I'm an IT professional and formerly an electronics technician with an interest in vintage (old) computers and electronics.
I'm not a professional KZreadr, I started the channel just to share videos with friends and family and it grew as I got more into the retrocomputing community.
My videos are mostly focused on my hobbies of restoring 8 bit computers of my youth and occasionally maybe some vintage Hi-Fi audio gear.
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I just made a short video, installing a new old stock ribbon in my 43. kzread.info/dash/bejne/lqCuwdmngNeqf8o.html
kzread.info_0p08bFQHXE?si=xiLacaUb4V51IMN4
I was 8 years old in 1979 when my dad brought home a brand-new 2001-8. Even though we got the C64 a few years later, Dad never stopped tinkering with the PET, and it lasted until he passed in '02. He too, was an engineer, and I owe him and that little machine a whole lot. Thanks for this....
where can i find that kind of foam anti-vibration tape? do you know what it's called?
The old tape that I removed? No idea. It's much thinner than any weather striping tape I've seen.
Bitfunx
Nice video!. I have the Commodore PET 2001 with the black and white monitor. It has been working fine until recently. Now the boot up screen where it says "***COMMODORE BASIC***, 7167 BYTES FREE, READY" the words/letters/numbers are broken up as if a line space has been printed on the screen. So it will be the top parts of the letter, a space, the middle parts of the letters, a space, the bottom parts of the letters. Hope that makes sense! Any ideas?
I have just restored a model 43. I am wondering where to get the 11 inch wide tractor feed paper. Thanks.
Yeah, I found it on Amazon. made by Alliance, sold by Impreso, mfr part # 99388. "Alliance Continuous Computer Paper 12" x 8-1/2"
@@HutchCA Excellent! Thanks!
Any of the drives better than others? Japan vs Taiwan?
The first PC I ever used was an Apple II Plus my first day of high school in 1982. I was hooked. Although at home I had all Commodore. Be sure to get the new Yellowstone card for the IIe.
I love !!! Thanks for sharing .( Me encanta !!! Gracias por compartir )
GREAT Video!!! TY for the PET content!
I have a black C2N with a red light on the right side. This lights up when you press load. Is this a new variant or after market?
My first computer experience of any kind (that I remember) is using a college PDP-11 on VT-100/102 terminals. They also had VT-52s with the wacky buzzer instead of the speaker, and some other brand/model I can't remember-- black and metal... Olivetti maybe?
Hey Chuck. Didn't realize you had a video on this, found it while I was googling when my pidp-11 died (sd card corrupted after multiple power outages - important note, back up the sd card, it's a pain to make a new one unless you use a pi 4 as the new image is for that). Anyway, the base... what did you use for that.. did you make something different or is that some kind of sticker or something around the wood?
Just black spraypaint over the included wooden base. I printed the 'digital' image, "laminated' it with packing tape and stuck it to the base with double sided tape. I did make an image of the SD card not long ago.
How do you check power from the psu on a PET with a multimeter?
I have another video on that subject. ( kzread.info/dash/bejne/l4h7u62uoLiqgLw.html )
@@HutchCA Lovely. Thank you so much. I have a dead monitor on my 8296-D 🙏
Wow ❤❤
\o/ Jameco!
Thanks for uploading this video
Thank you for this! PDP-11 was my first exposure to general purpose computing. And the memories are still strong. :)
Apparently the company that produced that voltage regulator is no longer in business. The website is a dead link. The cooler temperature made that mod well worth the work.
I'm getting a 500 internal server error, but google still has them in search results. Hopefully it's a temporary web site problem. www.google.com/search?q=ezsbc+5v+regulator
@@HutchCA Yeah, that's what I'm getting too. I'll try it later this week. Thanks for checking on that. I appreciate it.
That link is dead. Is there no similar replacement for it? It doesn't even need to have that shape. Or the gerber files and a BOM?
What the hell is between the DI and D0? I don't have an underscore on my keyboard.
A shortcut for the directory command is diR di+shift-R In this case followed by D0 (D+Zero) for disk 0
I had one on my Commodore 16!
What caused the cascading failure? Replacing the diode and cap, followed by resistors seemed related to another issue. If the diode has failed, do you suggest replacing all at once? Diode - cap - resistors?
