Thank you for checking out my channel! I created this channel to document the restoration, and transition of my 20 year-Old 100 Series Land Cruiser from bone stock to a fully equipped Overlander.
I hope that by sharing my projects and love for Land Cruisers you will have the resources to do the same if you choose!
Business Inquiries: [email protected]
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Jigshore would have looked much nicer
What is the torque specs of inner tie rods, thank you
Im not sure about this. You would need a special tool to torque it… I tried to match what it felt like coming off before folding the locking washer. I would think it’s something moderate and not super tight torque specs. If anyone else knows, please add in the comments!
Excellent video! I've got a 1999 LC with these torsion bars. I forgot to measure my original ride height and got some Dobinsons IMS Extended shocks. Do you know what the measurement should be from wheel to fender if I want to lift the car by 2.5 inches? I've got some OME upper control arms too, and am looking for alignment specs. Any recommendation on caster for mainly on road driving? Thanks in advance!
Great series. I have a 2004 with 234K and same issue. Ride quality is shot. Side note on parts. Looking at a toyota dealership website for parts. OEM Transmission Mount: 12371-50081 is showing not applicable for my VIN. Instead, Trans Mount - Toyota (12371-50180) 2003-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser - 1237150180 is showing as the appropriate part.
Thank you for sharing, looks great. I'm going to follow your lead on my 2004 LC.
Bro you got this figured out. The video, the build. All amazing
Do you live on the Main Line? Very much looks like you're driving around Lower Merion at the start of each of one of your videos!
Fantastic series, and a service to the community.
I know nothing about anime but I know how beautiful you are.❤
Where did you buy?
10% with Code ‘Junglecatt’: bit.ly/3WE98OQ
@@JungleCatt Cool. Thanks.
Thank you very much sir, you are a star 👍💯👋
Thanks for making this video. Would this be easier if it were done at the same time as replacing the brakes, rotors and calipers? Seems like there would be less items in the way. Thanks.
@FLcoachtony. The work you would save by doing those things as well would be the time to takes to lift the car, take the wheel off (needed for calipers) and take then drive flanges off (first step for rotors). That’s probably only a few minutes so don’t feel like you need to to it all at once, but you certainly can. You can reference my wheel bearings video to get a sense of what else is required to replace the rotors. You’ll want to repack and torque the wheel bearings (55mm socket) and maybe replace them while you’re in there. kzread.info/dash/bejne/ioJ_rsOahbHAeKw.htmlsi=pFIyV3g2vAfXeyXh
Something i need to do is slowly replace all the vacuum lines just as preventative thing
And the heater Ts!
@@JungleCatt i took care of that with metal ones!
I read stories about getting the lca budding that’s in the frame looks like you were able to do it without getting all fancy with tools
It’s not that bad. Chisel, 2lb hammer, bushing push pull kit
Good job mate
What are you going to do with the old spoiler? I'm looking for one. Mine broke off.
I tossed it. I broke the mounting hardware when removing it.
I just installed the GAO rear wind deflector this week on my 99LC. It really matches the OEM in look and feel. I also installed their door window trim as mine had begun to crack and show the metal beneath, set of 4 was $120. Thanks for sharing.
It came up in my KZread recommendations, then I lost it. I searched again and again for an hour to find this one again. I'm glad I did. It explains perfectly why my UZJ100 has a bit of a thump to it. I was going to do all the bushings of the suspension and the one from the thumbnail (cause I could see that one was gone) but would have missed those other bushings because I was not knowing that there are Diff bushings as well. Thank you so much! If there are other bushings you think I should check/replace as well please let me know. All the bushings on my LC100 are pretty much gone but just finding them all and figuring out part numbers is the trouble.
Glad it helped! I replaced almost every bushing under my car. Vídeos are all in this playlist: Restore Handling and Ride Quality 100 Series Land Cruiser - Everything You Need to Know kzread.info/head/PLDmcZQkWExY8DLzDY5bQhNrbXx3WXp3_S
This is great. Thanks for going through all this detail. I just got done filming a quick video of my reindexing, mind if I link folks to your video to learn even more?
For sure! Thanks for the support.
