Improve Your Climbing Instantly with This Pro Climber's Advice

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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro and Disclaimer about Grades
00:29 Porkchop V3 - Hold Ergonomics and Pad Placement
01:56 Dusty Coffee V4 - Dyno Tactics and Top-out Mobility
03:19 Welcome to Detroit V4 - Body Positioning for Optimal Grip
04:21 The Pearl V5 - Mastery Over Smashery
06:24 Vino Rojo V6 - Pinches and Rows are Not Bicep Curls
09:16 Angel Dyno V7 - Anchor vs Support Hands Biomechanics
11:19 Monkey Wrench V7 - Is Scapular Winging a Problem?
13:40 Bubble Butt V7 - Excellent Scapular Control Example
15:03 Fear of the Black Hat V9 - Overcoming Fear of Falling
17:14 Monkey Trench V10 - Controlled vs Sloppy Dynamic Movement
18:41 Americana Exotica V10 - When You Need Off-the-Wall Training
20:10 Red Wave V10 - Changing Shoulder Engagement
21:01 Red Wave Low V11? - Jump Mechanics
22:22 Sleepwalker V16 - Biceps!!
22:47 Coaching with Dan Info
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 101
Intro
Welcome to another episode of Anatomy of the Climb! In this episode, we tried a very different style. We asked you, the viewers, to submit your favorite classic Red Rock climbs (and fails). Dan and I then reviewed them and broke down some of the most important aspects of each climb and provided tips on how you can improve your climbing! Let us know what you think of this new style!
Climb Info
Climber: Miguel Climbs
Climb: Porkchop
Grade: V3
While this is mostly a technical climb, I just want to point out that I see loads of patients that are quite weak in an open hand position and this may give them some difficulties because you aren’t really crimping anything here. It’s about good mobility, footwork, and some open hand strength. Don’t ignore that training!
Climber: Geoff Lyman
Climb: Dusty Coffee
Grade: V4
Hip mobility and ankle mobility are important for the high foot movement that he eventually uses to rock over
If you feel you are limited in that region we have full length videos on ankle and hip mobility for you to check out.
.......
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/c...
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Red Rock: Ybratcher, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons
Red Rock: Samartur, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons
Serratus Anterior: Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons
Rhomboid: Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons
Trapezius: Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons
EZ Bar: Everkinetic, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons
// PRODUCERS //
Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
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#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #climbinganalysis

Пікірлер: 63

  • @HoopersBeta
    @HoopersBeta2 жыл бұрын

    Which climb is your favorite? Did any of Dan's tips surprise you? I think the discussion on when to fall is a really interesting one that doesn't get talked about enough.

  • @JustinConnor89

    @JustinConnor89

    2 жыл бұрын

    Totally agree that people need to learn to fall and know what height they are comfortable at. I see lots of folks scared to fall outside bouldering who then take their first unexpected fall and its scary to watch 😬

  • @jorgecrimps
    @jorgecrimps2 жыл бұрын

    Hey made it into the video!! This officially qualifies as the most professional coaching I have ever received 🤔 I guess I’ll be hitting those wrist rows and bicep curls today 😮‍💨😂 Thank you guys!!

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    Looking forward to seeing your Sleepwalker send video! 😁

  • @jorgecrimps

    @jorgecrimps

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@HoopersBeta absolutely, whatever time it takes I’ll come back to this comment and let you know 😉😁

  • @KetchupKidKyle

    @KetchupKidKyle

    10 ай бұрын

    ​@@jorgecrimpsDid you get it?!?

  • @jorgecrimps

    @jorgecrimps

    10 ай бұрын

    @@KetchupKidKyle not yet, I’m currently on V13 level 😅 still a few years to go 🫡😂

  • @davidbecker54
    @davidbecker542 жыл бұрын

    I've never really thought about the fact that the undercling is mostly like a row, not a bicep curl. Blowing my mind!!!

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    Right!? So basic but so helpful!

