The film leader tool is genuinely the puzzle piece I was missing… I am not adept enough to do that with no visual aid so that tool is a real game changer 🙌🏻 thanks for the great video
@davidcompton4885Күн бұрын
I know I'm a few years after this video was posted, but I am wondering if, when rewindng my film, if I could just stop rewinding when I hear and feel the film release from the takeup spool (click, winder gets really easy), then open the camera back (shielded from any strong light) and remove the film and put in a dark canister. That way, I wouldn't have to retrieve the leader. All of the film that would be exposed at this time has already been exposed when loading the film, right? Just wondering. Thanks
@ivanlee31785 күн бұрын
Awesome video! What do you suggest using for cleaning and maintaining the plastic and rubber parts of exterior ?
@budthomason88905 күн бұрын
Just use the alchol and a green scrubbing pad. -5 minute job. Forget the q-tip. Cut the scrub pad into 1 inch squares.
@kenneths15856 күн бұрын
Manufacturers should stop applying these rubberized coatings, it really is time consuming to clean this stuff including power tools etc; before you can actually use them.
@dolcepeter6 күн бұрын
Yours is the best vid on the internet THANK YOU
@user-ul7ll6ud4n7 күн бұрын
I never thought of pre loading the reel. What a great idea!!
@davidg.98907 күн бұрын
I used Goo Gone that I bought from my local hardware store, I sprayed it on some paper towels and swipe away. To me it worked much better than Isopropyl Alcohol, I thought the person in this video wasn't getting to the point.
@rickraub54487 күн бұрын
Perfect. Thanks!
@film_friends7 күн бұрын
You're welcome!
@karimboukanadil100510 күн бұрын
thanks for sacrificing a roll to show us
@film_friends7 күн бұрын
Always!
@nicklopro15 күн бұрын
I stink at in depth tutorials. So instead I have been posting silly meme film photography shorts. By the way! I remember reaching out to you about that light you used for scanning. Definitely appreciate that vid you made, the light has worked great and def helped my scans.
@film_friends12 күн бұрын
Thanks dude! Im so glad I could help. Long videos are hard but short ones get the most views these days haha
@aliecegifford103518 күн бұрын
What camera do you use for your vlogging segments? Excellent quality!
@film_friends12 күн бұрын
I shoot on Sony!
@philbodale940618 күн бұрын
This is by far the best video on KZread about developing film at home.
@film_friends12 күн бұрын
Thanks so much!
@aidenreid245818 күн бұрын
If you don’t have a pitch black room or a dark bag you can hide under a thick blanket with the lights off to load the film.
@film_friends12 күн бұрын
yeah, make sure the blanket is thick for sure
@dcarrera0119 күн бұрын
These "tips" suck.
@film_friends12 күн бұрын
boooo, tons of people say they help or didnt know them sooooo, maybe they are not for you?
@rogerthedodger578824 күн бұрын
Top tip. No matter how tempted you are, dont try to clean your ears with the rubberised alcohol Q tips.
@film_friends22 күн бұрын
definitely
@adamsiegfried609827 күн бұрын
Chemist here. Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol. Great video on how to remove the sticky rubber on camera grips. It is very important to never use acetone on anything plastic as it will dissolve the plastic as well.
@film_friends22 күн бұрын
For sure! THanks for being here
@judeoorehhh410728 күн бұрын
Thank you for the video! This is the only one I will refer to when I do my first film development. Also, I was wondering what type of tape you used to improve the seal on the accordion bottle?
@film_friends22 күн бұрын
That is so awesome! It is actually pipe tape haha like what you would use on a kitchen sink or something.
@judeoorehhh410722 күн бұрын
@@film_friends Oh yeah I know that type now haha Thanks again!
@jijisnietАй бұрын
Very good explaining! thnx for going in so much detail, that other videos skip over
@film_friends28 күн бұрын
So glad I could help!
@scarletalayne6820Ай бұрын
If you want a suggestion for a lab that I have used- also for any Portland OR locals, is Citizens Photo. They do accept film that’s shipped to them which is great. While their turnaround for scans is longer & I home scan anyways, their dev is around 24-48 hours turnaround time Monday-Friday. They process 35mm, 120, 4x5, 5x7, & 8x10. Color is $5 for the first roll on your order & $4.50 for every roll after on the same order for development only for 35mm and 120. They do B&W, C41, and E6. They’ve been around since 1946 and are always pleasant when I bring film in to them. They do accept film shipped to them from anywhere which is awesome!
