I'm Eric Snow and I'm here to help you work on and play with your Classic American Car. I'm a drag Racer and Classic Car enthusiast with love of all kinds of cars. I'll show you the ins and outs and the repairs and modifications as well as bring you tools that have helped me along the way. I want to help you save time and money so that you can spend the money where it really matters and not take away from your family.
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I know a guy that you can get a rear from. Just sayin.
I know that guy too!
WE'RE DOOMED! Sorry to hear
Not the end of the world, out of the ashes of broken parts will rise a Phoenix of a better rear end!
Looks like it's time for a 9inch ;)
You already know, but there's something good coming!
Cost difference
About $30.
I did a few aluminum carbs in simple green, they seemed to get darker gray and if in too long, they leave a white powdered residue as they dry. Trying pinesol cleaner next time.
I replaced my auto zone Ignition Module on my El Camino 3 times in 12 months. I think I will try this next, Im tried of getting stranded lol
The MSD module has been absolutely trouble-free in that Monte Carlo since I put it in. I'm finding that Napa is a better source for OE style electrical components, but that's no guarantee they'll live long. I've had new Napa components fail far too early. The MSD is a great choice and definitely worth the money and peace of mind to never mess with it again.
@@SnowFamilyRacing Think you sold me. Will give it a shot. I like how the harness and module are all in one on the MSD.
It's easy and just goes in. It's got instructions, and you've got this video to help.
I've got an H.E.I. on my 1973 Chef K20. It was installed by a super old school mechanic in the San Fernando Valley of Los Angeles, back in (oh) 2008. It made that truck run so well, for so long. I needed to sell the truck a few years ago to get it off the property, and my dad put a new battery in it, but he reversed polarity (the wires themselves were reverse color-coded) bummer. Hasn't started since. I don't know the vintage of the HEI as it is not stock. From watching your video I think I'm going to just pull out the module and take it over to Auto-zone. I hope they can match something up. You didn't need to check the timing after pulling the cap?
I might on my race car, not on this one. There's a locating detent that the cap fits into so that that only goes on in one orientation. The common module is the 4 pin for non computer controlled engines. There's a 7 and 9 pin variant for the computer controlled models. For the parts store people, just about any Chevy V8 car or truck used the same part. My go-to for stuff like this is a 78 Monte Carlo with a 350. That gets me the common things like a module.
Honestly super solid video. Thanks for sharing.
This is a great video.
Where do you buy these at there so many I just don't know what brand to get.
If you go to my website, I've got a link and a 10% discount code for Topdon jump packs. These are professional tools, not some junk off Amazon. The best part is they don't come at a crazy price tag.
I picked up a 1980 regal with a 4.3 that sat for 20 years. No spark even after replacing the ignition module. Any recommendations?
I'd recommend this video I made. This one walks you through what to verify from the battery to the distributor. You'll want to check for power all along the way until you find the issue. kzread.info/dash/bejne/dp59qs1pc5W9c8o.html
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If I had a garage with 40 foot vaulted ceilings that's bigger than my house, should I even care? Your flexing your garage. It's like the guy with cars who shows his Lamborghini when his viewers don't but with a garage. I can prob fit 2-3 of my houses in there
It's a 30x30 with a 12 foot wall, no I'm not flexing anything. I have old stuff, 2 Gbodies, a '56 Olds 88, nothing newer than 2006. I lucked into this one, and I'm making it work for me. I'm a machinist by trade, and I value making stuff from raw stock. Thanks for your comment. If you want to see flex, I'm not your guy.
I’m going in! I can’t imagine the crap that’s in there. However I would hang onto those carb gaskets … you never know. And there in lies the problem. Nut bolts clips speial wire ends, tools cut or bent for a specific job It cost’s nothing to own something you probably willnever use. But if you or even better a work mate comes across that one application that needs some of your junk, You are the Hero.
I've got a storages place to dump the weird stuff, and things that still have life. I know I packed stuff in a hurry before I moved here, in surprised what I've held on to! More organization required!
Does anyone know the thread pitch on the roller the m6 is to small and the m7 is to big
I don't off the top of my head. That would put it somewhere around the 1/4" range.
By the way...make sure you use the low resistance rotor button. If your car sees regular street or highway duty, the stock rotor button WILL melt the distributor cap.
Good point, especially with a higher powered coil. MSD does have some guidance on which button to use in what application.
@@SnowFamilyRacing First time I dismissed the guidance, never again.
