Downsides to Lifting Your Land Cruiser and How to Restore Driveability

This is the introductory video to a full video series on how to restore the stock handling and ride quality of your high-mileage 100 Series Land Cruiser.
Subscribe for future videos, this is an ongoing process!
You can find the full video playlist here:
• Restore Handling and R...
Part 1: Differential Bushings
Link: • Driveline Clunk? Repla...
Time: ~ 2hrs
Cost: $275, Ball joint press $50
Difficulty Level: 2/5
Improvements: limits diff movement to fix Park-Drive-Reverse clunk
Part 2: Upper and Lower Front Control Arm Rebuild, Bushings and Ball Joints
Link: • Complete Rebuild: Uppe...
Time: ~ 6 hours per side
Cost: Bushings: $270, Ball joints: $130, Bushing Push-pull kit: $130, Ball joint press:$50
Difficulty Level: 3/5
Improvements: Feels much more solid over bumps and potholes, steering wheel is tighter
Part 3: Inner and Outer Tie Rod end links
Link: • Replace Inner and Oute...
Time: ~ 1 hour per side
Cost: Inner: $125, Outer: $80
Difficulty Level: 2/5
Improvements: Steering wheel no longer shakes / looses connection over bumps
Part 4: Sway Bar Bushings / End Links
Link: • Extended Sway Bar End-...
Time: ~ 1 hour per side
Cost: To Rebuild: $80, To Buy: $260
Difficulty Level: 1/5
Improvements: Slightly less rattling/ looseness over bumps
Part 5: CV Axles and Drive Flanges
Link: • Huge Improvement! Repl...
Time: ~ 2 hours per side
Cost: Axles: $900, Flanges and seals: $100
Difficulty Level: 2/5
Improvements: Smooth acceleration, no more slamming into gear when first pressing the gas
Part 6: Front Wheel Bearings
Link: • Replace Wheel Bearings...
Time: ~ 1 hour per side
Cost: OEM wheel bearings: $180, OEM gaskets and seals: $80
Difficulty Level: 2/5
Improvements: Fixed clicking noise and made front end much quieter, everything a little more stable over bumps.
Part 7: Rear Control Arm Bushings
Link: • Cheapest OEM Route! - ...
Time: ~ 4 hours per side
Cost: OEM bushings: $300, Bushing Push-pull kit: $130
Difficulty Level: 3/5
Improvements: Rear end feels slightly more solid over potholes and a bit more quiet.
Part 8: Engine Mount Bushings
Link: • Back to Luxury: Engine...
Time: ~ 2.5 hours total
Cost: OEM engine and transmission mounts: $270
Difficulty Level: 1/5
Improvements: Eliminated engine vibrations and noise in the cab
Part 9: Greasing the Driveshafts
Link: • The Last “Clunk”: Grea...
Time: 0.5 hours
Cost: ~$30
Difficulty Level: 1/5
Improvements: Elimiated the final traces of the “driveline clunk”
Part 10: Steering Rack Bushings
Coming soon…

Пікірлер: 12

  • @CedarMcKay
    @CedarMcKay2 ай бұрын

    Fantastic series, and a service to the community.

  • @kadekirkendall8839
    @kadekirkendall8839 Жыл бұрын

    This is a great video. I have my first LC 100 being shipped to me as we speak. I’ll be putting this new knowledge to use.

  • @dothiswithme
    @dothiswithme Жыл бұрын

    I hope you do end up doing a DIY for the engine mounts and wheel bearing. I mean there a few videos for the wheel bearings but nothing on the engine mounts. Plus I love your videos!

  • @mspindell1
    @mspindell1 Жыл бұрын

    Great video!

  • @SaxPist0l
    @SaxPist0l Жыл бұрын

    oh wow this is awesome. just bought a 99LC 218k with a 2" lift and mine has all the same driveability issues. CV axles are the only thing new in mine. gonna follow this closely.

  • @FEAR_CB

    @FEAR_CB

    5 ай бұрын

    Any update? I am more or less in the same boat except I have clicking time-bomb CV Axles too lol

  • @SteveBurns80
    @SteveBurns8011 ай бұрын

    Okay, firstly you need to check your front ride height. Measure front wheels on the ground and then jack the front wheels off the ground and re-measure. You need to have at least 65mm or more of front wheel droop from your ride height. Those shocks your using are the same length as factory shocks. So your front end lift is limited to around 1" over the standard factory height. This is often overlooked but is soooo very important for suspension performance and overall longevity of all the front end components.

  • @JungleCatt

    @JungleCatt

    11 ай бұрын

    Agree! Getting the droop right (and balancing the torsion bars) after the lift are crucial. I may do a vídeo on that because I also feel it’s often overlooked. Mine is correct (although the cover pic makes the front lift look huge because I’m on a hill). I got near 2inches with correct droop, which is what OME claims. Even when correctly installed, the lift exacerbates the rate of suspension component wear. Plus for the wear already there from the prior miles, you tend to feel it more with an overall tighter suspension setup.

  • @SteveBurns80

    @SteveBurns80

    11 ай бұрын

    Yeah you may have got 2 inches of lift out of yours, however, that's because your old suspension had sagged. Trust me, you can't get a true 2 inches of front lift from OME shocks, they're the same length as factory shocks. Measuring from centre of hub to the bottom lip of front guards, factory height is =508mm to 510mm depending on variations. The most lift out of factory length shocks, while maintaining correct droop is only around 25 to 30mm. It's total BS that OME are advertising 2 inches of lift. And you're 100% right about not needing a diff drop, it's a complete waste of time and money for a lift under 50mm. Bottom line is, you need longer shocks and upper control arms if you want to maintain correct droop and gain 50+mm of front end lift. Only then, is worth getting a diff drop kit.

  • @JungleCatt

    @JungleCatt

    6 ай бұрын

    Great perspective, thank you for sharing!

  • @deeperKen
    @deeperKen3 күн бұрын

    why are you driving round in circles? 😂

  • @JungleCatt

    @JungleCatt

    3 күн бұрын

    It’s a nice loop! 😂 Have been waiting for someone to notice.