#anatomyoftheclimb #applebottomjeans #techniquevsstrength
Analyzing Apple Bottom Jeans (V10/7C+), Joe's Valley, Utah. With FA footage of Griffin Whiteside (@griffinwhiteside), provided by Scott Channing Hall (@scottchanning)!
For the FULL SHOW NOTES head to the website www.hoopersbeta.com or go to: www.hoopersbeta.com/library/a...
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// Timestamps //
Apple Bottom Jeans V10/7C+ Send Footage (00:00)
Video Overview (01:17)
Move 1: Left Hand Throw to Crimp (01:59)
Move 2: Drop Knee vs. Flag (04:48)
Move 3 (05:42)
Glasses vs. Hair (06:29)
Move 4: Setting Up for the Big Move (06:47)
Intermission (09:14)
Move 5: The Big Throw (09:33)
Move 6: Overhead Heel Hook (11:49)
Deadlifts for Climbers Discussion (14:35)
Hip Flexibility (16:54)
Move 7 & 8: Two-Finger Pockets (17:52)
Move 9: Bent-Leg Heel Hook (21:41)
Griffin Whiteside FA Footage Analysis (22:27)
Channel Update and Outro (25:58)
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Movement Info
Movement 1: The first big left hand
Jason’s Thoughts: This move is quite simple, both Aiden and Emile are making a big move out to the left hand, why is this special? It’s not, it’s something we do so often in climbing, but that’s what makes it important to note. At this position, our scapular is in an upward rotated position. YOu can see Emile start to fall back, BUT, he has the strength to keep himself close to the wall. This strength is in the foot, the core, and… the lower trap! The lower trap is super helpful for climbing yet most people don’t train it enough. This can be a simple adjustment to your training that most climbers would benefit from .
Recommended Training: I recommend D2 flexion as part of your warm up and training. Or for a harder challenge, face pulls with overhead press.
Emile’s Thoughts: For the first move, my left hand actually comes off the start hold before I make the big swing, whereas Aiden swings and then releases the left hand to catch the next hold. The reason I did this is to increase my accuracy aka my chance of hitting the left hand in the right spot. By “assigning” the work to my right hand and feet (taking the weight off my left hand), it allowed me to extend my left arm sooner, making the hand-eye coordination a bit easier/more controlled.
Movement 2: The Drop Knee
Emile’s Thoughts: Drop knee holds my body close to the wall and takes all the weight off my right hand without requiring more force in the left hand. Aiden’s beta for this move requires an extra foot movement which also requires him to create much more tension through his left hand and into his right foot to be able to hold his body close to the wall and move his right hand to the next hold.
Recommended Training: hip adductor training
Movement 3: the big right hand
Jason’s Thoughts: … Do we notice any similarities to the first move? Just pointing this out. Again. Lower trap. Again… D2 flexion or face pulls with overhead press.
Recommended Training: as above, D2 flexion and/or face pulls with overhead press
Emile’s Thoughts:
Aiden hits the first crimp slightly more accurately and engages the crimp fast. You can see in his body position that he’s standing up on his feet more and pressing out with his right hand, allowing him to bend his left arm and engage his arm, shoulder, and back to stabilize his body. I hit the hold with a straight arm and open hand, so I barely caught it. I then have to reel it in. We both make a small adjustment to get our fingers into the slot so we can pull in and down harder with a pseudo full-crimp.
Ran out of room!! Full show notes here: www.hoopersbeta.com/library/a...
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS) & Emile Modesitt
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial