If I can run with it, bike with it, hike with it or film with it I'll make videos about it here on KZread.
I am a 10x Ironman Triathlete, most of the content here started life in some way linked to my passion for triathlon, although that link does get a bit stretched at times. I occasionally share tips on training and racing long course triathlon.
If that is of interest please subscribe!
I have added links to some of the products I refer to in videos, most of these are Amazon affiliate links, if you click on them it helps support the channel at no additional cost to you - thanks!
Пікірлер
thanks for your adivce on helping me to decide which gr camera to get😃
I would love to see your pics....
Aren't you also a fan of classic mechanical cameras? I am wondering about the "feel" of this camera. What does it feel like in use, compared to e.g. a Leica Q? Does it feel more like a Sony Playstation console than a precision instrument?
Nice image of the Thurlestone Arch.
Thanks!
The obd constant power can keep the dash continuously recording for 10 mins, 24hrs or so on as long as the Car battery isn't dropping below 12 voltage power.
Good to know - thanks
Actually you never left Canon Just added Sony to the mix
Ha - Yes! :-)
You can adaptnthe lenses in r Canon , works good Not Like the mc11 Adapter
👍
If I could only buy 2 lenses for travel, I think one you would recommend is the landscape 16-35mm. What would be your other lens for stills, people? thanks
If it was two lenses only, I would take a mid range zoom and a fast prime. In that case I would take a 24-70 2.8 GM, use that for landscapes and people. The prime would be a tough choice between the 40mm 2.5 or the 20mm 1.8, either of which are great for for general walking around. I do like the 16-35mm a lot but generally I am only using it for landscapes (and filming YT videos when not traveling). So If it is the only zoom I am taking it would be too limiting in what I would use it for. With the 24-70mm I do give up on the wide end of the zoom but I do get a great portrait lens with it in addition to still being a great landscape lens. Hope this helps
@@ThisIsJulianC thank you lots
I love this watch
Me too!
Excellent video. I've just purchase an Osmo Pocket 3 so your review is very reassuring. My first impressions (and I'm in UK waiting for the rain to stop so I can take it outside🤣) is exactly what you describe, a beautifully engineered high quality product, incredibly portable and I'm looking forward to taking it overseas (oh got some Freewell ND filters....they're excellent too) on my upcoming holidays to capture moments. Thanks
Glad it helped! I have some Freewell filters now as well (I said I wouldn't get them... but then I did) but I am yet to try them out. Have a great vacation and enjoy your Pocket 3 #thumbsup
🔥
Thanks!
Audio turned on when driving alone for me. Off when I have a passenger/passengers.
That works.
Great Video
Thanks!
Great review. Thank you.
You are welcome… glad you liked it!
wow thanks for the gesture tip to shut up the watch and return to clock face !
I'm gonna buy one and here's why: I just want a new GR III. My current one I've had for a while and I don't know when it'll die, and they're becoming harder to come by (Adorama has a few at the time of this writing, B&H is out of stock). So I'm gonna buy the HDF not because I care about the new filter on it, I just want to have a GR III for as long as possible. One day these cameras will be gone and let's not kid ourselves--a GR IV isn't coming any time soon, if ever.
If you have the current firmware you can see how many images your GRIII has taken since new, that will be a good guide to age in terms of component wear (shutter) rather than years. I gave some thought to your idea, it makes a lot of sense if you are a frequent GRIII photographer. I use the ND more than any other filter, but if I was going to buy a second GRIII like you, I'd look at the GRIIIX HDF. Then I get the 40mm FF focal length and the HDF filter too. I would be more likely to use a HDF filter in a street environment which is also where 40mm comes in to its own.
@@ThisIsJulianC I have almost 28,000 actuations on my current GR III. Which is nothing! But I guess I still want another one. On both my Nikon D750 bodies I have 320k clicks and 292k clicks and they're probably just about dead soon.
Ads too intrusive
Sorry to hear that. Any different to other YT videos you watch or is this a general comment about YT ads?
I saw on Samuel Streetlife's video that attaching a lens filter above Ricoh GRIII's lens would attract additional reflections - not ideal. When and what situations do you use the ND filter?
I use the ND for wide aperture bright scenes and water images when hiking. Any filter attached outside a lens and not directly attached to it will have some reflection/flare risk, so it is always a compromise. In my case I use an ND filter more than a diffusion filter.
