Just a guy with a set of tools, a camera, and some projects to get done!
Since filming and editing takes so much time, I'd appreciate your support by subscribing to the channel.
I do have some monetized links in the descriptions of the videos, so: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Пікірлер
Very well done. Thank you. This helped me immensely.
You’re welcome!
Thank you !!
You’re welcome!
Them ignition coils did not want to come off x.x
If you do put some dielectric grease on the boots, hopefully they will come off a bit easier next time.
very informative and straight to the point. i just watched a different tire changing vid before this one and the dude spent almost half the video just talking about how he didnt like the factory tires lol.
Thanks! Yeah, that’s annoying when people try to interject a lot of personal opinion in a how-to video. My back tire is about to need to be replaced, so I’ll probably do a video on it as well. That and replacing the swing arm chain slide.
Great video, btw, where did you buy the grill guard from?
Thanks! That bull bar was already installed when I bought the truck, so I don’t know where it came from.
great instructions! do you need to measure the torque of the driven sprocket bolts and from the hex screw side or the nut side?
Do not apply torque to the hex screw side, only the nut side or else you could strip out the screw. Use a hex socket to hold the screw in place while tightening the nut. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a way to measure torque, since the spokes are in the way preventing a torque wrench.
Great video. My local shop quoted me several hundred dollars to do a coolant drain and fill. Trying to take advantage of me, a middle-aged woman…. Thanks to your video I did it myself for $25 and an hour of my time. Thanks so much! 😊
You’re welcome! Glad to be able to help. There’s certainly a place for local shops, but I prefer to DIY as much as I can.
Are 1995 gtx seadoo gtx bombardier any good anyone?
I personally would stay away from all the 2-stroke PWCs for a few reasons (fuel consumption, maintenance, power), but as long as it’s in good shape, I’m sure it would be fun to drive around out on the water.
Is there any hack to just forcing the air go out dash/face vents only? Mine is only blowing out floor and defrost vents. I don't think i have ability to remove everything you did to replace it. But if there's a way to rig it to only go out dash vents I'd appreciate any feedback or tips. Thank you.
There is, but it would require a bit more work than just replacing the broken actuator... You can take off the bad actuator, manually twist the door to the correct position, take apart the actuator, remove the broken gear, turn the output shaft on the actuator to match up with the input shaft for the door, reinstall the broken gear and put the actuator back together, reinstall the actuator and DON’T plug it in. But again, much easier to take out the bad actuator and install a new one all at once.
@@FixandMaintain I greatly appreciate your feedback. Yes, given what you've suggested I'll get a new and get to work. Thank you.
@@FixandMaintain what is the name of the part the actuator screws into? I'm pretty sure mine is broken or at least off track and thinking I should get a new one while I'm up in there
I'm guessing you're referring to "Nissan 27175-7S020 Bracket-Front Heater Unit"? That's the black plastic piece that the actuator attaches to that also keeps the white plastic "Nissan 27163-7S010 Lever-Heater Unit" from falling out of place.
@@FixandMaintain Thank you
yep, I do, & that was it, got 3/4 done till I lost 2nd screw & it stRtd raining, mmofcOwrs👋😑
Uh oh. Well, maybe you could find the missing screw with a magnet?
@@FixandMaintain actULE I luukd absolutely everywhere, & as gene wilder said in that deaf & blind movie with richard pryer, it was gone, I saw it fall, & the direction & speed it fell, but it was “😩GOOONE.. NOWHERE, ERASED FROM THE SERFICE OF EXISTENCE.. IT SIMPLY VANISHED!😳”.. so I grabd a couple from my other impala & flopd the thing in there, it didn’t work, 1 probly cause it didn’t work, & 2- because I lost my prestigious calibration instructions(imposdible to get, yet I lost it).. & 3- causa that blue 2Ndary clip gizmo on plug, I could not click it closd.. this was 1 of 3 a these I have lying around, & I think I’ll open them B4 scuffing up my hands installing thE other 2.. getting back to the beginning of this book, when the screw has simply vanished, I knew, actually I knew I was gonna lose it B4 I did, & after a Yl I knew I probly wouldn’t find it.. buuuuuuudt I also knew when I would find it, the second I stopd looking for it… so I headed off to work, & when I went over speed bump, ‘flump’ it blump flopd off & over it’s own invisible speed bump(basically ‘reformulated in2 existence’) & landed on floor, & I’m like yyyeeap, not srprIEzd
Thank you wonderful video. You do a great job explaining. Dean Stearns
You’re welcome! Glad to be able to help!
Ez pz and straight to the point
Just how it should be!
gr8 so the drivers 1 is ALSO a temperature 1👋
Yes, the driver’s side actuator is for temp, assuming you have the dual climate version like in the video.
Will this work on a 2013 Nissan Titan pro4 X?
I can’t say for sure if the replacement switch will work on that particular model, since Nissan wants to sell the entire lock cylinder assembly instead of the switch by itself. But, it should be the same process as in the video to clean the old switch.
