"I need to work on my fisting" is absolutely going in my favorite Wide Boyz quotes

@Robert_McGarry_Poems

2 жыл бұрын

Of course that crack isn't going to fist itself. 👊

@MB-co6qj

Жыл бұрын

Crack fisting?😂

Pete's willingness to throw himself into painful situations is commendable, and scary :D

The science per minute here is incredible

"We're going to pull as hard as we can against our own feet with these stretchy, scratchy, hard-edged, pointy, stabby, springy things. What could possibly go wrong?" Tom: "And I'm going to do it barefoot".

So much science in one video, incredible.

Pete: “Stand back, I’m about to try science.” Everyone: “I hope he doesn’t drag Tom into this.”

I just LOVE how Pete looks at the camera announcing the scores at 10:37 with the biggest of smiles. 49!

The science counter couldn't handle including variations like "scientifically"

I feel like it would have made a lot more sense to pop that loop over a pull-up bar and try to hang from it rather than pulling from your foot. No danger when you slip out, and also that's a more natural motion to climbing. (And maybe throw on a weight belt to get above bodyweight). Great advert for your gloves though, they made a massive difference on some of those.

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

Many things on this channel would make alot more sense if.... 😂

@azaba2007

2 жыл бұрын

Nah, it is much more "scientific" this way

@FlarkeFiasco

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, the way they currently did it, it's just a measurement of pain, which is important with jamming. I'd love to see a re-test with a bar method

@Rafa-uj2oi

2 жыл бұрын

Come on lad, let the sciencers do their sciencing stuff. This science staff know a lot about science stuff. Science.

@NOTYOU0BVIOUSLY

2 жыл бұрын

The problem with pulling down from it is that you're limited to body weight. What would have been best is to tether the device to the ground with a shorter strap so you can just deadlift it instead of the awkward pull that's mostly upper body strength.

The more I watch you guys the more I accept that crack-climbing is mainly about pain tolerance and the main reason Petes so good at it is his high pain tolerance. Very entertaining and SCIENTIFIC video.

20% increase just from the gloves?! I need to order a pair RIGHT NOW

"That's our first bit of proper science!" Tom proceeds to loosen a bolt with pliers.

@dougthebuilder1

2 жыл бұрын

I laughed at this too, probably found it on one of those shelves of random crap in the cellar

@sp10sn

2 жыл бұрын

There's science and there's there's engineering 😆

"We're gonna go for 2 fingers because... well that's science" - I'm stealing that line, thanks Tom!

“all this time i thought you had good technique, but you’re just a complete force beast. unbelievable.” -tom 2021

Can’t wait to see other climbers doing this and sharing the results Also, I saw that 69;)

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

Haha 😉

That was just a great episode to watch. I love it when theres that much science involved

Tom claims he isn't as brave, yet starts with bare feet

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

I know 🤷‍♂️ what's that all about!

@josefwild2318

2 жыл бұрын

@@WideBoyz for a 1 rep max test i d sponser you safety shoes🦿

@jdjones4825

2 ай бұрын

Is brave the correct word?😂😂😂

Yet again top notch editing

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

Thank @sessionmedia for these Thursday videos

@sessionmediaa

2 жыл бұрын

Cheers! 👍👍👍

Just scienced the sh*t out of those jams

@beardedboulderer2609

2 жыл бұрын

the subscribe*

I love how Pete appears to be unsure how to pronounce the word science during the ring lock stage :D I also hope Tom isn't the accountant for Wide Boyz with that 63 / 2 = 22 madness :D

I smile so much watching these videos. Subscribed!

FOR SCIENCE! I really love Pete's post-pull-face. about to pass out but happy! 13:45

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

I was seeing stars! Haha

haven't watched yet but still know it will be a good video! :)

This is exactly what I need before a hard training session Edit: it worked, I finally sent my 5 week project

@avawinter8634

2 жыл бұрын

Well done!!

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

Haha amazing 😀👏👏

What a great science video, loved it! And the edit is really well done too! I'd love to see you try with two hands down the crack, and maybe try something to science the foot jams. You'll build something, find a way, I have faith and trust in your sciencing!

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

thank @sessionmedia for the thursday edits :)

An endurance test would be cool to see as well! Like how long can you hold 70-80% of max for on each jam. Awesome video, really interesting science going on

Do you guys sell this adjustable jam box? Or did you make it? Really like the design and would love one of my own

Such an informative video! Thank you!!

I love how you guys compliment each other!!!

From the start I was giddy waiting for Tom to drop the block on his bare feet what a treat!