If you have the mic on you may hear your car being hit when the camera doesn't see the car that hit you, on the sides of the car. For example, if you are on the highway and someone bumps the side of your car, you will be able to hear it even if you can't see it. Might help. I have seen videos on youtube where you can hear the car get hit but can't see the car that did it.
See this follow up video for a major U-turn on dash cam audio... kzread.info/dash/bejne/Z6p_3KuDmd3IaaQ.html
My first DSLR was the 80D, but I sold it for a 6D mk II. New lenses are SO expensive, just as much as a new camera body sometimes. I love my DSLR, I learned on a DSLR in high school, and I will continue using it until I can no longer use it.
I still have my 5DIII and 5DII, I enjoy using them. I find I miss the sound and vibration from the mirror box with mirrorless cameras. I never expected that. Don’t sell your DSLR it will be cherished one day 👍😀
The air bubbles and tone change problems could be solved by wearing earplugs.
These headphones came with a set of earplugs for that purpose.
I have an XT-5 . For what i use my camera for i only used and ND filter twice in 1 year or had a need for one. I been wanting a smaller travel camera and Getting the X100VI is not and option since its just a bit small and making it weather sealed and adding a diffusion makes it much bigger (defeating the travel point). But in my case the Ricoh is just the perfect size and i seen people add filters to there camera making it a little more bulky and we are back to square one. Maybe im just the perfect customers where the Mist filter is better use for my case than using ND filter. If i need to use a ND filter i rather use my X-T5. The only thing that has be hold up on purchasing any Ricoh GR camera is the lack of weather sealing on the front lens. "I have no dust on my sensor" " I do have dust in my sensor", both camps swear one or the other and its obvious its better to have it than not. In an ironic twist i think you might have just sold me on a Ricoh GRIII HDF.
Thanks for your comments. I truly love using the GRIII, if you are likely to use a mist filter more than the ND then of course the HDF will make more sense for you. It is still a GRIII so you may well come to like using it as much as I do. I have read and heard of dust-on-sensor stories but after 4 years and thousands of photos I have not come across it on any of my images.
The point recording sound inside the vehicle it’s for Uber and Lyft drivers …
See this follow up video for a major U-turn on dash cam audio... kzread.info/dash/bejne/Z6p_3KuDmd3IaaQ.html
I believe that the current demand for black mist, high diffusion and other similar effects filters is a passing trend only. Am I right or wrong?
Sorta / mostly. Anything that soften ups the image has always been popular. Especially now that our camera's are so incredibly sharp. But I do think the whole retro and film 'A e s t h e t i c' thing where everybody wants to shoot with an x100v and a diffusion filter using a kodachrome recipe is at peak popularity now. I do like that retro look sometimes. Not for everything I do though. And sometimes I feel like a hipster when I do it. So I'm more likely to do it for some shots taken in a social setting, less for when I try to do something artistic. Personally I just run my pictures through Analog Efex Pro or Silver Efex Pro if I want a filmic look. Nik Collection is still out there for free from when Google owned the rights to it. Just the later versions are paid (as it now belongs to DxO). Shouldn't be too hard to find thanks to archiving websites. IDK if you can emulate that Diffusion effect perfectly in software though.
When I owned EOS EF cameras, I bought Sigmas etc if I could not afford the L series. Now, with RF, I buy EF L lenses. Cheaper than Sigmas and much better. I got a EF 100-400 F5.6 L is ii for under $1000 used. Now I have a super sharp zoom (rivalling any prime in fact) giving me 30 FPS on my R7. Getting a 500 F4 is L next week for about $ 1400, These are used lenses with wear marks but the glass is perfect and everything works. Why not? I love it. One day I will get the RF 100-300 2.8 and the RF 600 F4.... One day.
Sounds like you have a dream list of lenses, thats terrific!
Great video. Thanks. My 67W stopped alerting me of lane departures and red light cams etc. Tech support had me do a full factory reset/firmware update etc. Turns out the GPS part of it has died. No longer under warranty. I was offered a link to buy a "recertified" one at a discount and return my old one. Not sure what I will do at this point (maybe just keep it and use it strictly for a dash cam without any bells and whistles). Although, about a month ago I pulled the card and was surprised that the video I was looking for, while quite clear, I was unable to read a license plate of a truck that had run a stop sign coming the other direction. So now you see why I'm hesitant buying a refurb when I'm not impressed with captured video. I think I may have to consider a 4K cam. Suggestions??? Thanks!
