Technique Analysis of 3 Climbers on Midnight Lightning, Yosemite | Anatomy of the Climb
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Climbers featured in this video:
1st Climber: Judith Sim. Original video: • Midnight Lightning at ...
2nd Climber: Jennifer Poe. Original video: • Midnight Lightning V8,...
IG @jkpoe3
3rd Climber: Blimp Original video: • Midnight Lightning Send
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// TIMESTAMPS //
Teaser Clips (00:00)
Midnight Lightning Full Clip - blimp (00:27)
Intro (01:27)
Judith Sim (01:53)
A Message from Dan - Coaching Info (06:59)
Jennifer Poe (07:44)
blimp (14:45)
Outro (22:24)
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 91
INTRODUCTION
Welcome BACK to another episode of Anatomy of the Climb! We are stoked to once again be joined by professional climb, Dan Beall! We get Dan’s take on an epic climb in the Yosemite, Midnight Lightning V8
Warning: We get a little nerdy in this episode discussing not only climbing tactics, anatomy, and training tips. But, we also discuss some of the mental aspects of climbing as well!
Let us know what you liked about this version! We are always looking to improve on our process and make it more approachable to our viewers. So, let us know what you think with a comment!
CLIMB INFO
Climb: Midnight Lightning (V8)
Location: Yosemite, Camp 4 Boulders, Big Columbia Boulder
MOVEMENT INFO
Climber: Judith Sim
KEY TAKEAWAYS
When you do a dynamic move try to find a movement or moment that allows you to stabilize or fight the force. Instead of allowing the hip to fling back, away from the wall. Use the Moon kick to generate force in the same direction to help stabilize. (Moon Kick = Pogo)
The famous lookback: It’s uncommon to complete a big move when you are looking down at your failure spot. It’s the battle of preparing for failure vs success. It’s OK if it’s your first few attempts at it and it’s smart to be safe. But once you decide you’re safe, it’s time to go for it!
Climber: Jennifer Poe
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Fantastic hip abduction and external rotation mobility! This is a great reminder of the benefits of the Frogger stretch!
An elbow flare isn’t always a bad thing. Sometimes it’s just based upon the positioning of the climb, sometimes it’s to engage the pectoralis muscles more. It can, though, be a weakness of the external rotators. The reason this can be an issue is that excessive internal rotation without control or counteraction of the external rotators can cause labrum or rotator cuff issues such as tears.
Work on the strength of the external rotators especially in overhead positions such as with isolated ER work or with the Face Pull exercise. A face pull with overhead press is an advanced exercise but extremely helpful in this situation.
Mobility is very helpful and is not your enemy!... as long as you have good stability as well :) It’s all about balance. Climbing puts us into extreme positions but if you practice those positions you’ll be safer (just don’t overdo it :) )
Follow the “Rule of 7” (or approximately) when it comes to attempting awkward, unusual, or extremely challenging movements to avoid injury.
Knee over toes and ankle mobility
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/c...
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
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Пікірлер: 60
It is very nice to hear great professional quality discussion of movement. It really makes me think about my climbing more mindfully.
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Glad it had a positive effect on your mindfulness.
@danielbeall7725
2 жыл бұрын
Glad you like it! I’m still surprised how well these turn out lol. Emile’s the man!
One of the best and sexy-nerdy stuff about climbing I’ve seen. Love to see how theory and those preparational/prevention exercises are actually usefull in climb.
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Thanks for the support. Glad it wasn't toooo nerdy!
Love this one (and the smooth tune in the intro and outro! I feel like I’m learning a lot!
Amazing content as always. Thank you Hooper's beta!!!
Yeah, cool format ) Waiting for more ) Thanks )
God tier analysis. Keep these coming!
Definitely my favorite anatomy of the climb video so far!
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Glad to hear it :)
I enjoyed this format! More please!
more of danbeall please! he has a great nerdy way of describing movement
These are awesome! More of these please!
@danielbeall7725
2 жыл бұрын
❤️😉
Great format! Learn a lot from it.