  • @JustinConnor89
    @JustinConnor892 жыл бұрын

    Awesome episode! The bit about keeping the shoulder closed off on your weight bearing arm was 🔥

  • @peterpham00
    @peterpham002 жыл бұрын

    Yesssss. These tips are so helpful. Thank you 🙏

  • @brainyu
    @brainyu2 жыл бұрын

    Awesome video! Would love to see more of this.

  • @alexandreconlon8990
    @alexandreconlon89902 жыл бұрын

    Incredible content. Thank you!

  • @madraven5915
    @madraven59152 жыл бұрын

    More of these please! I especially enjoyed the part comparing Red Wave stand to the low start.

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    Yeah I love the side by sides. We’ll have to do more of that!

  • @jacobjenkins2190
    @jacobjenkins21902 жыл бұрын

    More of this please!!

  • @AmirNickname
    @AmirNickname2 жыл бұрын

    Great tips! Thanks for including information on falling safety! I've measured the impact of bouldering falls and I think for long term health it's important that falling safety becomes a much bigger topic than it currently is.

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    It's definitely a topic that deserves more attention than it currently gets! Would save a LOT of people from nasty injuries.

  • @shivs254
    @shivs2542 жыл бұрын

    Cant believe how amazing this video was. great work guys, so insightful

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you! Glad it was enjoyable :)

  • @connerfernandez3078
    @connerfernandez30782 жыл бұрын

    Thank you. Imma go back to the sit with that stuff in mind

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    You’ll crush it!

  • @geofflyman3318
    @geofflyman33182 жыл бұрын

    Thanks y’all! Appreciate the tip

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for sharing your vids! 😄

  • @catherinehughes2683
    @catherinehughes26832 жыл бұрын

    Great vid Jason & Emile Always good when you bring Dan to the table to unpack technique. Is Dan a physio?

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks Catherine! Dan is not a PT but probably has more anatomy knowledge than most PTs out there 😆

  • @switchfootforever24
    @switchfootforever242 жыл бұрын

    Could you make a video about overhead shoulder mobility for climbers? Thank you! Love the channel

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    We've done that! kzread.info/dash/bejne/jJytpMqalJPggrA.html :)

  • @tim.trewartha
    @tim.trewartha2 жыл бұрын

    Would love to see the same thing with climbs from Rocklands. Heading there in 3 weeks!

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    That would be a blast! We’re planning to do at least one episode for all the major climbing spots

  • @jonowoodgo
    @jonowoodgo2 жыл бұрын

    I love the.... always pull through the holds 💯👌 Even though most times i do i always say it to myself and it helps so much 🙏

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    It’s surprisingly easy to forget when you’re mid-climb! 😄

  • @jonowoodgo

    @jonowoodgo

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@HoopersBeta hahaha very true🤭

  • @moeb1us

    @moeb1us

    Жыл бұрын

    @@HoopersBeta i am not a native speaker, would you please elaborate a bit what exactly is meant by "pulling through the hold"? THanks

  • @MiguelClimbs
    @MiguelClimbs2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks coach! Now I can send that thing! 😍

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for submitted the great footage! We could have made an hour-long video just with that :)

  • @chaosengine4597
    @chaosengine45972 жыл бұрын

    Hey! I didn't know you do this. My whole HUGE (tiny) channel consists of things I should improve... unfortunately, I see a lot of them myself :/

  • @SethPierceClimbing
    @SethPierceClimbing2 жыл бұрын

    Imagine wanting to show hooper your skills and he trash talks your scapula. 😂❤️ Jk I'd be honored. Biggest take away is I need to do more off the wall training. Posterior chain here we go!

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    😂😂 Scapula trash talking… something only climbers would understand! #respectthescapula

  • @manassrivastava1214
    @manassrivastava12142 жыл бұрын

    Namaste🙏🐥 have a good time😊

  • @TheXeeman
    @TheXeeman2 жыл бұрын

    unrelated question, does anyone ever have issues like some sort of resistance when they lift items down off a shelf? My left shoulder feels "Stuck" with soreness / pain whenever I try to lift items down from a shelf or from the upper areas of a refrigerator. I also find pain there when I start bench pressing

  • @kockarthur7976
    @kockarthur79762 жыл бұрын

    Could you do a video on hip labral tears and hip dysplasia (what Sasha Digiulian had)?

