Oh, and I almost forgot, which model of Raspberry Pi did you go with, and how well did it perform, would you recommend the same model, or perhaps go with a newer, beefier version? Thanks. :-)
@RolohaunКүн бұрын
@@lynwooddillman944 pi 3 is totally fine
@lynwooddillman944Күн бұрын
Hi, Hey, I was so happy to find this video series, as this is exactly what I was wanting to do with the makerbot replicator 5th gen I picked up recently. I have most of the parts purchased, and I've started 3D printing the files on github, but I, like another viewer, didn't hear you mention what exactly you did for the power supply?? Did you tap into the original, or just add one? Did it end up being 12 or 24 volt? I know its an old video, and you no longer have the printer, but any help you can provide is much appreciated. I've subscribed to your channel, and I look forward to sifting through all your old videos.. :-)
@RolohaunКүн бұрын
original 24v I believe
@Anasi13793 күн бұрын
This is such a BAMF move to have it printing right beside you as you intro it. Bro IDK if I have the chops to build this but by god ima try. SO FREAKING COOL.
@CalebRaes-ek6ul4 күн бұрын
Are all the T-nuts and slide-in Nuts for the M5 Hardware, or are some m3 ones also required?
@Rolohaun4 күн бұрын
@@CalebRaes-ek6ul all m5 t nuts
@elere99326 күн бұрын
Amazing proyect, I plan on build it to upgrade the crappy easythreed K9 of my kid. is there any way to upgrade the bed? or a 2024 upgrade version of this?
@Rolohaun4 күн бұрын
there are some 50mm latger ones being built in my discord
@frankdearr27729 күн бұрын
Great topic, thanks
@somebody352410 күн бұрын
What a coincidence! I am currently also developing a corexy 3d printer that uses v-wheels for z similar to your design but without the springs. I am just using using eccentric nuts for tensioning.
@whatidssucks10 күн бұрын
i see why its called rook
@guillermiot10 күн бұрын
you have the orca profile to share? thanks
@Rolohaun7 күн бұрын
I just used the default orca profile
@stevegrimeszz11 күн бұрын
stl file????
@Rolohaun11 күн бұрын
github.com/rolohaun/Replicator5-Klipper
@stevegrimeszz11 күн бұрын
im just seeing this now. we bought a replicator thinking it was great... until it wasnt. im going to the mods you did, hopfully fixing the printer. thank you, your a saint.
@19janiboy9613 күн бұрын
I'm thinking about designing a uncoated FR4 PCB heated buildplate. Anyone interested?
@Rolohaun12 күн бұрын
I have used G10 it works well, same as FR4 basically.
@19janiboy9612 күн бұрын
@@Rolohaun Nice :) I just see the benefit in having the heater being fused to the printbed by making one the sides being exposed and having them be manufactured by a PCB service. Flatness should be within reason and the price very low. BTW I'm gonna min max your build and report back 2 you cheerio :)
@PulseVideoProduction15 күн бұрын
Dang. Why didn't I see these videos about two days ago. I am in the middle of printing my parts for the rook 2020 scalable.
@Rolohaun15 күн бұрын
Rook 2020 scalable is a awesome printer you will like it
@Texastoo217 күн бұрын
Very strange that this command creates a runaway. The documentation states: The verify_heater extruder command in Klipper is used to check whether the extruder (hotend) is heating up at the expected rate during the printing process. It monitors the temperature increase and ensures it meets the desired rate. If the extruder heats too slowly, you’ll receive an error message. You can adjust parameters like heating_gain and check_gain_time in your configuration to fine-tune this behavior12. If you encounter the “Heater extruder not heating at expected rate” error, consider modifying these settings to improve the heating performance3. Keep in mind that this feature helps maintain consistent print quality and prevent issues like warping.
@Rolohaun17 күн бұрын
It allows a higher differential between the heater and actual temp, if the thermistor comes loose and the temp is within 20 degrees klipper is allowed to keep powering the heater. It's not good and it's also not needed removing it is recommended so it uses the klipper default which is 5 I believe
@Texastoo217 күн бұрын
@@Rolohaun Thanks for the information. I deleted the line from mine today after I watched the video.
@Hyperslayer1219 күн бұрын
whenever i try to connect to mobaxterm i am stopped with an error saying unable to open connection to delta.local, host does not exist. could you please help me with this as i have not been able to figure this out for a couple days now.
@Rolohaun17 күн бұрын
possible you forgot to enable SSH when installing the OS or your wifi info is wrong or check your router if you can find the host name maybe it is miss typed. It's easy to start over and recheck everything.
@jonathanserrano65519 күн бұрын
Question to anyone able to help me. I have a few spare(not so amazing) parts, and want to make a cheap version of this for my little brother to see how much he would actually use a 3d printer. Any tips on doing a budget version? Smaller motors? I have spare ender boards, most likely would do marlin and avoid klipper too. Any and all help would be very appreciated. Thabk you in advance!
@Rolohaun19 күн бұрын
very hard to make this much cheap, I do not recommend Marlin for delta 3d printers
@jonathanserrano65517 күн бұрын
Ahh, 😂that is good to know. Thank you!
@TimArland20 күн бұрын
Great review! Is that the kit with the CNC parts or just the printed parts? Thanks!
@Rolohaun20 күн бұрын
Just printed parts
@paulharris478022 күн бұрын
Awesome guide man! I had no problem following along and everything came out perfectly. Thanks!
@Rolohaun22 күн бұрын
Glad it helped!
@Westside3dprinting-cg8om24 күн бұрын
hey mate i want to build this printer have you got a updated bom
@Rolohaun15 күн бұрын
no the printer is still in beta and the BOM may change
@TheGalacticWest26 күн бұрын
[El speedy]
@Rolohaun25 күн бұрын
not bad for the time, slow compared to other printers now
@3DFORLIFE427 күн бұрын
Where did you buy it?
@Rolohaun27 күн бұрын
aliexpress
@r3drumg33k328 күн бұрын
This supports the Pi5 correct?
@Rolohaun27 күн бұрын
hdmi and everything is in the same spot so I don't see why not
@robco681029 күн бұрын
Carbon rods would be key for lightweight gantry - i ordered some here in germany, but they are all uneven/out of tolerances/useless
@Rolohaun29 күн бұрын
Ya I tried some on other printers
@mcstandoАй бұрын
Pimoroni Hyperpixel is about the same price and it connects directly to RPi, so I'm not sure if it is such a good deal
@RolohaunАй бұрын
That's more expensive for me around 80 bucks
@chlpdfАй бұрын
does it need the extra power cable or would the touch usb connection supply power without it?
@RolohaunАй бұрын
no unfortunately it needs usb power, which for now I am just getting from the PI with another cable
@stevedegeorge726Ай бұрын
$50? Ouch! Looks nice though.
@RolohaunАй бұрын
BTT HDMI 5 is 55 for me
@user-ju3gy1ez4pАй бұрын
Hi friend. Is this self leveling?
@RolohaunАй бұрын
it has triple independent Z yes
@Geoff_WАй бұрын
So, I've got another of these from them. WHAT IS UP with all these screens that have abnormal bezels?!?!? It's really flipping annoying!
@RolohaunАй бұрын
the bezel could for sure be smaller
@Geoff_WАй бұрын
@@Rolohaun The fact they are thick doesn't bother me so much as the fact that the thickness of the bezel is different on each side
@eaman11Ай бұрын
So not even a picture or a strength test?
@RolohaunАй бұрын
sorry about that, I want to do more video on it. I will say I use this filament all the time and I have build my Rook 3D printer and others using it
@vladislavserenko6724Ай бұрын
Yeah this one is perfect for me, basically a rook for high temperature printing guys! :)
@webslinger2011Ай бұрын
Part 3 corexy with a cr touch probe? ^_^
@Rolohaun29 күн бұрын
I may do a part 3 in the future
@0hN0es203Ай бұрын
I would buy a RC150 kit. Looks like a nice little printer.
