Cool Beans! Thanks for the demo I ordered a set to go w/ your Johnson&Dow mold I got from you some months ago.
@cartjj7 күн бұрын
Love that Big Red One baseball cap on the range!! 16th Infantry - Semper Paratus!
@BasadoBasadowski8 күн бұрын
Do you think it's a good idea to make these charges for inline gear as well?? Between 45 and 80grains BP ? I tried firing a 31 grain sample just like that on a tile and it exploded with a pretty big bang. It seems too strong to me. Loose dust burns differently. I would hate to pull pieces of a rifle barrel out of my head :-) I have a Traditions Vortek Northwest Magnum rifle.
@jamespugh14 күн бұрын
Very cool . Flintlock is only thing i dont have in muzzloader other than a double . Kind been wanting to build my own from parts .
@jamespugh14 күн бұрын
Very cool . Seen post on mewe had watch it . Great performance. Remember shooting pine boards with 44cal rd ball good performance. I know with service charge rd ball go through old car door. Got brother old 44cap in ball we used to shoot on bench need rebuilt for 3 time this time not tobad service rust .
@ReichenbachEsq15 күн бұрын
I think Charlie built your 1858 for point of aim shooting. I remember when he worked on my .54 Sharps Carbine he asked me if I wanted to shoot 6:00 or POA. As an aside, Charlie also recommended a low 40 grain charge for the Sharps (likely for target work) but he did mention the 64 +/- grain combat charge the original used with the .52 bore. I imagine the .54 would require a heavier combat charge.
@scooterc641217 күн бұрын
Thanks buddy! You make it look simple! I’m going to try that
@robertemery526717 күн бұрын
NAVIES WERE ALL IN 36 CALIBER!!!!
@erasgonehistoricalmolds240017 күн бұрын
Yes they were, but now Pietta makes them in .44, authentic or not.
@jochenreichl79620 күн бұрын
I am currently working on getting my own Palmetto Sharps carbine up and running. I bought a few of those bullets, and plan on ordering the mold, too. Have all I need to make linen cartridges and been testing ways of manufacture and sizes to get the perfect cartridge. What was the fix on the breech that was made? Can you discribe?
@erasgonehistoricalmolds240018 күн бұрын
In a nut shell, the breech block face is replaced with a precision machined version that uses a rubber "O" ring to seal the breech. The chamber insert is also replaced or fixed to make sure it can be get a proper gas seal. Larry Flees did my Garret Sharps and my buddies Pedersoli sharps.
@joemolf389421 күн бұрын
Thanks for another history lesson had no idea they made bullets that way. Also pointing out the weight difference between cakes not made using a scale was an eye opener! Thanks Mark
@timsmith916923 күн бұрын
👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🪖
@ericjohnson800123 күн бұрын
Original case-less ammo?
@shagakhan944224 күн бұрын
great video!
@robertrobert792425 күн бұрын
I recently fired J&D flash paper + flash glue cartridges in my Uberti Whitneyville Dragoon that uses the Walker grip frame. The powder charge was 30 grains of 3F. They were very accurate at a rest to a 25 yard target and only shot about 6" high as opposed to 13" high for the same cartridge using round balls. Just wanted to let you know I am very pleased with the J&D .44 performance. Also, The revolver I used has a loading lever mouth that is factory made to fit conical bullets. FYI the nipples on the revolver prefer CCI #10 caps and I lubed the mouth of the cylinders with homemade beeswax, beef tallow, and Olive Oil lube.
@deucedeuce157226 күн бұрын
With your chambers being so tight, you should check your bore. If your chambers are that tight, they're going to make smaller bullets as the lead is shaved off while pressing them in. If your bore is not as small as the chambers, then the bullets will not seal and that can cause all sorts of problems, especially with accuracy, but also with slowly damaging the barrel (would be damaged a lot faster if you were shooting smokeless powder). I don't recall the term, but hot gas escapes through the grooves in the bore and it strips lead from the bullets causing leading and steel from the barrel causing bore damage.
@deucedeuce157226 күн бұрын
You don't have to use force to seat your caps on your nipples? If I don't, the caps won't go off... and even if I do, sometimes I need to hit them twice to go off. It's like 3/5 go off and 2/5 need to be hit again. I think the caps aren't a good fit for the nipples, but they're the one's that the company (and others) recommend. I think a couple of my nipples are out of spec and that's why it's consistently 3/5 that go off. It appears that the taper is too wide at the top edge of where the cap makes contact/seals to the nipple. Either it's too wide there or the entire taper is too wide. I think the entire taper is too wide, but never measured, because how do you accurately measure a taper? It's different along the length and it's not easy to measure the exact spot each time. I'm thinking maybe that I can make a mold of one of the nipples that works and use that as a "no go" gauge and/or a visual inspection gauge if I cut one in half, so I can see how the suspected larger nipples fit inside it.
@fasted846826 күн бұрын
These would work for air pellet rifles. Before melting the barrel out
@deucedeuce157226 күн бұрын
I'm surprised nitrocellulose didn't make them too powerful. I thought that nitrocellulose would the the best choice, but I thought that it would burn too fast and cause far too high pressures... and second to that, I thought that nitrocellulose was invented long after these bullets were ever used. Were they some kind of bullet used after nitrocellulose, but before cartridges? (during that short period of time?)
@fasted846826 күн бұрын
Nitric acid was more expensive than nitrate salts I think 🤔
@deucedeuce157226 күн бұрын
@@fasted8468 Yeah, they only needed to burn down a forest to produce a pound of potassium nitrate... but then they would have to then turn the potassium nitrate into nitric acid to be able to make nitrocellulose. I just didn't think nitrocellulose was invented until after cartridges were invented. I don't know for a fact though.
@deucedeuce157226 күн бұрын
@@fasted8468 I googled it, but got like 4 different answers. Some say 1851, some say 1855, some say 1862 and some say 1863. Even Wikipedia's short answer says 1855 and 1862 in the same google result of "when was nitrocellulose invented". I have no idea when the skin cartridges and hazard cartridges were used though. (I thought I was replying to a comment on skin cartridges that I watched today... but then realized it was the Hazzard cartridges video. I guess it don't matter either way though. I just figured that with the nitrocellulose being used as an adhesive it would burn too fast and too powerful. When nitrocellulose was invented it couldn't be used as gunpowder, because it burned so fast it would blow up and gun they tried to use it in. They had to invent ways to slow down the combustion first.
@robertrobert792425 күн бұрын
Combustible paper cartridges were made using paper that was soaked in a combination of nitric + sulfuric acids during the Civil War Era. It is a dangerous process that should not be done at home. It was the same as modern flash paper. I make mine from flash paper and flash glue and they burn 100% clean without leaving any charred paper in the chambers. They also make 3F black powder burn cleaner. It is a totally different & superior process than soaking coffee filter papers in potassium nitrate and water which is basically an uninformed hoax seen in many YT videos.
@deucedeuce157224 күн бұрын
@@robertrobert7924 Isn't nitrated paper the same as nitrocellulose? ...and if it is nitrocellulose, isn't it too powerful for a black powder rifle? Even a small amount of nitrocellulose can create too much pressure for a black powder gun... and mixing that with black powder, especially surrounding the black powder, because it can cause the black powder to burn much faster too (by igniting it all at once). I know nitrocellulose isn't always the best quality and poor quality nitrocellulose would work... but I wonder if anyone ever made too high quality nitrocellulose and blew up their gun on accident.
@octagongarage350426 күн бұрын
Is Hahn still in business? I tried contacting him with no luck.
@rodiculous946428 күн бұрын
The forbidden vitamins
@gener-all5177Ай бұрын
How the ignition happen??
@gener-all5177Ай бұрын
😅 here is the test. Thanks
@gener-all5177Ай бұрын
I was waiting for the final test 😢, that's a good idea. Best regards from Venezuela.
