The grizzly 660 has a service interval of like every 30 hours on valve adjustments . This is because the intake valves are not stainless steel like the exhaust valves . Think about it they get tight because the intake valve face wear really bad. Thus making the clearance get tighter. I installed 3 kibble white black diamond valves and springs and had the seats trued . And this fixed all my problems !

Love you're videos man, I just got my first job and am saving up for a atv! Can't wait to hit the trails!!

There are three marks on the flywheel. Line up on the 3rd one. Not the 1st. Also if you’re here because you just replaced a bent center intake valve, (yes the piston is supposed to have that relief cut in it. It’s not damaged) check your timing chain adjuster. If it’s fully extended you might have a stretched chain/worn guides or failed adjuster. Chains are cheap and must fit properly when tugged on from the top of the cam gear.

I appreciate it Boss! Runs like a champ now

Thank you . Im so appreciative of that trick. Perfect

Ha! Knew thats what this would be. I've had a square drive wood screw in a small piece of wood for a handle in the toolbox for 14 years probably for doing the valves on my 02 Grizzly.

When adjusting the gear selextor? What the best gear to start with? Uk? Pls help

I just replaced the top end. The guy who had it never serviced the coolant and therefore rusted out everything. These valves are so much different from my last adjustment on a Bruin though. It seems like the tappets won't stay within range and they keep moving away from the exhaust valve. I don't think the cam was bad. All the lobes seem to be ok.

Mine was starting really hard just about had the battery dead before she finally wanted to run. Set the intake valves to 6 thousandths fires right up 👌

hey thanks for posting this video. I had a question for you. I have a 2001 yamaha wolverine and was trying to adjust the valve clearance on my atv. The intake valve adjusted easily, but my exhaust valve was extremely tight just like you were showing in this video. I was able to get the jam nut screw loose but the tappet screw I could not get to loosen. Do you have any advice or tips on how to loosen a stuck tappet screw?

@ruyguy8888

8 жыл бұрын

+pattersonbrl Try tapping lightly on the top of the tappet screw while you have a Robertson screw over top of it. to see if it would help loosen it. Also ill suggest to rotate your engine back and fourth, it doesnt sound like you are on TDC (Top dead center) of your piston stroke. If you are and your valve tappets are that tight, you may want to adjust them once the screw is freed then run the ATV for a few miles and adjust them again. If they are getting tight again after that short amount of time, you may need to replace the valve adjusters.

Thanks! I remember my first crack rock, remember kids big rock in the morning little rock at night

nice

So there are 3 valves on the intake side like we see in ur video. Do we adjust apl of em or just the middle one ? I will be adjusting them to the biggest gap 0.15mm

@ruyguy8888

4 жыл бұрын

Yes adjust all three intake valves the same and the two exhaust valves to their limit.

Hey please help. I'm in the process of adjusting valves on my 660 I'm confused in the video you said you used the first mark for TDC but there's 3 marks. on mine the stand alone mark is the last (3rd) mark? which one do I use to adjust the valves?

@ruyguy8888

7 жыл бұрын

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@the02chevyman

7 жыл бұрын

thank you very much! your the man!

Wow 9k What oil do you use? Your lucky to have those screw adjustable rocker arms my Suk KQ has double over head cams with shim on bucket. So you have to get different shims to make the adjustment. ps I have adjusted lots of valves like yours and cursed as the adjustment would always close up as you tighten the lock nut.... So that's a great tip with the no. 2 Robinson .... Why didn't I think of that....damn ....

@ruyguy8888

10 жыл бұрын

My KX250F had those bucket shims as well. and yes they where a pain to adjust. And unless you are actually shown little tricks like this, you just never know what to try. Ive started making my own tools and such because sometimes the things you can buy in stores are not always the best. They do make a valve adjustment tool that does essentually the same thing for $79.99 but i find a worn out 10mm wrench and a 1c robertson works best. As for oil. i run Valvoline 10W40 in the warm seasons and 10W30 in the winter.

@RICHIE_RICH89

5 жыл бұрын

Use dealer oil you don't want synthetic it ruins the clutch because of friction modifiers added

I have 3 timing marks/pointers. The first 2 have a line in the middle connecting them, in an H of sorts. Then a standalone mark pointer. Do you know why and which mark I use? 2005 Yamaha Bruin 350. Thanks for any help

@ruyguy8888

8 жыл бұрын

+RedEyeReviewer Fromt what ive just read you should be using the stand alone mark. Those connected markings are for advancing or retarding your ignition , not to place the engine in Top Dead Center (TDC)

@RedEyeReviewer

8 жыл бұрын

+ruyguy8888 Maybe you can help with my problem. I installed a new carb. (Old one was junk) Set valve clearance. Put a new plug in. I have gas blowing into the airbox anytime the engine is running. It gets worse when you rev it up and it loses power and bogs down then back fires. I turned the air/fuel mix all the way to lean and even adjusted the carb needle all the way down. Still no help. The funny thing is when in neutral it idles and revs up great, but has gas blowing into the airbox. Someone said the intake valve is stuck or bent and that's why fuel is blowing back through the carb. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. 2005 Yamaha Bruin 350. Thanks!

Hi. Dean O here again. Been working on my 03' Yamaha Grizzly 660. Set valves, replaced needle and seat cleaned carb and repacked clutch. { thanks for the help with that} Problem I'm having now it's hard starting???? Once it starts it seems to run ok? What is your thought on this?

@ruyguy8888

7 жыл бұрын

Could be anything for a hard starting issue, however if it started decently before the repairs, then something that you worked on is not correct. Start with what you have already done. How much of a difference does the choke cable make when pulled? is the choke slide sticking? did you align the diaphragm seal up in the carb correctly? how much fuel dumps out of the carb when the drain screw is cracked? is the fuel line twisted? Is the air screw on the carb in the same place? Also, for reassurance i would go ahead and recheck your valve clearances. To ensure you didnt miss anything, or you dont have your clearance numbers reversed. I would look over anything obvious first. Also double check that your carb has been cleaned correctly. A piece of grit as small as 10 microns can lodge itself into a jet opening. For comparison. A human hair is 40 microns in diameter.

@deano5622

7 жыл бұрын

I was thinking the valves also. But it runs really good. Choke cable is working. I replace needle and seat. Carb wasn't that dirty cause I run gas out when not in use. I'm leaning towards the Diaphragm? What is the air setting? Is it one or two turns out? And thanks for your input.

@RICHIE_RICH89

5 жыл бұрын

@@deano5622 carb is what it is I do the setting by engine sound it's more accurate but I've been doing it a long time

How do I know if my Grizzly needs the valves adjusted or top end redone? My 02 660 burns some motor oil

@ruyguy8888

3 ай бұрын

Burnt oil is a good indicator, however it may just be bad valve seals. My opionion is, if your burning excessive oil and need to investigate anyway. its probably worth just rebuilding valves, seals and throwing a set of rings in there. If the cylinder looks good, then is fine, but if not a pistons can be found at decent prices. Dont forget a new wrist pin and bearing.

Will you be going on the fundy atv rally on May 10th ?

@ruyguy8888

10 жыл бұрын

I should be man. Everything on the bike should be buttoned up by then.

@Hubzatving

10 жыл бұрын

Cool ! Might see you there

I have a question: I adjusted the valves on my 2003 Grizzly and know I have gas coming out the over flow. What do you think is wrong? What is the settings for the intake and exhaust.?

@ruyguy8888

7 жыл бұрын

You have gas coming out of your carburetor overflow? Your valving has nothing to do with how gas flows into the float bowl of your carb. Most likely you have a piece of grit stuck somewhere in your float bowl that is not allowing your float needle to shut off its flow of fuel. It could have dislodged while you have been wrenching on your bike. However, one does not have to do with the other. your problem rests in your carb.

@deano5622

7 жыл бұрын

I would like to thank you for your info. I will take a look at this. Also: What did you set the intake and exhaust valves at in thousands? Thanks again. Dean.

