Thank you!! "Shining brighter now that my lower traps are stronger!* :)

Could y’all do an episode where you also analyze specific failed attempts (maybe side by side with the send) to show what happens without doing some of these?

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Great idea! Sometimes you need to see the work that went in to the final product to truly appreciate the process!

I love this, because you guys help me learn advanced technique and the muscles related. Furthermore, many moves are counterintuitive to what I learned when I initially started climbing. I try to always do everything statically and with flags, but it's really interesting to see those moves. Thanks a lot!!!

Oh my god I love this so much. I would say that this is also a great motivational tool for people struggling with sticking to strenght training.

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

More to come in this realm :) Glad you enjoyed it!

loved the breakdown on this one! thanks for all the detail

Great video, love that you incorporate training drills for specific kinds of moves! Matilda Söderlund is a great climber who I think there's plenty of footage of

I liked watching this because I'm planning on making a video comparing many different climbers and the way they climb the same route and this video gave me ideas on how to interpret different movements.

Love this concept!

I liked that you did a longer analysis! I Subbed and belled.

These breakdowns are fascinating! I feel like people will try and copy this style of video since they are so well illustrated and great feedback. I like the captions that are added too

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Considering how technical climbing is I’m surprised there aren’t more breakdowns, but hopefully that will change! Seems like a lot of climbers are getting on KZread lately so I’m excited to see what kind of content we’ll get.

Love the content!

these videos are fucking awesome. Im currently reading Make or Break by Dave Macleod while nursing a wrist injury and its totally changing the way i think about climbing and my technique in relation to staying injury free. Videos like this are so useful in informing what kind of training and what kind of engagement i need to be thinking about when climbing at my limit. So. good.

Man, that sample is the perfect bloc!

Great video! Would be nice some breaking down of moonboard boulders!

I think , there are many short footages were Nina Wiliams climb hard problems. Great videos by the way , I enjoy these a lot .

what a great intro

i love these videos

At 13:00 the scapula position he’s in is to do with direction of pull on the holds. The lower he hangs the more positive those holds are. If his chest was higher his hands would be pulling inwards

Can you do a video of the various crimps and open hand positions while on rock. I was needing some additional technique discovery in that area. I love your guys content and have been following your workouts and stretching techniques.

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Our first ever video discusses that but that but is slightly more focused on crimping. A video about different grips and the prime tissues/muscles could be cool! Thanks for following along!

@danielbeall7725

3 жыл бұрын

@@HoopersBeta Wouuuuuld be psyched to do a vid with you guys on the assorted grips and when / why to use them. A combination of physiology and tactics could be super useful I think.

Would you consider an analysis of Chris Sharma’s sens of Dreamcatcher in Squamish? I found his footwork in that climb to be impressive, and the route requires a few different types of movement through its course.

Hi boys! Thanks for the vidéo! I have some shoulder issues since a year, training rotators cuff with elastics will help to improve my climbing (strength) + getting rid of pain ?

Good video, but I was excited by the title's question, and a bit confused on how the video actually related to that, except for the training exercises that aren't climbing gym specific

@EmileModesitt

3 жыл бұрын

We talked about many different training exercises that you can do in the gym and I also mentioned moonboarding many times... You don’t HAVE to do any of them in a gym, but that is where most people will do them. Anything you can do in a gym you could technically do at your house or somewhere else, but a gym is the most common place.

@charlesbetz9475

3 жыл бұрын

@@EmileModesitt okay, but does training in a gym help you outdoors? This is the question we didn't know we wanted answered until you asked it. And now we'll never know

@EmileModesitt

3 жыл бұрын

@@charlesbetz9475 it was answered in the video many times. All the exercises we talk about as well as training on the moonboard does translate to outdoor climbing, so clearly the answer is “yes”

@charlesbetz9475

3 жыл бұрын

@@EmileModesitt I really liked your video and I subscribed to the channel cause nobody does analysis like this and I find it really useful. I just feel like the expectation from the title of the video was going to more directly and explicitly talk about the relation between gym exercise and outdoor climbing and/or a compare and contrast about the holds and typical body positioning. It's great that you gave exercises that can be used for outdoor climbing and I understand that that implies that there are gym exercises that are good for outdoor climbing, my only critique is that the video doesn't live up to the expectations the title gives.

@TurriPi

3 жыл бұрын

@@charlesbetz9475 Every single time they talked about a specific exercise to train a move the answer was "yes", and they do compare body positioning ("why aren't you doing wide pull-ups?"). The point is that indoor climbing translates directly to outdoors when you are conscious about what you are doing with your training .

