Restoring and repairing tractors and implements with a little farming thrown in.
All videos are intended for entertainment purposes only. Any attempt to duplicate repair procedures depicted are at your own risk. Not responsible for damage or loss to person or property.
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what is the rebuild kit part number and where can I order it from? thanks
Kit is SRK401. You can buy it from numerous places online. Just have to Google it and find your favorite retailer.
great vid. I have the same compressor. I ended up buying the air refrigerator from Quincy to remove the moisture.
Hello:) I have an issue, my ford 4610 3 point will not move down or up, the handle is stuck, anny idea what it could be?
@DagfinnVikse not sure on that model. If the lever is stuck I'd say something inside the top may be bound up.
@@chickenhousemechanic Ok, hmm it looks just like yours, is there somthing werry important we need to think about when we take of the top to have a look?
@@DagfinnVikse worn parts, bent parts, or corrosion. I've not had one of those covers off.
are the parts for this trans expensive or hard to get?
@narcissistinjurygiver2932 depends on what parts are needed. Gaskets, springs, bearings, and seals are easy to come by and aren't too expensive. Hard parts such as gears, forks, rails, and shafts can be found new but aren't cheap. Used parts are readily available, but prices vary wildly.
@@chickenhousemechanic thanks I am watching you do the ford 5 spd now. I am looking to buy a ford 2000. any suggestions?
@narcissistinjurygiver2932 I don't have any personal experience with a 2000, but I'd make sure it runs good and strong in every gear, 3 point works, and check tire conditions. Rear tires can be more than the cost of the tractor. Check fluid levels and condition also. Make sure clutch doesn't slip and shifts without grinding.
😊 thanks
I need to rebuild my pump...
What specific paint did you use to paint the dash? The finish is excellent and I really like the color.
Beautiful, professional work! Outstanding!
Have you considered doing gauge restoration as a mail order business where folks mail you there gauges and then you restore and mail back?
Never thought about doing that.
If I am trying to locate someone to do the re-plating, what do I search for (Zinc, ......) and if I find someone, will they do a job that small of just three little gauge cases?
Zinc plating or electroplating is what to search for. Some shops should do them. Back when I did the 861 I sent some parts out to be clear and yellow zinc plated. That was 14 years ago and they charged me their minimum prices which were $50 and $55 respectively.
I just gotta say, your videos are the most detailed and helpful out there on KZread. A lot of other channels skip over the important stuff. Really appreciate what you are doing, it has helped me out a ton on my 641. I was able to rebuild my power steering and hydraulics.
Thank you. I'm glad videos help you rebuild your tractor. A lot of videos aren't very detailed, so when I set our to do these, I made sure to add as many details as I could.
This is good but they will not allow it to dowm load. Why?
I honestly have no idea. Don't know if there's a setting on KZread that controls that or not.
i am looking to buy an 8n and would like to know what plow you would recommend i get. What should I pay for a used one and do i need to replace parts on it? I am a newbee who is about to retire and I have 5 acres i need to work. any advice is appreciated. I also need advice on an brush hog and a cultivator for this 8n
I would look for a 2 bottom plow that is either a 12 or 14 inch spacing. There's many brands of good ones that parts can still be had for. A good one usually runs around $500 in my area. As for a cultivator, a simple single row works great. Bush hogs are a little tricky on 8ns. A 4 foot will be OK in high grass and a 5 foot in shorter grass will work but you'll want an over running clutch on your pto for either size. Prices can vary widely on bush hogs.
@@chickenhousemechanic thanks. any other attachments you recommend? i am still watching your vid
@narcissistinjurygiver2932 you'll want a disc harrow to smooth your field after you plow it. That's pretty much the basics. A rototiller is nice but would be a nightmare to run on an 8n.
@@chickenhousemechanic the reason i am looking at a 8n is because it is cheap, easy to fix, parts are cheap. Is there a better tractor that meets all those qualities that you can recommend?
@narcissistinjurygiver2932 the hundred series up through the thousand series are great tractors but they are more than an 8n for sure. An 8n will do most work needed for a small farm but if you ever get a chance to use a newer tractor you'll see the shirt comings of an 8n. Pretty much all I use the 8n for anymore is cultivating and pulling a trailer.
When I look up this part number it comes up as an automotive seal is that correct?
Yes. They were used on many cars and trucks back in the day. I actually got mine from Napa.
I like the 861.
Where did you order your tank to filter and filter to pump fuel lines?
The tank to filter lines I made from 1/4" tubing. The hose from the filter to the pump came from New Holland. Part number 84252200.
Enjoyed your video except for the old rummie panhandling at the start babbling about malarkey.
I have a possibly 1956 ford diesel tractor. I’m hoping you see this and can help me out. The numbers on the engine block are: B8NN 6015B. And the only numbers I can read behind the starter are 2120. 6. Is this enough to identify what it is.