@ruyguy8888

7 жыл бұрын

your valve lash should be measured while your engine is cold. (room temperature) Intake: 0.10 ~ 0.15 mm (0.0039 ~ 0.0059 in) Exhaust: 0.15 ~ 0.20 mm (0.0059 ~ 0.0079 in)

@deano5622

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks again.

when should I do this my 660 has only 2500 km i have never done them yet. also do I need to take the plastics off to do the exhaust valves ? I have a rad kit snorkles and all that so it's a pain in the ass to get the front plastics off.

@ruyguy8888

7 жыл бұрын

I always suggest to adjust the valves according to engine hours, rather than kms. I tend to do my valves every 150 engine hours (or once a year) to ensure that things are running at peak efficiency. Contrary to popular belief, small engine valves have a tendency to get tighter over time rather than loosen off. this causes loss of compression and damage could occur to the valve train and piston as a result. To adjust the valves, remove the tank plastics, gas tank and white plastic cover under the tank. There is no need to remove the front plastics, however you will need to get yourself a set of angled feeler gauges if you do not remove the front fenders. The whole procedure takes only an hour and a half Set to: Intake: 0.10 ~ 0.15 mm (0.0039 ~ 0.0059 in) Exhaust: 0.15 ~ 0.20 mm (0.0059 ~ 0.0079 in)

How do know if they need adjustment

@ruyguy8888

Жыл бұрын

its part of your routine maintainence schedule outlined in the operators manual. You will only know if they need adjustment by checking the valve clerances on the maintainence hour table in your owners manual or unless there are starting or running issues.

There is a tool made to do this job. They are very inexpensive and give you more to hold on to compared to a screw

Tip just buy the tool to do it

Hi, Thank you for uploading the video, but... you chose the wrong mark on the wheel below. It is not a first and not second mark - the space between first and second mark is the "ignition filed". Ignition is one the exact teeth on timing, plus 1/2 teeth before ignition teeth is "early ignition" and 1/2 teeth after ignition teeth is "late ignition" - this creates "ignition field". One teeth of the timing, the space between first and second mark is for setting the ignition. Ignition space is not GMP. GMP - the highest position of the piston. There should be one more mark, single slash that looks like "I" letter that you should line up with the mark on the cover. That's the GMP - one single point, not a filed (ignition). GMP - should be around two teeth after the ignition (go right). Yamaha 660 engine rotate counterclockwise. You should turn left for looking of the "I" (GMP) mark. Regards, ps. I know because I did the same mistake!!

You need to turn the engine counter clockwise and its only top dead center on the compression stroke not the intake stroke. Second always use stock yamaha oil never ever use synthetics it destroys clutches because they slipp do to friction modifiers.

Thats crap!! $400 for A-Arm n ball joint?? For something that should only cost you $20... I don't care if it gets 1,000,000 miles that's bad design. What happens when you don't have $400 like me?? Looks like they could have made them with a "RING" that you could press a new ball joint in to.

@ruyguy8888

7 жыл бұрын

Yeah I agree 100%. I think you could look into having the ends of the upper arm manufactured to accept a ring that you could find a tapered ball joint to press in there. The design was done for strength, but its pretty silly when you have to buy a whole new arm to replace a ball joint. Best thing to do is search some 660 forums to see if others have re-welded the top arm into something different.

I suggest you get your act together before turning on the camera

@ruyguy8888

24 күн бұрын

I am actually genuinly curious of your throught process on this comment. At first I laughed, but then was very curious about how you came to your criticism on this 10 year old video of mine. I re-watched the video and other than having little to no camera skills 10 years ago, I explained my meathods of re-adjusting the valves on a Yamaha Grizzly 660. The video analytics from 10 years ago up till the last report I received on this from last week shows an overwhelmingly positive feedback from watchers. I've also gotten a few more shared tips and good feedback from peope in the comment section below. Would you care to elaborate on why you felt so negatively on this video and how i "get my act together" in a more timely manner?