@film_friends28 күн бұрын
That is pretty affordable!
@LucaComo_Ай бұрын
As an alternative to the leader retriever, you can use already developed film. You have to lick the back of the film, stick it in the hole, twist the reel until it starts dragging your retriever in, and then pull quickly, and it should work. Saved me twice so far and I only started shooting film 2 weeks ago!
@film_friends28 күн бұрын
I have seen that trick! Thats a cool one!
@EPeltzerАй бұрын
Don't roll your 35 mm film all the way back into the canister. Then you won't need the fiddly film retrieval tool at all. Generally with manual rewind cameras you can feel when the film comes off the right hand take up spool, and see that spool stop turning. Also when that happens, winding the film advance knob or lever will not rotate the left hand film spool knob and you will know that the film has been released from the take-up spool. You can practice this in a dark room or dark bag with the camera inside if you're unsure on any particular camera. This is also a trick we used to use in order to expose partial rolls of film and then reuse them. Like say you have half a roll of color in your camera and you want to switch to black and white but not waste anything. Write down how many exposures you've taken and rewind the film but not all the way of course. Label the canister with a piece of tape. Once you want to reuse that film just load it back in the camera and advance it the same number of frames, maybe one extra to be sure.
@film_friendsАй бұрын
Thats a good trick for sure! I just crank it all the way to make sure its in haha.
@SuperstitionsSilverStasherАй бұрын
DIGITAL has killed the art of Photography.. I have a full blown darkroom. Scanning is only good for quick contact proofing. Then the big boys print master pieces in the darkroom.. BLOWS AWAY SCANNING in all regards.. .. can you scan and print 20 x 24 SILVER GELATIN PRINTS with your computer at home. . .. or do you slab over priced ink on over priced copy photo paper thru a $ 4000 printer.. BIG Difference DARKROOM WAYYY CHEAPER net net net just ask Ansel Adams lololol.....You will never hear a true photographer saying "Ill fix it in the Darkroom"... stay lashed to your computer creating density hues and tones that never were .. a facade..a FAKE is all a scan can ever be..end of story...ANALOG RULES when shooting silver.
@film_friendsАй бұрын
Maybe we should let AI shoot for us? Haha
@dashdv5Ай бұрын
I’m new to developing. If I develop two films in the same tank is that considered two uses for chemicals or one use? Idk if it makes sense but if I developed both film at the same time in the same tank should that be one use?
@film_friendsАй бұрын
It would count as 2 uses but you shouldn’t really change anything about times due to that.
@stela6894Ай бұрын
Hey man thankyou for the video appreciate it! I do have a question though. Do the chemicals have to be heated up for development everytime or is just a one time thing? I didnt see anything being mentioned regarding this and if there was sorry I missed it. Thankyou!
@film_friendsАй бұрын
Every time they need to be at 102
@LuxuriantCarrotАй бұрын
Hey! I saw this video like half a year ago and it took me that amount of time to find someone to print this for me. Just finished printing and scanning and I would recommend 7:41 100%. Works great, just make sure the print comes out 100% right because if it's even a mm off anywhere it can crush the film or not let it in. Also, for the pins, make sure you print them vertically, because if you don't you get an extrusion on one of the sides which you have to sand down or cut off. Thanks for the video!
@film_friendsАй бұрын
Thats so awesome
@yogawithsamantharoseАй бұрын
Thanks for this. Developing at home is not difficult. It requires some background of understanding of how film works & following the directions exactly. My aunt showed me how to develop her film in the bathroom back when I was a girl. I used your Amazon storefront to buy the products. Love your channel, Will!
@film_friendsАй бұрын
Thanks so much!! Yeah, if people are like me, even with printed directions, I love watching a video about it
@RanGer-498Ай бұрын
Skip to 4:15 for the info
@film_friendsАй бұрын
Such good advice
@mcdo0gal1985Ай бұрын
bro sick hat got a link?
@film_friendsАй бұрын
My uncle got it for me from south africa. so no sadly :(
@suhakarkhy6392 ай бұрын
do I keep the developer and the blix after using it? or do I throw it away?
