I like to share interesting items, maybe tools, test equipment or anything electronics that others may also enjoy.
I will review items as time permits and show some details about the item and maybe a look inside. I have a background in Industrial Electronics repair, PLC and Computerized Plant Controls, AC and DC Motors and Drives, DCS and CNC Controls upgrades and I really enjoy hobby electronics repair of tools etc. Feel free to join my Facebook Group "On The Bench"
facebook.com/groups/352614655247940/
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases of any affiliate links I share. In video descriptions you will find helpful links to parts and tools I like to use on the bench as well as a few other items I find interesting. Any links you click on does support the channel and I greatly appreciate it. Thanks for watching, thanks for subscribing and God Bless!
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That Amazon 8.0 is FAKE. Absolutely fake. Many people have pulled them apart on camera.
Where did you get that nifty scraper to remove LED Strip?
It's this style of scrapper and it is very handy. I found a spring steel blade and modified it to fit this thing over 15 years ago and it's still my go to scrapper. It works ok with the regular razor blades also, but so much better with the spring steel. amzn.to/3zxAfl0
Who else thinks the thumbnail is on point?
I always seen these Drill and saw battery packs but had no idea what they had inside. It's encouraging that it can be repaired.
Your first video saved me on a dead motor. Now the thermal fuse went and you saved me again! THANKS!
Very Nicely Shown!
Thanks boss just tore mine apart new film I can see the whole screen again.
Thanks for this very useful video.
Main fuses are connected in parallel, 60A each, so roughly they can handle up to 100A, but the wire is like 8 awg which should be limited to 50A, these fuses can be also triggered by microcontroller in case if thermal fuses pop off. Since I have two blown fuses I'm about to replace only 1 of them with a similar 60A fuse -ITV9550L5060MR, and see how it goes with my lawn mower.
Yes parallel, that is also shared on the Facebook page On The Bench. Not really relevant to this pack obviously, I just wanted to take the time to share that the information was there as we share together. In case others had issues finding info on them as we did when the packs first came out. Many times Teflon or TFE wire is used and it has such a high insulation value it can really take much higher current for a short time. The insulation will not melt until over 250⁰C. So not rated to handle over 100A constantly and it still will have voltage drop as current increases, but can handle very high inrush or fault condition until fuse blows. I was not sure if the 12Ah had 3 of the fuses in parallel or not... Thanks for sharing.
Do they make it for the gxl?
So mine is actually the gotrax gxl
Looks like the sell the V2 of it, but it's out of stock. I simply searched the Gotrax website... gotrax.com/products/gxl-v2-electric-scooter-console-1?_pos=44&_sid=f92482d9b&_ss=r
Thanks for this! I've long since switched to Milwaukee, but I've had this blower in my garage in the hopes i could fix it someday. It's the absolute best inflator for air mattress and and floaties!
I’m surprised it doesn’t use a dual coil woofer. I repaired a MK brand 200w which had a disintegrated foam and cone. Spec was a dual coil speaker 16 ohm. 0-120 hz, in a nice walnut trapezoid cube.
The Bob Ross of electronic repairs.
How do I get a whole new control system? Because all the wiring is messed up I wanna replace the whole upper tube and the handle bars
I have not had to do that to know for sure, but Go Trax does show some controllers for sale. This is reference only, make sure any item you choose will fit your model... gotrax.com/products/g2-plus-electric-scooter-console?_pos=46&_sid=050375cf7&_ss=r
Nice overview video, God bless.
Wow, great work. It's crazy how obscure the true operation of the logic boards and stuff are to someone who isn't prepared to analyze circuits at a EE level. I really appreciate what you've done here.
Thank you so much I love this video it just saved my life today ❤ I couldn’t make my subwoofer connect to my Roku tv and thanks to you I was able to connect it Thanks a lot
Thank you for making this video!
Wow, you saved me a lot of time! My issues were the transformer with two coils shorted together and a burned diode next to it. Also I damaged a super tiny smd resistor next to SMT32 while peeling off the silicon, I don't know what's the value of that resistor so I blindly put 2KOhm, it gives 2.4V for the MC and still working, according to datasheet it needs at least 2V. I replaced transformer with DA2320-ALC, it works now! Thx!
