Breakdown and Analysis of Evilution V11 in Bishop | Anatomy of the Climb
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Greatest appreciation to Dan Beall! If you're interested in receiving amazing coaching with Dan, you can reach him at danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
Footage kindly provided by:
Vincent Mollicone
Instagram: @vollico
KZread: / @vincentmollicone3020
BadWater Bouldering
Instagram: @badwaterbouldering
KZread: / badwaterbouldering
BadWater Bouldering's awesome 20-minute video on Evilution Direct: • DREAM CLIMB... Eviluti...
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// TIMESTAMPS //
Preview (00:00)
Full Climbing Video (00:19)
Introduction and Background (02:15)
Climbing Analysis: (06:13)
Information about Coaching with Dan Beall (11:02)
Analysis Resumes (11:44)
Final Thoughts and Takeaways (22:36)
Outro (25:13)
// SHOW NOTES //
Intro
Welcome to a very special episode of the Anatomy Of the Climb featuring professional climber, Dan Beall! We get Dan’s take on an epic climb in the Buttermilks, Evilution V11
Climb Info
Climb: Evilution (V11)
Location: The Buttermilks, Bishop
Climbers: Vincent Mollicone (@vmollico) and BadWater Bouldering (@badwaterbouldering)
Movement
First Move:
The first move I want to talk about is this big yard out to a far away right hand.
Now the body position and the incline of this climb make this a really interesting move. The right hand is very abducted and he is getting a lot of latissimus dorsi activation. Now, because of the incline he also wants to keep himself closer to the wall, but he is so extended that he is at a mechanical disadvantage for the right shoulder. Seemingly, the left foot and hand would appear to be what’s keeping him close to the wall. But, Dan, you have much more experience on this climb, can you talk about this first move and even into the set up for the next left hand?
It is interesting to see the different holds as well. The kind of side pull undercling versus the more traditional hold. One of them makes the next left hand move look far easier
As he unwinds he gets into a more traditional wide pull position and seemingly moves to the left hand without any issues. Is that because of the good right foot? The right hand? Etc.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/i...
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Abduction: Connexions, CC BY 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons
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Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
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#climbingtraining #trainclimbsendrepeat #physicaltherapy
Пікірлер: 53
Dan coach: Retract that scapula to generate optimal tork Sharma coach: just gotta feel it man, relax but not too much you know
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
😆 Dan’s technical knowledge knows no limits
I actually saw Dan in person climbing a few times 9~10 years ago!
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
He's quite the SoCal legend!
I would buy that shirt. “Train until they’re all jugs”
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
You might be on to something there ;)
@codyheiner3636
3 жыл бұрын
Yeah for sure! That's been my hangboarding motto ever since I started haha!
Man his knowledge and ability to explain things was incredible. So many things I never would have noticed or thought of. Would love to see more of him on the channel.
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Agreed! He'll be back for sure!
@danielbeall7725
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks man! Hope to be back soon!
Great technical/physiological tips! I'm not on that level to actually use them yet, but hope for later.
Ultra classic 👌 Great vid, Hooper. Hi Dan, I hope your van's been holding itself together! 😂
@danielbeall7725
3 жыл бұрын
Sadly it has died 😂 I’m on the hunt for a new steed as we speak. Good running into you guys out there! Seems like it was quite a productive season!
love this kind of video analysis, thanks for your always objective point of view Dr. Hooper.
Fantastic tips! Thank you for this series.
amazing details as usual lads. such a measured approach to climbing great advice thanks
As I have said before: after 56 plus years of climbing; climbing with some world class climbers; and coaching some pretty good climbers; if my joints only allowed me to climb harder; Dan is one coach I would love to pay to learn. And I wish I could have you for my PT.
Awesome video. Please get Dan on more! Great insight.
@danielbeall7725
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks dude! Glad you liked it, hope to be back for another one soon!
A great one! Thanks guys!
these are so useful and fun!!
Very cool video, keep up the good work.
This video gave me a bunch of insights on technique. After sport climbing yesterday (or at least attempting to 😅) I realized how much, as a boulderer, I muscle my way through climbs and sometimes technique goes out the door completely. Now I’m siked to get back out and try some fancy footwork and hip work and see if I can make some progress!
@danielbeall7725
3 жыл бұрын
Glad you liked it!! Always more to learn, no matter how long you’ve been climbing!
Great information
Love his approach to work on a hard route! (getting the good positions, finding how to link them, train until they are all jugs haha)
Damn, I like those analyzing vids. Can we have more of them? 💎
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Most definitely!
I love these videos
jimmy webb workin the pads down low
Dan’s the best 🤙
That was a Ch-alk-ful of great tips lol!! Love these videos!
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
0:14, if you want to continuously repeat the full-length climb. He made that V11 flow through him
Damn that highball !!!
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
It's a big boi!
Know what you did correctly; and what you did wrong; most climbers don't even know that after a successful or failed climb. Thus the value of video or coach.
@HoopersBeta
Жыл бұрын
Agreed! Both our successful and failed attempts on climbs can teach us a lot, just like in real life hah.
Hey Hooper! What can you tell us about knee pain? Not about harmstrings, but ths knee itself, the pain comes in heel hooks but also drop's or hight feet. I've been trying some exercices for the legs and also stretches but nothing seems to work.
Hooper what are the exercises to improve heel hook engagement / mobility when staying open in your hips?
is there a book that teaches those insights of climbing ‚properly‘ and efficiently? it would be nice to have some points to go through during climbing sessions and learning to notice some mistakes and improve little by little..
Hey, I often have problems with sit starts where my feet are close to my hip. Also some movements where I have to get my feet high feel impossible. Do you have any other recommendations than improving my hip flexibility/mobility for my?
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Not to answer a question with a question, by why do you ask for other recommendations other than improving flexibility/mobility? Are you already too flexible?
@wrigpearchewing
3 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta haha, I am already working in my hip mobility. It was more the question if this is the right point to target. Or if there other things to consider.
Hey Hopper, great video. I’m getting back into climbing after about 12 years. I have avascular necrosis of both hips and labrum tear. Any hip or leg positions in particular you think I should avoid?
Also, where are you climbing these days? Sadly we lost contact.
Just a thought...do you ever feel like saying to the spectators "incessantly calling out you got it dude, allez allez, send it buddy, actually distracts me."? Imagine a surgeon having the nurses chanting "yeah, you got it, breathe, dude, send that aorta, man."
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
I think the most important aspect is actually talking to your team (friends) and asking what each individual prefers. I certainly know climbers that prefer calm/quite and others that do not. Personally, I will ask my team (friends) to say certain things at certain times like "remind me to breath at this move" or "tell me to try hard and motivate me when I'm here" . It's a strategy that can build your climbing crew into a solid team and can help each individual climber :)
@mountbeckworth1
3 жыл бұрын
Very touched that you replied. And I agree with what you say, on reflection. Different cultures have different ways; here in Australia we would find the "Valley girls" chat at the crag kinda weird. And Americans might find us grumpy and taciturn. Keep up the great posts.
does the guy on the left have a sanding bloc in his pocket ?
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Haha is that it? I've been so curious about what it is but that could make sense!
Show me a 20ft fall to a pad. That’s sounds terrifying
I gotta know what he pulled out if his pocket ? Phone ? Wallet? MAGNUM Condom ?