Crack gloves came today. They are definitely a tight fit, but the material is phenomenal. Most definitely worth the wait. I will be heading for the cracks tomorrow morning. Also thank you for the stickers, especially the fisting is for Fridays one lol

I hope the "hand jam science box" will develop into some form of crack fingerboard!

You guys GOTTA give more info on that jam box device!

Ya'lls editor is on fire! Really good timing.

@Govanification

2 жыл бұрын

Is Pete still editing these videos??

Schience meter was absolutely needed, should have included "scientific" and all other derivatives. Loved the vid haha

Great vid!

This video was amazing.

This list at the end is incredibly useful, if your half way up a wall looking at a crack and you have this noted in your head it’s a lot less confusing to look at the crack, you find what size fits nicely going down on your mental list, that way your not just hesitantly trying to fit your hand in the crack. I think you solved a lot of issues for regular climbers with this if they chose to learn it.😂 obviously training these jams is a must too. But at least there’s also a list of things to practice for once with cracks :D

Absolutely love the editing and commentary on this 🤣🤣🤣

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

Thank @sessionmedia for the Thursday edits 💪

15:40 is why I love crack climbing content. Keep up the good work!

A really cool thing you guys could possibly do is take a parallel crack and incrementally increase it’s width. By gathering a data point for each one, you can create some nice graphs for each technique that shows you the optimum width

This grip contraption thingy looks a lot like a mouse trap 🤣 What you guys do for science is just admirable😉

This was so cool!

genius idea testing this

Much science, many experiments, so precise, wow.

Would love to see a comparison between bare skin, tape gloves, and the crack gloves!

Nice! Was there anything in the final order of jams that surprised you? Looked like they all came out pretty much as expected.

12:34 he almost fckng shited himself right there man, no way hajahajahajahajahajaha

It would be interesting to see how big the difference is if you hang your measuring "device" on a pull up bar. I think the muscles used are quite different if you pull down not up :) Nice video tho, the amount of weight you guys can pull with jams is kinda insane. Everytime I try it, I remove my skin like a glove without being able to pull me up (: repeatable, reliable and valid aaaand delicious lol

Ok, before my next testing sesh I'm gonna create such a contraption, attach it to a Tindeq progressor and test my jamming peak force, endurance and rate of force in the name of science! Pete's pain tolerance is what makes me even more psyched to do that, gotta check out mine

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

Get it done. An endurance test whereas you keep the science meter above a certain Kilo for as long as possible would be good as well

@Rafa-uj2oi

2 жыл бұрын

@@WideBoyz that sciencing stuff is too complicatedly sciencetific… I’ll need a team of sciencers

“Normally in fist jams you aim for the constriction and it can feel quite good, but in the completely parallel cracks there’s not much expansion in your fist so it can feel pretty slippy. So I’m quite keen, uhh pleased.”

Great video! :) Thanks a lot for the...uh....science.

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching 🤙

Would love to see a comparison with tape gloves too.

Good advertisement for the gloves!

Would’ve love to see both hands for more scientific data to record.

Within the first 15 seconds I was completely hooked

Pete's science! It's over 9000!

Great video but how have you got that crane scale working with that setup?

I feel scienced now, thank you.

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

No problem

Very interesting, thanks! I was just wandering, why dont' you hang the measuring device from a pullup bar and gradually lower yourself in the hips until you slip out? If you can hold your bodyweigh, add some weight on your harness and it will work the same. PS: Even without the wooden planck the force reading should be the same.

Pure science right there!

Jam box looks like my idea for a hand jam trainer with springs on it for a bit of give. Tom Fisting the box for all he's worth ! (Mechanic in me is Hating the pliers, use a frickin wing nut or spanner you spanners 😀)

It'd be interesting to know how much extra force you can pull (or hang off) parallel to the crack, and even side ways off from the crack, compared to how much force you can pulling straight out of it (so kind of in shear rather than in tension).

i wonder where i can purchase such a jam box. didn't find one on the homepage

Was really hoping for at least 14% more science but it was still a pretty good vid

the 'cause that's... science' edit at 7:45 was totally seemless hahaha

When will you be adding the small Crack block to your shop for those of us who can't afford a climbing wall in our apartments? That things looks amazing. I would take that to a gym and hang kettle bells off it or throw it up on a bar and weight it.

Should test tape vs glove and also does chalk actually improve a jam

Legends!