Hard to say since those numbers aren't adding up. A diesel wasn't available in 1956. The engine number should be a B9NN-6015B to be a diesel engine. That would be an early 172ci engine vs the 6015J. The 2120 could be a serial number but if it's the model number than that would be a 2000 model tractor which puts it as a 1963 or 1964 but with the smaller 144ci diesel engine or 134ci gas engine.
Very good video but I need one for a 6000 commander I think it's a 1964 since it has the orange paint underneath the blue
The inner upper bolt hole is drilled into the fluid passage so that is what the gasket seals also why there’s a washer on that bolt. You can put air into that hole and blow the piston out.
if you have an alternator internally regulated, do you still need that voltage regulator on teh steering column?
No. Nothing else on the tractor hooks to the voltage regulator. Everything will hook to battery, junction block or ignition switch.
you did good job with this. the new paint job looks slick.
My 860 jumps out of third descending a hill. Any advise on what the problem is?
Most likely a broken or worn detent spring or bullet. 3rd and reverse is the top detent on the left side where the 3 flat head bolts are.
Nice job!
If you were using two row hillers you wouldn't have that problem .
Nice tractor but you will wear out a clutch .
Better a clutch than a back.
what is the color code you used to paint the starter? I like it
Not sure of the code. It's the ford new holland blue available from new holland dealers. I think it's called empire blue though.
I ordered the new weight cage for mine so I didn't have to fight with that flex ring assembly.
GREAT VIDEO!!!!!
I would like to replace the 2 bushing in my pump, can uou please tell me where you got your bushings, any additional information, such as bushing sizes and/or part numbers will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Part numbers are in video around minute 24. Ordered them from McMaster-Carr.
I am really good at giving unsolicited advice.... I enjoyed your video but have a few suggestions. Once you plow a row, as your audience we have already seen what is being done. To film each pass was like watching paint dry. Maybe edit to keep the best pass. Also, your audience is probably people who don't know much about farming or like the old tractors. Maybe talk about them a little. I would have enjoyed hearing more about what the implement names were and how much they should cost to acquire. Also, what the purpose of brush hogging the tips off the potatoes before harvesting. What that step is important? Watching you do a 3 point turn to do the next row over each time, was painful too. Have you thought about working whichever row is within your turn radius next. For example: row 1 north, then row 6 south, then row 2 north, then row 7 south, etc. Wouldn't need to use reverse a single time! Genuinely enjoyed this video thanks for making it.
Let me see if I can answer these questions and comments. I did cut a lot of the plowing out because it does get boring however seeing it done a few times can help people see how it's done and what it should look like. As for using the tractors, that's what the video is about. There's plenty of videos out there of people planting potatoes by hand. I wanted to showcase the old equipment being used. The names of each implement is before each section. As for the cost today, I have no clue. Every piece in the video, with the exception of the hilling attachment, is older than me. My grandfather bought them all and I bought the 861 a couple years after he passed. I built the hilling attachment maybe 4 years ago. We bush hog the tops off the plants so they don't clog the middle buster when digging. Downside in the vide, and that yea, grass really fought me so grass was pulling the middle buster out of the ground. For turning the tractor aroun, it depends on what is being done as to whether I reverse and go beside the same row or skip rows. While laying off rows I have chain dragging to mark the next row so each row is done side by side. Hilling can be either way. I usually do 1st two side by side to check how the hiller is working. Bush hogging was done in circles. Hope this helps to clear up some things. And thanks for the comment.
Any idea where to get bulbs to match those? Only ones i have found have a different patern and its quite obvious
No idea. I have seen a few old GE bulbs for sale on ebay but they're few and far.
One is a little deeper than the other.
That's not OCD That's attention to detail. I have worked on them myself but not to the extent that you have. Thanks for the great video. Perfect way to start my day. Warren in Vermont.
Thanks for the step by step. It was very helpful. Some constructive criticism. When showing small details like the timing marks on the governor weight cage, perhaps try to show a close up of the marks. All in all a great video.
That big ole rust spot is usually about the middle of travel where the PS piston rod is at when the wheels are straight. Most of the time you’re driving straight as opposed to being in a turn so more wear occurs there than anywhere else on the piston rod, or so I’ve been told.
Great video, just curious, where did you get the exhaust elbow with bracket? I’m trying to put a 4000 row crop together and need one.
New Holland dealer. 86534432 is the part number.
@@chickenhousemechanic thank you
I bought a 1964 ford 4000 4cyl off a neighbor that stated it sputtered and died the last time he tried to use it and it would not start again no matter what he tried after that point. I bought it from him and after dragging it around trying to bleed injection lines and whatnot, I decided the pump needs rebuilt. I have fuel up to the bleeder but none after at any point. My question is (before I get in a mess trying to rebuild my own pump) where do I go to get the parts you mentioned in this video? And do you think I need the veins? I do but Im also completely new to injection pumps. Thanks for any help, and the guide video!