License plate readability is not consistent with any dashcam I have tested to date, regardless of resolution. They are much better at capturing the action/event than smaller to read details no matter how critical they might be. Since this video viewers have convinced me that dash cam audio recording the best way to capture the license plate detail (read it out loud). My experience of Garmin after sales support has been generally good, I have had to return two watches out of warranty over the past 20 years and they have offered something similar to you, a deep discount for a replacement which in both cases was a new watch (even though they said it would be a refurb). However if you are not confident with the video quality you are getting maybe skip paying for a replacement 67W and look at alternatives.
@@ThisIsJulianC Thanks for the feed back. Any suggestions for a replacement to consider?
The Garmin 57 does a better job of capturing detail than the 67W Resolution and wide angle of the lens are 2 factors that determine clarity of detail. The 67 has 1440 resolution and a 180º wide angle lens The 57 has 1440 resolution and a 140º wide angle lens The 180º has more area to record so the pixels are smaller, hence, less clarity of details like a license plate.
I just ordered mini 2 for front and rear. Any tips/issues?!?!
Good choice. Activate audio for one of them only. Link them both to the Garmin Drive App. Use the app to line the view of the cameras up (mini 2 doesn’t have a rear screen). If you are concerned about keeping records of audio in your car then go for smaller memory cards, so they self delete more frequently.
@@ThisIsJulianC Questions if you can be so kind to answer. 1. Size of microsd card you suggest? I was going to get 128GB Samsung Pro Endurance cards. 2. Rear view camera install. I am having Best Buy install the cameras. I have a fairly new 23 Honda Accord Hybrid and wondering about the install. How will they do it for the rear? I am trying to avoid tear down less as possible for install. I would hate to have rattles or something broken. 3. With the cameras linked together, if I save an incident with from front camera. Will it save from back as well at same time? I am hoping by buying the same 2 cameras everything will work good together. 🤷♂️ 4. If you suggest changing front camera to the one you have 67w, worth it? I think you said if you could do it again, you would have got two mini 2’s instead?!?!
@@brenttitus2134 The larger the Micro SD card, the longer you will be able to keep recordings, the cameras will overwrite the oldest footage when the card gets full. I use small cards (32GB) as I am recording audio and I prefer that any audio recordings are not retained any longer than necessary. I can't speak specifically to a Honda install, I used the Garmin Parking Guard cable for the front 67W and the included USB cable for the rear mounted Mini 2 in my F150. The rear camera was much simpler to install because of the USB cable but it does mean I have a USB cable plugged in to the USB port in my center console. I tucked the cable around the door seal and then under the rear floor mat before it gets to the center console. If you have both cameras registered in the Garmin Drive app it is possible to download a clip with both views at the same time, in a picture-in-picture format. How to do that is too long for this reply but Garmin do have clear instructions online. I like having GPS so right now, I would likely get the same camera choices if I had to replace them today. Mini 2 does not have GPS, but if I have 67W up front capturing the GPS data I am OK using the Mini 2 for the rear view (Don't need the GPS data on both cameras). Most people prefer not to have the GPS data as it will document your own speed as an overlay on the video recordings which is why a Mini 2 both front and rear is still my recommended choice. Hope this helps.
@@ThisIsJulianC I was having trouble getting the live view working on the mini 2. So annoying! I ended up keeping the mini 2 for the rear and exchanging front mini 2 for a 47. Turned off gps etc with just date and time showing. Also found out mini 2 can track gps if you leave Garmin app open. Ended up with 128gb cards. I won’t be recording audio accept when I am driving alone. Thanks for the tips and input!
I can relate to this. I have the Go 3 as well as a GoPro and Action 4. My Go 3 turned out to be defective but Insta360 replaced it with zero hassle. I started using it again myself and love how fun and easy to use it is. It’s a great little camera!
Thanks for sharing - How do you find Action 4 vs GoPro? Haven't looked at Action 4 (yet)
@@ThisIsJulianC They’re both great cameras. I tend to use the GoPro Hero 12 more as I like the colors better, but the Action 4 is very good and handles lower light situations better. I also like that I can schedule Timelapse’s with the GoPro, which I don’t believe you can do with the Action 4, although I might be wrong about that. I like them both and have no plans to get rid of either.
Great review, thank you!
Glad you liked it!
You have a small wrist for the size of the watch!!
