Thanks for showing how to change the settings on that spot welder. I didn’t realize they had made it so much more practical to use on that model. Definitely puts that model above similar ones I’ve seen and used.

04:36 I could be wrong, but I think you're supposed to put +ve and -ve probes on opposite sides of the split. That way most of the current goes down through the strip, into the cell top, then back up on the other side. The way you're doing it has most of the current travelling horizontally through the strip, so it doesn't bond as well.

@ThriftyToolShed

11 ай бұрын

May should be that way for sure. I have always used my solid strips before so I never thought the split was important. Thanks for your comment!

Very nice. I just built a 2p Makita w Lishen 21700 cells and a DeWalt 2p with harvested Samsung 30t... Have some harvested molicell 20700 from dysons in the que. Great time it is to have these nice kits to build great packs at less than half the cost.

Interesting that the non genuine board charges each cell to 4.08V, the genuine Milwaukee boards generally (depending on the model, eg 12aH pack) charge each cell to around 4.15V with balanced good cells. Doesn't seem like much but adds a significant amount of capacity to the pack. As toolscientist pointed out, you're spot welding incorrectly, should be across the split, that's why the split is there, to improve current flow through the weld points.

@ThriftyToolShed

11 ай бұрын

I have seen most M18 and most brand packs in general charge to 4.15V. I have also noticed as mentioned in response to Tool Scientist, that if you are slightly above 4V per cell and put them back on the charger it will turn green due to hysteresis evidently. I believe I must have interrupted this cycle since I had multiple repairs going on at the same time depending on waiting on parts and these repairs went weeks in between finishing at times. I definitely mention in the video about the difference in capacity from the cell manufacturer specs of 4.2 down to 2.5V and lower discharge current. I felt that was enough on video to mention the slight difference that would most likely be less than 8Ah since it was 4.08 to 2.7 during my quick test. So yes the capacity is less for sure. Again, maybe I should have drained the pack down again and charged it fully to get 4.15V per cell. At the moment, I did not see that big of a need as it should have been obvious. I believe Tool Scientist mentioned also that his charger will go into a blinking green and charge CV at the end of the charge cycle. Mine is the older M18/M12 combo and does not do that. So I have been through this in the past the need to pull the pack down well below 4V so the charge will actually start back charging and top out. As far as the spot welding, I will have a video on that when I get caught up. All good points. Thanks for taking the time to comment!

Great video. Any experience with the Hart 40v 6ah battery pack?

@ThriftyToolShed

11 ай бұрын

I don't have any experience with Hart at all, but they are made by TTI the same manufacturer as Ryobi and are most likely similar. I have seen many issues with the 40V Ryobi packs for sure. So many cells are packed in a tight spot and the BMS board is super complex with the Mosfets cutting off the output with any board issue. They are problematic to the point I truly was tired of working on the packs before switching to the EGO 56V platform.

@cutum

11 ай бұрын

Thank you. I've got one that won't charge. I can manually charge it via the outer pins with a step up module. Not sure if it's the bms or what. Appreciate the videos. Take care

@ThriftyToolShed

11 ай бұрын

@@cutum If all cells test fine and are balanced well it is most likely something going on with the BMS board. I have had some minor luck resetting the microcontroller on the Ryobi boards. If you can find the programming header or solder pads where the programming header would be and jump the Reset pin to the Ground pin it will sometimes work, but rarely. Some boards don't even have the header spot so its even harder to do. I also have had minor luck with some Ridgid packs using plastic safe and non-conductive contact cleaner to clean around the microcontroller any corrosion that may be present. I shared some of this in a video on the Ridgid hyper lithium repair video and also the reset on the ECHO 58V battery repair video. Both of these packs are also made by TTI. Thanks for your kind comments and you take care as well!

@jdmccorful

11 ай бұрын

Good demo. Enjoyed, thanks.

@cutum

11 ай бұрын

@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for the suggestions. I did try to reset the pack by jumping the solder pads you mentioned. No luck with that. I was hoping to find a replacement BMS, but not having any luck. As you mentioned earlier, TTI makes the board, so I thought I would be able to locate a replacement. Only used the pack twice before it failed. Seems like something has the charged side disabled. A schematic would be nice too. Oh well, I'll keep looking. Thank you again for the input. Congrats again on your milestone subs!

I’ve had a theory for a long time I’ve not taken the time to prove, that the charger continues balancing cells after it says the battery is fully charged. It’s because the charger leaves the fan on and continues to draw power after it reports the battery at full charge (I’ve checked both Makita and Ego chargers this way). Is this correct? I think this since while rapid charging I don’t see how the board can adjust for balancing cells while pouring high current to them. I’ve also noticed a peculiar behaviour of my Makita rapid chargers; they constantly fluctuate between about 120W and 220W while charging. Seems interesting.