Awesome job! Thanks for sharing!
Our shower wouldn't shut off completely so I considered replacing the cartridge but before I did that I replaced the springs and rubber seats for less than $3. Solved the problem.
Can you get the booster cables separate
I have seen some EC5 connector type for sale. This is an example only. You have to verify they will fit your connector type and mate with it... amzn.to/4bsEmfy
Excellent video!
Gonna try just changing the hoses.
Perfect! Now I can do it myself.. Thank You!
Hey! Super cool video!. I was thinking what if I remove the batteries completely and attach direct power with AC to DC Adjustable Power Supply. so I can use all power tools plugged in. Is this something possible? its like making a direct power adapter for all stationary tools like mitre saw etc. Thanks!
I have done that years ago with NiCd powered tools mostly. It was easy to do with straight up 18-20VDC in and the tools were back in use again after getting so tired of the expensive and crappy NiCd packs not holding up. With the newer Lithium packs it gets a little bit more difficult. You have to figure out what the tool needs to run as far as feedback from the BMS board and after that it is difficult to find a supply that will deliver the current demand of some tools. Some of these newer Brushless tools can spike to over 100A in use. Just things to consider. I believe TTC has done this with a Milwaukee set-up and did some testing with it a couple years ago also. Thanks for your kind comment!
OUTSTANDING! Only exception is the need to be on Facebook which to me is an abhorrent platform in my personal opinion.
I do have Facebook group called On The Bench to the help with sharing, but not as videos at this time. Thanks for your kind comment!
Not sure if you said this, but after it’s fixed you should FULLY charge (even after it’s “done” to top balance the cells) then kill it all the way. Fully charge it then it should be fine. The shop I work in for my engineering internship had problems with them when they would almost never fully charge or discharge them with them switching to the flashing light. I used the jump start method and balanced them as I explained above and brought back 7/8 of the batteries. I think the one had a bad cell or bms.
where are produced those fake batteries?
شكرا لكم
Yeah i don’t know what ttc was on about cause these hyper tough tool perform, not like my Milwaukee of course but they’re no light weight either. I’ve done control arm and rear shocks with this little guy.
The service manual says to slide the clips forward to release them, but this works just fine. Which is just as well, since at least one clip on the coupe is inaccessible with the window in any position, even with the door panel removed.
I replaced the 2x mosfets from my middle (Blue wire) section and confirmed one of the mosfets had a dead short as shown in the video. For fun, I also tested the board, and discovered continuity (~100k) between the main pad and single pin where I removed the leftmost mosfet. I didn't have this on the rightmost mosfet or any other blank mosfet area. Is that normal? I'm asking because after putting everything back together, the motor only glitches for 1/2 second or less when I pull the trigger and then stops. Any thoughts what else to check?
The Mosfets do have a gate resistor close by that may sometimes accidentally get desoldered while replacing the Mosfets. I am not sure about that reading as that repair was some time ago for me.
For quite some time I have been doing repairs/rebuilds on the 5 & 10 cell packs (Makita, DeWalt, etc). I was given a Kobalt lawn mower, 40v with a dead battery. I found two dead cells and two very weak cells. I had comparable batteries available...so to work I went. I spent several hours trying to get the end cap off (after removing the screws that hold both ends together). I was at wits-end. After looking at a lot of useless videos (which is usually the case) I came across yours. I fast forwarded till I saw where you removed the single screw that holds the end caps together on each half. WOW... I was so impressed with finding that, I went back and watched your entire video. Good stuff. Please know how much you helped me out. I will agree with your comment that Kobalt makes a well-built battery pack! Thank you again!
Awesome! So glad it helped. Thanks for your kind comment and also watching the whole video!
Can we assume that all Milwaukee batteries purchased at Home Depot are going to be genuine? I would hope so because they are much more expensive.
I feel it's safe to say so! They are buying directly from manufacturers. On Amazon and especially eBay not so much sometimes...