@wagon9082Ай бұрын
Good video
@MrOldclunkerАй бұрын
I think I can come up with a mold that will work for my .50 muzzleloaders an save me a ton from pellets. Thanks
@iskandartaibАй бұрын
Ah... good old SIG nitrate dope. I suppose nitrocellulose "balsa cement" works too - Ambroid, SIGment or Duco brand. There's also nitrocellulose lacquer sold for finishing furniture. I wonder if replacing some of the water with, say, isopropyl alcohol wouldn't allow quicker drying. I suppose if you need more cartridges quicker you could buy multiple kits.. 😁 My inclination (being a 3D printing enthusiast) would be to design and print my own molds.
@user-um8tq1tz7mАй бұрын
I was forced to make these as foster kid when I turned 7 my family had been making bullets for hodgdon powder for years then they adopted me and three others after adopting 350 other kids I do not miss it one bit
@fasted846826 күн бұрын
Hope you're doing good foster care sucs
@jdzencelowczАй бұрын
I see U had to change your name, CAN'T IMAGINE WHY......stupid bots.... -____-
@napalmholocaust9093Ай бұрын
Try old piano keys for the varnish. It is still around mixed in nail polish and some lacquer paints (copper conductive for sure). The fronts (not the top) of elephant keys is. Only the tops are b/c ivory soaks-up sweat, don't need that were the finger never goes. You'll know if it turns to slop in acetone. I used to put it on leather as dope to fill the pores with something besides oil and wax or tar. 💩 smells amazing after it dries.
@TayloresFishАй бұрын
hell yeah 110% powder mixture lol should be 90g of powder to get the right mixture.
@fasted846826 күн бұрын
I read this at exactly the right moment
@fasted846826 күн бұрын
Also explains why he needs " 6 or 7 percent water"
@kledus420smith813 күн бұрын
Good boom boom @@fasted8468
@mangamaniaciamАй бұрын
Thank you sir for your video!! I've been working on rebuilding an Army San Marco 1851 Colt .36 caliber revolver for a few months now. I've been seriously interested in the various ways of loading my revolver before going to the firing range. I'll definitely be looking into this product you have shown us!!😁👍🇺🇲
@drmachinewerke1Ай бұрын
Appears to be neat but to slow for me . Darn looking at the vid at 11:00 Why not just a 3D " ice cube type " tray you fill and let dry . Place a tooth pick in each cavity for removal .
@pacman10182Ай бұрын
needs a 22 cal version for daisy VL's
@user-rr3px6zq5wАй бұрын
Ive been gluing pyrodex pellets to conicals for years
@justsomeguy9700Ай бұрын
Smart man
@2aguy594Ай бұрын
Sam's Club has condiment cups that would be really good in stead of the Red cup.
@maxasaurus3008Ай бұрын
Great video!
@ReichenbachEsqАй бұрын
I am interested in these 4F paperless cartridges. Mark, designed a kit like this for the .54 Sharps!
@ronrobertson59Ай бұрын
That's cool but too much work I can turn out 50 paper cartridges in the time.
@geneard639Ай бұрын
Nitrocellulose ...yeah, its been around a long time, also kind of explosive by itself when dried. Applied to cellulose/paper it becomes guncotton, which for a while was used to make billiard balls....until they went bang.
@josedorsaith5261Ай бұрын
Ping pong balls are made with that, aren't they?
@the_moxleygeistig1771Ай бұрын
i think, it was playing cards,
@napalmholocaust9093Ай бұрын
It varies, the amount of nitration. Low like billiard balls and piano keys are flammable but do not go bang. It is somewhat different from high flash cotton. There are several types and several grades inside each type.
@DaveAWАй бұрын
Caseless ammo
@peterwright217Ай бұрын
ah, black powder and electric scale?????
@usnchief1339Ай бұрын
Yeah I know! Did you see the sparks flying out of that scale. In all seriousness, at least use a scoop and not pure from the can.
@douglaswoodard3412Ай бұрын
i do wish you had finished with a firring still i like the vid
@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400Ай бұрын
I did! Check the link to the firing video at the end of this one.