@ThriftyToolShed

11 ай бұрын

Although I have never tested for the purpose of knowing this, I don't believe the Milwaukee chargers do this. Well at least I don't believe some of them do. I have worked on M12 on packs for an example with the combo M18/M12 charger and after green light I have seen no noticeable difference in the low cells in the pack. I was actually monitoring a pack with cells reading 4V, 4V, and 3.4V and after charging up and turning green the cells were 4.15V, 4.15V and 3.6V after leaving it green on charger for several hours the reading was identical and no change. Other than this one example I don't know. The M12 packs themselves do not have the same BMS board or circuitry as the M18 to say for sure. I know there are also many more charger versions as well. Good point for sure!

Both Amazon links out of stock or been taken down 😢 must been your video but still available on aliexpress 😅 BTW extra nickel plates available by themselves as well suppose u could double em up

@ThriftyToolShed

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for letting me know, Dang that was quick... Aliexpress it is...LOL🤣

Looks like no thermistor. Have to be careful if pushing it hard. Would be interesting to see how they've done the low voltage cutoff. Hopefully they're monitoring all the cells. 4.08V per cell seems a little low for fully charged. Pretty sure I usually get 4.15V after charge.

@ThriftyToolShed

11 ай бұрын

The 12AH kit did not do well at all on low voltage cut -off. It seems the voltage has to get so low the tool cuts out on its own without the BMS doin it. This one did in fact cut out at around 13.5V. Usually these aftermarkets do have a NTC its just really too close to the board to get a real accurate reading. I would not trust them a whole lot. As far as the charger goes, the Milwaukee chargers are really weird. Have you ever noticed that they do vary like that? I mean its so weird if you take one out while its still charging with LED red and its around 4V per cell. Then use it for a minute and put it back on the charger it will go green and not charge. The chargers or at least some chargers must have one heck of a hysteresis. I do agree that 4.15V is typical and it charged this same pack to that level on the first charge hints the 20.7V when I load tested.

@toolscientist

11 ай бұрын

@ThriftyToolShed the tools have no low voltage cutout - they'll go until there's too much motor friction or not enough voltage for the electronics. I got an impact driver as low as 4.3V with a power supply, before it stopped turning. Yeah, they definitely don't charge until all cells are below a threshold. My guess would be 4V, but I haven't tested it. It's on my list, but it'll be a slow process of draining/charging a single cell and waiting a few minutes for it to settle before putting it on the charger and repeating. Red LED means CC charging, blinking green is CV, which happens when any cell hits 4.19V. So yeah, very easy to have all cells up around 4.1V and still have charger on red LED.

@ThriftyToolShed

11 ай бұрын

Yes, I am aware the tools have no built in cut-out , I did not explain well. I meant the tool (Brushless drill in this example) would shutdown on its own due to undervoltage before the battery BMS would tell the tool controller to shut down like normal. The LED light on the tool would even go out instead of the normal LED on but inhibited. Instead of 13.5V It was around 9V!! Yeah, it would be very time consuming to fully test, but would be interesting for sure. I have all older Dual M12/M18 combo chargers and when I seen you post blinking green is Constant Voltage, I am like.... I don't have that! LOL....

@toolscientist

11 ай бұрын

@ThriftyToolShed interesting with those chargers. I only have rapid chargers. I do have 2 older 2013 batteries that charge differently to all my 2015+ batts. They seem to do a slower timed charge rather than CC/CV. Haven't fully tested yet.

Hi been watching your videos very interesting you have watched this one I need to replace my 5 lithium ion battery’s x 5 as most are dead. The batteries are INT 18650- 15L Samsung SDI 120 any information wold be very much appreciated. United Kingdom.

@ThriftyToolShed

8 ай бұрын

If that many are dead or bad I would simply change all of them with newer cells. The capacity of the older cells are most likely diminished so that they would be hard to balance with others even if you did find the direct replacement.

@paulstanding7267

8 ай бұрын

@@ThriftyToolShed thank you for your reply I am indeed going to replace all 5 batteries as only 2 show anything decent. The battery is a 18v lithium ion battery just trying to find out what to replace them with. Any ideas. 😀😀👍👍

@ThriftyToolShed

8 ай бұрын

OK. Just making sure. I think these deals from 18650 battery store are good. I have no affiliation with them. I simply like their supply and sales they have at times. The shipping costs are going to be associated with, but I trust the cells from them. They have these EVE cells for a cheap replacement that are still descent cells... www.18650batterystore.com/products/eve-18650-33v Also they have these Molicel higher capacity and current output cells on sale and they are really good cells so far with my testing. Any good quality 18650 should be fine. www.18650batterystore.com/products/molicel-p28a

@paulstanding7267

8 ай бұрын

@@ThriftyToolShed thank you for letting me know I will check them out and let you know how I go on.👍👍😀

Too bad you didn't purchase the p45b cells!!! They are superior in almost every metric.

@ThriftyToolShed

10 ай бұрын

Absolutely, but twice the price at the time. My goal is if they go on sale or if there is enough comments about it I will also do those!