I'm pretty sure the bad cap caused the diode failure. The resistor failure is unrelated and quite common on these boards.
What can you do with it? Apart from the different OS available is there any applications to run?
There are some applications included in the different OS' but for me it's mostly a display item.
Excellent video. Wish I'd seen this before I fixed my 4032 12" monitor board. I ended up verifying all of the waveforms from the service manual and changing all the electrolytic caps before finally finding the R752/R753 resistors. If I ever repair one again that's the first thing I'll try!
Promo`SM 👏
Have you noticed input delay between the converters?
I haven't tested. There may be some but nothing I've noticed.
Após usar realizar o processo de retrobright basta apenas utilizar spray de verniz incolor fosco com proteção UV, o amarelado não volta mais, é necessário realizar 3 aplicações para criar uma camada de verniz forte.
Great video! really helpful - I had two IC’s go faulty in my Apple II drive . The MC3470 - floppy drive read amp & 74LS125 - Quad 3 stage buffer
Can you still find these anywhere, I have been looking for the Vic 20 edition?
Amazon UK, perhaps. If not there then they are probably sold out. Was meant to be a limited item. 'The C64' has the same features but of course doesn't look like a VIC20
I looked, have the C64 already but really like the look of this one, and the controller, I'm also looking for an American edition of the Atari 2600+ that just came out, can only find it in the UK
Very very nice collection... I want a SuperPET now ;)
I've always dreamed of having a VT-100! For me, they are THE terminal. I'm a little disappointed that the PiDP comes up with a Debian login prompt, I'd like to to just run the emulator on the console right away so you're straight in with an RSTS (or whatever) login prompt right from the get-go.
So if the signals on the cassette port are theoretically identical on the top and bottom, why not connect them? At least on the connector/plug? Is there any reason to leave those open?
The datassette connectors only have contacts on one side for some reason <kzread.info/dash/bejne/lImfmNOOdrutprg.html> The power tap board on this PET Companion didn't use both sides since the assumption was that the signals were the same on both sides.
I'm finally trying to fix the keyboard on my 2001N (I've owned it for 3-4 years now) so I thought I'd refresh my memory by watching this again :) Thanks for making it.
How did you shoot these without getting any screen reflections? They look awesome.
Oh wow, nice and really OLD 2001!
So, how are you putting 75 Ohms on it? It's not clear what you're connecting there.
I had to use a series of adapters to connect a 75 ohm F-type terminator
@@HutchCA Cool, I happen to have a bag of 75-ohm BNC terminal connectors, so I'll use those
@@MichaelDoornbos leftovers from the 10-base-2 networking days?
@@HutchCA equipment from my VIC-20 6560/1 FPGA project.
22:58 I got that. Radar O'reilly.
Nice video (yours and the device output!) 😀
Awesome Commodore PET Companion addendum. This will help a lot of people with Commodore PET 2001 chiclet keyboard models.
Thanks for the follow-up video and figuring out the chicklet PET issue. Thank you for sharing!
Si, le schede di alcuni di questi PET non hanno i collegamenti sulla parte superiore della MB al DATASETTE.. sul mio infatti hanno optato per collegarli con degli spezzoni di filo. Ho costruito anche io una basetta sperimentale per avere un uscita RCA e poter riparare la macchina senza danneggiare il monitor. Ottimo video 👏👏
Why wouldn't it have NTSC output?
It probably was due to cost and simplicity. The clock is 8Mhz which is needed for the video and then divided down to 1MHz for the CPU. It's doubled to 16Mhz for the 80 column PETs since they have twice the pixels per line. Getting the sync signals to exactly 15.734 kHz and 60Hz would have complicated the design and since they had their own monitor, it wasn't necessary. They got pretty close at 15.625kHz and 60.09615Hz
Thank you for serving.
At about 20:00 you mention to disconnect the internal monitor of 12" PETs since it won't accept a 15 kHz horizontal frequency. However, my PETSTRIP-game which was originally for 2001 PETs changes the CRTC-registers of 4032 (and 8032) PETs to PET 2001--like values and as such displays a 15 kHz signal. The monitors of both my testers did not blow up and displayed the game just fine (4032 and two 8296). However the 4032-person mentioned some "shimmering" of the image. I would assume the monitor will just not display a picture if you go out of the displayable spectrum.