Apparently...I also did this wrong as I am in a sunny af area 🙃
Uh oh. I think it’s mainly to keep the resin from starting to cure while it seeps into the tiny cracks of the bullseye chip. Then once it’s fully saturated, UV rays from the sun will cure it all at once.
My resin escaped from the top
From the top of the platform?
How do i do this on a non duel climate control Impala? It seems fucking nobody makes videos on how to do it on one
I’d be happy to make a video on one if I had access to one. I would guess that either the driver’s side or passenger side actuator is “missing” from the non-dual climate model, but not sure which one would control both, and unfortunately there’s not much info available online about it.
@@FixandMaintain I believe the driver side is, the problem is the post because I can't get it to move
Where’s the link to purchase switch?
It’s in the description (it may be hidden under “…more”) But here it is again: amzn.to/4bXXpjx (ad)
Perfect video - no nonsense, detailed, thorough and informative.
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
Why does the ac blow slow on 2010 Nissan Armada I change motor relay also the filters any other recommendations?
Does it sound like the blower motor is actually ramping up to full speed? Have you checked the blower motor itself to make sure it doesn’t need to be cleaned or replaced?
Great information
Thanks!
Thank you good sir
You’re welcome!
would this work on a driver side window? i have just a tiny chip.
Tempered glass of a side window is different from the laminated glass of a windshield. It may work to fill in the chip, but would probably still be noticeable and might not stay in the chip long-term.
Can I manually change it for the time being while waiting for the new actuator? Mines stuck on defrost and it’s hot asf this time of year
Technically yes; but might take a bit to get it right, so do at your own risk. You can take off the bad actuator, manually twist the door to the correct position, open up the actuator, take out the broken gear, turn the output shaft on the actuator to match up with the input shaft for the door, reinstall the broken gear, reinstall the actuator and DON’T plug it in. Then you’ll be a pro by the time the new actuator arrives 😎
@@FixandMaintain do you know which way I’d have to turn it if it’s stuck on defrost ?
I don’t, but I would assume since defrost is at one extreme, it should only turn one direction.
@@FixandMaintain 10-4 thanks for the info
Was your a/c blowing cold when you drive but when you stop it will blow warm im having this issue and I’m getting that click click now right by my feet
No, mine was strictly the mode blend door to adjust head/foot/defrost.
I got the Passenger temp replaced now I have to do the others... Wish me luck
Whew, that’s rough that that all have to be replaced! Hopefully everything will go smoothly!
i think this is the best, simple short video about it.. i just did yesterday,, if i can give advice.. the sprocket form factory,, bolt was so tight.. i actually damage one,, i ordered new so,, .. the hexagonal are rly fragile, you make it round so easly .. so when you force by hand , it just dont work well,, what i did for the 5 other one and it was working directly,, is to hammer the 17 wrench to unlock the thightness .. bolt had 8 years old.. i know some ppl heat them first.. you can try this too,, but dont force the hexagonal one if it can avoid other noob like me to mess up , your welcome ahh yeah and i dont talk about the slider. its 2 bit on it,, and its a pain in the ass, that why the man didnt change it on the video,, even if he should.. , so check that you buy the good one .. should have 2 rubber bit inner .. and these 2 rubber bit are a pain in the ass to put in the swing arm.. so buy a rubber hammer before ^^ to dont damage the paint on your swing arm,, bcs trust me,, you will need it,, voila, that was my beginner experience,, 🙂
Thanks! Yes, as you saw in the video, I damaged two of my rear sprocket bolts as well trying to twist the hex bolt instead of the nut on the back side. I can see impacting the wrench with a hammer would help as well. I didn't change the swingarm slider since, at the time, it still had some wear left on the indicator. However, it's nearing time to replace now, so I'll try to do a video on how to swap it out once I tackle that project.
My driver side blows warm air but when I turn the knob a few times it goes back to cold. The passenger side temp knob works fine Is it the actuator? Or do I need to replace the whole control module? Just wanted to know before start buying things I don't need. Basically the driver side temp knob seems to be going out.
Are you hearing a clicking/ticking sound when it’s not switching to cold?
Thank you for posting this video. So after reservoir is full, we only leave the radiator open if we need to flush out any air right? Then add more if I see that the level dropped at the reservoir after flushing the air?
You're welcome! The radiator should be completely full, no air at all; and the reservoir should be to the full line when cold. After doing the initial refill procedure with the engine running and the radiator cap off, the only time to take off the radiator cap is to verify it's full (when cold) after doing some driving; to see if any other air bubbles had been trapped and haven't escaped into the reservoir. Also keep in mind not to have both the radiator cap and reservoir caps off at the same time, as gravity can allow coolant to overfill the reservoir.
Great video! I highly recommend people do this fix before they replace the starter.