A plumber wanted to charge me 500.00 and replace the whole valve because he said the cartridge was too old and would break off in there and it would be too hard to just replace the cartridge. I told him I’d get a second opinion…it took me 15 minutes and 80.00 bucks at the Home depot to fix it after watching this video! And no more leaks!!! Thanks and may God bless you!❤️
This is a great video!
Thank you for your kind comment!
Thank you for the video, it's helped me take mine apart and somewhat understand what's going in there. However when checking my cells they seem to be okay. I have a 5 amp hour pack and so the way they're wired I can only measure two of them that are together. When I measure each set of two, they're all very consistent at about 7.6v. Before I took it apart it would charge up to 2 bars and then the charger would start flashing red. Any ideas? I guess if I un-solder the cells I can check them individually.
They are together in the 5Ah, but 2P or 2 in parallel so it will still be voltage of one cell for example 2.8 - 4V. You will know if one is bad because it will also affect the other one in parallel with it.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you! So actually I think my cells are okay then. Any other ideas as to why I'm only seeing too bars before the red blinking starts?
@@BruceChastain I have not seen this exact issue with these packs as I have only worked on a couple of them now. I imagine you have verified the fuse is good. I would check that all balance leads measure correctly all the way to the board and if all else fails you can see if it's a microcontroller on the board to do a reset on possibly. I have shown that on a couple of other brand packs over the years. Some Ryobi, Ridgid and 58V ECHO packs have a header plainly marked and I jumped rst to gnd if you happen to see that. That is all else I would know to check from here...
Are you using 58V DC or AC on the control board you use ?... Is there a 120v DC/AC driver board for this motor to use it's max potential?.... Very cool video btw!
I am having DC in on the BLDC controller board and it converts it to the 3 phase pulses to run it. The higher voltage BLDC controllers are available at up to 20S or 84V, but are pricey. Thanks for your kind comment! Example 20s controller: amzn.to/3xtJgv3
Hello. Thank you for this video. I have the same machine. It would not start so I cleaned it out and when I put the battery back in it started and kept on going. I could not turn it off. The trigger had no effect. I would appreciate any advice. Thank you. Regards Elio
If it's like this one then it could be the plunger that the trigger moves to activate the switch on the battery, but other than that it is all in the battery. The trigger simply presses the switch that is built into the pack and that switch activates a mosfet on the BMS board to supply power. Most likely internal to the pack if it's not something jammed up with the trigger or plunger.
Thanks to your video, I was able to fix this exact same problem. It was like rematch your video, but in real life. I started scraping the silicone, and both fuses just popped out. I almost lost them. I wasn't expecting it to happen. The only thing I did differently was I kept the board in the holder just scraped the silicone off of the board around where the fuses would go. I'm not sure if it saved me any time. Thank you for your video, nun the less.
I have replaced 10 of these in my home over 20 plus years and on number 11 it would not slide in like the previous times. I had cleaned, lubed and still a no go. Using the brass bonnet to inch it in was the key. Thank you for this video and saving the headache.
Did you use neodymium magnet? Did you buy them or where can we find them?
I did use Neodymium magnets from Amazon. I used high quality flux and was really quick with the soldering since it will diminish the magnets strength the longer the heat is applied. I will also try conductive epoxy next time to see which works best.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks, I just see an idea on KZread, he took 2 magnets to hold the wire instead to solder it.
@@donaldm1156 It works ok, I did that for a while until I kept pulling it apart when I would go to remove it sometimes. Then I started looking into a permanent fix. I also have some magnets on the list to buy with Tapered hole to add a small screw and will try that soon.
Hey TTS. Good job covering EGO products. I've learned a lot from your videos. Do you know where I can get wiring diagrams or electronic schematics for the EGO products? I have a failed Power Head PH1400 (positive and negative input shorted) and could really use the information for troubleshooting. Thanks!