@The22v10Ай бұрын
Good video, I agree with you on all of it, I have purchased one for my Ender 5 Pro, and I want to CoreXY mod but am on the fence, I want dual Z mod also, Currently, I have an SKR-mini v3 in it and it works perfectly as stock board replacement. WOW, you also had mini I see. keep the video's coming. I subbed and shared your link with some other 3D printing knuckleheads I know.
@addads6978Ай бұрын
Thank you!
@samuelaraujo1933Ай бұрын
Looks a hypercube!
@RolohaunАй бұрын
Very different but I have built a hypercube before and learned a lot from it. Great printers
@Lucas_sGarageАй бұрын
It works with klipper right.
@RolohaunАй бұрын
Yes
@johngammelАй бұрын
I think this would be much better if you made a video for the more normal case where the user has a typical printer with as SD card.
@RolohaunАй бұрын
The process is really the same your downloading a firmware file and putting it on a SD card instead of the mainboard directly
@johngammelАй бұрын
I know that the process is basically the same between a typical printer and the board with no SD card but I'd recommend 2 videos to make it more straight forward for Klipper newbies. I've flashed firmware for +40 years now and spent my life in IT so the "computer" part of it is just details - I've even program the Pi to monitor sensors for my A/C unit.
@NessieKnowsАй бұрын
Was hoping to pick this up but seems your 130 off code doesnt work. Hope to get this in the future though.
@RolohaunАй бұрын
it expired, I will remove the code
@danaharrington6561Ай бұрын
I can’t recall ever seeing any of your designs on the reprap site. I think your designs would probably qualify as reprap machines. Would you consider making some wiki pages for them?
@RolohaunАй бұрын
some are on github, but I use printables now for my current designs. this printer is on github though
@MrGarkinАй бұрын
How do ungeared belted Z work for you so far?
@RolohaunАй бұрын
I don't mind them but you do need to dock the bed at the bottom after every print or the bed will drop. LDO also has motors to prevent this
@MrGarkinАй бұрын
Not sure how do i feel about exposing PSU without safety covers.
@RolohaunАй бұрын
you can just print a PSU cover from printables
@MrGarkinАй бұрын
What is reasoning about putting here 3 to 1 Z reduction in comparison to the Bastion without one?
@RolohaunАй бұрын
Just a updated design, pros and cons to both
@ThePhilboxАй бұрын
Yeah, the fact people build $150 MACHINES TO PUT IN HEAT SETS IS SO CRAZY....Like did you even try first. The if the heart is on a non-square or parallel surface the machine is no use anyway.
@muhammadmirza9455Ай бұрын
Really useful tip, takes all the guesswork out of the process. Glad I came across this video before my next use case.
@im.empimpАй бұрын
Wouldn't designs that include embedded nuts be structurally more sound?
@RolohaunАй бұрын
imbedded nuts have a huge disadvantage because they rely on print tolerance to be perfect or they will spin in place. headsets are much better and just a strong gripping the melted filament on all sides. The heatsets in this video are not structural and only holding on a panel.
@karoma7898Ай бұрын
input shaping is probably the biggest 3d printer advance in 2024, so if you have that you're perfect.
@JohnStruemphАй бұрын
Great tips! Thanks!
@BrianVoelkerАй бұрын
This is way better!
@andreasm8391Ай бұрын
Nice to see others doing it the same way.