Thanks! Yes, this seems to be a fairly common issue that could easily be misdiagnosed as a starter or starter relay. Better to troubleshoot the easy access items first!
Actually a lifesaver of a video, Thank you!
You're welcome!
how many liters of oil should be poured into its engine?
It’s 1.5L when refilling after draining and changing the filter.
Many thanks for posting. Other videos have stated removing the intake manifold is needed to change the rear plugs. I am glad that is not the case. 2011 Buick Enclave 184k miles UPDATE I tried this yesterday and for 2011 Buick used a different design on the intake manifold than the one in the video. The front coils are impossible to remove with the manifold in place 😢. I did remove and replace the 3 rear coils.
You’re welcome! Yes, everyone else just went ahead and removed the manifold, but I was pleasantly surprised myself when I found out it was possible to work around it.
Great video. Nice editing skills to save our time
Thanks! Yes, I try to cut everything down to make it as concise as possible but still have all the necessary details!
It’s still there
But it did make it much less conspicuous and also reduces the chance that it will develop into a long crack later on.
I have a 2007 and it just clicks won’t start so I tried this and no change any other suggestions
Have you checked the battery?
@@FixandMaintain yes it’s been replaced 2 times in the past 4 months i believe it’s the starter ?
Replaced the battery 2 times in the past 4 months?!? Sounds like you have a problem with an electrical drain that’s making the batteries fail prematurely. I was suggesting the battery first since it’s the easiest to diagnose. Cleaning both battery terminals would also be an easy thing to rule out. There’s a chance it could be the starter or starter relay, but I’ve heard the starter is quite difficult to replace on the Titan. Just trying to suggest the easiest route first.
Thank you friend.Hello from IRAN MAZANDARAN🌹
You’re welcome!
I have so many wires blocking my access need to take parts of dash apart,
Does yours have the Rockford Fosgate audio system? I wonder if that has anything to do with the extra wires.
WTF why do you only give a split second to see the before and after and then it's hidden with all the writing on top on the after part 😢 makes me think you're full of shit😮
Thanks, it was super easy after watching this!
You’re welcome! Glad I could help.
My air only comes out on right side does the blendor aggirattor caise this
Are you saying it’s blowing cold on one side and hot on the other side?
Thanks because my husband wouldn’t work on mine after months did it myself
You’re welcome, glad to be able to help!
So they for sure fit my 2013 armada?
No, 2005-2007 Armada. I think there was a slight design change 2008+ in the Armada. They look the same, but not showing as compatible.
Absolutely the best video I've seen for this job. Short, simple, to the point.
Thanks!
Thank you good job
You’re welcome!
(On passenger temp actuator) My shaft is pretty far off, feels like a lot of pressure to twist it to line up, how hard can i actually twist? Is it better to have temp set to cold or hot when removing the old one?
Mine were able to twist fairly easily, so it may be that you have a problem with the blend door itself. As for what position they should be in before you remove, it really doesn’t matter since the bad actuator probably won’t be able to position the door correctly. You could plug in the new actuator prior to installing it, cut the key on, and reposition it with the car electronics. However, if you aren’t able to move the door manually, the chances of breaking a gear inside the new actuator is probably fairly high.
Mine ticks slower than that but only when power is first to the car. Literally could open the door and it’ll start. Then it shuts off, start the car up. Then it starts again then shuts off.
That sounds like it may be the fresh air/recirculate door actuator
I installed the same ones, driver side has hyperflash turn signal, passenger doesnt. Driver side led strip works sometimes, passenger side never does. All bulbs are new.
Did you use LED or Incandescent bulbs for the turn signals?
@FixandMaintain halogen, the headlight came with its own module box thing for programming. It can run halogens. The led strip is on its own system. The rest of the halogen is connected per usual with the regular harness. It's not oedro headlights though, it's the same thing but different brand.
@FixandMaintain update: everything stopped working all together, all my lights, they do nothing anymore. Fried my whole system. And to verify I checked fuses, relays. You name it. Everything, I even threw off the new and put the old headlight on, and still, nothing.
@FixandMaintain already contacted Amazon, and they're willing to pay for mechanics bill.
Wow. That’s very weird. So, the reason I was asking about LED vs Incandescent for the turn signals is that the turn signal flasher relay is designed operate with the resistance of the stock incandescent bulb and will cause a rapid flash if it is used with an LED bulb. I didn’t know they made a halogen turn signal bulb, but that could have had something to do with the issue. Also, if the polarity of an LED bulb is reversed (which has a 50/50 chance of happening with a turn signal bulb) then it will not work at all.
I appreciate this video but what wasn't clear was how to set the knobs before installation?
I didn’t have the knobs in any specific position. The actuator is able to communicate its position to the truck, so I don’t think it matters.
I got these mirrors and I cannot see shit out of them. lol But hey we are legal while towing.
That was the goal, right? 😝 I agree you can’t see much, but between this and the three other PWCs I’ve owned in the past, these have some of the best visibility IMO.