01:09 bring me a ladder to go down

What's up with the crash pad placement? (Cool climb/analysis.)

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

There’s a tree stump at the base of the climb that you have to awkwardly cover (plus it helps you reach the start holds) -Emile

@8:09 Local here. Not a half pad crimp. More like a 1/4 pad slimper. That hold makes the grade.

@HoopersBeta

Жыл бұрын

Depends on the size of your hands :P also doesn’t feel like a slimper at all to me; feels nice a square edge

@LastCookieToCrumble

Жыл бұрын

@@HoopersBeta My hans are pretty big. I can comfortably jam a #4 with my fist. Feels slimpy to me just it was also in the high 80's during my one session.

@Buzzsaw: Climber is pulling not pushing with right foot at the beginning since most weight is on that foot given left foot is flagging.

@EmileModesitt

3 жыл бұрын

Sort of, but the angle of the foot hold and the position of his body makes it impossible to truly “pull” with his foot. The foot is simply too small and glassy to have enough friction for that. So, most of his weight is actually pushing downward through his toes and onto the hold, meaning it’s pushing his body away. There are some beta variations using different foot positions on this climb that do involve more pulling with the right foot rather than pushing, but not so much with this climber and this beta.

Hi you don't have a video about lumbrical injuries do you? Just injured mine yesterday because I had poor form (curled pinky while pulling on 3 finger drag) but can still half crimp and 4 finger open without pain. There's very few resources online unfortunately, I'll go see my PT but there's 2 weeks wait at the moment and I'm not sure I can train using grips that don't cause pain.

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Not yet! Sorry. It's up there on the list but have a couple more projects to tackle before that one.

@KingColliwog

3 жыл бұрын

@@HoopersBeta yeah, you're probably not having too much trouble finding ideas to cover. Glad to know you plan on tackling the subject eventually.

Maddy and Jen from Lattice would free solo this, would be around V2.1 across the pond

Hello

are you guys going to get a hair product endorsement?

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Haha 😅 yeah where those companies at! Lol

Speaking of strong woman climbers, I highly recommend a friend's footages. She has really good techniques. It would be fun if you guys analyze them :) This is a V10/11 kzread.info/dash/bejne/c6WmzcSeh8nLdc4.html And her sending this v10 is my favorite kzread.info/dash/bejne/aoF32MN_gLbJkso.html

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Cool, thanks!

But climbing outdoors is fantastic training for the gym. Spend a week at a crag then go back to the gym and you will crush it

There was a quick moonboard comment, but otherwise, the title of this video is pretty clickbait for a whats just a climbing analysis video

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

Sure, if you think of "gym training" as only climbing on plastic holds. But considering 1) most people do all types of training at the gym (including resistance training, campus boarding, mobility work, etc.), 2) the Moonboard as a training tool is mentioned multiple times, and 3) many different climbing-specific exercises are talked about (aka exercises that people will do in a gym), I disagree.

I think the analysis at 13:00 is just bs. If that is unstable, go look at Aidan Roberts and tell him his back is weak.

@EmileModesitt

3 жыл бұрын

So rather than believe someone who literally does this for a living, your argument is that because you saw another person who is good at climbing also have scapular winging, that the physical therapist must not know what he’s talking about? Your concept of BS is, well... BS. Try using actual evidence to support your ideas.

@Mylada

3 жыл бұрын

@@EmileModesitt It is not scapular winging. Scapular winging is a different medical condition and you cannot diagnose or say anything based on this video. Also, In scapular winging the shoulder blade does not wing to the side, it goes backwards. Why would you retract the scapulea? That is just limits your scapular movement and provides no extra benefit. To me his scapula looks completely normal. And the asymmetry is because of asymmetrical position duh

@EmileModesitt

3 жыл бұрын

@@Mylada “To me his scapula looks completely normal.” Are you a doctor or someone qualified to make this assessment in any way?

@Mylada

3 жыл бұрын

@@EmileModesitt Anyway, you can go watch aidan roberts or adam ondra climb and they have exectly the same shoulder position in many moves. They do not retract the scapulea and do not suffer from lower trap or serratus anterior weakness.

@EmileModesitt

3 жыл бұрын

@@Mylada You might try phrasing future comments more like your last one rather than your first one if you want to actually contribute to a useful discussion. I don’t know anything about scapular winging or assessing physical pathologies; that’s the point - I’m not qualified to comment on them. If you have an opinion you’d like to share/discuss, I suggest you start with a friendlier approach.

The dude in the orange shirt should talk less.

@HoopersBeta

3 жыл бұрын

I tell myself that all the time ;) -Emile