Haven’t heard that before 😆
I have the 1030 plus and without gyroscope the screen change orientation almost every time you stop (traffic light, stop, break). It seems that the edge anticipated your position and come back to where you actually are. Your screen is then showing the wrong direction and it is confusing, I often had to double check which direction I need to take. I guess the gyroscope can really help in those cases... I often wished my 1030 would have one.
Have to say I have never experienced that in years of using Edge 520, 830, 1030 and 1040. Tried a full reset?
@@ThisIsJulianC no I didn't tried, maybe I should try... as I am aware of it, I double check if I'm not sure of the direction it gives me.
Jesus man, are you in a bubble? Who doesn't know that Garmin cycle computers are great.
We think they are awesome... especially this one
@@ThisIsJulianCdo I have to mount it exactly flat extending from the handlebars or could I mount it slightly tilted towards my face? Thanks in advance
@@Swimming11you can do either, whatever suits your riding position. It won’t affect the Garmin either way.
@@ThisIsJulianC Thanks for that.
What's your favourite running camera? Would it the action pro 4, Go pro or this?
GoPro Hero 12. It’s the one I reach for most frequently and has the best overall image quality and stabilization.
Your footage looks better then the footage i am getting out of the Insta360 X4
May not be a good comparison - what are you seeing, color issues, resolution or?
@@ThisIsJulianC using the X4 just in auto and the footage looks grainy and when I zoom in it gets worse not liking this X4 lots of issues and the Studio software won’t even export 360 video I keep saying I’m going to take this X4 back but I’m still trying to get it to look good I understand that the KZreadrs do a lot of editing and coloring to the X4 footage to make it look good… I just don’t believe that it’s worth it
@@DRobertson725 Reframed 360 footage from X4 is at best at 2.7k resolution, which on paper is comparable to the GO 3. However with X4 the image is taken from extreme wide angle lenses that are then corrected for distortion using software. That is all going to have an impact on image quality. I have not tried to export full 360 footage from Insta360 Studio, only reframed footage from X3 and now X4. I published a video with X4 footage, you can see it here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oaForsWJnMKWnLA.html I did no color correction or anything other than reframe the footage and then export it from Studio. Not trying to promote another of my videos to you but it might help you with the comparison. Personally I don't think any 360 camera with current technology is going to match a regular (action) camera for image quality. But with X4 it is getting closer than it was before. Hope this helps
@@ThisIsJulianCJulian I think I am going to return the X4 and get the GO 3
So if you don’t recommend this garmin !! What should I get ?
There are two recommendations in this video. If you don't need GPS then get the Dashcam Mini 2, which is the best option for most people. If you do want GPS then buy the 67W.
Ok thank you. Just ordered mini 2.
Thank you for the great tips. I've never had a Garmin watch and debating between the 7X and the 7X Pro. The question I have is it worth it to purchase the Garmin 7X Pro?
Really depends on how important the optical HR sensor is to you. Fenix 7 Pro has the new Elevate V5. If that isn't important to you then get the original Fenix 7X. Hope this helps
I I I I talk about the devise and not you.
Sounds good!
Terrific video Julian. I'm an Apple Watch user and have enjoyed using several iterations of the device; the flawless connection to my AirPods, unlocking my other apple devices, and Apple Pay to name a few. I've been researching Garmin watches so I can take advantage of the much longer battery life and as I become less interested in 'staying connected' at all times the Garmin lineup has become more attractive, since I don't want notifications popping up while exercising. One of the most appealing features Garmin has that Apple does not (yet) are the coaching features. I would love my watch to recommend training plans based on my recovery and 'training readiness'. If Apple solves the battery issue (maybe 3-4 days on a single charge at a minimum) and adds some training support, I will stick around, but if they do not provide these features in the near future a switch to Garmin might be needed. Looking forward to your videos on this topic.
Thanks! I made a follow up video recently that might cover some of your points: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eGZkrqeiaaW8qtI.html I am much clearer today that I will stick with Garmin watches and not go down the Apple Watch path.
Thanks for doing this review. Use your chin to hold the cuff in place.
Thanks for the tip! I have found I can pull the cuff tight enough while still slipping it over my wrist, then it stays in place while I tighten it on my upper arm. Use it daily so got used to it.
⚔️💪😎👌🇬🇧🏴(stroke)
Thanks! Still trying to work out the meaning there :-)
I'm in such a dilemma! Two days ago I bought the R6ii and an RF 85mm f2 to go along with it. However, with Canon giving the green light for 3rd party lenses I don't know if should wait for Sigma (full frame lenses) or should I buy EF lenses and use an adaptor. What would you do?