@film_friends2 ай бұрын
Keep it. You should be able to get 15ish rolls out of a kit
@comradezach85162 ай бұрын
This video was nice but it's profoundly annoying that you just continue repeating to go watch the other video and talk about leaving details out. Like I'm not gonna lie, this video helped me. But I'm not being gimmicked into watching more ads for you when I'm here to learn.
@film_friends2 ай бұрын
I made an hour long video about developing film. this covered how to use this specific chemical. You learning adventure is up to you. These videos are free to watch. Comments like this make me laugh so much. I get questions all the time on stuff and I redirect them to a video I have already made on the topic and people get mad about watching a second video. makes no since. I can't make a video on every edge case. maybe someone is mad that i showed developing but didnt show the final product in scanning? or maybe i shoulda showed how i shot these photos? or maybe this video should have talked just about what the chemical does and not show you anything else. haha i can please everyone, but i can help direct you through your learning journey in developing film on this channel.
@132indo2 ай бұрын
this dude uses same music from willem Verbeek channel
@film_friends2 ай бұрын
Fun fact! its stock music that every youtuber uses.
@glebfreeman60452 ай бұрын
Now SilverFast allows to scan 64-bit but it takes 30 mins, do you still do 48-bit HDR Raw?
@film_friends2 ай бұрын
Yeah i still use the lower one. it takes way too long for anything higher
@hoggif2 ай бұрын
This was comprehensive. I leave the tape at the end of a 120 film roll and use it to connect (an aligned) another 120 on it. Then just roll it on like you were continuing to roll a longer film. I use Jobos that have a separator clip between the two 120s but I hate using it more than I hate the bearings that I rip of from any reels that have them.
@film_friends2 ай бұрын
yeah the tape trick is a good one I have used recently. the stupid bearings do cause problems. I try to clean them really well with a tooth brush to make sure they are loose.
@hoggif2 ай бұрын
@@film_friends Why not just remove them? When you put the film on, you have a thumb at the edge of film anyway. It keeps the fims stationary relative to half being rotated. In case of a more catastrophic jam, you can also pull the film back out and retry (or put it on another holder) when there are no bearings preventing a pull out. At least jobo has notches too and I've never had a film end come out over those.
@studiojege2872 ай бұрын
Amazing stuff - Thanks! Just a queston about the 120 hack, since its more "surface" you need more developer (or more concentrated since it's the same volume), no?
@film_friends2 ай бұрын
Not in this case. it is designed for that much film
@Steinninn2 ай бұрын
This was helpful. Saw your video few months ago and had to dig it up again since I got my 3d printer working again.
@film_friends2 ай бұрын
Glad I could help!
@ekat_kat59112 ай бұрын
Can you reuse the chemicals? Or should you get new ones every time you develop
@film_friends2 ай бұрын
Reuse up to 15 rolls
@ekat_kat5911Ай бұрын
@@film_friends thank you!
@stankersten5322 ай бұрын
Bit late to the party, I have a Eos 5 (the one with eye tracking focus) and I cleaned the grip using baking soda and some water. Scrub it on there and it cleanes up awesome!
@film_friends2 ай бұрын
Yeah Baking soda is great
@drewo1943 ай бұрын
Great info, found an old point and shoot camera that was pretty sticky, worked great!
@film_friends2 ай бұрын
So gooid
@retrotech3833 ай бұрын
Im really interested in developing my own film sometime just for price reasons (and extra hipster points) my local lab charges roughly 20 bucks for developing and scanning (thats just for getting digital copies) and an extra 23 for physical copies, unsure if they are proper darkroom prints or regular office printing machine prints from digital copies (hope they're darkroom prints) This video is def going into my how-to guide list!
@film_friends2 ай бұрын
Great! Yeah our labs charge 20ish once you have the gear, you can dev for around $1-2 yourself
@retrotech3832 ай бұрын
@@film_friends Def gonna invest in it in the future!
@lalkaEngine3 ай бұрын
one 220 film its 2x120 so paterson can develop 220 film )
@film_friends3 ай бұрын
Heck yeah it can!
@30DegreesBank3 ай бұрын
I have a question, since I didn't quite catch the following part: Do you rinse off the Developer from the tank, before you pour in the Bleach&Fix? I didn't see that in the video. I develop only B&W at home currently, and there I do that for sure. I wash with water in between the Developer and the Fixer, sicne otherwise I am contaminating the Fixer with drops of Developer. Also, do you use and do you have to use Stop Baths - meaning chemicals, that stop the developing process after the 3,5 minutes, or is just removing the chemical enough? Thanks!