@tijniekenАй бұрын
This technique is way better than using a heatsetjig
Пікірлер
Oh, and I almost forgot, which model of Raspberry Pi did you go with, and how well did it perform, would you recommend the same model, or perhaps go with a newer, beefier version? Thanks. :-)
@@lynwooddillman944 pi 3 is totally fine
Hi, Hey, I was so happy to find this video series, as this is exactly what I was wanting to do with the makerbot replicator 5th gen I picked up recently. I have most of the parts purchased, and I've started 3D printing the files on github, but I, like another viewer, didn't hear you mention what exactly you did for the power supply?? Did you tap into the original, or just add one? Did it end up being 12 or 24 volt? I know its an old video, and you no longer have the printer, but any help you can provide is much appreciated. I've subscribed to your channel, and I look forward to sifting through all your old videos.. :-)
original 24v I believe
This is such a BAMF move to have it printing right beside you as you intro it. Bro IDK if I have the chops to build this but by god ima try. SO FREAKING COOL.
Are all the T-nuts and slide-in Nuts for the M5 Hardware, or are some m3 ones also required?
@@CalebRaes-ek6ul all m5 t nuts
Amazing proyect, I plan on build it to upgrade the crappy easythreed K9 of my kid. is there any way to upgrade the bed? or a 2024 upgrade version of this?
there are some 50mm latger ones being built in my discord
Great topic, thanks
What a coincidence! I am currently also developing a corexy 3d printer that uses v-wheels for z similar to your design but without the springs. I am just using using eccentric nuts for tensioning.
i see why its called rook
you have the orca profile to share? thanks
I just used the default orca profile
stl file????
github.com/rolohaun/Replicator5-Klipper
im just seeing this now. we bought a replicator thinking it was great... until it wasnt. im going to the mods you did, hopfully fixing the printer. thank you, your a saint.
I'm thinking about designing a uncoated FR4 PCB heated buildplate. Anyone interested?
I have used G10 it works well, same as FR4 basically.
@@Rolohaun Nice :) I just see the benefit in having the heater being fused to the printbed by making one the sides being exposed and having them be manufactured by a PCB service. Flatness should be within reason and the price very low. BTW I'm gonna min max your build and report back 2 you cheerio :)
Dang. Why didn't I see these videos about two days ago. I am in the middle of printing my parts for the rook 2020 scalable.
Rook 2020 scalable is a awesome printer you will like it
Very strange that this command creates a runaway. The documentation states: The verify_heater extruder command in Klipper is used to check whether the extruder (hotend) is heating up at the expected rate during the printing process. It monitors the temperature increase and ensures it meets the desired rate. If the extruder heats too slowly, you’ll receive an error message. You can adjust parameters like heating_gain and check_gain_time in your configuration to fine-tune this behavior12. If you encounter the “Heater extruder not heating at expected rate” error, consider modifying these settings to improve the heating performance3. Keep in mind that this feature helps maintain consistent print quality and prevent issues like warping.
It allows a higher differential between the heater and actual temp, if the thermistor comes loose and the temp is within 20 degrees klipper is allowed to keep powering the heater. It's not good and it's also not needed removing it is recommended so it uses the klipper default which is 5 I believe
@@Rolohaun Thanks for the information. I deleted the line from mine today after I watched the video.
whenever i try to connect to mobaxterm i am stopped with an error saying unable to open connection to delta.local, host does not exist. could you please help me with this as i have not been able to figure this out for a couple days now.
possible you forgot to enable SSH when installing the OS or your wifi info is wrong or check your router if you can find the host name maybe it is miss typed. It's easy to start over and recheck everything.
Question to anyone able to help me. I have a few spare(not so amazing) parts, and want to make a cheap version of this for my little brother to see how much he would actually use a 3d printer. Any tips on doing a budget version? Smaller motors? I have spare ender boards, most likely would do marlin and avoid klipper too. Any and all help would be very appreciated. Thabk you in advance!
very hard to make this much cheap, I do not recommend Marlin for delta 3d printers
Ahh, 😂that is good to know. Thank you!
Great review! Is that the kit with the CNC parts or just the printed parts? Thanks!