Personally, although I have respect for Sigma and Tamron as 3rd party lens manufacturers, I generally stick with Sony (and previously Canon) OEM lenses. Even though EF L lenses are cheaper than RF today, they do hold their value better than 3rd party lenses. Canon EF lenses on a Canon adapter are seamlessly integrated on RF bodies. You are only giving up some weight/size and the admin of using an adapter. I’d go the EF route. Hope this helps
I have 15 67w in the front and 10 67w for the rear and sides. 720 surround sound too.
#thumbsup
WTF "DO NOT BUY THIS" then in the description "I like this camera here's a link to buy it" 🙄
For most people the 67W is overkill, unless you need GPS. The Mini 2 is a better choice otherwise.
The image quality looks so muddy compared to DJI Action 4 and pocket 3 though.
It is not realistic to compare the image quality of any current consumer 360 camera to Action 4, Hero 12 or Pocket 3. The image of a 360 camera is compromised by the extreme wide angle and the reframing process. If you don’t need the ‘shoot now reframe later’ flow of a 360 camera… any of those regular cameras is going to get you better image quality.
@@ThisIsJulianC but is you are using single lens without any reframing, is the image quality better and sharper?
@@samer820In that mode it will be up to 4K, higher resolution than reframed 360 footage but still using the extreme wide angle lens and software to hide the selfie pole. As a 360 camera compared to anything else in the consumer space that I have used, X4 is a significant step up. But if you are looking for it to match the image quality of Hero 12, Action 4 or Pocket 3 you will be disappointed
Loved your video and comments that followed. I still travel with my A7r4, 16-35 GM, 24-70 GM 2 and the 55 mm 1.8. I use the 24-70 GM 2 the most and the 55 mm the least. Can afford to make changes but since I make large fine art prints for sale I find it difficult to make compromises. I share your feelings of not turning in the 16-35 GM.
Not only are you seeing EF lenses sold cheap because of the exodus to mirrorless driving up supply, there's also the fact that EF lens prices were originally set during the pre-smartphone era, when point-and-shoot profits helped sustain the high end market. Now that the P&S subsidy is gone and pro equipment must be profitable in its own right, new prices of like-for-like had to double or triple versus EF prices. Normally the market would balk at a jump like that, but the shift to mirrorless provided the cover to do it. Hence RF lenses with prices 2x higher than EF prices *new*. So L lenses are a screaming value right now, and likely will be until the exodus runs itself out and the supply glut gets soaked up.
That’s a great point about the pricing prior to the mirrorless era.
Thank you for sharing your travel experience! Having an a7c, I'm always looking for compact, portable lenses with good image quality. I think you've nailed which ones are practical for travel photography. I'm also very impressed that you think through which lens(es) you need for each day. For me, I'll be selling my 16-35mm GM Mark I, because its bulk and weight make it so that I don't reach for it very often. I really do love my 40mm f2.5 G and my 20mm f1.8 G lenses. After watching your video, I might look into the Zeiss 55mm to round things out, or go the completely opposite way and get the 14mm GM.
Thanks for your comments. Keep an eye on what price you might get for your 16-35 GM, I was surprised to see how little the Sony GM lenses hold their value. That 20mm 1.8 is top of my list right now :-)
@@ThisIsJulianC I did get my 16-35mm GM used, so I won't lose out on too much. I'd rather it get bought and used by someone (maybe a budding filmographer) than have it sit in my cupboard. The 20mm f1.8 is phenomenal. For my last family vacation, I took it with me on a whim, and it was the lens that I used the most, for fun individual portraits, great group photos, landscape, and low-light shots. While it is chunky compared to the 40mm, it is still quite portable (and not intimidating to the subject!).
Audio sounded fine in all three actually knowing you were cycling with a lot of wind. Surprised actually. I also agree that in wide you get the standard GoPro “style” so you don’t have to swap lenses all the time. I am on my first GoPro and bought the 12. I have now ordered the Max Lens Mod 2.0. I will be using it for horseback riding which has some similarities to cycling so your review and comparison were very helpful.
Glad it helped! The Max Lens Mod 2.0 still amazes me. For riding I think you are going to see very similar results to my cycling, have fun with it.
Well, I’d say buff enough, no need to worry! 🤣. Nice clip, thanks!
Ha Ha - Thanks!
That camera is bad-ass! I just got one, have yet to use it