@film_friends3 ай бұрын
You can wash in between or not. It is prob a good idea to wash but you don't have to. the blix is the stop, its a bleach and fix. which stops the dev and locks it all in.
@BrianMarcWhittaker3 ай бұрын
I have a V370. Can I get similar results?
@film_friends3 ай бұрын
Yeah absolutely
@whiteelephantvideos13433 ай бұрын
Drunks and booze just exactly why I don't subscribe to your channel anymore
@film_friends3 ай бұрын
what is this referring to?
@whiteelephantvideos13433 ай бұрын
It's not freaking funny she's a jerk
@igorvainshtein57313 ай бұрын
you talk tooooooo much!!!! Get to the point!!!
@film_friends3 ай бұрын
Welcome Home
@r.g.carter39083 ай бұрын
eleven minutes and twenty three seconds to tell people to use isopropyl? come on! u didn't even tell us what percentage.
@film_friends3 ай бұрын
100% lets get it.
@Wilett6143 ай бұрын
I see your ALSO a Yuengling FAN !! HaHa BTW this procedure DOES NOT WORK on my Canon Rubber Focus ring on my one lens . It REMAINED STICKY no matter what ... : (( Nice try tho Thanks
@film_friends3 ай бұрын
different rubber probably. how long did you do it for? this took forever
@jorsetti3 ай бұрын
Thanks for doing this video! Loved the Rialto image and have been impressed with Cinestill 800T rendering, great job guys! (love the red halation with this film stock!)
Пікірлер
The film leader tool is genuinely the puzzle piece I was missing… I am not adept enough to do that with no visual aid so that tool is a real game changer 🙌🏻 thanks for the great video
I know I'm a few years after this video was posted, but I am wondering if, when rewindng my film, if I could just stop rewinding when I hear and feel the film release from the takeup spool (click, winder gets really easy), then open the camera back (shielded from any strong light) and remove the film and put in a dark canister. That way, I wouldn't have to retrieve the leader. All of the film that would be exposed at this time has already been exposed when loading the film, right? Just wondering. Thanks
Awesome video! What do you suggest using for cleaning and maintaining the plastic and rubber parts of exterior ?
Just use the alchol and a green scrubbing pad. -5 minute job. Forget the q-tip. Cut the scrub pad into 1 inch squares.
Manufacturers should stop applying these rubberized coatings, it really is time consuming to clean this stuff including power tools etc; before you can actually use them.
Yours is the best vid on the internet THANK YOU
I never thought of pre loading the reel. What a great idea!!
I used Goo Gone that I bought from my local hardware store, I sprayed it on some paper towels and swipe away. To me it worked much better than Isopropyl Alcohol, I thought the person in this video wasn't getting to the point.
Perfect. Thanks!
You're welcome!
thanks for sacrificing a roll to show us
Always!
I stink at in depth tutorials. So instead I have been posting silly meme film photography shorts. By the way! I remember reaching out to you about that light you used for scanning. Definitely appreciate that vid you made, the light has worked great and def helped my scans.
Thanks dude! Im so glad I could help. Long videos are hard but short ones get the most views these days haha
What camera do you use for your vlogging segments? Excellent quality!
I shoot on Sony!
This is by far the best video on KZread about developing film at home.
Thanks so much!
If you don’t have a pitch black room or a dark bag you can hide under a thick blanket with the lights off to load the film.
yeah, make sure the blanket is thick for sure
These "tips" suck.
boooo, tons of people say they help or didnt know them sooooo, maybe they are not for you?
Top tip. No matter how tempted you are, dont try to clean your ears with the rubberised alcohol Q tips.
definitely
Chemist here. Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol. Great video on how to remove the sticky rubber on camera grips. It is very important to never use acetone on anything plastic as it will dissolve the plastic as well.
For sure! THanks for being here
Thank you for the video! This is the only one I will refer to when I do my first film development. Also, I was wondering what type of tape you used to improve the seal on the accordion bottle?
That is so awesome! It is actually pipe tape haha like what you would use on a kitchen sink or something.
@@film_friends Oh yeah I know that type now haha Thanks again!