@bradleyjohnston6112Ай бұрын
If you want the final mixture 5% by weight it would be 90gr black powder, 5gr water, 5gr dextrin... doesnt seem like alot but it's a 10% differance and might be why you find you need to add more water...
@SB-qm5wgАй бұрын
Well, I didn't even know this was possible! Wow.
@kenibnanak5554Ай бұрын
Interesting.
@markosterman419Ай бұрын
Those of us who shoot wet collodion tintypes, ambrotypes and negatives use plain collodion all the time. It’s easy to buy.
@ironkedАй бұрын
Does it feel like the pellet crushes when loading. Tedious, but heck of a lot easier to load. Cool.
@davinci3259Ай бұрын
Those sold out quick.
@robertstallard7836Ай бұрын
If you look up John Crossen's KZread videos, he provides a link to download the 3d printing files for all the moulds and accessories for free.
@davinci3259Ай бұрын
@@robertstallard7836 I don't have a 3d printer set up to print them. I was just curious about the price so looked it up.
@ClogmongerАй бұрын
@@davinci3259pretty sure you can take those plans and upload them to a 3d printing site and order it as a custom order. Shouldn't cost an arm and a leg these days either.
@smartmeisАй бұрын
duco cement and acetone is what i would prefer. just makes more sense too me, faster drying times and more ignittion
Пікірлер
The pocket musketoon
Cool Beans! Thanks for the demo I ordered a set to go w/ your Johnson&Dow mold I got from you some months ago.
Love that Big Red One baseball cap on the range!! 16th Infantry - Semper Paratus!
Do you think it's a good idea to make these charges for inline gear as well?? Between 45 and 80grains BP ? I tried firing a 31 grain sample just like that on a tile and it exploded with a pretty big bang. It seems too strong to me. Loose dust burns differently. I would hate to pull pieces of a rifle barrel out of my head :-) I have a Traditions Vortek Northwest Magnum rifle.
Very cool . Flintlock is only thing i dont have in muzzloader other than a double . Kind been wanting to build my own from parts .
Very cool . Seen post on mewe had watch it . Great performance. Remember shooting pine boards with 44cal rd ball good performance. I know with service charge rd ball go through old car door. Got brother old 44cap in ball we used to shoot on bench need rebuilt for 3 time this time not tobad service rust .
I think Charlie built your 1858 for point of aim shooting. I remember when he worked on my .54 Sharps Carbine he asked me if I wanted to shoot 6:00 or POA. As an aside, Charlie also recommended a low 40 grain charge for the Sharps (likely for target work) but he did mention the 64 +/- grain combat charge the original used with the .52 bore. I imagine the .54 would require a heavier combat charge.
Thanks buddy! You make it look simple! I’m going to try that
NAVIES WERE ALL IN 36 CALIBER!!!!
Yes they were, but now Pietta makes them in .44, authentic or not.
I am currently working on getting my own Palmetto Sharps carbine up and running. I bought a few of those bullets, and plan on ordering the mold, too. Have all I need to make linen cartridges and been testing ways of manufacture and sizes to get the perfect cartridge. What was the fix on the breech that was made? Can you discribe?
In a nut shell, the breech block face is replaced with a precision machined version that uses a rubber "O" ring to seal the breech. The chamber insert is also replaced or fixed to make sure it can be get a proper gas seal. Larry Flees did my Garret Sharps and my buddies Pedersoli sharps.
Thanks for another history lesson had no idea they made bullets that way. Also pointing out the weight difference between cakes not made using a scale was an eye opener! Thanks Mark
👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🪖
Original case-less ammo?
great video!
I recently fired J&D flash paper + flash glue cartridges in my Uberti Whitneyville Dragoon that uses the Walker grip frame. The powder charge was 30 grains of 3F. They were very accurate at a rest to a 25 yard target and only shot about 6" high as opposed to 13" high for the same cartridge using round balls. Just wanted to let you know I am very pleased with the J&D .44 performance. Also, The revolver I used has a loading lever mouth that is factory made to fit conical bullets. FYI the nipples on the revolver prefer CCI #10 caps and I lubed the mouth of the cylinders with homemade beeswax, beef tallow, and Olive Oil lube.