The reason there is a 594' and 1254' foot clocks is because your mile per hour readings are not taken from a radar gun, they are a mathematical figure of time and distance. Your speed is figured from a cone to cone measurement of how many seconds it took you to travel 66 feet, it just happens that Flying H has the ability to print an elapsed time to those points where other tracks don't bother with those numbers. The 594' cone starts your 1/8 mile MPH and the 660' stops it, the same applies to the 1254' and the 1320' for your 1/4 mile MPH.
I was under the impression that the cones were 60' short as opposed to 66'. It's not wildly useful data in most circumstances. I could see an aggressive top end driver could use those as an extra data point. I did notice that those times were not listed on last night's time slips. It would be nice to get the left lanes 330' times working!
Eric you are awesome with your video's .Great info as always.You deserve way more views than you get.Subbed for life Amigo. Many thanks
Thank you very much! I appreciate it! There will be much more coming soon!
@@SnowFamilyRacing look forward to it Eric.Cheers and many thanks.
How did you get the cv axle seal on?
The seal gets driven into the aluminum housing of the transmission. I'm not quite sure what you are asking.
Thank you for this information. Going thru same issue.
You're welcome! You and several others on different videos all had a similar question, I figured it was a great time to do it!
@@SnowFamilyRacing do you have any videos on rocker arm adjustments? Sbc V8
Not yet. I probably should run the valves on my El Camino, I haven't done that in a while. It's a hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifter. It's still worth looking at since that engine gets beat on pretty hard.
Nice work Eric. Most people don't think about an alternator overcharging but that can cause several issues. Keep up the great work.
Thanks! Sometimes, it's things like that that can cause all sorts of issues.
❤Nice check list!
Thanks! I want to make it easier to learn and keep track of electrical troubleshooting.
Hi so my husband wants me to ask why this keeps going out we know what this part is we have changed it out many time but do not know why it keeps going out also changed out the whole distributor did not change anything sill goes out we order 2 at a time have ordered cheap and expensive no difference please help if you can
There are a few reasons. First, there's a quality problem with where the current off the shelf parts are made. I've had the best luck with Napa for off the shelf electrical parts. Next, you may have a voltage issue like the alternator may be putting out too much voltage. The engine may also have a grounding issue. Check both power and ground. Lastly, I've got another video on my channel about swapping to the MSD ignition module. I've done that on several cars and haven't had to mess with them again. Between all of those things, you should find an answer.
Keep up the good work man. I appreciate your concise style.
Glad to help! Thanks for the good words. I've got more coming!
Squirrel! This is the trove of knowledge we have been needing! Thank you 😊
The spider was huge!
Without Data... you're just a clown with an opinion
Good information
Thanks! Some good Dr with a Yellow 1964 Buick Special introduced it to me! Now I use it to play the game better! Hmmm... bracket racing a hopped up Nailhead... Could be fun!
I have an 85 Chevy pickup with an hei. A while ago, I went to start it and had no spark. I grounded plugs and had nothing. I changed out the cap, rotor and coil and still had nothing. Randomly one day it fired back up and I drove it for a couple days. Then all of a sudden, it died on me and I had the same issue again. I believe that this is the issue, but this is my first vehicle that I have ever worked on. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Intermittent issues are likely caused by loose connections. You need a wiring diagram and start chasing wires to ensure you have good connections everywhere. If the steering column is loose at the tilt mechanism, that can push on the ignition switch funny and cause problems. I've got a video about reading wiring diagrams, that video also has a link to an electrical diagnostic checklist. I've also got plans for several electrical diagnostic and troubleshooting videos. Stay tuned!
Here's a link to the video I did about reading wiring diagrams. kzread.info/dash/bejne/g4GDxrJ-c5Cpnqw.html
Hey, I have a passenger side mirror I want to install. Looking at your project, is the mirror bolted to the skin?
This one is bolted through the skin. I don't know if passenger side mirrors were an option on these. If you marked it all out and made sure everything was properly rust proofed, I don't see why you couldn't to that.
How bout the door latch? Your video didn't show how it disconnects
The handle and it's push button stay with the skin. There's nothing to undo, it pulls away. It's amazing that it works, but it does!
Great video thanks.
You're welcome!
I just tripping out about the thermoquad Chrysler carburetor. Some people liked them?
That's actually a Street Demon carb made by Demon. It's kinda thermoquad, kinda Edelbrock, kinda weird. It works well enough, and I haven't had to mess with the tune in ages. I set it and forgot it. At the time, the car needed a carb faster than I could piece together a Qjet from my stash. Deep down, I'm a Qjet guy.
Cool 😎 I will look into it.