Very good explaining! thnx for going in so much detail, that other videos skip over
So glad I could help!
If you want a suggestion for a lab that I have used- also for any Portland OR locals, is Citizens Photo. They do accept film that’s shipped to them which is great. While their turnaround for scans is longer & I home scan anyways, their dev is around 24-48 hours turnaround time Monday-Friday. They process 35mm, 120, 4x5, 5x7, & 8x10. Color is $5 for the first roll on your order & $4.50 for every roll after on the same order for development only for 35mm and 120. They do B&W, C41, and E6. They’ve been around since 1946 and are always pleasant when I bring film in to them. They do accept film shipped to them from anywhere which is awesome!
That is pretty affordable!
As an alternative to the leader retriever, you can use already developed film. You have to lick the back of the film, stick it in the hole, twist the reel until it starts dragging your retriever in, and then pull quickly, and it should work. Saved me twice so far and I only started shooting film 2 weeks ago!
I have seen that trick! Thats a cool one!
Don't roll your 35 mm film all the way back into the canister. Then you won't need the fiddly film retrieval tool at all. Generally with manual rewind cameras you can feel when the film comes off the right hand take up spool, and see that spool stop turning. Also when that happens, winding the film advance knob or lever will not rotate the left hand film spool knob and you will know that the film has been released from the take-up spool. You can practice this in a dark room or dark bag with the camera inside if you're unsure on any particular camera. This is also a trick we used to use in order to expose partial rolls of film and then reuse them. Like say you have half a roll of color in your camera and you want to switch to black and white but not waste anything. Write down how many exposures you've taken and rewind the film but not all the way of course. Label the canister with a piece of tape. Once you want to reuse that film just load it back in the camera and advance it the same number of frames, maybe one extra to be sure.
Thats a good trick for sure! I just crank it all the way to make sure its in haha.
DIGITAL has killed the art of Photography.. I have a full blown darkroom. Scanning is only good for quick contact proofing. Then the big boys print master pieces in the darkroom.. BLOWS AWAY SCANNING in all regards.. .. can you scan and print 20 x 24 SILVER GELATIN PRINTS with your computer at home. . .. or do you slab over priced ink on over priced copy photo paper thru a $ 4000 printer.. BIG Difference DARKROOM WAYYY CHEAPER net net net just ask Ansel Adams lololol.....You will never hear a true photographer saying "Ill fix it in the Darkroom"... stay lashed to your computer creating density hues and tones that never were .. a facade..a FAKE is all a scan can ever be..end of story...ANALOG RULES when shooting silver.
Maybe we should let AI shoot for us? Haha
I’m new to developing. If I develop two films in the same tank is that considered two uses for chemicals or one use? Idk if it makes sense but if I developed both film at the same time in the same tank should that be one use?
It would count as 2 uses but you shouldn’t really change anything about times due to that.
Hey man thankyou for the video appreciate it! I do have a question though. Do the chemicals have to be heated up for development everytime or is just a one time thing? I didnt see anything being mentioned regarding this and if there was sorry I missed it. Thankyou!
Every time they need to be at 102
Hey! I saw this video like half a year ago and it took me that amount of time to find someone to print this for me. Just finished printing and scanning and I would recommend 7:41 100%. Works great, just make sure the print comes out 100% right because if it's even a mm off anywhere it can crush the film or not let it in. Also, for the pins, make sure you print them vertically, because if you don't you get an extrusion on one of the sides which you have to sand down or cut off. Thanks for the video!
Thats so awesome
Thanks for this. Developing at home is not difficult. It requires some background of understanding of how film works & following the directions exactly. My aunt showed me how to develop her film in the bathroom back when I was a girl. I used your Amazon storefront to buy the products. Love your channel, Will!
Thanks so much!! Yeah, if people are like me, even with printed directions, I love watching a video about it
Skip to 4:15 for the info
Such good advice
bro sick hat got a link?
My uncle got it for me from south africa. so no sadly :(
do I keep the developer and the blix after using it? or do I throw it away?
Keep it. You should be able to get 15ish rolls out of a kit
This video was nice but it's profoundly annoying that you just continue repeating to go watch the other video and talk about leaving details out. Like I'm not gonna lie, this video helped me. But I'm not being gimmicked into watching more ads for you when I'm here to learn.