With your chambers being so tight, you should check your bore. If your chambers are that tight, they're going to make smaller bullets as the lead is shaved off while pressing them in. If your bore is not as small as the chambers, then the bullets will not seal and that can cause all sorts of problems, especially with accuracy, but also with slowly damaging the barrel (would be damaged a lot faster if you were shooting smokeless powder). I don't recall the term, but hot gas escapes through the grooves in the bore and it strips lead from the bullets causing leading and steel from the barrel causing bore damage.
You don't have to use force to seat your caps on your nipples? If I don't, the caps won't go off... and even if I do, sometimes I need to hit them twice to go off. It's like 3/5 go off and 2/5 need to be hit again. I think the caps aren't a good fit for the nipples, but they're the one's that the company (and others) recommend. I think a couple of my nipples are out of spec and that's why it's consistently 3/5 that go off. It appears that the taper is too wide at the top edge of where the cap makes contact/seals to the nipple. Either it's too wide there or the entire taper is too wide. I think the entire taper is too wide, but never measured, because how do you accurately measure a taper? It's different along the length and it's not easy to measure the exact spot each time. I'm thinking maybe that I can make a mold of one of the nipples that works and use that as a "no go" gauge and/or a visual inspection gauge if I cut one in half, so I can see how the suspected larger nipples fit inside it.
These would work for air pellet rifles. Before melting the barrel out
I'm surprised nitrocellulose didn't make them too powerful. I thought that nitrocellulose would the the best choice, but I thought that it would burn too fast and cause far too high pressures... and second to that, I thought that nitrocellulose was invented long after these bullets were ever used. Were they some kind of bullet used after nitrocellulose, but before cartridges? (during that short period of time?)
Nitric acid was more expensive than nitrate salts I think 🤔
@@fasted8468 Yeah, they only needed to burn down a forest to produce a pound of potassium nitrate... but then they would have to then turn the potassium nitrate into nitric acid to be able to make nitrocellulose. I just didn't think nitrocellulose was invented until after cartridges were invented. I don't know for a fact though.
@@fasted8468 I googled it, but got like 4 different answers. Some say 1851, some say 1855, some say 1862 and some say 1863. Even Wikipedia's short answer says 1855 and 1862 in the same google result of "when was nitrocellulose invented". I have no idea when the skin cartridges and hazard cartridges were used though. (I thought I was replying to a comment on skin cartridges that I watched today... but then realized it was the Hazzard cartridges video. I guess it don't matter either way though. I just figured that with the nitrocellulose being used as an adhesive it would burn too fast and too powerful. When nitrocellulose was invented it couldn't be used as gunpowder, because it burned so fast it would blow up and gun they tried to use it in. They had to invent ways to slow down the combustion first.
Combustible paper cartridges were made using paper that was soaked in a combination of nitric + sulfuric acids during the Civil War Era. It is a dangerous process that should not be done at home. It was the same as modern flash paper. I make mine from flash paper and flash glue and they burn 100% clean without leaving any charred paper in the chambers. They also make 3F black powder burn cleaner. It is a totally different & superior process than soaking coffee filter papers in potassium nitrate and water which is basically an uninformed hoax seen in many YT videos.
@@robertrobert7924 Isn't nitrated paper the same as nitrocellulose? ...and if it is nitrocellulose, isn't it too powerful for a black powder rifle? Even a small amount of nitrocellulose can create too much pressure for a black powder gun... and mixing that with black powder, especially surrounding the black powder, because it can cause the black powder to burn much faster too (by igniting it all at once). I know nitrocellulose isn't always the best quality and poor quality nitrocellulose would work... but I wonder if anyone ever made too high quality nitrocellulose and blew up their gun on accident.
Is Hahn still in business? I tried contacting him with no luck.
The forbidden vitamins
How the ignition happen??