I have a 94 gmc Sonoma. I’ve replaced the distributor cap and rotor, the fuel filter, and the coil and the battery, I’m gonna a try this and I hope it will resolve my issue. Car turns over but no crank distributor gets no arc/power
That's likely a hall effect style distributor on the TBI GM engines. I don't have any resources on those.
i just bought one figuting out its bad
Hey man, great job. Would you still use the 1" master if you had discs all around?
I do not know. Given how quickly I heard back from Wilwood, I'd reach out to them and ask.
I have a 1987 Ls monte carlo that has been stolen and after I got it back the transmission is weird? The reverse is gone and goes forward in neutral. Park feels like it wants take off? Do you happen to ever hear of this situation? V8 305 engine.
First, you'll want to check to make sure all the detects are lined up correctly. Put the shifter in park and make sure that the transmission is correctly in park, then do the same with low. Beyond that, I don't have any idea without putting my hands on it. Check the transmission fluid for twinkly metal or excessive clutch material, as well as if the fluid is burned. Those may give clues.
@@SnowFamilyRacing thank you sir for all that you show us !
Thanks! I do what I can.
Cool. I got a nice, self restored post vice for my art smithing!
This crusty one may get wire wheeled, painted, greased and bolted back down. I've learned that it may be nice to have a bigger vise, a smaller one still has plenty of usefulness.
@@SnowFamilyRacing oh they do! I just broke one in like it beating on it before. I needed the post lol!
My car started running bad. Then a fuse burned up for the ignition. I traced a solid black wire from my MSD 7AL to find the nut holding the wire to ground was off and the black ground wire was against the body. So once I put a new nut on it. Boom, started and running fine.
Power, ground and easy stuff are always the first to check!
36 for 2 axles sounds like an Amazon deal have u replaced them again yet lol
Nope! Still in the car and doing their thing. My dad drives this car daily and has had no problems with them. I believe I got these axles from RockAuto.com. It's been awhile since I did this!
"Lefty Lucy" LOL
More accurately, Lefty Loosey!
I know this is old but i just got one for my truck and it came with 2 small o rings that i cant figure out what they are for
Those may be extra o rings for the hydraulic lines from the power steering pump.
@@SnowFamilyRacing thank you
You're welcome!
Had 1 and will not own another, blew the coil apart during a 4.5hr car drive (i drove locally never had a problem), could never get the rev limiter to work. The coil ordeal cost me a tow bill and issues at 9:00 pm. If you run one, i recommend keeping a coil, a good stock module and harness in the car as back up. I had to round this up on the road next day. Granted this was when msd was msd, maybe things got better
Honestly, this is the first catastrophic failure of this that I've heard. I've had literally hundreds of drag strip passes and many street miles with one of these.
The MSD is made in China. Do what the rest of us old timers do and stick with one authentic original "lead based" GM module for the HEI and one for the glove box. It sucks, I only watched this for info on the rev limiter but I guess that was to much work for this guy...
Not everyone has access to a dwindling stack of NOS original modules. The sad fact is that just about everything, especially electronic in naturen is made overseas. I didn't hook up the Rev limiter for 2 reasons, I was under a time crunch, and it wasn't going to be needed on this car. It's not my car, and it never sees any real RPM unless I'm the one driving it. It's done at around 4500, and it'll hit valve float before it goes high enough to hurt anything. The instructions are pretty clear about how to set it up.
Any recommendations for purchasing a trunk lock? I can't find the correct model for the tri shield emblem.
I don't have a preferred source. Best Offer Counts would probably be a good source to talk to for one.
Awesome video. I was wondering how to chang it from computer controlled to the 4 pin mechanical style? Please help thanks
You will need to replace the distributor completely as the computer controlled one does not have a mechanical advance. Any basic HEI from Summit or Jegs would work.
Thank you
cool thing! e
Getting ready to do the carb and prayed I would find someone that made a video. You're the man. Very helpful.
One thing I'm finding with this one is that the fuel "pump" is giving me fits. It's vacuum operated. The carb itself has been great, I'm currently chasing an annoying vacuum leak that gives me drivability issues. Just something to put on your radar as a possible source if a thorough rebuild still leaves something on the table. Going through the carb is never a bad idea!
Very good video!
Thanks!
Thank you for the video! I have an ‘84 Caprice that’s running a bit rough at idle. I was hoping your video would show the actual procedure of removing the ICM. Did you shoot video of that?
It's got 2 screws and an electrical connector on each end, and it's under the advance mechanism under the rotor. There wasn't a good way to get my hands and camera back there. It's really easy. All of the parts come off easily.