I made an hour long video about developing film. this covered how to use this specific chemical. You learning adventure is up to you. These videos are free to watch. Comments like this make me laugh so much. I get questions all the time on stuff and I redirect them to a video I have already made on the topic and people get mad about watching a second video. makes no since. I can't make a video on every edge case. maybe someone is mad that i showed developing but didnt show the final product in scanning? or maybe i shoulda showed how i shot these photos? or maybe this video should have talked just about what the chemical does and not show you anything else. haha i can please everyone, but i can help direct you through your learning journey in developing film on this channel.
this dude uses same music from willem Verbeek channel
Fun fact! its stock music that every youtuber uses.
Now SilverFast allows to scan 64-bit but it takes 30 mins, do you still do 48-bit HDR Raw?
Yeah i still use the lower one. it takes way too long for anything higher
This was comprehensive. I leave the tape at the end of a 120 film roll and use it to connect (an aligned) another 120 on it. Then just roll it on like you were continuing to roll a longer film. I use Jobos that have a separator clip between the two 120s but I hate using it more than I hate the bearings that I rip of from any reels that have them.
yeah the tape trick is a good one I have used recently. the stupid bearings do cause problems. I try to clean them really well with a tooth brush to make sure they are loose.
@@film_friends Why not just remove them? When you put the film on, you have a thumb at the edge of film anyway. It keeps the fims stationary relative to half being rotated. In case of a more catastrophic jam, you can also pull the film back out and retry (or put it on another holder) when there are no bearings preventing a pull out. At least jobo has notches too and I've never had a film end come out over those.
Amazing stuff - Thanks! Just a queston about the 120 hack, since its more "surface" you need more developer (or more concentrated since it's the same volume), no?
Not in this case. it is designed for that much film
This was helpful. Saw your video few months ago and had to dig it up again since I got my 3d printer working again.
Glad I could help!
Can you reuse the chemicals? Or should you get new ones every time you develop
Reuse up to 15 rolls
@@film_friends thank you!
Bit late to the party, I have a Eos 5 (the one with eye tracking focus) and I cleaned the grip using baking soda and some water. Scrub it on there and it cleanes up awesome!
Yeah Baking soda is great
Great info, found an old point and shoot camera that was pretty sticky, worked great!
So gooid
Im really interested in developing my own film sometime just for price reasons (and extra hipster points) my local lab charges roughly 20 bucks for developing and scanning (thats just for getting digital copies) and an extra 23 for physical copies, unsure if they are proper darkroom prints or regular office printing machine prints from digital copies (hope they're darkroom prints) This video is def going into my how-to guide list!
Great! Yeah our labs charge 20ish once you have the gear, you can dev for around $1-2 yourself
@@film_friends Def gonna invest in it in the future!
one 220 film its 2x120 so paterson can develop 220 film )
Heck yeah it can!
I have a question, since I didn't quite catch the following part: Do you rinse off the Developer from the tank, before you pour in the Bleach&Fix? I didn't see that in the video. I develop only B&W at home currently, and there I do that for sure. I wash with water in between the Developer and the Fixer, sicne otherwise I am contaminating the Fixer with drops of Developer. Also, do you use and do you have to use Stop Baths - meaning chemicals, that stop the developing process after the 3,5 minutes, or is just removing the chemical enough? Thanks!
You can wash in between or not. It is prob a good idea to wash but you don't have to. the blix is the stop, its a bleach and fix. which stops the dev and locks it all in.
I have a V370. Can I get similar results?
Yeah absolutely
Drunks and booze just exactly why I don't subscribe to your channel anymore
what is this referring to?
It's not freaking funny she's a jerk
you talk tooooooo much!!!! Get to the point!!!
Welcome Home
eleven minutes and twenty three seconds to tell people to use isopropyl? come on! u didn't even tell us what percentage.
100% lets get it.
I see your ALSO a Yuengling FAN !! HaHa BTW this procedure DOES NOT WORK on my Canon Rubber Focus ring on my one lens . It REMAINED STICKY no matter what ... : (( Nice try tho Thanks
different rubber probably. how long did you do it for? this took forever
Thanks for doing this video! Loved the Rialto image and have been impressed with Cinestill 800T rendering, great job guys! (love the red halation with this film stock!)
I know it sso cool!
USE Hand Sanitiser Gel !!!!!!
Good idea