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    A mini series that I really want to do on this channel is analyzing injuries that pros have had and how they recovered. It's on the list! :) -Emile

  • @MrKittiemoo
    @MrKittiemoo2 жыл бұрын

    You reference “wrist rows” a few times, what are these? Are they different from regular rows (I.e. bent over rows with a barbell, inverted rows on rings, etc.)?

  • @danielbeall7725

    @danielbeall7725

    2 жыл бұрын

    I think this was just at the very end with regards to Sleepwalker right? Basically just fast talking combined with video editing. Wrists, rows, etc. I’m not aware of any exercise called a wrist row, and I certainly didn’t mean to reference one. Thanks for clarifying!

  • @cft103
    @cft1032 жыл бұрын

    There are bolts on top of Black Hat because it's a tall cube. The "easiest" DC is a techy V...3 or 4? I've heard of people DCing the V5 or 6 or whatever it is beside it because it's more straightforward. But yeah there are bolts for the descent.

  • @pariahstelar42

    @pariahstelar42

    2 жыл бұрын

    Downclimb from perfect poser i'd say is at most a v2, upclimb is a v1. Its on the opposite side of black hat

  • @cft103

    @cft103

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@pariahstelar42 Ah, I haven't checked in a long time, I must have misremembered the difficulty. I remember talking to someone about the DC and he said he preferred the harder route to the left(?), but then he was also super strong so a more secure/powerful V5 probably would feel better than a techier V2 as a DC for him even if not so much to us mere mortals.

  • @pariahstelar42

    @pariahstelar42

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@cft103 Ah interesting. To each their own. I've found the downclimb for perfect poser pretty smooth, It wouldn't cause a sweat for a v9 climber, especially if they have the mental fortitude to highball a v9

  • @angustin6590
    @angustin65902 жыл бұрын

    nice

  • @nathandevan3114
    @nathandevan31142 жыл бұрын

    The guy on the right screen on Red Wave Low looks like he's just so much shorter than the other guy, comparing the bend in the knees.

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    It’s the same guy on Red Wave and Red Wave Low :)

  • @nathandevan3114

    @nathandevan3114

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@HoopersBeta ooohhh wow. His feet seem like they're on the same holds though. I don't think I understand what's going on then.

  • @MichaelEverheartt
    @MichaelEverheartt2 жыл бұрын

    What exactly does pull through the hold mean?

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    Pull perpendicular to (“through”) the edge you’re grabbing rather than parallel to (“along”) it. As soon as the angle of your grip becomes less than perpendicular to the edge your ability to generate force on it diminishes accordingly :)

  • @MichaelEverheartt

    @MichaelEverheartt

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@HoopersBeta I’m not quite understanding. 4 months into climbing. I think you’re saying instead of trying to go straight up the wall use the angle of the holds fully “perpendicular “ so you get maximum use out of it?

  • @gezzapk

    @gezzapk

    Жыл бұрын

    @@MichaelEverheartt He means pull on the holds in the direction they are facing. Don't pull along it on a weird angle because it won't be as strong.

  • @nbka8rs
    @nbka8rs2 жыл бұрын

    algogogogo

  • @smarbed3395
    @smarbed33952 жыл бұрын

    what exactly do you count as a push-up plus? :D

  • @HoopersBeta

    @HoopersBeta

    2 жыл бұрын

    Lots of examples online! Just search "pushup plus." Probably easier to look at those rather than trying to write it out here :)

  • @smarbed3395

    @smarbed3395

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@HoopersBeta Thanks anyway, was wondering if there was a specific form

  • @danielbeall7725

    @danielbeall7725

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@smarbed3395 there is, but a little hard to clarify in text… 2 common ish mistakes: 1) upward rotation of scaps. First “set” (down), then protract (press forwards) 2) pressing as far as possible forwards, but still sagging in the back. Allows some winging and fails to properly engage serratus. Almost trying to round your back can help cue, assuming scaps are depressed and protracted already. Check some videos, feel it out, if it’s important to you, some in person or video instruction might be advisable.

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