I do not know of any diagrams/ schematics available other than what we share ourselves as we learn what we can. That really is the main driver of sharing what we can about repairs. I have a Facebook group called "On the Bench" where we can share pictures or even videos if needed and more people are able to respond and possibly help in the group. I have not had that exact issue myself, but I would lean towards shorted mosfets if the controller if shorted like that. I do have a similar mosfet replacement video on the EGO chainsaw and at least one EGO blower repair that showed mosfets being replaced, but will be different on this controller of course. Best of luck to ya and Thanks for your kind comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you for the tip. I confirmed that it isn't a mechanical switch failure (too bad). I suspect you're correct that the chainsaws and blower's use very similar circuits. I am waiting for the warranty replacement so I can use it as a baseline for measurements. I noted that Cutler's sells the replacement electronic control assembly for about $113. Too bad there isn't better protection designed into the circuit. As a side effect of the bad Power Head, we fried several 2.5ah and a couple of 5ah batteries before we realized the head was the problem. I promise to share my results. Keep up the good work!
@schultzrus1 Hate to hear about the packs, I do share in a couple videos about the trace fuse on the connector board of the packs. It will sometimes pop in situations like this and can be bridged with a link like a 40A fuse link etc. to save the pack sometimes. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed good idea. Most were EGO brand but a couple were generic batteries too. Have you had any experience with the aftermarket batteries? BTW - when I started studying the Power Head problem I measured 0-ohms across the pos & neg blades of the head unit. Optimistically I will have a bounty of batteries if I ever repair them all! 🙂
The couple aftermarket packs I have worked on also have a trace going to the positive side on the connector board. Looks like they all likely add that for the weakest link!
i was wondering if i can connect the battery to a hobby lipo balance charger, will it charge without issue?
I have done it without issue. using the balance leads is the best option for charging of course, but to me it does pose the most risk of damaging something on the DeWalt board. Straight to the plus and minis is typically not an issue, but the balance checking will need to be monitored manually.
@@ThriftyToolShed ok nice, what are the TH and ID pins on the pack, what do they do?
@@devjitpaul1191 I have shared this in some of the DeWalt pack videos in more detail. TH is temperature feedback from the packs NTC and ID is a resistor in the circuit to feedback which type of pack it is.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you
I have a ryobi battery that shows its fully charged on the battery charger but is actually flat, what could be the issue and how do l fix this?
Sounds like a board issue. The mosfets are not allowing output to the output terminal is the most common cause. Sometimes these wake up after being put into the tool when working properly. When you have a board issue it will not. If you have checked that all cells are balanced well then all points to the board.
Can it test 4 pin bridge diode rectifier?
You can do 2 diodes at a time. So yes.
what do you mean by brakes sir?
DC brake. Resistor for braking.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks, would this product "DC 12V-36V 500W Brushless Motor PWM Control Controller Balanced Driver Board" on ebay work?
@@navpap1029 It needs to be rated for up to 60V and at least 1000W. I don't know the exact wattage of the brushless motor as I have not owned one myself. It will also need to be able to run sensor-less or hall less.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks, I could not find the rating for the motor I own. Also I tried to look up 1000W bldc controller, could not find either. So I went ahead and ordered that, so atleast I can learn. Fingers crossed.
Great video buddy! Do you know which cells Milwaukee build in in the M18 5,5Ah HD High Output battery?
Thanks! Tool Scientist shared they have Samsung 30T 21700 cells in them. I have actually never seen the 5.5Ah in the US.
I noticed you didn't apply thermal paste on the mosfets on the other video ... do you think that's why it fried or should've used the 80V or 100V mosfet?
It has the thermal pad between the heatsink and Mosfets instead of thermal paste. It was not in great shape and could be replaced for sure or add thermal paste, but no not for testing. Testing is fine it doesn't build up tremendous heat instantly as a CPU will starting up. I have used the same Mosfets in other repairs as well with the 56V tools. I have other videos of success doing the same basic repair. I believe an EGO saw and blower if I remember correctly. Just sharing one here that also did not go as well so I have it a retrofit just to play around with it.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for sharing, while I know how to solder and use a multimeter I would have had no idea how to check these or that they were called mosfets. If you can link the recommended 80V or 100V mosfet it would be greatly appreciated so I can try this repair on my broken leaf blower.
I believe I shared the link to these in the Blower repair video description. kzread.info/dash/bejne/eKyDmaWphpfIaco.htmlsi=w3c_QwtSprqfuQNY