Any issues with rubbing with those 285/70/18s ? Been wanting to downsize from 35s on my LC100 to keep a simple wheel / tire setup without having to use spacers.
None at all. The 33inch BFG ATs are a great size for this car. They are 285/70/18s. I’ve been thinking about going up to the BFG ATs in 35. My understanding is that they require 1.25 inch spacers and a taking a hammer to the pinch weld on the front. Is that it or did you need bump stops too?
@@JungleCatt I'm actually running the SCS F5's in a 315/70/16 ! Not sure the size spacer that is needed for the stock 18's but for clearance on 35s the pinch welds need to be flattened and fender liner trimming / removing the cover for the washer reservoir was done.
Thx for the info bud.
Looks great just went to there site see what cost is to ship Australia 🇦🇺 thanks for sharing.
wow that looks amazing! they're sold out for my '02
I’m sure they’ll be back soon. Hot item!
very informative thanks!
You have done such a fine job restoring/upgrading your LC100
Thank you! Appreciate that!
The clunk is so annoying. I’ve greased the drive shafts, replaced the front cv axels, hub flanges, and the front differential as per my mechanics advice. While it’s improved a bit, I still have the clunk. Had another mechanic look at it and he’s advised me to have the transmission rebuilt 😪
Ah man, that’s brutal. The all time 4 wheel drive definitely comes at a bit of a maintenance cost on these cars. When do you get the clunk? Accelerating after coasting or another one? Definitely report back if you have any progress. I’d love to know what it is if not the typical suspects.
@@JungleCatt it still has the clunk accelerating after coasting and when shifting from D to R. The clunk is much less pronounced than before my other repairs but still very noticeable.
Any chance you are doing the starter soon =)
Not planning to at the moment but I’ll keep it in mind. A good place to search for help is the ih8mud.com 100 series forum.
I did this and my clunk was quiet for a while, but ultimately it returned. I have done almost all the repairs you have done over time and still have the clunk.
Have you looked to see if your drive shaft u joints have play in them? The driveshaft splines themselves might be worn out but I doubt that’s it. It’s usually something worn or loose on the front drivetrain between the transfer case and the drive flanges.
Yeah I had big time clunk when braking and accelerating from stops and was due to failing rear u joint. Got it replaced and is way better. Still need to address other clunks :/
Definitely doing this next. Thanks.
Very tidy. Some good ideas there.
I've owned my 100 for many years now, And Your videos are much appreciated
Always great content from your channel. Very informative and great quality. Thanks for explaining the risk of over greasing the drive shafts.
Thank you!
Nice video! I had a very different experience with the front bushing. It took forever to come out. The bushing that was in there had the alignment with the gap front to back, so that's how I put the new one in.
Did you have a 2.5 lb hammer and a chisel? I found that combo to work really well.
shoutout SC! daniel island born and raised
Good work, i appreciate you making this video for us. I really wish you would have included footage of repacking that hub and the final torque down towards the end but i must have been hard to do all that alone. Im just more of a visual learner type but ... Regardless, im still grateful. Subscribed for more.
Of course! Thanks for the feedback! Will keep that in mind in future videos.
Phenomenal video man! Would love to get the plans for this. I have an 80 series so there may be a few different tweaks.
For once I decided to go the easy route, spend a bit more and save time and bought the ironman 4x4 adjustable lower links. While i need to tweak them a bit to get alignment correct, this has easily been the most noticeable improvement i've made to my 99LC. More than UCAs, Lower Ball Joints, new Suspension, new steering rack... the list goes on and on. My truck tracks so much better at higher speeds, feels stable over bumps, and corners more predictably. I had no idea they needed replacement until this vid. Took me 20 mins per side. Cant recommend this upgrade enough! Upper links are next for me.
Ya mine has that little gap too! Thanks for pointing that out.
Have exactly the same issue for a long time already: engine light, rough iddle when in drive. Swapped all coils and plugs. No change. I will check this cable right away and replace it when necessary. Thanks a lot for this video.