The 12" inch monitor on the PET works on 20Khz and not 15. You could leave the monitor connected, however, it won't work properly and may damage the internal monitor. It is recommended not to have it connected, but if you use use at your own risk
@@RudysRetroIntel Yes, I realize the CRTC-PETs and the monitors work originally at 20 Khz. Just saying that they will display 15 Khz fine (I could search for the videos my tester sent me). I guess one would have to look at the original monitor manufacturer and what their actual display-ranges (or reccommendations) are. I know that I treated my 1901 monitor with very wild frequencies over the years with the VDC-chip of my C128 and that has not broken down because of that. Certainly a topic to be investigated if wrong frequencies can actually damage the monitor - smelling "Killer Poke" here 🙂
Something else to consider is if the monitors have been recapped or not which could be a factor if things go boom or not. Original 40+ year old capacitors could get pushed over the limit and cause all sorts of issues. As both Rudy and Chuck have said in previous comments, use at your own risk, especially with how hard it's becoming to find Commodore PET computers in nice looking and working condition after so many years.
I asked Steve Gray about this and he said that it will sync to 15KHz as he has seen during testing. I would still recommend users disconnect the internal monitor just as a precaution, unless they need to have both screens active.
Man, that looks way better than my homebrew solution.
It is pretty awesome for sure! Rudy's project was a 12 month +/- work in progress with 7 board revisions, the one Chuck showing being the 7th. It's technically a homebrew solution as well, however Rudy and I along with Chuck and a few others put a ton of time into testing, manual updates, etc. It's not perfect, but works really well and does what it was originally created for.
I've been interested in this but I have a "chiclet" 2001 and since yours didn't work, I think I'll wait. Please do a follow-up if you can determine why yours didn't work, and whether the board needs a mod or if your PET is having an issue.
It should work on your PET 2001 chiclet keyboard model. Dave Bradley tested it with his PET 2001 chiclet. I'm thinking Chuck has some sort of issue with his PET and will get it sorted. Chuck knows his stuff when it comes to PET computers for sure!
I'll do some checking next weekend but my PET is an early Rev and has had some problems off and on. All the same signals are needed for the RGB2HDMI connection and the timings had to be the same or close for the profile to work. Probably as simple as a low level on one of the signals due to a bad connection on the user port.
I figured out the problem and it works fine on my Chicklet PET. It just wasn't getting power because my early 320081 board doesn't have power or signals on the top side of the tape port connector. I just had to move the power tap wire to the bottom side and it works fine. This would only be a problem on the 1977 320081 board with Synertek ROMs and 6550 RAM. I can't connect external datasettes to it for the same reason.
@@HutchCA Thanks for checking this out! I would have had the same problem. 6 connection fingers on top of J3 that go to nothing. Assuming that all models have the power available on the back side, so they should definitely re-wire the connector in production.
Looks like a very handy board! I wonder if the too-high voltage on the scope trace is due to the circuit expecting a 75Ω terminating resistor to ground on its output, such as you'd find with a TV/monitor's composite input?
Good catch. This is probably true since the signal was not loaded at all.
I did some extra testing tonight and my scope has the option for 50 ohm termination which brought the signal down to ~650mV, so I'd guess 75 ohms would put it right around 1v pk-pk. I'll try to adapt a 75 ohm terminator or a combination or resistors to demo this for an addendum video.
See the Addendum video for corrections kzread.info/dash/bejne/nqJ5rpOTobOoeLg.html For those wondering, NTSC frequencies should be 60Hz Vertical (or 59.94Hz for Color), and 15.734 kHz horizontal. The PET derives it's horizontal frequency from the 8MHz clock, divided by 512, so 15.625kHz, which is actually the PAL horizontal frequency. The PET derives it's vertical frequency from 260 horizontal lines which comes out to 60.09615Hz, so it's just a bit faster than NTSC.
Does the maker have a webstore? Or do does one simply email them?
Apart from WoC, I don't know. Check with @RudysRetroIntel on his channel.
At this time, there is no web store. However, that may change in Jan 2024