You can get those parts off amazon or ebay. The pumps seem intimidating but they're really not. I have another video on rebuilding the pump since I had to take mine back apart, since I put the governor pivot shaft in backward, that's a little more detailed than this one. As for the veins, that's up to you. They're not too expensive. The wear tolerance on them is very small, so if you're having fueling issues it might be worth it.
I ended up having mine rebuilt since the guy came so highly recommended from a friend, and he included all new parts for (what I think) is a reasonable price. I got around to installing it this past weekend, but it won't fire, only white smoke. I feel like it's not advancing enough but I have the advance maxed out. Do you have any ideas on what I can do to fix it? I've verified everything is like your install video and matches factory specification but I can't help but feel I'm missing something. I did not remove it like you suggest in this video. Unfortunately, I forgot that step when I took it apart.
@fpstobi7728 if it's puffing smoke but not firing, and assuming the engine and air intake are in good working condition, the pump isn't timed correctly. If you followed all steps in the install video and it's not firing then the pump ins't timed properly internally.
I will call the rebuilder and talk to them then, thank you sir!
And just slide bendix on and put in pin??
Yep. Should be a collar you have to slide down on bindex to get pin in.
Im installing a new bendix and cannot compress the collar by hand like you show in the video. my welding clamps are to big to fit in between the starter and the bendix. My carpentry clamps slip off. any ideas on how to compress a new bendix?
@kraylake12 can you put something smaller into the hole on one side and push the collar down and slide pin in from other? Those collars shouldn't be too hard to push down. They're not weak by any means but they shouldn't be so stiff you can't push it down.
I've now got my 850 5-speed fully rebuilt, and I wanted to give a HUGE THANKS to you for the three videos. I watched each of them several times over, and it was truly invaluable information. Great job producing them, thank you !!!
Thank you. If yours is anything like mine it's smooth as butter shifting. Glad they were able to help you rebuild it.
I worked some new ground for my sweetcorn plots this year. Used 3pt 2 bottom Ferguson plow and cultivator to work the ground. I used my Ford 860 and Ford 851 powermaster, and planted with a john deere 3 pt 2 row 246 planter. Was a lot more fun and enjoyable than a walk behind tiller, using a hoe to make a furrow, planting by hand, then covering with dirt after. Saved a lot of time as well.
Reminds me of my tractor and growing up on the farm still have that tractor !
what size O-rings did you use for the output connection? I haven't been able to find a size that works.
Sizes I used are in video at 36:26. I had a heck of time getting mine to not leak. I had to clean paint off the pump at that spot and tighten the heck out of of the fitting. Pretty sure I still have the metric o-rings in it too.
Your videos have proved invaluable to me. Thank you so much!
Thanks for your tutorial, I rebuilt two lift covers snd pumps last month. In that process I lost the 3/4" plug to the lift cover check valve, can you sell me one
Glad to hear you got some stuff fixed. I do not sell any parts though.
I own a rebuild shop at one time in the early 70 , still got parts and latch plus tester machines Not much use anymore 😢😢😢
I’m going to look at an 1958 861D tomorrow
possibly the same generator for a 1964 Ford 223 straight 6?
Not sure, but good possibility.
Do you have the link to McMaster Carr for the wrap you used?
@tjtharp2432 this is the item number for the tape. 76525A752
I don't know if you did it but slightly rounding and polishing the leading edge of the spool valve with a fine emery cloth will help prevent galling and seizing of the parts.
Could you use a piece of 3/8 - 24 all - thread say, 1 1/2 foot long, and rig a slide hammer to pull that valve out rather than bolt, sockets and washers or would the impact damage the valve?
I suppose you can. The socket and bolt puts a slow even pull on it so you can feel that the valve isn't moving.
@@chickenhousemechanic I have a 1964 ford 4000 and I have no draft control at all and position control needs constant adjustment at the quadrant to maintain height, I' have been watching your videos and I'm thinking about trying to fix it....btw, are you an instructor?...your videos are very well made...Thanks
@jaycounts4717 sounds like your cam pin is worn out. I'm not an instructor, professional tractor mechanic, or videographer. I am an ASE master and Honda master technician though. I just know finding videos explaining stuff is hard to come by, so I try my best to show and explain as much as I can without being boring. Thanks for the comment. I hope the video helps you get yours fixed.
@@chickenhousemechanic Thanks for the reply, I have another quick question, why would the tractor pull/engage very slightly (not enough to roll the tractor) when the clutch is released in neutral?
@jaycounts4717 tranmission is probably too tight causing the output shaft to spin some. My 861 is that way and I haven't fixed it yet.
Great video I am currently rebuilding a pump. It's been about 30 years since my last rebuilt of this style pump. The pump that I am rebuilding is missing the filter retainer. Any ideas on where to get one or how to fab one.
I've seen a few used one on ebay but they're not cheap. Tractor junkyard may be cheaper.
@@chickenhousemechanic Thank you