Be sure to check all the hoses. Look for loose connections or split ends. Any loss in vacuum can cause that weird idle. Also take a look at your throttle body to make sure it’s clean and working properly. kzread.info/dash/bejne/mGqmmpabodLgdbQ.htmlsi=vrHc48-s52ZoGRDa
And let us know what works!
@@JungleCattmy cables were ok but it appeared my valves are way too tight. After aligning the vales to the correct values all my problems (engine lights, rough iddle, misfires on 1-3-5-7) were solved! I did not know these vales should be aligned every 60k. Most garages hate setting valves as it is a lot of work.
@@Lordoftheflatbush what are valves? Where are they located?
Dude, you made that so simple, I just did all four(doors only) in like 20min. Thank you!! Hardest part was finding where my 10mm wrench disappeared to! Lol😅
Has the muffler lasted the 3.5 years since installing?
2.5 years in so far and no issues! No significant rust either. I added a link to the muffler in the description.
What a shitty video. Let me show you the wrong and laziest way to remove and install trim
my 02 lx470 the handle can't lift up it stuck doesn't move at all would you kindly know anything about it? thanks
Sounds like the release button on the handle itself might be malfunctioning. I would remove the center console and inspect: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ooqTwdaRmaewqag.htmlsi=TtJztqdR59DhFm2P
When you replaced this did you also get the little rectangular rubber pieces 12381-50100 ?
I reused my originals. There’s not a lot of rubber to them, more so a metal plate. So I don’t think they need to be replaced like the mounts do.
Thanks for the video. Is removing the TB just a huge pain ? Seems like removal would allow a better cleaning ? BTW did the diff mounts this week. Wow what a difference!!! Thanks again
I just don’t think removing the whole tb is worth the effort. The TBs on these cars just don’t get that dirty. Plus, you run the risk of breaking something. If your LC is prior to ‘03 (I think) you’ll have a cable that operates the throttle body that you’d have to worry about. Later models have electric TBs (like mine). If you take it off and manipulate the valve with your hand you run the risk of breaking or stripping the gears that move it.
Do you happen to know the diameter and thread pitch of the inner tie rod?
Not sure about that or where to find it. If you call cruiser teq they might have the specs.
Ordered these today. I hope that in my 07 with les miles than my 2005 it makes the groaning at idle go away. I think after watching this that they must be worn. I have a little vibration at stop but I also hear a moan that my 2005 doesn’t have. Thanks again.
Sounds like it could be the mounts. Do you have any mods to the exhaust on the 07? The harmonics on the 100 series are very complex, sometimes aftermarket mufflers don’t come with the dampener which can cause vibrations at low rpms. Even the spare tire being rolled up incorrectly can cause vibrations.
also Great videos
about how much would a shop charge to do this? And how much ride improvement did you feel, 2005 with 295k 2007 with 156K
I’m not sure but considering how long it takes to push out all these bushings and that labor costs upwards of $150 an hour, im sure they would reccomend to replace each control arm with a new control arm assembly (more expensive parts but much faster job). If you’re thinking this job is too much work (don’t blame you), you might consider buying full assemblies and replacing them on your own (probably a 2 hr job). If you’re doubting that effort, then have a shop replace them with full assemblies. To be honest the ride improvement for this one was somewhat minor. Take a look to see what condition yours are in. Put a pry bar on them and see how much play is in the rubber bushings on each end. If they are really worn out or deteriorated you could get a big improvement in quality. I’ve seen 100 series UCAs in pretty bad shape after around 200k, mine weren’t too bad.
how long would you plan to do this for someone who has not performed this particular job. I have access to a lift which may may make it easier? would it make sense to do the brakes and wheel bearings at the same time ?
It was my first time and it took, About 2 hours per side. (I have time estimates in the description of most videos). Breaks and wheel bearings can be done together, especially if you’re replacing the rotors, because you need to take the rotors off to do the wheel bearings anyways. If you are replacing the drive flanges with the new cvs (I’d reccomend it), you can save a little time by doing that alongside wheel bearings because you need to take the drive flange off to get to the wheel bearings. But it’s not that big of a savings, and once you get the drive flange off once it comes off pretty easy the next time, so don’t feel like you have to do it all at once.