😅 here is the test. Thanks
I was waiting for the final test 😢, that's a good idea. Best regards from Venezuela.
Good video
I think I can come up with a mold that will work for my .50 muzzleloaders an save me a ton from pellets. Thanks
Ah... good old SIG nitrate dope. I suppose nitrocellulose "balsa cement" works too - Ambroid, SIGment or Duco brand. There's also nitrocellulose lacquer sold for finishing furniture. I wonder if replacing some of the water with, say, isopropyl alcohol wouldn't allow quicker drying. I suppose if you need more cartridges quicker you could buy multiple kits.. 😁 My inclination (being a 3D printing enthusiast) would be to design and print my own molds.
I was forced to make these as foster kid when I turned 7 my family had been making bullets for hodgdon powder for years then they adopted me and three others after adopting 350 other kids I do not miss it one bit
Hope you're doing good foster care sucs
I see U had to change your name, CAN'T IMAGINE WHY......stupid bots.... -____-
Try old piano keys for the varnish. It is still around mixed in nail polish and some lacquer paints (copper conductive for sure). The fronts (not the top) of elephant keys is. Only the tops are b/c ivory soaks-up sweat, don't need that were the finger never goes. You'll know if it turns to slop in acetone. I used to put it on leather as dope to fill the pores with something besides oil and wax or tar. 💩 smells amazing after it dries.
hell yeah 110% powder mixture lol should be 90g of powder to get the right mixture.
I read this at exactly the right moment
Also explains why he needs " 6 or 7 percent water"
Good boom boom @@fasted8468
Thank you sir for your video!! I've been working on rebuilding an Army San Marco 1851 Colt .36 caliber revolver for a few months now. I've been seriously interested in the various ways of loading my revolver before going to the firing range. I'll definitely be looking into this product you have shown us!!😁👍🇺🇲
Appears to be neat but to slow for me . Darn looking at the vid at 11:00 Why not just a 3D " ice cube type " tray you fill and let dry . Place a tooth pick in each cavity for removal .
needs a 22 cal version for daisy VL's
Ive been gluing pyrodex pellets to conicals for years
Smart man
Sam's Club has condiment cups that would be really good in stead of the Red cup.
Great video!
I am interested in these 4F paperless cartridges. Mark, designed a kit like this for the .54 Sharps!
That's cool but too much work I can turn out 50 paper cartridges in the time.
Nitrocellulose ...yeah, its been around a long time, also kind of explosive by itself when dried. Applied to cellulose/paper it becomes guncotton, which for a while was used to make billiard balls....until they went bang.
Ping pong balls are made with that, aren't they?
i think, it was playing cards,
It varies, the amount of nitration. Low like billiard balls and piano keys are flammable but do not go bang. It is somewhat different from high flash cotton. There are several types and several grades inside each type.
Caseless ammo
ah, black powder and electric scale?????
Yeah I know! Did you see the sparks flying out of that scale. In all seriousness, at least use a scoop and not pure from the can.
i do wish you had finished with a firring still i like the vid
I did! Check the link to the firing video at the end of this one.
If you want the final mixture 5% by weight it would be 90gr black powder, 5gr water, 5gr dextrin... doesnt seem like alot but it's a 10% differance and might be why you find you need to add more water...
Well, I didn't even know this was possible! Wow.
Interesting.
Those of us who shoot wet collodion tintypes, ambrotypes and negatives use plain collodion all the time. It’s easy to buy.
Does it feel like the pellet crushes when loading. Tedious, but heck of a lot easier to load. Cool.
Those sold out quick.
If you look up John Crossen's KZread videos, he provides a link to download the 3d printing files for all the moulds and accessories for free.
@@robertstallard7836 I don't have a 3d printer set up to print them. I was just curious about the price so looked it up.
@@davinci3259pretty sure you can take those plans and upload them to a 3d printing site and order it as a custom order. Shouldn't cost an arm and a leg these days either.
duco cement and acetone is what i would prefer. just makes more sense too me, faster drying times and more ignittion