @renatinhodaheropuch74183 жыл бұрын

  Sound like my moped 200cc 3 cyl engine.

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  @matteomarinelli62533 жыл бұрын

  I love opel

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  @ebay9973 жыл бұрын

  Safe straight pipe

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  @adich33 жыл бұрын

  You mean fuel injector nozzle.I have same problem with my 2005 Corsa C 12xep.Ive changed the same parts like you.No results.I didnt checked the fuel injectors.

• 
  @ozbeksalih77293 жыл бұрын

  What was the problem?

• 
  @agentarz3 жыл бұрын

  Solution in description.

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  @ozbeksalih77293 жыл бұрын

  You changed rail with petrol nozzles? Is it expensive

• 
  @agentarz3 жыл бұрын

  @@ozbeksalih7729 Try cleaning petrol nozzles. I just changed them.

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  @ozbeksalih77293 жыл бұрын

  Can I write you from facebook?

• 
  @agentarz3 жыл бұрын

  @@ozbeksalih7729 I don't use Facebook.

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  @NORIaquaCh3 жыл бұрын

  Is that temperature, voltage and IAT temperature gauge on the odometer factory? How did you get this?

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  @iwaka23143 жыл бұрын

  Разградчанин си имаме хаха

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  @agentarz3 жыл бұрын

  Не ти разбирам коментара?! Кои сте вие и кой разграчанин си имате?

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  @iwaka23143 жыл бұрын

  @@agentarz ти си от Разград нали

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  @iwaka23143 жыл бұрын

  @@agentarz и аз съм от Разград

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  @agentarz3 жыл бұрын

  @@iwaka2314Живях и учех там, преди повече от 15г.