Love the NERDY warning label in the video title, haha! As someone who got her degree in civil-structural engineering, I appreciate the in-depth discussion/explanation as well as the simplified points. 16:44 *Begins extremely thorough analysis of physics, dynamics, effective hinge widths, etc.* 18:14 "TLDR on that; try to jump into a bent elbow." 🤣 Not only is Dan extremely strong AND good-looking, but his intelligence and ability to articulate his thoughts is equally impressive!
@danielbeall7725
2 жыл бұрын
Hahahaha best compliment ever 😂 Glad you liked it!
Great video!
Love it! Like to see more.
yeah. i think this shit is awesome, glad it popped up. nice work guys.
amazing content
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
this video is awesome
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
love this series! it is fun to geek out over the little details of a climb.
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Glad it wasn't too much of a geek out! Thanks for the support.
got that Dave2D outro music!
I was actually expecting "Off the Wagon"
@kieranjohnson6582
2 жыл бұрын
I'd love to see that analysis
@MO_Climbing_Stuff
2 жыл бұрын
its not in the US therefore can not be world famous.
I know it's an old video, but is there any chance we can get an entire new video dedicated to what Dan is describing at 17:00 ? It seems like an important concept, and I'm trying to conceptualize the physics of it in my head and struggling to keep all the angles and moments straight. Would love to see this discussed in more depth and with demonstrations or drawings or something.
Algogogogogogo
Wait have neither of them sent it? I’m confused why they said ‘it’s probably the way it’s supposed to be done’
You guys touched a good bit on the labrum and instability in the shoulder caused by an inbalance of strength with the muscles surrounding the shoulder..can you make a video or give information on how to strengthen stability in the shoulder and rotator cuff. I just had surgery on my labrum recently and cant climb for a decent while but im super excited to get back to it but i want to focus alot more on injury prevention specially with the shoulders..can you please help?!?!?!?!
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Sorry to hear about the surgery! We have lot's of good videos on shoulders, from one specifically about rotator cuff strengthening, to others about specific exercises for the external rotators and even scapular muscles like the lower traps. Check em out :)
It would be helpful to contrast those risky positions with perfect non-risky ones. I have some trouble to see where the actual problem is (ellbow coming too far backward/forward I guess?). Maybe you could even use a shoulder model to show what's wrong inside. Still good for awareness already.
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Good ideas! Always looking to make improvements
I like the format a lot! Could you do it on some easier climbs, too?
@PS-nm8wk
2 жыл бұрын
That way it would be easier to implement in my own climbing
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
That is a great idea! It will be nice to have all sorts of videos with varying levels of difficulty :)
@PS-nm8wk
2 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta 🥰
@danielbeall7725
2 жыл бұрын
Any particular climbs you’d like to see?
@PS-nm8wk
2 жыл бұрын
@@danielbeall7725 nothing comes to mind right now.
I would schedule coaching from Mr Beall, but damn that is expensive
Dan over here trying to create thicc climbers.
Pitty ou didnt check Ondra's beta, he was flagging during the first moves A LOT. Would be great to hear some opinions on his technique and what we can learn from him :).
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Ahhh we did, actually :/ But, sadly we didn't receive permission from his crew and didn't want to post without it.
@pavelbelik6174
2 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta Ohh I am so sorry to hear that. I hoped there would be no issue since the video is on "Jakc Boyce" channel, who probably captured Adam by himself, with no connection to the AO team. Anyways, great video, great work, I'm a big fan :))!
I googled moonkick and couldn't even find a definition online. Jargon that's local or overly obscure isn't helpful. I wish more climbing channels would just annotate definitions for Jargon they use in videos. It's just another layer of information that doesn't disrupt the videos main topic.
@arselihp
3 ай бұрын
named after Ben Moon, obscure local Southern California climber with a weird accent
Where are you? :(
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Still here! Just a bit slow lately lol. We'll be back at full force soon. Just lots of rearranging going on right now. -Emile
Not the boulder problem on El Cap. Unsubbed. Reported for false advertising.
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Haha I guess a more accurate title would be “most famous boulder problem for climbers.” The Boulder Problem on el cap is definitely more famous to the lay person.