Just printed parts
Awesome guide man! I had no problem following along and everything came out perfectly. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
hey mate i want to build this printer have you got a updated bom
no the printer is still in beta and the BOM may change
[El speedy]
not bad for the time, slow compared to other printers now
Where did you buy it?
aliexpress
This supports the Pi5 correct?
hdmi and everything is in the same spot so I don't see why not
Carbon rods would be key for lightweight gantry - i ordered some here in germany, but they are all uneven/out of tolerances/useless
Ya I tried some on other printers
Pimoroni Hyperpixel is about the same price and it connects directly to RPi, so I'm not sure if it is such a good deal
That's more expensive for me around 80 bucks
does it need the extra power cable or would the touch usb connection supply power without it?
no unfortunately it needs usb power, which for now I am just getting from the PI with another cable
$50? Ouch! Looks nice though.
BTT HDMI 5 is 55 for me
Hi friend. Is this self leveling?
it has triple independent Z yes
So, I've got another of these from them. WHAT IS UP with all these screens that have abnormal bezels?!?!? It's really flipping annoying!
the bezel could for sure be smaller
@@Rolohaun The fact they are thick doesn't bother me so much as the fact that the thickness of the bezel is different on each side
So not even a picture or a strength test?
sorry about that, I want to do more video on it. I will say I use this filament all the time and I have build my Rook 3D printer and others using it
Yeah this one is perfect for me, basically a rook for high temperature printing guys! :)
Part 3 corexy with a cr touch probe? ^_^
I may do a part 3 in the future
I would buy a RC150 kit. Looks like a nice little printer.
Good video, I agree with you on all of it, I have purchased one for my Ender 5 Pro, and I want to CoreXY mod but am on the fence, I want dual Z mod also, Currently, I have an SKR-mini v3 in it and it works perfectly as stock board replacement. WOW, you also had mini I see. keep the video's coming. I subbed and shared your link with some other 3D printing knuckleheads I know.
Thank you!
Looks a hypercube!
Very different but I have built a hypercube before and learned a lot from it. Great printers
It works with klipper right.
Yes
I think this would be much better if you made a video for the more normal case where the user has a typical printer with as SD card.
The process is really the same your downloading a firmware file and putting it on a SD card instead of the mainboard directly
I know that the process is basically the same between a typical printer and the board with no SD card but I'd recommend 2 videos to make it more straight forward for Klipper newbies. I've flashed firmware for +40 years now and spent my life in IT so the "computer" part of it is just details - I've even program the Pi to monitor sensors for my A/C unit.
Was hoping to pick this up but seems your 130 off code doesnt work. Hope to get this in the future though.
it expired, I will remove the code
I can’t recall ever seeing any of your designs on the reprap site. I think your designs would probably qualify as reprap machines. Would you consider making some wiki pages for them?
some are on github, but I use printables now for my current designs. this printer is on github though
How do ungeared belted Z work for you so far?
I don't mind them but you do need to dock the bed at the bottom after every print or the bed will drop. LDO also has motors to prevent this
Not sure how do i feel about exposing PSU without safety covers.
you can just print a PSU cover from printables
What is reasoning about putting here 3 to 1 Z reduction in comparison to the Bastion without one?
Just a updated design, pros and cons to both
Yeah, the fact people build $150 MACHINES TO PUT IN HEAT SETS IS SO CRAZY....Like did you even try first. The if the heart is on a non-square or parallel surface the machine is no use anyway.
Really useful tip, takes all the guesswork out of the process. Glad I came across this video before my next use case.
Wouldn't designs that include embedded nuts be structurally more sound?
imbedded nuts have a huge disadvantage because they rely on print tolerance to be perfect or they will spin in place. headsets are much better and just a strong gripping the melted filament on all sides. The heatsets in this video are not structural and only holding on a panel.
input shaping is probably the biggest 3d printer advance in 2024, so if you have that you're perfect.
Great tips! Thanks!
This is way better!
Nice to see others doing it the same way.
This technique is way better than using a heatsetjig