“cause that’s science.” -Pete

What device is that you are using? Looks really handy for mobile crack training and for teaching

Weeellllllcome back ladies and gentlemen to: *Wide Boyz do **_science_*

You should position the jam at a round knee height to be able to use as much power to pull your hand out of the jam as possible - at knee height you can use quads glutes, back and shoulders to pull against the hand. In this video you have the jam just below the waist - so you can pretty much just use your shoulders to pull your hand out - this is much weaker than the other scenario. An even better scenario would be to actually hang from the jam placing it above you - this means you can reduce as much weight from your feet from standing as possible until the jam fails.

Pete’s looks like an excited little kid saying the number after each test 😂

I love science, and crack climbing, this is so great

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

This is the video for you then 🙂

Paddle hand vs. ring lock will depend on the terrain angle. Vertical -> ring lock, steeper -> paddle.

Do weighted hangs like this!

@Tomrandle what size foot are you I'll send you some Tool station footwear before you loose a toe !( actually just a catalogue 😂) Sciency testing foot cracks next ? Pure Tom Randall carpentry skillz coming into play.

I’ve been running up and down an overhung crack boulder problem in the gym for the past week or so and have developed what feels like a deep bruise on the back of my hand that hurts when I release a hard jam. Have you guys experienced that in your crackventures?

You should check how much you can pull from a pull up bar as a reference

Great science.

Science A got you bro? Where are use based a need to try this

Any plans to do this with stacks or other jams???

Love it when pete turned into tomato after every pull

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

Tomato head 🍅

For science you should hang device and jam from a bar and slowly weight them with body till you pop out(If your device gives a max force reading). The direction you are pulling here doesn't seem ergonomic or natural...

very good science

Before I watched, I guessed at which would be strongest based on what feels more "secure" to me - hands, fingers, fists, paddles, cupped hands, ringlocks, and tips descending. I was mainly surprised at how strong the cupped hands were given they always seem to slip for me, and how weak fingers were in comparison. Obviously this was a parallel sided crack without constrictions to take some of the load off the muscles, but do you guys also equate strength with security? For me I'd feel safer trying to flash a long finger crack than cupped or even thin hands any day.

I thought all this time Pete was saying 'cooked hands' as a size reference and then I see the captions saying 'cupped hands' 😄 I don't think there's much difference between the two.

Thanks to this scientific video, I now have a scientific reference to tell people when I say, “Climbing with gloves too much makes you soft”. Invaluable - thank you!

Amazing video! Nice try hard going down :)

What sensor do you use to measure pull strengh? I tried to use a dynamometer but doesn't work too well, it would be better without springs like yours

@WideBoyz

Жыл бұрын

A luggage weigher

“Good, good… science! Good.” 😂

I think this experiment would be better if y'all could rig an over head crack to a dynamometer. The jams are MUCH different when a person can drop their elbow to add torque to a jam... And there's just no way that paddle hands could beat bone-locker finger locks. I've campused finger locks fairly easily but NEVER paddle hands. So I think a revision of this experiment to overhead jamming is needed to be more accurate

Probably get better/more consistent numbers if pulled in a rowing motion, so seated and bolted to the wall/floor rather than standing pulling from the foot. Also won't crack your toes. But good video.

Could have done with the sling being shorter, I think the numbers would have been higher if you was in a better pulling position

This could be a great crossover with howNOTto 👍 your perfect hands is "super good enough"

@WideBoyz

2 жыл бұрын

would we be the tensioners (hanging off jams) in their highline set up...

I have a science question for you to explore. meaty hands, I'm a very lean climber and have very tough skin but boney hands and knuckles, this leads to lots of cuts due to mainly bone touching rock when jamming paddle hands, and my hands due to lack of flesh don't expand very much in cracks when fist jamming or or full jamming. Therefore until recently I've avoided crack. could you do a video looking at different pro climber hand types, and how maybe the possibility that having meatier hands and fingers gives you greater surface area and increased friction? I don't think it's been discussed much before could be good content.

@monkeydo147

2 жыл бұрын

This. My thin bony hands seem like a godsend in thin cracks, but I never seem to get the same utility out of them in “solid” hand cracks as my meaty handed partners.

@dougthebuilder1

2 жыл бұрын

on wider cracks I'm always just left wishing I had a little extra meat.

15:40 hmmmm... What was that, Tom?

What part of the u science tools you to pull above your toes instead of hanging it off the wall and pulling from there giving you a more real world scenario and getting a lot safer for your toes....

You guys could stick some wing nuts, instead of regular nuts to be able to adjust your contraption without having to use pliers.